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- - what went wrong (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=114183)

Quote:

Originally Posted by whistlerskipro (Post 950793)

I did a 50% water change yesterday and was told by the same person I should cover it up and let it have no light for 3 days.

Hopefully the picture was downloaded however though it looks like the water is green it is NOT

If the water is not actually green, what is the purpose of the no light period?

Quote:

Originally Posted by whistlerskipro (Post 950813)

Sorry about the confusion: I added the dead coral to increase the overall filtration. I didn't think the original 40lbs was enough. More is good?

More is not always better. Your friend may have been right - if you have too much rock then it hinders flow and creates dead spots. Detritus settles in dead spots and this can lead to issues.

Quote:

I believe by removing some of the original LR (two weeks ago) caused the tank to crash .

What is your definition of "crash"? Did all the fish die?

Quote:

Question: Can base rock (the dead coral) replace the old established LR in two months? I don't think so.

No, you are right, dry rock can't replace live rock in two months, it needs much longer. You had plenty of live rock left though, so that shouldn't actually be an issue.

Quote:

So I am thinking I am now dealing with my tank trying to re-establish itself.
Maybe I am completely wrong and it may be something completely different. I am very new at saltwater tanks.

I think that maybe when you were messing in the tank you disturbed areas that aren't normally disturbed (dead spots from having so much rock) and caused some nasty stuff to get in the water.

If your tank is cycling again you will have an ammonia reading. Have you tested ammonia? No ammonia means no cycle.

OK To recap.
The 40lbs of coral I added was dead coral used as more base rock to increase total LR to 1.5lbs LR per gallon for 55gallon tank.
Ammonia 0
Nitrite. 0
Nitrate. 0
Phosphates 2.5

So tank never crashed in the since of loss of fish invertebrates or coral

Actions taken 50% water change
Covering aquarium for 48 hours
Anything else?

Thanks everyone

PS you can see the 40lbs dead coral in the picture, thought it would look good.
Reason for braking it up to get more water flowing through the tank.

Kinda seems like the rock had something leeching out of it?

Phosphates are 2.5? Phosphates should be around .03

If your phosphates are 2.5 that's why everything is green......could be leaching from the new rock, canister doesn't help phosphates. To reduce will be water changes, you could use go, but in a pinch, look into fosdown.....

I think you have it! The large piece of coral I was using for base rock apparently can be the source of high phosphates. After removing the original Live rock, if I take out the remainder of that dead coral I will be left with only 20/25lbs of good LR which for a 55gallon aquarium will not be enough. Unfortunately living in Whistler I have no access to LR. Once the 72hrs of blocking any light should I just remove the reminder of the (dead coral) Base Rock? Will the 5 fish I have in the tank be OK? I will replace the LR I removed a month ago and use it as new base rock. Does this make sense?

Oh and a substrate of 3"LS.

seems like you should remove the coral.

just because you take the time to acid bath and then wash them, they can still have all kinds of stuff that can leach into a body of water.

Not sure I'm following this correctly, but it would seem like all your problems started when you added the coral.

The fact that it was from a garage sale is somewhat concerning.

There could be copper or other hazardous trace metals, chemicals or compounds in there and you would have no way of knowing until you have an issue (which seems to be the case).

Lots of people like to add coral to their freshwater tanks, and if this was the case, may have dosed with all kinds of stuff that would be very detrimental to a sw ecosystem.

they could also have been stored somewhere and exposed to something hazardous (like a garage or under the kitchen sink).

I'm if following this right, get rid of all that dead coral you added, put your live rock back in, add some bacteria (like prodibio) and do lots of water changes until things start to improve.

With phosphates at 2.4 I would recommend frequent water changes and some Foz Down. The Foz Down will be able to cost effectively and easily remove the Phosphates and keep new phosphate under control while the rocks finish leaching.

I would recommend reducing phosphate over a period of 2 weeks. 1 $30 bottle of Foz Down should remove all the Phosphate plus more. No need to remove rock and disturb your tank again.

FYI I produce the Foz Down and lots of people here have used it successfully.

Cheers,
Tim

Thanks Gobytron

Actually this happened over a period of two to three months, everything was great until we removed too much LR two weeks ago. I'm guessing the phosphates levels slowly got to where they are now. The coral came from someone I knew here in Whistler that had it on display so I was pretty sure the dead coral was safe, except as a phosphate factory.

So Tim are you saying I can leave the dead coral (base rock) in the tank if I use that product?