how to connect rodi to fridge???

[smokinreefer]

hey everyone,

i'm wanting to connect my rodi to my fridge's ice maker and water dispenser.

not sure what additional parts I will need.

I understand I need to Tee the line off between the RO and the Di.
- one branch feeding the pressure tank, leading to the fridge.
- one branch running to the Di for aquarium usage.

I figure I will need an auto shut off valve of some sort, so the system isn't always running when no RO is in demand???

or do I just need a shut off valve on the Di output? i'm thinking this isn't correct, would it not continually have waste water produced???

please help, i'm stumped. and the research I've done has left me a bit confused on this matter.

thanks!

[lastlight]

I feed my fridge plain tapwater. It's not a new fridge by any means but is this really a problem?

[chromakey]

Hi:

I have an aquasafe system and I ordered another faucet that I use for drinking water (goes through a final stage carbon "polishing" filter). My aquarium water bypasses this filter stage. It is in my laundry room so not that handy always.

What type of system do you have?

Michael

[AquaPin]

Aquasafe systems has a fridge kit on their site, comes with the "T" and 30' of tubing. You should not need an ASO if you split the feed at the end (near the holding tank/faucet end). I used this kit to feed my fish tank and my holding tank, works great.

[smokinreefer]

I feed my fridge plain tapwater. It's not a new fridge by any means but is this really a problem?

Nope, no problem. Just preference. We have a bottled water dispenser already.
Just figured I'd hook up the rodi to the new fridge. I don't like how the water is tasting out of the fridge right now.



Hi:

What type of system do you have?

Michael

I've got a rodi that I've been using for years, it used to be hooked up in a detached laundry room, only used for making aquarium water.

I figure since I have it, I might as well let the family drink purified water as well.

[sphelps]

Typically just a tee and extra 1/4" tubing should be all you need. All ice-makers I've seen use compressor type fitting to connect to 1/4".

You should use a pressure storage tank though if you don't already and if you don't want to drink DI then the tank has to be installed between the ro and di as well.

[smokinreefer]

Ok, so I have a pressure tank, but haven't used it before.

So I just tee the line inbetween the Ro and Di, bypassing the Di going to the pressure tank, then from there to the to the fridge.

But what about the Di output? Do I just put a shut off valve on there? And close it when I don't need water for the aquarium?

Sorry, I'm having a hard time visualizing this. Because there is always water running through the Ro, would I not have waste water continually being produced?

[11purewater]

The pressure tank will shut the Ro off if the tank is full and there is no water demand on the system.Some newer fridges will not run on an R o system because the pressure requirement is too high,check your manual.:smile:

[smokinreefer]

The pressure tank will shut the Ro off if the tank is full and there is no water demand on the system.Some newer fridges will not run on an R o system because the pressure requirement is too high,check your manual.:smile:

Thanks for the tip about the fridge.
My manual says 35-120 psi, so I should be good.
I was close to 100 on my Ro off the tap.

I know the pressure out of the tank will be lower, so I'll throw a gauge on there to doublecheck.

But I'm still lost. I have the output off the Ro tee'd. One leading to the tank and then the fridge. I get that that will shut off due to solenoid on fridge.

But what about the other leg of the tee? The leg leading to the Di? Won't my source water be flowing through there still??? Continually producing rodi and waste water until it gets shut off somehow???

[Chase31]

You need an auto shutoff on ur or system bulk reef supply has them( if you don't already have on on it, out of ur or you will have a T that goes one to your DI and one to your fridge, on the DI your going to want to have a ball valve or some sort of shutoff. On the fridge line you will have another T one side will go to the fridge and the other to your pressure tank. You may want a check valve between your "DI" T and your pressure tank so that you don't use water from your pressure tank to feed your DI. If you don't you will not have any water in the pressure tank while making DI water. Hope this clears it up.

[Proteus]

.According to many doctors and even the World Health Organization, drinking RO water or even worse, distilled or DI water can have long term negative health effects on the human body. Water with <75 TDS can seriously affect your intestinal track, and the lack or low level of minerals can cause other health problems, etc. Check this link and you be the judge, http://www.who.int/water_sanitation_...ineralized.pdf

[rickcasa]

+1. Dont drink DI water.

I have an AquaSafe too and my tee is located after the 4th stage, 1 goes to the pressure tank and the other to the DI stage which then fills up my storage barrel equipped with only a float valve. The fridge should be fed from the pressure tank because you'll need the pressure and enough stored water to keep up with the demand from the ice maker and to get a decent flow to dispense drinking water.

[naesco]

+1 don't drink DI, please.

[gregzz4]

If you do decide to go ahead with the RO to your fridge, I hope you find the info you need

I'll say though that, when we first hooked up our RO, we drank the water for a month or so. It was nice to not smell chlorine, but after awhile we lost interest in the water as it has no flavor

We've since gone back to tapwater for drinking and are quite happy with it

My 5 cents is, especially because you're in the GVRD/Metro Vancouver Area with the best water around, save your money for something more important :wink:

[hillegom]

Seems to me you already have all the parts you need and won't have to buy anything extra.

I've been drinking ro water since I put in the system for the aquarium. Still this side of the grass!

This link will help you to "see" more clearly Shao

http://www.watergeneral.com/support/pdf/RD102.pdf

Refer to page 9 rt hand diagram, model RD106
Not affiliated, just a diagram I found on the net.

The 5th stage would be your DI, the 6th stage is just another carbon filter to get rid of the "rubber" taste of the storage tank.
Where it says to RO faucet, thats the faucet you installed on your counter, close to the sink, so you could have drinking water, before it gets to your fridge. If you have it this is where you would tee off to go to your fridge.
If you don't have that faucet, then go straight to your fridge outlet from there.

Hope that helps

[RuGlu6]

I cool my tank slightly differently but it works very good.
All it is just a coil of plastic tubing with moving cold tap water inside placed in to the sump. It is only a drip not flow. even if you have to pay for water it is still vary cheap. very low tech and reliable. Drip rate (cooling) is controlled by the manual valve.

Larger tank will need larger coil (mine is 65 Gal + sump and only 25 feet plastic tubing coil does the job)
If you can get glass coil or titanium you will be able to cool very large tank.

PMed you pics.

[reefbrian]

My mother drank ro or distilled for over 30 years and now has severe osteoporosis. If you want a better filter than the fridge comes with then just use a sediment filter, the 5 micron carbon and 0.6 micron carbon blocks from bulk reef supply. That will remove anything harmful to humans but leave all the minerals.
Sent from my LT28i using Tapatalk 2

[smokinreefer]

so I tried testing the set up with the pressure tank.
looks like I need a 1/4" check valve.
anyone know where to get one locally?

http://aquariumwaterfilters.com/images/stories/virtuemart/product/Quick_Connect_Ch_4be02c9d8f32a.jpg

[smokinreefer]

found the check valve at Andrew sheritt.
thanks for the heads up Ryanerickson.