to bio-pellet or not to bio-pellet

[saltyair]

Have been looking into a bio-pellet reactor and doing some research.

Wondering if it would be helpful or an unnecessary expense.

I don't have bad algae
I do run carbon and gfo
I have a well established refugium
I do run an over sized skimmer

For the last 6 months my parms have not changed much other than PH.
I dosed to raise the ph with aquavitro eight.four. It has been successful.
my ph is now steady @ 8.3 (testing before lights out)
no3 - .5
kh - 9
ca - 420
po4 - 0
mag - 1340

would adding a bio-pellet system add anything to my system to help coral growth and health?

[Reef Pilot]

I would say no, based on your low N03 and P04. Seems like you don't have much of a bio load. Maybe throw in some MB7, and that would be it.

And this is coming from a strong advocate of bio-pellets.

[saltyair]

I would say no, based on your low N03 and P04. Seems like you don't have much of a bio load. Maybe throw in some MB7, and that would be it.

And this is coming from a strong advocate of bio-pellets.


Thanks reef pilot - i have a medium stocked 180 gal tank.

So would you only suggest bio-pellets if high po4 and no3? Would it replace my gfo and carbon reactor?

If my tank was heavily stocked (getting that way) would you recommend it? Are they long term solutions?

[kien]

I would agree with The Pilot. This would be a prime example of, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!". Your tank appears to be swimming along (pun intended!) nicely. The use of Biopellets is simply another method (among many) for reducing nutrients such as Nitrate and Phosphate. It appears as though your current method (refugium+water changes+skimmering+low bio load) is working out just fine for you :-)

[Reef Pilot]

Thanks reef pilot - i have a medium stocked 180 gal tank.

So would you only suggest bio-pellets if high po4 and no3? Would it replace my gfo and carbon reactor?

If my tank was heavily stocked (getting that way) would you recommend it? Are they long term solutions?

Well, I would agree with The Kien. Leave it alone. If your nitrates start rising, despite your best tank husbandry efforts, then I would use bio pellets. Some MB7 is always good, though, to ensure a good supply of beneficial bacteria in your tank, that helps it all work, and keep your water clear.

[reefermadness]

I would usually agree with "if it aint broke dont fix it" but in this case I would first ask if you feel you want more fish and/or want to start feeding more. Your nutrient level is fine now but if you want to feed more you could benefit from being proactive and added the pellets. If you add pellets before no3 and po4 become a problem you also can avoid some of the start up issues some people have.

[Seriak]

Nope I would not touch it. Don't introduce a new technology just to have a new technology. You parameters look good so leave it alone.

[Simons]

Just a quick note on PO4. I don't think many people know that there is actually two types of phosphates, Soluble reactive Phosphates (SRP) and Organic Phosphates.

When you are measuring the PO4 levels in your tank you are really only measuring the SRP phosphates, which are NOT the phosphates that 98% of algae like to eat. Those are the Phosphates that are dissolved in the water column, the 'bad' phosphates are the Organic Phosphates which are bound to the organics in your tank (ie rocks, sand etc). Those you cannot measure with any simple home test kit.

So just because you have a 0 or very low reading on your phosphate test kit, does not necessarily mean you have 0 phosphates.

That being said, if you are not having an issue with algae now, as long as you don't over feed your tank, do regular water changes you should be fine. No reason to add another piece of equipment that will likely have little value overall to your ecosystem.

[cblair]

I would agree with not doing it. I tried pellets with a recirculating reactor and ended up with a cyano outbreak. Switched to gfo and carbon and everything is back to normal

[Myka]

This would be a prime example of, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!".

I agree 100%. If there comes a time in the future that you're struggling with algae and everything to do doesn't fix it, then consider bio pellets.

I would agree with not doing it. I tried pellets with a recirculating reactor and ended up with a cyano outbreak. Switched to gfo and carbon and everything is back to normal

This will happen in almost every situation where there is suddenly minimal nutrients in the water and still significant nutrients in the rock. As the rock leeches nutrients cyano takes advantage.

[saltyair]

Wow great feed back - I think if it ain't broke don't fix it - is the way I like to go. I am a little worried that as the reef grows and the fish grow to full size that bioload will increase.

So having a well established refugium and gfo/carbon will it keep up with the bio-load? Would adding more dry rock to the sump and or dt help?

the 180 is now 2yrs old (was started from my 2yrs 75 gal)

thanks every one for the feed back - glad I asked before purchasing.

[Myka]

Your refugium probably won't help with nutrient export unless you modify it to just grow Chaeto. Adding more rock would help by creating more areas for denitrifying bacteria to help reduce nitrate by offgassing, but the difference would be minimal.

[saltyair]

myka thanks for the info.

my refugium has a huge ball of chaeto - it takes up 3/4 of the 20 gal refugium


Your refugium probably won't help with nutrient export unless you modify it to just grow Chaeto. Adding more rock would help by creating more areas for denitrifying bacteria to help reduce nitrate by offgassing, but the difference would be minimal.