Fan will be encorporated. But, if the plastic casing gets warm, (which it does) then the heat sink will work nicely. It will sure beat the acrylic I was going to use - as the acrylic effectively trapped the heat against the LEDs.

Pictures? do you want pictures of a pile of LEDs and resistors? Or of the broken shards of acrylic? :mrgreen:

I'l have some pictures coming in due time no worries.

Andy

oh are you going to mount the LEDs directly in the heat sink material. I though you just wanted to atach it to the plastic hehe.

how did you break the plastic?

Steve

Yes, the plan was to use it as a place to mount - and source of heat removal :) (maybe not the brightest idea exposed wires and aluminum and all - but I figure I can use some liquid electrical tape where needed and make things safer)

Drilling the acrylic, it seemed like if I breathed wrong i'd end up with a nice crack running from hole to hole to hole.... Of course, I would probably have had better success with a different bit, and the use of some lubricant. But hindsight and all...

Andy

you have to turn your drill bit into an acrylic bit, can't but them that I have seen but they are easy to make. you have to grind the two cutting edges flat so it doesen't try to pull through the plastic. I have to do a big bit today so I will take befor and after pics.

Steve

Steve, think a Brad point bit would cut acrylic better than a normal bit? Back in the day I was drilling pieces of foam (weatherstripping type stuff) and I found a Brad would evenly slice a nice hole rather than chew in and pull the foam apart.

My problem working with acrylic has always been having it melt on me. Too high RPMs, maybe?

hole saws melt plastic, a brad point doesent work good, tried it, but a forsner does work. the best is a modified normal drill bit.

Steve