Scott's 270g aka Project Mayhem

[Scythanith]

Hello All,

We bought a new home 5 years ago and the plan was always to develop the basement into a comfortable living space that accommodates our love for animals. My wife Wendy has ~10-15 snakes at any given time depending on if any one is breeding, a tarantula, Aussie Frilled Dragon, Plated Lizard. I just took down my 85 gal and moved the inhabitants to a 40 gal on rollers to make the development a little easier. I have had a 10 gal nano, 20 gal mantis tank, 85 gal mixed reef. We also have a red eared slider and an awesome pound dog named Jasper.

6 snake tanks are incorporated into one of the walls and mounted on 200lb sliders to make pulling them out of the shelf unit for maintenance easier. They will have pocket doors over the fronts of the tanks that are finished in an Espresso coloured wood veneer. Just think Petland or something like that.

On to the good stuff! Before I get too far into I want to that Steve (sphelps), Colby with Bayside Corals and Denny at Concept Aquariums, I could not have done this without them. I asked Wendy what we should called the build thread and she said Project Mayhem, so I present to you Project Mayhem!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-FZ7R9L9/0/M/i-FZ7R9L9-L.jpg

It is a 270 gal (72"w x 36"d x 24"t) with an external overflow on the left hand side. It's all 1/2" glass with the front and right side viewing panels being made out of starfire glass. It has a 1/2" plywood base glued to the bottom pane. The euro bracing is drilled for the returns.

The sumps are in a stacked configuration. The water from the overflow is fed into the sumps with 2 x 2" returns. The first chamber is a frag tank, the second is the return pumps. There is an overflow to the lower sump which will feed the skimmer, reactors, filter bags, and refugium. It's also has a water change chamber and an emergency overflow. I know this goes against the conventional thinking that the dirtiest water should hit the skimmer first, but I am going to utilize the energy from the overflow feeding into the sump for frags. The skimmed/reactor/refugium water will be fed back into the pump chamber and returned to the display tank.

I traditionally have used overdriven T5's for my reef tanks but and switching over to LED's. I have purchased 3 Mitras fixtures so hopefully that should cover the coral's lighting needs. The returns and reactor pump with likely be DC Wavelines. In-tank circulation will be handled by four Vortech MP40w's. One underneath the overflow and three along the back wall. I will put one on the right viewing pane if need be but I want to keep the pane clean. I will likely wrap the pack pane in black vinyl.

I am not sure about my skimmer yet. I have a BK Mini 180 and I like the quality, but I also use a Euro-Reef RC-1000 and it's been great aside from cooking a pump once. I am thinking a BK supermarin 200, but hate to overpay if there is something equivalent in quality/performance for less.

OK, so that should sum up what I am thinking of. Now for the good stuff!

Design phase:

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-hTncZGw/0/M/i-hTncZGw-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-2CjtKcs/0/M/i-2CjtKcs-L.jpg

Building the stand, preparing the fish room and getting the basement ready:

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[Skimmerking]

I don't think you have enough wood for
the stand. looking good man

[Scythanith]

The fishroom is wired with 2 20 amp breakers. The first powers the 4 receptacle on the left hand side of the room. The second runs 6 receptacles along the back wall, with the final two on GFCI. I know it's overkill, but I'd rather that than kick a breaker after a power outage. I know the LED's and DC pumps should really soften startup but a little overkill isn't a bad thing. The sink will be a stainless scullery sink that can easily fit 5 gal pails. There is some cabinet and cupboard space, as well as wall space for the RO/DI. The salt and fresh reservoirs will be set in another room most likely, but I will fit them by the sumps if possible.

I plan on using either a profilux or a neptune controller. I haven't really decided either way yet.

[Scythanith]

Delivery day came and went! There was a great old storm coming through but the tank was unloaded and not a chip or crack in it.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-7S7CHbq/0/L/i-7S7CHbq-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-dknKmR5/0/L/i-dknKmR5-L.jpg

I hired one company that brought it into the house but then looked at the stairwell and said no way. So I built a 2x2 frame of the exact tank dimensions (minus the overflow) and made a dry run through the stairwell and it fit, just like my measurements suggested it would, sans overflow.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-X6m6Dzp/0/L/i-X6m6Dzp-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-5TTcFZ7/0/L/i-5TTcFZ7-L.jpg

After trying to cut the overflow off for over five hours (razor blade, 20g wire, etc.) and with the movers coming in a couple hours I made the hard decision and broke the smallest pane on the overflow and peeled the rest off. It came off easy once I had the once pane off. Made me cry inside a little but oh well, better the tank is downstairs and I have to repair one little pane of glass.

So the movers showed up and looked at the route and weren't too stoked. But they didn't complain, just got their equipment together and got to work, The laid the tank, starfire up, on the piano dolly, then lashed a wheeled dolly onto the overflow side. After some swearing and back breaking work, they had it down safe and sound! I paid them, am tipped them well to boot!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-VdrfBfv/0/L/i-VdrfBfv-L.jpg

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Here it is in place!

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[Scythanith]

Here is my nest dilemma. How much gap is too much? Less than an 1/8" on one corner.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-9rgZjdW/0/L/i-9rgZjdW-L.jpg

And maybe a good 3/16" on the other.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-VXc2PXw/0/L/i-VXc2PXw-L.jpg

Steve, what should I do? The other two corners are perfectly flush.

[Scythanith]

I don't think you have enough wood for
the stand. looking good man

Yep, she's over built but I'd rather that than under built LOL!

[Scythanith]

Sitting perfect right now.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-n35cJVr/0/L/i-n35cJVr-L.jpg

[gregzz4]

If it were me, I'd remove the ply between the glass and the stryo
Then I'd shim between the remaining ply and 2x4s until perfect
And I'd use composite shims, not wood, as they won't compress over time, even if they get wet

[reefwars]

If it were me, I'd remove the ply between the glass and the stryo
Then I'd shim between the remaining ply and 2x4s until perfect
And I'd use composite shims, not wood, as they won't compress over time, even if they get wet


removing the plywood is going to be impossible as we build the tank on it and seal it tight:)

[Scythanith]

I was just going to say that, the plywood is sealed onto the bottom pane for good. Reefwars, do you have any advice? I am assuming you're part of Concepts crew? I was thinking of making some extra wide shims and sliding them between the pink styro and the tanks plywood? Will the styro compress too much, rendering the shims useless?

Thanks for the help.

removing the plywood is going to be impossible as we build the tank on it and seal it tight:)

[denny_CC]

I was just going to say that, the plywood is sealed onto the bottom pane for good. Reefwars, do you have any advice? I am assuming you're part of Concepts crew? I was thinking of making some extra wide shims and sliding them between the pink styro and the tanks plywood? Will the styro compress too much, rendering the shims useless?

Thanks for the help.

hey scott , yeah its denny here:)


basically remove any of the white shims between the tank and styrofoam and start to fill with water as it gets heavy it will settle provided your stand is plum and square and level.


also your silicone is on its way my buddy:)

ps....looking good man looking good this is gonna be a sweet build:)


cheers

denny
concept aquatics

[gregzz4]

removing the plywood is going to be impossible as we build the tank on it and seal it tight:)
OK - I kinda thought I saw silicone there :wink:

Yes, shimming between the tank ply and styro won't do anything
If Denny is comfortable with you filling it as is, go for it

I can see where shimming only the outside edges may pose a problem as there's no 'trim' that the glass is sitting on

[Scythanith]

Hey Denny,

The stand is square & plumb according to my 4 ft level and all the measurements. So I don't know where the little droop is coming from but if you're not concerned I will start filling it sometime this week and see how it settles.

Could you also send me a small piece of 1/2" glass the same size as the side of the external overflow? I need to replace the one I broke out.

Thanks again!

hey scott , yeah its denny here:)


basically remove any of the white shims between the tank and styrofoam and start to fill with water as it gets heavy it will settle provided your stand is plum and square and level.


also your silicone is on its way my buddy:)

ps....looking good man looking good this is gonna be a sweet build:)


cheers

denny
concept aquatics

[denny_CC]

Hey Denny,

The stand is square & plumb according to my 4 ft level and all the measurements. So I don't know where the little droop is coming from but if you're not concerned I will start filling it sometime this week and see how it settles.

Could you also send me a small piece of 1/2" glass the same size as the side of the external overflow? I need to replace the one I broke out.

Thanks again!

absolute send me the size of your box and i will have a piece made up for you:)

and yes i had dave look at the pic and he agreed its ok to fill :)

cheers buddy:)

[denny_CC]

OK - I kinda thought I saw silicone there :wink:

Yes, shimming between the tank ply and styro won't do anything
If Denny is comfortable with you filling it as is, go for it

I can see where shimming only the outside edges may pose a problem as there's no 'trim' that the glass is sitting on

with large tanks we build right on to the plywood, because of the strength of the silicone we use once cured removing it would be alot of work and would more than likely end up with chipping/shelling the glass.

the plywood base is used to ship safely and so the tank can be slid around untill its filled with no damage to the bottom.

for smaller tanks we build on a foam base.

[Skimmerking]

I would leave it and get some thicker foam thou.........

[Myka]

Nice looking build! I've always loved this 2-panes viewable style.

[Scythanith]

I would leave it and get some thicker foam thou.........

So what will the thicker foam (1") accomplish? Will it provide more compression than the 1/2"? Plus, I have calculated the space between the header and the tank pretty tight to fit in the return plumbing. If I take away a half inch things may get dicey.

I could switch if it's better for the tank in the long run.

Scott

[Skimmerking]

when you put water in there and Glass having no flex to a point. the Styrofoam will give that more support. so on heavier tanks thicker foam is used

[Myka]

I have no issues with the 1/2" styrofoam. Ask Dave or Denny which thickness they suggest.

[lockrookie]

I too think your good with the 1/2" foam the idea is for the foam to give and keep it level and it will do the trick. Especially with the plywood under the tank it should have less flex and stress points for the glass in general. I'd say good to go. You could always do a fresh water test before you fill with ro if you want to be sure.

[Scythanith]

I have the old 85 gallon for sale on Kijiji if there's anyone local and looking. I don't expect it to last long as I'm only asking $50.

Kijiji Ad (http://saskatoon.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAd?AdId=470420614&MessageId=MSG.VIEW_AD.AD_ACTIVATEDMXmessageUrlMZht tp%3A%2F%2Fsaskatoon.kijiji.ca%2Fc-AdDetails%3FAdId%3D470420614%26Guid%3D13dc77cd-1e60-a20b-2654-e27cffff1a06&mpname=Conf-Ad-animals&mpname=ConfAd-animals&mpname=Conf-Ad-Total&mpuid=1700197%3B115%3B470420614%3B5649916%3B%3B&secev=AQAAAT3AUYIAAM0AAAABACExM2RjNzdkMjNhZC5hMjBi MjZhLjY0NTMuZmZmZTI1OGQAAAABAAAAABwKDIYBAAAAAgAAAA AC%2BvCAj%2BfMb3fzYe5a296Nk3FPtWFGvms*&wmid=470420614)

[Kryptic4L]

sweet build following along

[sphelps]

Looking good Scott, you fill the tank yet? I wouldn't worry about the gap, I'm in agreement with the majority, the weight should compress the foam at any high spots and close the gap, that's really the whole idea behind using the foam in the first place. Do a tap water fill to test it, oh wait are you still a tap water reefer or have you switched to the good stuff yet?

[Delphinus]

Good looking setup so far! I have a very similar layout myself so I'm probably biased. I just wish I had an external overflow on the side like what you have.

Good luck with the rest of the mayhem!

[Skimmerking]

Is that 1/2" foam well that didn't look like it. my regards it looks a lot thinner. I have always used 1" but hey that is me.

[Scythanith]

No, hell no. Tank is still dry. I am not going to fill it until we are done tapping and mudding the basement. Probably another month.

No, I haven't been on tap water since I moved to the new house. I have a 5 stage RO/DI unit from Colby. I need to change out the cartridges and resin for the new tank.

Looking good Scott, you fill the tank yet? I wouldn't worry about the gap, I'm in agreement with the majority, the weight should compress the foam at any high spots and close the gap, that's really the whole idea behind using the foam in the first place. Do a tap water fill to test it, oh wait are you still a tap water reefer or have you switched to the good stuff yet?

[Scythanith]

Is that 1/2" foam well that didn't look like it. my regards it looks a lot thinner. I have always used 1" but hey that is me.

Yep, 1/2" foam.

[Scythanith]

Well no build thread is worth it's weight without some coral pictures! These are all sitting in my 40g interm tank.

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[Scythanith]

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[Scythanith]

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[steve fedyk]

What is your dimensions of your fish room and what kind of door are you planning to us?

[Scythanith]

The fish room is 11' by 6' and will have a 30" door (Door (http://www.homedepot.ca/product/primed-6-panel-textured-safe-n-sound-solid-core-prehung-door-with-rabbeted-/992505)).

There is going to be ~6' of cabinets and a scullery sink on the back wall.

[Scythanith]

Does anyone have an opinion on how much lighting the Ice Fire Echinata should be getting? Right now mine is getting as much as it could in my tank (4 overdriven T5's wi individual IC reflectors, ~12-15" away).

I bought it from March (Fragbox (http://www.fragbox.ca)). Maybe he will chime in. I also grabbed the candy apple reds, AoG's, and Space monsters from him. Great looking Zoa's!

[Scythanith]

My friend Steve and my Dad have helped me over the last couple days to get some more drywall put up. The fish room is really near complete in that regard. The drywall in the fish room is Certainteed M2Tech Moisture & Mold resistant so that should help our HVAC fight the higher than usual humidity.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Bf4JtZt/0/L/i-Bf4JtZt-L.jpg

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[gregzz4]

Coming along nicely
Man, that tank looks huge :surprise:

[Scythanith]

Coming along nicely
Man, that tank looks huge :surprise:

It's just a ~270g. There are plenty of larger tanks out there. I originally wanted to go with a 360g (LINK (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1141802)) but it was feasible to get into the basement. I will save that one for the next home.

[Scythanith]

Mudding and tapping is well on its way today! Should be able to paint by mid-week. I am still waiting on the replacement piece of glass for my overflow. If I don't get it from the builder soon, I will go out and get a new one cut at a local glass shop. I am excited to build the sump stand and start working on the plumbing!

And my third Mitras showed up so I will get to work hanging those once the mud dust has settled!

[Scythanith]

Getting closer!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-GLCfSQ3/0/L/i-GLCfSQ3-L.jpg

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[mseepman]

I like the progress this is making. I know how hard it is to get a tank build done but it looks like you are getting there.

Awesome pics of your corals by the way.

[kien]

that's coming along nicely! "just 270g" ? LOL.

[sphelps]

Looking good! Curious what your finishing plans are around the tank as I thought it was all just going to be drywalled in with some casing around the tank.

[Scythanith]

Looking good! Curious what your finishing plans are around the tank as I thought it was all just going to be drywalled in with some casing around the tank.

I had multiple people tell me not to have the drywall against the tank with the non supported ~5 inches between tank top and framing. So I am going to get the cabinetry contractor to build our wood wrap down over the gap. The bottom section is tile up to the sand line, and the top is an espresso wood with a brushed metal trim. The two doors on the front will have a built in overlap so no light leaks out.

Big question Steve, cement fibre board or good ol' drywall to tile to? I originally thought cement board but have had a couple people tell me it's not necessary and is only really used in shower installs. Tiled back splashes use drywall.

Opinions?

[sphelps]

Drywall is fine for a tile backer for this purpose. If you have extra lying around, better to use that than sending it to the landfill. Two reasons people might stay clear from drywall for a tile backer is moisture (not an issue here) and weight (a large wall of heavy tile could in theory pull the paper off the wall board, again not an issue here). Other options to consider is the cement board which is a PITA so say the least or a tile backer board which is much lighter and easier to work with. Also consider using OBS board as it's cheap and will offer a great surface for adhesive. If it was me I wouldn't bother with using messy mortar either, PL premium or a tile adhesive would be my choice.

[Scythanith]

Thanks Steve. Unfortunately I have to deal with some cement board around the fireplace. But if I can save myself some hassle around the tank that's great!

[sphelps]

Thanks Steve. Unfortunately I have to deal with some cement board around the fireplace. But if I can save myself some hassle around the tank that's great!

Are you sure? I have drywall around both our fireplaces. It's non combustible, perfectly acceptable by code.

[Scythanith]

Are you sure? I have drywall around both our fireplaces. It's non combustible, perfectly acceptable by code.

Nope, I am not sure. The fireplace manufacturer's instructions state where the non-combustible zone is and then gave an example of an acceptable material which was cement fibre board. I will give the city a call and ask them if fire rated gypsum is ok.

[sphelps]

This (http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/DSC_6458.jpg)is how my fireplace was originally finished by the builders, pretty sure it's just standard drywall as well, not fire rated.

[Scythanith]

Just spoke with the City building inspector and as far as he's concerned the paper on the drywall is a combustible. Cement fibre board it is!

[sphelps]

Always interesting to hear what different inspectors have to say. I've always been told drywall is non-combustible and even though I would agree the paper is combustible that really doesn't have much to do with it. In reality it has to meet a certain standard probably something like ASTM E136. In any case, no big deal, best to keep the inspectors happy IME.

[Scythanith]

Man developing the basement is taking forever! I finally had time to put in the floor drain, build the sump stand, and silicone the overflow back on. I won't likely get a chance to plumb it before I go back to work but we shall see what happens on monday!

Rigging to hold over flow in place while silicone dried.
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-jr2Tts4/0/L/i-jr2Tts4-L.jpg

General arrangement. The floor drain will have the water change valve and emergency overflow plumbed directly to it.
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http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-RhGfsGb/0/L/i-RhGfsGb-L.jpg
I will try to describe the flow of water through the sumps. You can see the primary frag chamber top left, return pump chamber top middle, and overflow top right. The skimmer chamber is bottom right, filter basket chamber bottom middle, return pump chamber bottom left, refugium bottom far left.

The refugium will be fed off a manifold powered by the lower sumps return pump. The manifold will also feed a couple reactors for bio pellets and GFO.

Slowly but surely it's coming together.

[Scythanith]

I just picked up these beauties! Avast Marine Works MR5 & MR10 media reactors, a Mutiny II ozone reactor, and the Kraken!

MR5
http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/images/store/mr5_18_md.png

MR10
http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/images/store/mr10_18_md.png

Mutiny II
http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/images/store/mutiny_series_md.png

The Kraken
http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/images/store/kraken_md.png

The MR5 is for GFO, the Mutiny II will drain it's effluent into the MR10 which will be packed with GAC. The Kraken is a biopellet reactor I plan on running. I still need to chose which biopellets to run, as well as which ozone generator/air dryer/pump to use. Any suggestions?

I'm pretty stoked though!

[sphelps]

Looking good Scott, coming together nicely.

[Scythanith]

Thanks Steve, I am really excited to put your concept/design into action! I'm just trying to make sure the parts I buy are of a high enough quality that I shouldn't have to replace them in a couple years. With proper maintenance they should last as long as the system is up I hope.

Are you going to upgrade your Mitras' to the new LED configuration? I haven't given it much thought, as it's another $900.

[Razor]

Yes, looking great. I wish I had an open room behind mine, that's the way to go for sure.

[sphelps]

Are you going to upgrade your Mitras' to the new LED configuration? I haven't given it much thought, as it's another $900.

Nope, seems rather pointless for that kind of money. I might consider it the new version if I was buying new fixtures but upgrading all clusters for a couple more white LEDs in place of the red and yellow won't make a difference IMO. I don't run the whites full as it is so adding more won't really add any more light in my case. Even though the new LEDs names seem to suggest they are more of a blue white I'm still not convinced. Plus the yellow is nice for making orange sunrises and the extra red spectrum seems to have value as well. So between the two I'm still leaning towards the original.

[Scythanith]

I am hoping someone puts out a comparison of both systems running. I tend to agree with your colour preferences though. I run KZ Fiji purple and 10K's more than super blues on my current T5 systems.

[lastlight]

Nope, seems rather pointless for that kind of money. I might consider it the new version if I was buying new fixtures but upgrading all clusters for a couple more white LEDs in place of the red and yellow won't make a difference IMO. I don't run the whites full as it is so adding more won't really add any more light in my case. Even though the new LEDs names seem to suggest they are more of a blue white I'm still not convinced. Plus the yellow is nice for making orange sunrises and the extra red spectrum seems to have value as well. So between the two I'm still leaning towards the original.

I agree with you there. I've only got my cool whites at 50% and don't want anymore white. Not unless they give me more rb, b and hv lol.

[Scythanith]

Suspended ceiling is in. I am happy with how it turned out!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-r7rpsjv/0/L/DSC_3929-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-hhS7Vpf/0/L/DSC_3930-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Mr9P9ZJ/0/L/DSC_3931-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-QfFWPXF/0/L/DSC_3932-L.jpg

[Scythanith]

Not really tank update per say but I got the wallpaper feature wall done today and the tile guy is coming tuesday/wednesday.

I am also picking up ~8' of 2" spaflex up tomorrow and rigging the tank to the sumps. Maybe plumb the durso's.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-jMMMMtH/0/L/DSC_3933-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-c9dzmwj/0/L/DSC_3940-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Xj3fF5V/0/L/DSC_3942-L.jpg

[gregzz4]

Liking the wall and ceiling textures

Have you thought about some kind of alarm for the emerg overflow as it flows down the drain ? Or did I mis-understand where it goes ?
Hate to hear about your tank crashing 'cause it filled with top-off water :surprise:

[sphelps]

Liking the wall and ceiling textures

Have you thought about some kind of alarm for the emerg overflow as it flows down the drain ? Or did I mis-understand where it goes ?
Hate to hear about your tank crashing 'cause it filled with top-off water :surprise:

The emergency overflow he speaks off is in the lower sump, it's not part of a herbie or other overflow box system for circulation. It's only the to prevent the sump from overflowing in situations like shut down when the tank is overfilled for whatever reason.

Scott, basement looks awesome. I agree the slate ceiling tiles look great, one of the betters ones for sure. I like the floor tiles too.

[Scythanith]

Thanks guys! Greg, I do plan on having a small switch in the overflow to alert me when water is going down it. That being in the event that an auto top off stuck on or something along those lines. I just 95% of the lighting in the basement. I also wired up the Mitras on an aluminum frame and am working on the suspension system now.

Cheers,
Scott

[gregzz4]

Greg, I do plan on having a small switch in the overflow to alert me when water is going down it. That being in the event that an auto top off stuck on or something along those lines
That's exactly why I asked
Glad to hear it's in your plans

[Trevor W]

WOW!
Great progress on an awesome build! Definatly following this one.

[Scythanith]

So here's a question for all you pro's out there. Are these safe to use as the pulleys above my tank that will suspend the lights? They are rated for 110lbs each (according to the package), so weight isn't an issue. My biggest concern is the metal they are made from. It doesn't say anything specific on the packaging. I am worried about flaking metal into the tank after repetitive use. Am I being to concerned? If you think they are an unwise choice, could you suggest a safe pulley alternative?

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-NgFCRP8/0/L/image-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-4tNKtHj/0/L/image%20copy-L.jpg

Cheers,
Scott

[Zoaelite]

Subscribed, excited to see where this goes.

As for the hanging pulleys the interior component looks like Muntz metal which is 60% copper. I doubt any will chafe off but if your keeping all that poppin LPS like you used to I wouldn't take the risk.

[Delphinus]

+1

I'd go for sailing blocks for over top of the tank - something like these: http://www.harken.com/productcategory.aspx?taxid=363

[Scythanith]

+1

I'd go for sailing blocks for over top of the tank - something like these: http://www.harken.com/productcategory.aspx?taxid=363

Awesome, I know of a great boat shop that probably carries just this item!

I bought stainless aircraft cable with crush fittings to suspend the lights, any objections to using it?

Thanks for the help all!

[Scythanith]

Tile is up, grouting tomorrow.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-pPpNxpK/0/L/DSC_3944-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-LcXDS5s/0/L/DSC_3945-L.jpg

Bad view of the lighting rig

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-3wtTK2Z/0/L/DSC_3946-L.jpg

Fireplace tile matching the fish tank

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-mcc2rW4/0/L/DSC_3948-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-qPNM6vC/0/L/DSC_3951-L.jpg

[thmh]

Wow this build is awesome, Iam definitely following along to see your progression!

~Tony

[Skimmerking]

Friggin nice man i have a great idea for my new 250 gal inwall

[mseepman]

Beautiful so far! Loving the look of the tile.
I ended up using something very similar to those pulley's knowing that they were Zinc plated. I plan to upgrade to stainless or aluminum in the future.

[Scythanith]

Here is the new gear.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-zDDVRFM/0/L/image%20copy%202-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-D8cSdQf/0/L/image%20copy%203-L.jpg

[Delphinus]

*goosebumps* !! :)

[daplatapus]

That's all lookin' pretty sweet!

[Scythanith]

Grouting is done, lights are rudimentarily up. I plan on cleaning up the wiring and probably raising the lights up to the main support beam to give me a little more head room when I raise the lights to the roof for maintenance. All I have to do is tighten up the aircraft cable between the lights and the beam.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-zhfpH9q/0/L/i-zhfpH9q-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-TKrfxnF/0/L/i-TKrfxnF-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-M7b5Nvv/0/L/i-M7b5Nvv-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-XzRdxpK/0/L/i-XzRdxpK-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-mKRgF3G/0/L/i-mKRgF3G-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-LN9HzQh/0/L/i-LN9HzQh-L.jpg

[Scythanith]

Just bought the beauty on the right, a BK Double Cone 250 with RD speedy 3. Should be here next week!

http://reefbuilders.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/1/files/bubble-king-double-cone/bubble-king-double-cone-1.jpg

I am really having a dilemma right now on choosing a return pump and manifold pump. I was waiting for the Waveline DC12000 but I am getting a little scared of the rumours of spotty customer service and reports of the new DC6000 having flow issues. I really like the Abyzz pumps but they are a lot of cash. I need reliability, over anything else, it needs to be reliable. I am going for long stretches and I don't expect my wife to change pumps out for me.

Can anyone rationalize one pump over another? Waveline, RD3's, Abyzz A400...

Thanks!

[sphelps]

This probably sounds familiar but I think the Abyzz is overpriced, in terms of reliability the price tag just simply isn't justified. The most reliable and steady pump I've ever owned was a RD6.5 so I'd consider an RD pump DC or AC over the Abyzz given they cost less than half. Plus it'll match your new skimmer :mrgreen:

I agree the wavelines and speedwaves reliability is questionable, while the pumps I have seem to run pretty solid they have developed more noise suggesting wear and I've had two of the 3 controllers burn out, which I'm suspecting relates to the crappy power supply they come with. The power supplies should really be regulated and given the juice they require a fan cooled unit would be nice. I originally ran all my pumps of a single regulated power supply as I originally suspected the power supplies to be problematic but later switched back to the originals so each pump would run off it's own supply with the idea of better redundancy, however now I'm thinking of grabbing one or two more more regulated power supplies to prevent future issues.

With that all said the advantage off these cheaper alternatives is their significantly lower price tag allowing the ability to run two or more pumps in parallel allowing more flow opportunities and the added reliability that comes with multiple pumps, if one fails your system essentially remains unaffected. They are also the most popular so easy to get replacements and claim warranty. While a pumps like Abyzz have better warranties if it's your only pump it'll be much more inconvenient if it does have issues.

In regards to the newer versions of wavelines, you could purchase the old versions to run for a while, they are cheap enough and will actually hold decent value to make a later upgrades quite reasonable once issues are sorted.

[Scythanith]

Thanks Steve, I appreciate your view on the matter! I may go with the RD3's and still run the top sump pumps in tandem for redundancy. If I go lower priced DC pumps I will just go with whatever Colby has the best supply of. But you're right, at least I can get water flowing and replace the pumps with a high quality unit down the road.

I just have to see what the pocket book and accountant (aka. Wendy) will allow.

How's the little man doing?!

[sphelps]

How's the little man doing?!

He's good, funny but the noise made by the three wavelines work really well for putting him to sleep. Another thing to consider if you and Wendy ever go down that road :wink:

[Scythanith]

So I have been doing a little figuring on costs for DC pumps. Here is what I came up with.

RE RD3 speedy 65W 1848 gph $753 2.45g per $ 2yr warranty
Speedwave DC10000 2640 gph $200 13.2g per $ can't find literature (assume 1 yr)
Waveline DC12000 3170 gph $280 11.3g per $ can't find literature (assume 1 yr)
Abyzz A400 4910 gph $2340 2.1g per $ 10yr warranty

Where does this leave me... I don't know. The higher the inferred quality, the higher the price. I just have to decide what my pocket book will handle.

[Scythanith]

Some progress has been made! You can see the scullery sink we had made up sitting in place. It will sit "on top" of the countertop once it's in. I think we will buy some back splash tiles from HD or Rona and do a back splash as well. Above the back splash will be some peg board or something like that to hang tools.

You can see the opening on the left for the mini freezer.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-b6Cn8Dz/0/L/i-b6Cn8Dz-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-C7xXVqw/0/L/i-C7xXVqw-L.jpg

[Scythanith]

Delivery day!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-pfs6prb/0/L/i-pfs6prb-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-H29XsbM/0/L/i-H29XsbM-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-3mVzgmH/0/L/i-3mVzgmH-L.jpg

I have an issue with the dimensions of the sump and my sump chamber. It fits almost perfectly aside from a bulkhead I have in the back righthand of the sump. The base for the skimmer just overlaps the bulkhead so the skimmer doesn't sit flat. I am going to find someone that CNC's plastic and have them build me a little 1/2" tall base that the system sits on.

Cheers,
Scott

[gregzz4]

Nice Skimmer
I'm diggin you choice of materials

[sphelps]

For the stand consider just using 1/4" acrylic doubled up, easy to find and cheap. For a professional touch rough cut it to shape to of the skimmer base then use a router with a triple fluted trim flush bit to trace it flush to match the base.
Send me the base I can do it for you. Otherwise call laser impressions in Saskatoon and they'll laser cut it for you. CNC will be much more money.

[Scythanith]

Thanks Steve. I sent out a couple emails but I will give them a shout tomorrow and see what they can do for me.

Thanks Greg, I have been fairly selective on equipment. I am trying to maximize my systems reliability. I am 95% sure I am going to use the RD3 speedy pumps for the return and manifold.

[Scythanith]

The cabinetry is close to done. There are some big corrections that need to be made but you can get the overall idea. The gap in the doors on both the snake tanks and aquarium top need to be backed so there is no light leak. The lower brace on the aquarium top needs to be altered so I don't lean on it when I get into the tank from the front. Countertops need to be installed. Blah blah blah. Carpets were to be installed on wednesday but they double booked and bounced us to next week.

On a side note, I am tired of dealing with contractors that don't seem to care.

Enjoy!

Snake wall
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-QgxHZkr/0/M/i-QgxHZkr-M.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-RVL9GR6/0/M/i-RVL9GR6-M.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-w9wDNLb/0/M/i-w9wDNLb-M.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-w9wDNLb/0/M/i-w9wDNLb-M.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-QMqLWMX/0/M/i-QMqLWMX-M.jpg

[tang daddy]

That's an awesome looking set up, very modern feel to it. With the new carpets it should freshen up the room...

[mseepman]

Wow, beautiful work. Looking forward to seeing this wet.

[FishyFishy!]

Frikin DROOL!

[Delphinus]

That looks fantastic!

[Trevor W]

http://31.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lq2u0cmb2s1qii6tmo1_500.gif

[MitchM]

Very nice!

[Scythanith]

Thanks everyone. It's just a glass box until I get some life into there! I am anxiously awaiting some return pumps and a custom stand for my skimmer. After that, it's go time!

[Scythanith]

The carpet is in but I am at work. I have some iPhone pictures from Wendy but the iPhone won't do the work justice. I will post new ones once I get home :)

I also worked on the overflow plumbing that connects the overflow to the sumps. I am regretting using spa flex since it still had a bit of curl to it. I am concerned that the PVC cement won't fill the slight angle that the spa flex enters the bulkhead. If I have a leak I will re do the span with rigid 2" PVC.

I am still unsure about Apex vs Profilux. I was pretty sure Apex was the one for me, but the new wireless Mitras control has begun to sway me to the GHL side :) I want to be able to control my pumps (I decided on the new RE RD3 pumps that are 5-10v controllable), my mp40es vortechs, have water leak detectors, control water changes, run my doser, and control my lights. Well neither could run my lights not that long ago, but the new wireless module from GHL is a bit of a game changer. The more I have been reading aquadigital's reviews on how to set up AWC and ATO features on the Profilux, the easier it looks.

Any words of wisdom? I know nineball (RC) switched from Profilux to Apex and they said it was a great switch. Help....

Scott

[Scythanith]

Some tank shots. Carpet's in, baseboards are on!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-B7N2RQq/0/L/i-B7N2RQq-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-FDKgVtH/0/L/i-FDKgVtH-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-6Fkh3Kz/0/L/i-6Fkh3Kz-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Qjm7Cjb/0/L/i-Qjm7Cjb-L.jpg

[Scythanith]

Fish room.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-SgsKh3g/0/L/i-SgsKh3g-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-XRz9Zkm/0/L/i-XRz9Zkm-L.jpg

The Snake wall. Still needs some backing, tanks cleaned, a little light sealing, bla bla bla.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Kh3889S/0/L/i-Kh3889S-L.jpg

Fireplace, cabinetry, carpets, tile... nearly done!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-fbwwQtR/0/L/i-fbwwQtR-L.jpg

I still need some ducting work, and a light fixture or two. Then all the work on the tank :)

Cheers,
Scott

[lastlight]

looks fantastic! at first I thought you were using ikea cupboard panels but that seems unlikely given the variety of shapes you've used on the project. is that wood you finished yourself?

[Scythanith]

Thanks! No I did not do the cabinetry. We hired a company to custom build it for us.

[sphelps]

Looks great man, turned out awesome. Now the fun stuff begins :mrgreen:

[Scythanith]

We just had 10 babies hatch :)

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-C8XSps7/0/L/i-C8XSps7-L.jpg

[sphelps]

:biggrin:

[gregzz4]

Awesome :smile:

[wickedfrags]

looks fantastic.

[Scythanith]

looks fantastic.

Thanks Dave, your old system is one of my main inspirations for this tank! I hope to be able to grow SPS like you can.

[Scythanith]

So I have narrowed it down to two pumps: 3 x RD3 80w with 0-10v controllers OR 3 x Abyzz A100. I could have the Abyzz in a week. The RD3's "possibly" sometime in October. The only catch is the 3 RD3's would cost as much as 2 A100's... But I like the idea of running the A100's controllers as they were meant to, in tandem working together. I could easily work the return plumbing to maximize what the programming could allow for.

Also, I plumbed some spa-flex between the overflow and returns and am getting a slow drip from both bulkheads on the top sump. I am going to cut out the spa-flex, grab a female/female 2" coupler and new bulkheads and remake the connection with 2" rigid. That should alleviate any weird stress on the bulkhead gasket. Any objections?

[sphelps]

I heard the new dc option from vertex should be out soon.

[davej]

So I have narrowed it down to two pumps: 3 x RD3 80w with 0-10v controllers OR 3 x Abyzz A100. I could have the Abyzz in a week. The RD3's "possibly" sometime in October. The only catch is the 3 RD3's would cost as much as 2 A100's... But I like the idea of running the A100's controllers as they were meant to, in tandem working together. I could easily work the return plumbing to maximize what the programming could allow for.

Also, I plumbed some spa-flex between the overflow and returns and am getting a slow drip from both bulkheads on the top sump. I am going to cut out the spa-flex, grab a female/female 2" coupler and new bulkheads and remake the connection with 2" rigid. That should alleviate any weird stress on the bulkhead gasket. Any objections?

One thing that I have found.
If you install the bulkhead gasket dry, quite often it will end up leaking ( dripping ).
I usually pop the whole fitting into a bucket of water just before installation.
You get a way better seal on the gasket and won't have the dripping problem.

[Scythanith]

Cool. Unfortunately I cannot remove the bulkhead in it's current state. It is glued in! I will give the gaskets a dip when I re-do the plumbing :) It can't hurt!

[Scythanith]

I pulled the trigger and ordered a Profilux 3.1N eX Ultimate set, a second 6D-PAB powerbar, mitras controller, vortech controller, some optical level sensors, and a humidity/temperature sensor and card, slave doser.

I decided to go with GHL since I have 3 Mitras already, and the programming support is there if you look for it, and the programability is endless. Aqua digital, you're going to be called on haahaa! I want the Mitras and doser to be controlled, ATO & AWC operational, email alerts and monitoring/controllability away from the system. I want to be able to asses the system for Wendy when I am away from work!

It won't all be in until the start of October, which is ok since that's when the RD3 80w is supposed to be released. If the pumps aren't ready then I have decided to buy the Abyzz pumps, which are available now.

[Scythanith]

I just bought this beauty for the new tank (have I mentioned I love my LFS):

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/734043_555314991201518_1979721124_n.jpg

I ordered my pumps, an Abyzz A200 for the main return and an Abyzz A100 for the lower sump/manifold pump. I felt a little sick ordering them but I can't wait for the RD3 80w anymore. I have a feeling it's still a couple months away from making it to Canada.

The Abyzz sound amazing, but this will be my first encounter with them so I will do a little review once I get them here. They are controllable by the Profilux so feeding mode, thunderstorms, etc. will all have pump responses.

Cheers,
Scott

[sphelps]

balling bro :thumb:

[thmh]

Wow awesome oj hammer Scott!

~Tony

[Scythanith]

balling bro :thumb:

Go big or go home..... damn tank is worth more than the basement reno now. Feel like helping me with some Profilux programming when I get it :) I have been reading up but will likely need some help haahaa!

[Scythanith]

I messed up on the pictures. I am being told this is the one I bought :)

https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1231456_555314294534921_1757847200_n.jpg

[thmh]

Gotta catch them all Scott! Try the lps auction! :-) p. S did you see the torch I posted in the "ultra lps" thread?

~Tony

[explor3r]

I just bought this beauty for the new tank (have I mentioned I love my LFS):

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/734043_555314991201518_1979721124_n.jpg

I ordered my pumps, an Abyzz A200 for the main return and an Abyzz A100 for the lower sump/manifold pump. I felt a little sick ordering them but I can't wait for the RD3 80w anymore. I have a feeling it's still a couple months away from making it to Canada.

The Abyzz sound amazing, but this will be my first encounter with them so I will do a little review once I get them here. They are controllable by the Profilux so feeding mode, thunderstorms, etc. will all have pump responses.

Cheers,
Scott

OMG Scott that is a beautiful piece you got me drooling all over here..

[Scythanith]

OMG Scott that is a beautiful piece you got me drooling all over here..

Unfortunately I made a mistake when I posted that picture. That's the one I thought I was buying, but I was notified I bought the one in the picture below it. Still a cool hammer, but not as cool as the orange one!

So be it, you win some you lose some :)

[Scythanith]

Soooo I just found out that I need to wire a 240v receptacle for the Abyzz a200. Not a deal breaker but an added expense. I just wanted to throw that out there so anyone that is looking for one and comes across this thread gets the heads up. Back to wiring.....

I've been thinking more about the rockscape, and more specifically how to secure odd, off balanced structures. I think I will get my hands on some thicker pvc sheets and put rods into the base to secure the structures base to. Then in anticipation for the corals I wasn't to make a peg system to be able to move corals if need be. I know I have seen them on RC, but does anyone use them in their own tank. Any advice? What type of frag plugs do you use?

[sphelps]

If I was to ever build another tank from scratch, I'd just cement everything together so it was "rock" solid. The whole make a jig saw puzzle sounds good in theory but IME it's always a constant battle of parts not going back together properly. Whether some support breaks or you move stuff around for whatever reason, it just gets f'd up. Pretty sure if my rocks couldn't move I'd have more hair and less broken objects in the tank vicinity :redface:

[explor3r]

Unfortunately I made a mistake when I posted that picture. That's the one I thought I was buying, but I was notified I bought the one in the picture below it. Still a cool hammer, but not as cool as the orange one!

So be it, you win some you lose some :)

Ahhh thats ok every specie is beautiful in its own way, I dont think no one loses
I love hammer and one of the few I have to get my hands on is the orange one but they come with a nice price tag:lol:

[Scythanith]

Thanks Steve. I want to rock to be very solid, hence the base & post structure I am dreaming up. It's more the coral that I wanted to be able to remove for trimming. Or are you suggesting even moving the coral is a bad idea?

Cheers,
Scott

[sphelps]

I'm just saying from my experience once you remove rocks from the structure they don't go back in quite the same and any plastic rod system will probably eventually deform or break during the R/R process or the rock will crack/break around the drilled holes (it only takes one piece to screw the whole puzzle). Ultimately you end up with several rocks you've removed with established coral that won't go back in the structure in the same way they came out. Removing them is certainly ideal for trimming coral, cleaning or whatever but to me it's more trouble than it's worth. Better just to trim it in the tank but that's just me.

[Scythanith]

Gotcha. I was more concerned that I would put a coral frag in a poor location and have to move it. But I guess it wouldn't have encrusted into place by then anyways.

Thanks Steve!

[Scythanith]

Sleepy plug is tired....

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-68bNPX8/0/L/i-68bNPX8-L.jpg

Now it just needs it's friend to show up!

[Scythanith]

Say hello to sleepy plugs little friend! Big shout out to Jean-francois at Marinetech Inc., Michael at AquaDigital and Colby at Bayside Corals for bringing it all together!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-K7B6Wpv/0/L/i-K7B6Wpv-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-sP99mcc/0/L/i-sP99mcc-L.jpg

And some more goodies showed up today!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-QKJJv5q/0/L/i-QKJJv5q-L.jpg

There is a crap load of sensors and wiring to do now! I am fighting with one little hiccup. One of my overflow return pipes is ~11/32" too low and ~1/8" too short. I can't just move the sump closer since the second line is in a perfect location already. I will either: a) cut out the 45 elbow and move it back ~1/2" to gain the 11/32" in height, then add the 11/32" PLUS the 1/8" I am already short OR b) cut out a couple inch section along the middle and use a soft silicone hose to join the two, hoping the hose will allow for the variation.

Any suggestions?

Cheers!

[Scythanith]

Big shout out to Jean-francois at Marinetech Innovations Inc. (http://www.marinetechinnovations.com/marinetech/index.php?width=1440), Michael at AquaDigital (http://www.aqua-digital.com) and Colby at Bayside Corals (http://www.baysidecorals.com/store/) for bringing it all together!

The first post locked in a couple minutes after posting it so I had to put my edited post here :)

[sphelps]

Nice looking gear bud. If you need to extend your piping a bit why not use a rubber coupling?

http://s3.pexsupply.com/images/products/zoom/4560606-1.jpg

[Scythanith]

I was hoping to avoid it for the simple reason I don't think it looks nice haahaa! I am afraid that even if I cut up what I currently have and try to get it perfect the connections will still be the tiniest bit off and have to use a coupler anyways. I guess it's just personal preference, but I don't want to hum and haw over a simple return pipe either!

[Kryptic4L]

loving lego man.

[Scythanith]

He can't wait for his first swim!

[Scythanith]

Here is the plumbing and miscellaneous work I had completed before leaving for work.

I envision the Mitras ballast top left, the Vortech controllers and battery backup mid-left, and have room to spare centre and right side.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-v5GN9xs/0/L/i-v5GN9xs-L.jpg

The stacked sumps. You can see the returns from the overflow going into the sump top left. I hand tightened them and still had a couple leaks. My LFS told me to use a wrench and give them all quarter turn and low and behold they are all good! You can see the abyzz A200 in the primary return chamber.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-s5CZjkv/0/L/i-s5CZjkv-L.jpg

The lower sump's return manifold is done. The three bulkheads on the bottom sump are for draining the chambers and one is an open emergency drain (far left).

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-CJF8QpD/0/L/i-CJF8QpD-L.jpg

You may be able to just make out the lower drain plumbing. The centre and right bulkheads are on ball valves while the left is a safety to prevent overflowing in a worst case scenario.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-ZWxFN9M/0/L/i-ZWxFN9M-L.jpg

I need to clean the 1/2" plywood up a bit more, a little white caulking, etc., but the plywood is in place to allow me to affix electronics, powerhead controls, wiring looms, power bars, really anything I want to... to the wall. The space on the right is for the reactor shelf, dosing containers, profilux, etc.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-4G5w3CS/0/L/i-4G5w3CS-L.jpg

[Scythanith]

Does anyone have personal experience with the RK2 ozone generators? I am looking at buying their 300mg/hr unit. Also, would you be content using the Profilux system to control and monitor the ORP or would you buy the RK2 monitor controller? I personally feel that the Profilux should do the job just fine, but am open to everyones suggestions!

Cheers,
Scott

[Madreefer]

Very nice build. You've got a pretty sweet skimmer. You won't need to run ozone with it. IMO.

[Scythanith]

I'm running ozone for water clarity, something the skimmer won't really effect (as far as I know).

[Scythanith]

It has begun! Damn is my RODI slow! I have the 100psi booster on there and it's still painfully slow.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-LzFVVk4/0/L/i-LzFVVk4-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-XBsnvkw/0/L/i-XBsnvkw-L.jpg

Return plumbing is 90% done. I just have to paint the 90's black and glue them in!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Lh2DvTV/0/L/i-Lh2DvTV-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-7T6rvHN/0/L/i-7T6rvHN-L.jpg

[lastlight]

nice accessible sump off to the side. i loved that about my fish room too. i had always planned to add the fridge but you beat me to it lol. looks great!

[sphelps]

Great job on the plumbing, did that silicone hose come with the pump?

[Scythanith]

Great job on the plumbing, did that silicone hose come with the pump?

Thanks Steve. I had to order the silicone connector kit from Abyzz. The clamps are pretty badass though!

[Scythanith]

nice accessible sump off to the side. i loved that about my fish room too. i had always planned to add the fridge but you beat me to it lol. looks great!

The freezer is awesome! All the fish food is on it's own and I'm not leaving the little foil squares from the PE Mysis in the people food freezer. I am looking forward to working on the tank once it's up and running. I am still being cautious not to crowd equipment in and still don't have everything 100% figured out as to where I want it. For example, I have 3 x 300w EJ heaters that I don't know where I am going to put. Sure they can fit in plenty of places but where is the best lol!?

[kien]

man, you kids and your fancy schmancy fish rooms. So jelly right now!!

[sphelps]

I like putting heaters in overflow boxes, good amount of turnaround and wasted space otherwise. You'd probably want at least one in the bottom sump as well though, if you drain it for water changes or maintenance you'll probably want to preheat the water before turning it back on, unless you have a heated storage bin for that.

[Scythanith]

Locline returns!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-rdJVRj9/0/L/i-rdJVRj9-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-cgWCtkG/0/L/i-cgWCtkG-L.jpg

[Scythanith]

I like putting heaters in overflow boxes, good amount of turnaround and wasted space otherwise. You'd probably want at least one in the bottom sump as well though, if you drain it for water changes or maintenance you'll probably want to preheat the water before turning it back on, unless you have a heated storage bin for that.

I am hoping to have a ~40g mixing tank that will have a pump and heater. The profilux will run that pump with a sensor to perform water changes.

[Madreefer]

I just noticed your skimmer has a different base than what i've seen before. What skimmer is that? I thought it was an AlphaCone. Am I mistaken?

[Scythanith]

You're right, you are mistaken :)

It's a bubble king double cone 250. Very similar beasts, but you can see there are some differences. I also have the rd3 speedy pump running it.

Cheers!

[sphelps]

Will that lock line be exposed now with the way you did it? I thought the plan was to thread the lock line straight into the reducer with only a couple pieces and a nozzle to just pierce the water surface.

[Scythanith]

Will that lock line be exposed now with the way you did it? I thought the plan was to thread the lock line straight into the reducer with only a couple pieces and a nozzle to just pierce the water surface.

There was no way to put valves on that way. This way they are all controllable to a degree. Also, now that I have the black vinyl background on you can't see them unless you really look for them.

I am having issues with bubbles from the weir at the end of the frag section flowing into the pump chamber… mass bubbles which are getting sucked into the return pump. I think the solution is a little section of foam held in an acrylic basket to help disperse the water. When I just held the foam ~1" under the water where the stream flows in it completely dissipated the bubbles. Also, I need to slip some risers in the overflow box. The water is falling into the bad and is quite noisy. This will also control how much water flows out of the tank if we have a power outage.

Any other ideas on fixes Steve?

[explor3r]

This is super exiting, this stage rocks Im sure you can hardly sleep thinking of all the things to do. what beauty!!!!!

[Scythanith]

I am still missing the lower sump pump so I can't really get things running in a balanced fashion. That's the frustrating part haahaa! Right now I want to get that sorted out so I can get her salted and ready to throw some fish into :)

[reefermadness]

I just went over this thread again and I have to say Scott.....this is one of the nicest builds I've seen. Amazing job. The planning is incredible....and that fish room, wow.

[sphelps]

Did you get that baffle issue sorted yet?

[Scythanith]

Nope, ACL reconstruction was today. Tank will have to wait for a bit now. I have to add some risers in the overflow box to keep the tank from draining down to the bottom of the weir teeth. That overloads the sumps. Way too much water goes down the emergency drain. I think raising the overflow box level should fix that. What do you think Steve?

As for the baffle situation, I am hoping that the lower sump return pump adds enough volume to the pump chamber to reduce the distance the water drops from the frag section to the pump chamber. Maybe that will alleviate the bubbles, yes no? If not I tried holding some fluval foam just under the water level in the pump chamber and it dissipated the bubbles before they entered the chamber. If that's the way to go I need to make some sort of a foam holder that hangs on to the baffle edge.

I really won't know until I get my other pump running and see if the increase in pump chamber water height solves the bubbles.

What do you guys/gals think?

[Scythanith]

I just went over this thread again and I have to say Scott.....this is one of the nicest builds I've seen. Amazing job. The planning is incredible....and that fish room, wow.

I appreciate it Darryll! Your system is one of the beauties I am modelling my tank on :)

[sphelps]

A couple kinks to still work out there for sure. Sounds like that pump sure pushes a lot of water, I know when I ran the two wavelines I had to cut out the weir teeth to handle the flow properly, but at the time concept was cutting pretty narrow teeth. You can add risers in the overflow but they shouldn't prevent the the tank from draining to overflow weir height, only prevent the overflow box from draining and control the overflow box water level to prevent trickling noise. If the teeth is holding back that much water they may be too restrictive. Basically you should try and limit the tank to 1" water level drop during shut down. Usually 2" is actually my go by number but with large tanks and small sumps that's not usually possible. With 1" you need space for 3456 cubic inches in the sump which means if the sump is 48" x 16" you need 4.5" of extra space above running water level. Now if you're seeing a 2" that's 9.5" in the sump needed which isn't going to happen.

I don't see a check valve on the return, that's potentially a way of reducing some back flow if it's draining lower than weir height, if not then not worth while.

The problem with the baffle is it really shouldn't be a baffle to be honest, one of those things that got lost in translation, not shown on drawing. I'm use to building these myself out of acrylic so most of the time all the details aren't shown. The baffle should be more of a screen, just to protect the pump, like mine:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/m3%20tank%20build%202012/75D8C959-E7DC-4DC2-8CCE-41BB1A416BFE-2517-000005559F9E5222.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/m3%20tank%20build%202012/943D7BD0-AE66-475C-88C8-36D45546B7D3-2517-00000555A67284F7.jpg

[sphelps]

So going forward my suggestion is fix the baffle first, you could lower it or raise the overflow height but it's not ideal. The baffle should be replaced with some form of screen. I can help you out here, build you a replacement and send it your way.

If you're unable to reduce the water drop from the display to something your sump can handle as is then I suggest you ditch the built in refugium and remove it's divider, use that space to extend the return pump section which should add quite a bit of empty running volume.

[Scythanith]

So going forward my suggestion is fix the baffle first, you could lower it or raise the overflow height but it's not ideal. The baffle should be replaced with some form of screen. I can help you out here, build you a replacement and send it your way.

If you're unable to reduce the water drop from the display to something your sump can handle as is then I suggest you ditch the built in refugium and remove it's divider, use that space to extend the return pump section which should add quite a bit of empty running volume.

I'd really appreciate it Steve! Could you design something to replace the baffle? I could cut out the one that is there right now easily enough.

When I get mobile I will go and check the total drainage when the power goes out. I don't think it drained anything below the teeth so I don't think a check valve is the answer.

Thanks for the help!

[sphelps]

Yeah no problem, can you send me the current baffle dimensions?

[Scythanith]

11.5" wide x 10" tall. And I'd like to be able to flow ~2000-2500 GPH through it :)

[Scythanith]

First 12 hours of skimmate. The tank has ~190lbs of Walt Smith Fiji Ultra and Pukani. There was very little die off and some fun shapes. So now I am trying to get the Profilux up and running while the rock cures. I am running into issues with network connectivity right off the hop. Crappy.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-rmvJm2r/0/L/i-rmvJm2r-L.jpg

[Scythanith]

Looks cramped but it's not that bad, lens makes it a little distorted haahaa!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-8tRXXcB/0/L/i-8tRXXcB-L.jpg

Electrics and controls, reactors, wiring, etc. The bottom reactor rack is just temporary. There will be some organization, a drip tray, and the ozone system will be purring when I am done. Also the Tunze ATO will be replaced with the Profilux system once I have time to program it. There will be a custom ~25g ATO reservoir where the 5g pail is sitting as well.


http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-TH73qVJ/0/L/i-TH73qVJ-L.jpg

Top Sump. I am getting a frag rack built for it and a removable grate where the old glass baffle was. The heater will be moved to a cleaner location as well. I installed a GF check valve on the bottom sump return (locline) so that I didn't siphon out the top sump if the lower pump shuts off. There is also a float valve that will tell the profilux if the top sump isn't draining to the lower sump for some reason (snail in the herbie, etc.). The profilux in turn will shut off the lower sump return pump and send out and alarm.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-ZpV8KL2/0/L/i-ZpV8KL2-L.jpg

Bottom Sump. The ATO wiring is a mess but will cleaned up next time I get back from work. A gate valve is on order to convert the overflow to a herbie to get the noise and bubbles down. I am still waiting for the Abyzz pump for the lower sump but installed an old quite ones just to get the system flowing. Damn it's a loud pump. The left chamber still may be a refugium, but I am also thinking it will make a great water change chamber as well. I haven't decided yet. Small ~5-10g water changes every week sound good to me.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-BFtL3Pc/0/L/i-BFtL3Pc-L.jpg

Close up on the pump controllers. So far I have nothing but praise for the Abyzz A200. It's SILENT. It's a powerhouse. The controller is simple but has a lot of options. So far so good. The RD3 Speedy is doing its thing as well, making lots of bubbles and skimmate.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-nHSD2Fg/0/L/i-nHSD2Fg-L.jpg

Just another view. You can see the VorTech module, Profilux Touch module, humidity/temp probe hanging between the profilux and doser. I am going to put another shelf right about where the touch screen is so I can set the dosing liquids right under the doser. The touch screen will get relocated to the display side of the tank, on the upper right bulkhead.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-5NCTDfW/0/L/i-5NCTDfW-L.jpg

Regrets so far are not enough regular receptacles. Some things don't need to plug into a profilux, like the Mitras, VorTech's. That's 7 plugs right there. I may add another gang box by the lights/vortechs just to feed them on their own. Free up the profilux sockets.

[Delphinus]

Looks rad and I love the cable tracks. I wish I had gotten some for my tank room as there is just no way to make loose cables look tidy on their own!

[Scythanith]

I am sure I will take it apart again and re-do the cords at some point, but I am content for now. The tracks are called Panduit if you need some. I bought mine from Eccol Electric. There are all kinds of sizes, but I ended up getting 2"x2".

[Scythanith]

This is a little off topic put pretty darn cool. I saw some art of animals on dictionary pages a little while back and thought it was awesome. I contacted the artist, Luca Grant and asked him to create some for our basement development. We asked him for a Golden Rhomboid Wrasse, Satanic Leaf-tail Gecko, Zebra Plecostomous, and an Australian Frilled-neck lizard. We just received them and couldn't be happier! You can check out his site here (http://lucasgrant.co.za/page.html).

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-8J2x98G/0/XL/i-8J2x98G-XL.jpg

[Scythanith]

The artists name is Lucas Grant, not Luca…. I wish the post editing time was longer.

[wickedfrags]

Is the collection cup on that skimmer tapped so skimmate does not run into the tank in the event of an overflow? It appears to be, just see some brown on the outside of the skimmer.

First 12 hours of skimmate. The tank has ~190lbs of Walt Smith Fiji Ultra and Pukani. There was very little die off and some fun shapes. So now I am trying to get the Profilux up and running while the rock cures. I am running into issues with network connectivity right off the hop. Crappy.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-rmvJm2r/0/L/i-rmvJm2r-L.jpg

[SanguinesDream]

This is a little off topic put pretty darn cool. I saw some art of animals on dictionary pages a little while back and thought it was awesome. I contacted the artist, Luca Grant and asked him to create some for our basement development. We asked him for a Golden Rhomboid Wrasse, Satanic Leaf-tail Gecko, Zebra Plecostomous, and an Australian Frilled-neck lizard. We just received them and couldn't be happier! You can check out his site here (http://lucasgrant.co.za/page.html).

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-8J2x98G/0/XL/i-8J2x98G-XL.jpg

LOVE those!!! I've been collecting art for years and the concept is so Victorian-era etnobotany.

[Skimmerking]

WOW man that tank setup is retarded. looks very well put together

[Scythanith]

Is the collection cup on that skimmer tapped so skimmate does not run into the tank in the event of an overflow? It appears to be, just see some brown on the outside of the skimmer.

Hey Dave,

Nope nothing is taped. The skim mate chamber had filled quickly, forcing some of the skimmate out of the breather holes on the top of the collection cup lid. That's where the brown gunk came from. I will connect the cup drain to a skimmate locker once I get the system purring, and I'd love to put on a neck cleaner, but that's down the road as well.

Should I be taping something? I am not familiar with that technique if I should be :)

[Scythanith]

LOVE those!!! I've been collecting art for years and the concept is so Victorian-era etnobotany.

Check his site out! He's extremely reasonable with pricing!

[Scythanith]

WOW man that tank setup is retarded. looks very well put together

Thanks! I am trying to avoid having to go back and make major alterations down the road, so I am hoping a little planning goes a long long way. Steve has already had me make some alterations, warning me to do them now instead of when the tanks full of life. I started the same place everyone else did, a used main tank, repurposed tank for a sump, turbo floater skimmer, some cheap power heads, bla bla bla. I truly believe in you get what you pay for. Be it quality of the parts, ability, service, etc. so with this build I wanted reliability to be the number one aspect. I am away for a while at a time so I wanted to be able to keep an eye on things so a computer was a necessity.

I really hope I can nurture a unique tank, that takes cues from some of my favourite tanks such as Darryl and Dave's tanks. I really think the rock work sets the tone, so I will be spending a good amount of time on that Saturday.

Cheers and thanks for looking!

[Scythanith]

I am going to work on live rock on Saturday, wish me luck! Any suggestions are welcome. These aren't my pictures but are what I am using for inspiration. I won't have the emarco R400 I was hoping for. Too hard to get in Canada. So I will be doing what I can with putty and I may use threaded rods.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Nbzz292/0/L/i-Nbzz292-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-5CBRThP/0/L/i-5CBRThP-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-PKJZWFx/0/L/i-PKJZWFx-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-fVrtnZ3/0/L/i-fVrtnZ3-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-VWG2tDW/0/L/i-VWG2tDW-L.jpg

[wreck]

Good luck!

Second kast photo what is the yellow fish in that oic?

[sphelps]

blotched anthias

[wickedfrags]

"tapped" rather than "taped".............the process of making a threaded connection where one did not previously exist, such as on older skimmer collection cups to allow draining. As you noted, appears yours does have one, using the orange colour plug at this time.

Hey Dave,

Nope nothing is taped. The skim mate chamber had filled quickly, forcing some of the skimmate out of the breather holes on the top of the collection cup lid. That's where the brown gunk came from. I will connect the cup drain to a skimmate locker once I get the system purring, and I'd love to put on a neck cleaner, but that's down the road as well.

Should I be taping something? I am not familiar with that technique if I should be :)

[wreck]

Ty!

[Scythanith]

Haahaa I see now Dave! Yes it is tapped and has a drain. It's not all setup to drain yet as I want a safety backup in case the skimmer decides to overflow uncontrollably. I wouldn't want the ATO to add copious amounts of RO to the tank.

[Scythanith]

Ty!

?

[wreck]

?


i had asked what the yellow fish was (blotched anthias) in the second last photo that u posted, someone answered my question and i said ty but forgot to quote.

:)

[Scythanith]

I gotcha! Steve knows his fish :)

[asylumdown]

I want to live in your fish room. Is that weird?

[Scythanith]

Nope, bring a pillow :)

[Scythanith]

Not the greatest shots but you can get the idea from them :)

There is a valley through the middle of the tank and two dominant structures to either side. The left has a large cave under it and the right has a high arch and a bit of a cove feature. The water will flow in a counter clockwise direction when looking at the tank from the front. High energy from the lower left and top right (moving left). The lower energy will be the lower right hand side of the tank and the sand. I really wanted to add more rock to "join" the structures a little more but I keep telling myself "no, the corals will do that in time!"

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-vMsmmBK/0/XL/i-vMsmmBK-XL.jpg

Left
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-vGRbvWm/0/XL/i-vGRbvWm-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-z64P3Sm/0/XL/i-z64P3Sm-XL.jpg

Right
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-VSP9JbX/0/XL/i-VSP9JbX-XL.jpg

From the right viewing pane
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-tZNNxbJ/0/XL/i-tZNNxbJ-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-zgcV5rw/0/XL/i-zgcV5rw-XL.jpg

[Doc_Polit]

Nice looking scape. I like it.

[eli@fijireefrock.com]

I love your setup:thumb:
Man going through the pages making me want to start my build sooner than I am suppose to...

[Delphinus]

Nice work with the rocks!

Man, pity about the Emaco. Was thinking about you as I had some concrete to fix in my basement floor and I ended up using some of my R400 because I really didn't want to run to HD anymore that weekend. The bag's been open for 2 years and at the time I bought it at half price because it was past it's "sell by" date (who knew concrete had expiry dates). Anyhow the stuff is good as a filler but maybe on account of its age it was no good anywhere where I put it on thinly (just crumbled to dust after it dried). So it sucks but I think I have to chuck out the last bit of it. A bit disheartening to hear we can't get it up here in Canada anymore. That makes no sense .. but yet another thing to add to the long list of things that don't make sense "because Canada" like 30% more expensive whatevers. Sheesh!

But I digress... Awesome aquascape!

[Scythanith]

I shouldn't say I couldn't get it, more so I chose not to. BASF retailers wanted ~$1100 for one 55lbs bag and 4 containers of the polymer. The product itself was about $200 of the cost. Shipping was $900.

Thanks for the compliments everyone! I just need some coral to fill it up now :)

[Delphinus]

Wow that's crazy.. Yeah epoxy looks mighty fine. A wee bit less than $900 to ship too..

[Scythanith]

I am going to grab another mp40 and have two on the left side creating flow across the bottom of the tank from left to right. Then I am hoping by having the three returns on that side all aimed high they will continue moving the flow to the overflow weir. That should get as much of the surface skim as possible to the sump. The other three mp40's will be along the back of the tank pushing to the front.

I am hoping to take some of my corals from the 40g and transfer them to the 270g. I will have to wait and see if the peppermint shrimp have cleaned up my aptasia problem or not. I don't want to willingly add aptasia to my new tank if I can avoid it.

My nitrates are at ~10 and the phosphates are at 0.1. I have GFO in place for the phosphates, but decided not to run my biopellet reactor until my A200 for the bottom sump is installed. The Quietones 6000 didn't have the juice to run the reactors and the return tot he top sump. I bet if I had a ball valve on the return to the top sump I could have got the bio pellets churning a little better but that defeats the purpose. The cleaned water needs to get back into the top sump.

Also, I am going to pick up some tumbled marble tiles for frags. I am going to use them in the frag section of my top sump after soaking them to leach out any bad stuff.

I should be home in 10 days and get back to work on the tank when I can around the holidays. Right now my three fish from the 40g are transferred. A yellow tang, royal gramma and long nosed hawkfish. I also added a small clean up crew to start dealing with the small amount of algae that's starting. There are 4 conches, some cowries and some turbo snails. Oh, I also moved my long spine urchin into the 270g as well. Really all there is left to do is move the corals

Cheers,
Scott

[wickedfrags]

With a tank this size, once somewhat mature, get a copperband butterfly. Great looking fish, and eat aptasia. I had a CBB for about 3 years and never had one, and if I had one on a rock, I placed it out in the open and he made short work of it.

However - do NOT add a mandarin goby! They compete for the same food, my 3 year old CBB died in one week after adding one.

Looking forward to more updates. dave

I am hoping to take some of my corals from the 40g and transfer them to the 270g. I will have to wait and see if the peppermint shrimp have cleaned up my aptasia problem or not. I don't want to willingly add aptasia to my new tank if I can avoid it.

[Scythanith]

Thanks Dave. I had a CBB in my 85g for a good 2 years until he disappeared into the rock work forever. That was a very well established tank with tons of pods, etc. I will give one another shot in the big tank a year down the road maybe. Like you said, once it has an established microfauna.

I can't wait to get home and see what the peppermints have accomplished. I want to move corals haahaa!

[Scythanith]

I got an A200 from Abyzz instead of an A100 since it wasn't ready yet. I pulled the Quietones out and adapted the 1.5" output of the Abyzz to the 1" manifold.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-76XNXBV/0/L/i-76XNXBV-L.jpg

Here is the A200 on the bottom sump.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Pr92fgq/0/L/i-Pr92fgq-L.jpg

You may have noticed the large white zip ties holding the silicone connectors on to the Abyzz pumps. This is why I took the stainless shell hose clamps off.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-nL8dCcG/0/L/i-nL8dCcG-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-gM8P4h7/0/L/i-gM8P4h7-L.jpg

And my little buddy was hanging around so I had him pose for a couple.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-hpmrFFC/0/L/i-hpmrFFC-L.jpg

I still need to add two more MP40's. I have one running on the 40g coral tank that will be transferred once that tanks shut down.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-tnnkBWc/0/L/i-tnnkBWc-L.jpg

I added some corals. I hope to get some shots this weekend. A nice green/orange scolymia, a pink wall hammer, an orange frogspawn, a nice acan colony, and a small zoa frag.

Cheers,
Scott

[BlueTang<3]

Wow nice job in the fish room very neat and clean, looks good

[Scythanith]

Wow nice job in the fish room very neat and clean, looks good

Thanks! I originally wanted a 360 :) 6x4x2! But there was an issue with having it built in the basement so I had to drop it down to 6x3x2 :(

Cheers!

[Scythanith]

Here are a couple quick photos from the holidays :)

Pink with gold base.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-z5Wqj9r/0/XL/i-z5Wqj9r-XL.jpg

Sort of blue with gold base. The blue is getting closer to a true blue everyday.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-JhMVRTB/0/XL/i-JhMVRTB-XL.jpg

Good ol' acans.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-tBtDmnR/0/XL/i-tBtDmnR-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-L7sDVW5/0/XL/i-L7sDVW5-XL.jpg

Golden hammer.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-LZZNT6W/0/XL/i-LZZNT6W-XL.jpg

Scoly.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-rNqc2xZ/0/XL/i-rNqc2xZ-XL.jpg

[Scythanith]

Just some random shots.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-szzHsFr/0/XL/i-szzHsFr-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-gNGLSps/0/XL/i-gNGLSps-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-pzSGCsr/0/XL/i-pzSGCsr-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-NMF6h9T/0/XL/i-NMF6h9T-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-CfTScJh/0/XL/i-CfTScJh-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-wLL3487/0/XL/i-wLL3487-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Vht8Pvw/0/XL/i-Vht8Pvw-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-kWGtQ5c/0/XL/i-kWGtQ5c-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-N7z8CGV/0/XL/i-N7z8CGV-XL.jpg

[Scythanith]

Some new corals from a great local boxing day sale and ones I transferred from the 40g. They aren't the best pictures but I wanted to share :)

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-dFDgwVr/0/XL/i-dFDgwVr-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-tTXkQWp/0/XL/i-tTXkQWp-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-M7VqVkB/0/XL/i-M7VqVkB-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-BMhNVd7/0/XL/i-BMhNVd7-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-xh2BxMX/0/XL/i-xh2BxMX-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-HVvSkZ2/0/XL/i-HVvSkZ2-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-W7pN5Lk/0/L/i-W7pN5Lk-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-ksb8m8p/0/XL/i-ksb8m8p-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-nNxwX3J/0/XL/i-nNxwX3J-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-FhD9gp9/0/XL/i-FhD9gp9-XL.jpg

[Scythanith]

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-TXKbXNT/0/XL/i-TXKbXNT-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-TfTNt6W/0/XL/i-TfTNt6W-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-pDJXXzQ/0/XL/i-pDJXXzQ-XL.jpg

I have high hopes for this one.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-8mr9PfS/0/XL/i-8mr9PfS-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-NCRjsFk/0/XL/i-NCRjsFk-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-4w8KKmh/0/XL/i-4w8KKmh-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-nBtJtTC/0/XL/i-nBtJtTC-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-LrwBk97/0/XL/i-LrwBk97-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-cWTDGKJ/0/XL/i-cWTDGKJ-XL.jpg

Bought this when it was brown. It had a hard time, but now is off the hook!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-sWF7c2H/0/XL/i-sWF7c2H-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-8VPBLQD/0/XL/i-8VPBLQD-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-JV9fzxc/0/XL/i-JV9fzxc-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-vrCd6s2/0/XL/i-vrCd6s2-XL.jpg

Red Fungia sp.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-kn6bN8W/0/XL/i-kn6bN8W-XL.jpg

[reefermadness]

Nice....glad to see those frags surviving the transition.

[Scythanith]

Nice....glad to see those frags surviving the transition.

I will need to buy some of the SPS frags again…. the Acropora sp. didn't do well in the holding tank but 3 survived.

Mad Jelly will get an email once the tank is stable :)

[BlueTang<3]

Those are some crazy corals you got in there, I'm envious

[Scythanith]

I am working on ordering some of these (http://www.mikalor.com/data/pdf/pdfingles/1003110449_titanium.pdf) up to replace my zip tie fasteners. I pulled the stainless steel hose clamps that came with my abyzz pumps, as they were corroding. I put two heavy duty zip ties on each end and tightened the hell out of them. But the back pressure on my manifold ended up popping the silicone connector right off of the lower pump. I was lucky that the pump flipped forward and starved itself of water by the intake sucking itself to the glass. I was lucky that in itself didn't crack the glass. Anywho, I put some weight, an old quiet ones pump, on the top of the abyzz to keep it from pressuring out of the silicone connector.

I am hoping the 100% titanium base clamps will do the job. Does anyone else have experience with them?

Cheers,
Scott

[sphelps]

You can get plastic hose clamps (http://www.hcl-clamping.com/Plastic-Worm-Drive-Hose-Clamp-P18) as well, but 100% titanium would be ideal.

[IanWR]

I'm surprised the abyzz pumps don't come with corrosion-proof clamps in the first place. At least there are options out there.

[Scythanith]

I'm surprised the abyzz pumps don't come with corrosion-proof clamps in the first place. At least there are options out there.

I was surprised the Abyzz ones **** the bed so quickly as well. I wasn't happy to be honest but ces't la vie. I am ordering some titanium hose clamps from a company out of Spain, called Mikalor.

[reefermadness]

I will need to buy some of the SPS frags again…. the Acropora sp. didn't do well in the holding tank but 3 survived.

Mad Jelly will get an email once the tank is stable :)

Oh sorry to hear that.

[Scythanith]

I lost the ORA Red Planet, WF cobalt tort, Lime in the Sky stag and glowstick Sarmentosa. All the monti's, the undata, and pink lemonade and kushberry are doing well, as are the chalices & pectina.

[Scythanith]

100% 50-70mm Titanium worm clamps…… $55 a piece. Well, at least I know the pumps shouldn't explode off unexpectedly.

[Scythanith]

I also put a 1/2" loc-line valve on my return from the bottom sump to increase the back pressure to force more water to the reactors. I haven't been able to utilize it much as I am not home to put the new Ti hose clamps on and I don't dare increase the back pressure while it's only zip ties holding it together :)

Tank is looking ok. I am have a cyan issue in the sand and on the lower rocks. Corals are doing great though! I am going to up my water changes and maybe refresh my GFO and debating adding more bio-pellets now but I will take it one step at a time.

[Myka]

I am have a cyan issue in the sand and on the lower rocks. [...] and debating adding more bio-pellets now but I will take it one step at a time.

Adding more bio-pellets will probably make your Cyano worse. Check nitrate - if you have any nitrate at all back off on the GFO a sniff so the bio-pellets have some phosphate so they can reduce the nitrate. Siphoning Cyano out is really the most effective way to eliminate it.


Sent from my Dungeon using mad Ninja Skillz.

[Scythanith]

Thanks Mindy. After I typed the bio pellets comment I thought to myself, wait… isn't that a carbon source for the bacteria to consume…. ah whatever! LOL! I will test when I get home in ~5 days and start syphoning. Wendy just test my other parameters. Mg 1245, Ca 404, Alk 148 (~8.3 dKh), s.g. 1.027. And a bunch on the profilux that i don't need to bore people with :)

[Myka]

Haha! Are you trying out the new Tropic Marin salt?

[Scythanith]

Yep, and I expressed concerns with Colby about the extra "carbon source" but he assured me it wasn't in a quantity that would affect my tank. And to be fair, the cyan was growing before I started the new salt.

The thing I was a little surprised at was that the salt was crusty when I opened it. I have to dig away at the salt to make up new salt water.

[sphelps]

FYI I had cyano after my summer neglect, 100% gone within a few days after I started dosing zeobak and zeofood7 again. Didn't even have the reactor up at the time. I suspect the zeovit cyano clean will also be quite effective. Something to consider I guess.

[Scythanith]

Safe to use the product without the zeovit reactor? I have been reading about MB7 and chemipure as well.

[wickedfrags]

red slime remover is reef safe IME

[sphelps]

Safe to use the product without the zeovit reactor? I have been reading about MB7 and chemipure as well.

Yeap

[Scythanith]

Thanks everyone! I want to nip it in the bud when I get home. I only have about 5 days at home unfortunately. Mindy, in the business of tank maintenance? :)

[Myka]

I never had any luck with any Zeovit products or MB7 against Cyano. ChemiClean works like a hot damn. I haven't had any issues using it in reef tank, but "mseepman" reported some coral loss in his tank recently during treatment.

Mindy, in the business of tank maintenance? :)

Holy! News travels fast! It's not even official yet. :lol:

Sent from my Dungeon using mad Ninja Skillz.

[Scythanith]

Haahaa that was a shot in the dark! I guess it worked. I had no idea you were looking to get into it. We must talk :) PM me if you're really looking for clientele.

[Myka]

Pretty good shot in the dark! I sent PM in SaskReef.

Sent from my Dungeon using mad Ninja Skillz.

[mr.wilson]

You might be better off running the Abyzz pump as an external. They run pretty cool so there isn't much heat transfer, but even at low amperage, that's 400v in saltwater you are exposed to. I use larger Banjo brand all stainless clamps. I'm using silicone hose, but would use braided in the future as it is less likely to split or cut.

http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af109/reefandrainforest/IMG_5120.jpg (http://s998.photobucket.com/user/reefandrainforest/media/IMG_5120.jpg.html)

The carbon dosing is definitely the cause of the cyanobacteria. I would discontinue it and use erythromycin phosphate (250mg/10 gal x two doses, two days apart). Red Slime remover switched to a non-phosphate erythromycin and it doesn't appear to work anymore. There's more phosphate in a single tank feeding, so it's a non-issue. Remember to turn off skimmer, o3, UV, and chemical media. Turn skimmer on conservatively over a 3-5 day period as carbon removed the E.M.

Turning down the white lights and relying on blue light will not stress the corals too much and help fight the red slime.

I use a small brine shrimp net and a baster to physically remove as much red slime as possible, as it is toxic as it dies off.

[Scythanith]

The system is design for internal pumps, so that's not going to change. The pumps are connected to an in service box GFCI breaker. If there isa ground they are kicked out in a millisecond. I'm not worried about the juice in the water. I have some new pure titanium worm gear hose clamps that will go on today. Hopefully that will alleviate all my concerns about corrosion and the pumps blowing off the silicone connectors.

I still am unsure as to what I am going to do with my reactors. Cyanobacteria by nature is a nitrogen fixer, so why would I remove the bio-pellets, which are a harbour for bacteria that consumer nitrogen and phosphates? Should I try and start from scratch as Mr. Wilson suggests? Take the BP off-line and sort out the issue in the tank, then maybe bring the bio-pellets back online with new pellets in the machine?

I am going to go do some netting and siphoning for now.

[Myka]

Well just how much cyano do you have? Post some pics?

Sent from my Dungeon using mad Ninja Skillz.

[Scythanith]

Here are some quick shots. They aren't all corrected, unsharpened, bla bla bla but you get the idea!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-TVXS7xw/0/L/i-TVXS7xw-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Z95jVXx/0/L/i-Z95jVXx-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-DcZcfSm/0/L/i-DcZcfSm-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-bwrbHLn/0/L/i-bwrbHLn-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-2TxT8jT/0/L/i-2TxT8jT-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-hcJFxS4/0/L/i-hcJFxS4-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-j2WX3hz/0/L/i-j2WX3hz-L.jpg

Here is what came in the mail while I was gone.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-JBG5mMx/0/L/i-JBG5mMx-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-FmG4R6D/0/L/i-FmG4R6D-L.jpg

[Myka]

From your pics, I'm not entirely convinced that is cyano. The color in the pics looks more of a brown color and snot-like? Have you seen dinoflagellates before? I'm a bit worried that is the beginning of dinos. What's your pH at? Which tester?

[Scythanith]

It's more reddish to maroon in colour. The pH from the profilux sensor is 7.9. It was calibrated a month ago. My pH has barely every went above 8.0 pH.

It doesn't get stringy or bubble up at night. I think I will replace my GFO with some new stuff. Get my GAC and ozone running full torque. Siphon out what's on the surface.

Any other suggestions?

[Myka]

It's more reddish to maroon in colour. The pH from the profilux sensor is 7.9. It was calibrated a month ago. My pH has barely every went above 8.0 pH.

It doesn't get stringy or bubble up at night. I think I will replace my GFO with some new stuff. Get my GAC and ozone running full torque. Siphon out what's on the surface.

Any other suggestions?

Ok, maybe it's the sweet red Fungia making the algae look less cyano-like. I hope so, dinos suck. Is your fish room located on an outside wall of your basement? A small vent to outside can make a big difference for pH. It would be nice to keep it above 8.0. I'm not sure if ozone and biopellets play friendly together - Mr. Wilson might know more about that. You have your BP effluent plumbed direct to your skimmer inlet, right? Maybe dial back your BP effluent a bit to try to help with cyano. Siphoning will certainly be a big help.

[Scythanith]

Our house has a full on HRV system. All of the air in the home is exchanged approximately every 7hrs. I don't think I am going to pop a whole in the wall for more fresh air. Should I do something else to bump my pH up? I am running Tailored Marine Ca, Alk & Mg on my doser and topping up with RODI.

I can't honestly say the offending mat isn't dinoflagellates. I'm not educated enough to say either way. Feel free to come on over and take a look for yourself if you have time!

Haahaa I always feel like a little kid when you make comments like this :) "You have your BP effluent plumbed direct to your skimmer inlet, right?" Yes, I do. Before it was within a couple inches of the skimmer intake, but now it's essentially touching the red dragon intake.

Cheers,
Scott

[StirCrazy]

Our house has a full on HRV system. All of the air in the home is exchanged approximately every 7hrs. I don't think I am going to pop a whole in the wall for more fresh air.

Cheers,
Scott


that is a very low air change rate, it should be about once every hour.
if you look a tight home has a natural air change rate going down to
0.33 /hour and they need mechanical ventilation to bring them up to that once per hour range.

Steve

[Scythanith]

haahaa you're right, I did the math in my head as cfh, not cfm! It can turn our house over 1.7 - 6.7x per hour depending on settings.

[BlueTang<3]

Curious on your cayno issue and see if it improves any with the new salt, some have been saying as it a form of carbon dosing it has made it worse.

[Scythanith]

I just did another ~20g with the ™ Bio-active salt so time will tell. But honestly the tank is looking swell. The sand and rocks have cleaned up ~95%. I checked my RODI though and the TDS meter said 89! I need to start checking my system again and sort that issue out. Maybe it was just having a bad day :)

[Myka]

I just did another ~20g with the ™ Bio-active salt so time will tell. But honestly the tank is looking swell. The sand and rocks have cleaned up ~95%. I checked my RODI though and the TDS meter said 89! I need to start checking my system again and sort that issue out. Maybe it was just having a bad day :)

Don't forget to check calibration on the TDS meter while you're at it. Good news the cyano situation is looking up though. What all did you do to help eliminate it?

[Scythanith]

Things I changed were:

Reduced Mitras light output from 60% to 50% and dropped the 4400K & 6500K spectrums down to 30% (from as high as 70% at noon).

Took bio-pellet reactor completely offline.

Increased flow to GFO & GAC (did not add or replace media, just increased flow).

Did ~20g water change (did another 20g last night but that wouldn't count).

Recently dropped the temperature from 26.0 to 25.7 celsius (may not have contributed since it was done recently).

Started feeding less than a full PE Mysis cube, but added cycploeeze to the mix (Mysis always thawed and rinsed before feeding)/

I recently turned the lights back to the original 60% total power output and restored the white channels to normal. We will see if I get a resurgence of algae. Colby had come over about 10 days back and he had a tough time identifying the algae. He said it lied somewhere between cyano and diatoms. Mindy, I will go and calibrate the meter right now and test again :)

Cheers,
Scott

[Scythanith]

I calibrated the TDS meter…. back down to 17 ppm lol!

[Myka]

I calibrated the TDS meter…. back down to 17 ppm lol!

:lol: That's still 17 ppm too high! ;)

[Scythanith]

I know lol. Colby was out of DI resin last couple times I stopped by :)

[Myka]

I know lol. Colby was out of DI resin last couple times I stopped by :)

If I had 17 ppm coming out of the DI I would be replacing the RO membrane. You will burn through DI very fast with that much going into it.

Sent from my Dungeon using mad Ninja Skillz.

[wickedfrags]

with a system that size consider buying in bulk, that is what I did, expensive up front but it lasts and is always there when you want it

I know lol. Colby was out of DI resin last couple times I stopped by :)

[Scythanith]

Crap picture but still a nice red Fungi sp. :)

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-XRzqLzH/0/L/i-XRzqLzH-L.jpg

The space invader is growing well now that it's being fed.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-mdSbc2T/0/L/i-mdSbc2T-L.jpg

We also moved the freshwater tank back into the basement now that the reno is pretty much done :)

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Ww9k8MR/0/L/i-Ww9k8MR-L.jpg

And here it is in context to the big tank :) Please excuse the poor image quality.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-XJwnWFj/0/L/i-XJwnWFj-L.jpg

[reefermadness]

so nice an clean.....you really took the time to do things right and it shows. Glad that space invaders is doing well for you. Watch out for those feeder tentacles at night. !

[Scythanith]

It even puts the tentacles out in the daytime :) I have a seasons greetings monti that I will need to move sooner than later. Unfortunate as it's doing really well where it is.

[hillegom]

Very well put together system, well thought out
An inspiration for me

[Scythanith]

A couple new shots from this evening :) I will post side shots with top shots when possible.

Rasta
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-53xXFPG/0/XL/i-53xXFPG-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-cgqJPdw/0/XL/i-cgqJPdw-XL.jpg

War Coral
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-9NGXkjV/0/XL/i-9NGXkjV-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-MVDtFSK/0/XL/i-MVDtFSK-XL.jpg

Pectina Space Invader (note the left side missing the bright green skirt…. long spine urchin attack).
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-pwfZTxp/0/XL/i-pwfZTxp-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-2V29WDv/0/XL/i-2V29WDv-XL.jpg

Seasons Greetings Monti
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-XzPXWxF/0/XL/i-XzPXWxF-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-sQntrqx/0/XL/i-sQntrqx-XL.jpg

Scolymia (note dark pinch mark top left…. healing from an urchin attack)
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-LbX8H7w/0/XL/i-LbX8H7w-XL.jpg

[Scythanith]

Some random zoo/paly & chalices.

Hornet wannabe's
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-32BMqX6/0/XL/i-32BMqX6-XL.jpg

Capt'n 'Merica's and Tubb's Blues
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-wNxDhhp/0/XL/i-wNxDhhp-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-GrQDs5n/0/XL/i-GrQDs5n-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-SmpR9LT/0/XL/i-SmpR9LT-XL.jpg

I like the green streaming eye on this watermelon.
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-mSpxXsN/0/XL/i-mSpxXsN-XL.jpg

I love the peachy orange/pink eye combo
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-478dPCr/0/XL/i-478dPCr-XL.jpg

Mummy Eye
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-6hNQqHk/0/XL/i-6hNQqHk-XL.jpg

Candy Apple Red's
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-6G6jB63/0/XL/i-6G6jB63-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-nLtQp2M/0/XL/i-nLtQp2M-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-k7KZh4z/0/XL/i-k7KZh4z-XL.jpg

[Scythanith]

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-WPxJqtc/0/XL/i-WPxJqtc-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-QK2LzRC/0/XL/i-QK2LzRC-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-VbtdmzM/0/XL/i-VbtdmzM-XL.jpg

And some SPS.
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-CFMBkVL/0/XL/i-CFMBkVL-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-ph3bQdL/0/XL/i-ph3bQdL-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Bp2dpcG/0/XL/i-Bp2dpcG-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-ttmKFP9/0/XL/i-ttmKFP9-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Fxm9GDk/0/XL/i-Fxm9GDk-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-7fDwg9f/0/XL/i-7fDwg9f-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-rtrX4pM/0/XL/i-rtrX4pM-XL.jpg

[Scythanith]

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-XfGMxVS/0/XL/i-XfGMxVS-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-j9mhzqW/0/XL/i-j9mhzqW-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-gvPdsvw/0/XL/i-gvPdsvw-XL.jpg

[BlueTang<3]

Sweet nice stuff

Is that red plate from bayside ? I see they got one on the website.