Got a 150 GPD 5 stage BRS system with booster pump set up. Ran it and was getting TDS after the DI so I ordered new filters. Ordered July 24th and still waiting :twised: but looks like its finally been shipped.

Picked up some Marco dry rock and will be starting the cycle in a brute while I work on getting the system moved into place. Going to be throwing in some Bio S as recommended by Wai's. Am I still going to need an ammonia source for this or will the Bio S take care of that?

Hoping to get started on the stand skin this weekend. Right now Im leaning towards some cabinet grade plywood that ill counter sink some magnets into so I can remove panels for maintenance. Anyone have some pictures or tips? Ive only ever built wood stands so this will be a new challenge.

:pop2:

You will need ammonia. "Ghost" feeding works - just don't overdo it.

Got things set up over the weekend. Ended up going with a dcs 4000 for the return. 2 x 200 watt eheims for heat. Still on the lookout for a skimmer lights and powerhead.

Total volume was 90 gallons with the substrate and rock.

I only ended up with about 50 lbs of Marco rock and will add some more to the sump in the future if I have issues.

Need to do some tests today for parameters. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d94860c96d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dd837d04d0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ff46286df4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f8ac37bf38.jpg

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NaCl H20!

Parameters after a couple days
Temp 79
Salinity 1.022 (at time of these tests, have brought up to 1.025)
Ph 7.6
Ammonia .2
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0.05

Im not running a skimmer at the moment and my salinity was low would this cause my pH to be this low?

What do I need to keep testing and how often? Am I safe to keep doing only Ammonia and Nitrite until I see spikes and drops?

Also got a water change station set up. Kent Float seems to allow for a constant dribble especially with the booster pump, thinking about adding a solinoid with floats as a backup.

Now just need to figure out the best way to lug 20 gallons up 2 floors on a regular basis. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eaea19a3cb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c5dfc2927e.jpg

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Could also use some advice on Tapatalk photos cause it's obviously not working how im doing it.

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Still not much activity on the chemistry front. I think I was expecting a magic bacteria fairy to smell the bio s. No such luck.

In the meantime I've found the red sea tests to be fairly simple and like them over the salifert ones I've used in the past (ten years ago).

Getting started on the stand "skin" and will get some photos out once I've cleaned up my workspace a bit.

Lastly I fixed an old 48 inch 6 bulb tek light I had kicking around. Threw it on so I could get some pictures. It felt real when I saw those beautiful blues light up for the first time. I don't know what I'm going to do at this point as I was leaning towards led to avoid bulb purchases. Also not too keen in a 48 inch fixture on a 40 inch tank. Wonder if a 36 inch setup would provide enough coverage.

Anyways. Photos.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ec69330185.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...803de4add7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c74642c817.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f55ad90c8d.jpg

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Yes, it's quite possible and likely that your lower pH is due to the lower salinity. Test it again to be sure :-) It's not that far off though. An acceptable range is somewhere from 7.8 to 8.4 and remember that pH of your tank will typically swing from morning till night as well.

edit: The lack of skimmer can also affect pH but this variable also depends on the CO2 content of the surrounding air around the skimmer. That is, if the C02 around the simmer is high, the skimmer could potentially lower the pH further. But generally, if you have lower CO2 around your skimmer, the injection of this air can raise your pH.

Appreciate the comments. I was leaning towards a bubble Magus skimmer but the more I read the less I want one... Not too keen on something that needs constant adjustment.

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