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View Full Version : Hot water through my ro unit!


magikof7
01-06-2013, 10:19 PM
One of my kids used the kitchen sink and instead of turning on the cold water turned on the hot. I thought it was off (usually they leave it off) and went out for an hour.
So I come home to a flooded kitchen and a bucket full of hot Ro/Di water.

Do I consider it wrecked and order all new filters and membrane?

11purewater
01-06-2013, 10:27 PM
If you have a cartridge style tap sound like you're getting bleed back from the hot, also you might have destroyed your membrane and DI resin:neutral:how is this plumbed exactly?

magikof7
01-06-2013, 10:30 PM
it is hooked up to the sink he had to turn off the RO unit to use the sink. he turned on the hot and cold then turned the Ro unit back on. but what went into the unit was all hot.

11purewater
01-06-2013, 10:33 PM
To the sink spigot
?or the cold feed?

magikof7
01-06-2013, 10:44 PM
to the sink Spigot. Im thinking If I buy a new unit I'm going to ignore Hubby and hook it upto the cold water line.

11purewater
01-06-2013, 10:47 PM
you should find a cold line and plumb a saddle valve like on your humidifier or a 3/8 to1/4 adaptor if there's flex tubing on the cold feed of that tap.

MMAX
01-06-2013, 10:52 PM
to the sink Spigot. Im thinking If I buy a new unit I'm going to ignore Hubby and hook it upto the cold water line.

That's the way it should be hooked up

11purewater
01-06-2013, 11:00 PM
Yes Ignore the hubby,that's my wife's rule of thumb!thing is She's usually right dammit

gregzz4
01-06-2013, 11:09 PM
I installed one of these valves (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/john-guest-angle-stop-valve.html)on my cold line and am really happy with it
Also, if you don't have one, my unit came with this drain saddle setup (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/drain-saddle-clamp-1-4-push-connect.html)and it works great. Just be sure you install it above the p trap

magikof7
01-06-2013, 11:14 PM
It is difficult to hook up to a line when you live in a small place and are facing some major Renos. It is one of the reasons I have been putting it off, that and hubby argued against it, although he didn't really have a reason why not. lol
Until today it works rather well for me as it is.

lol...Us wives are more clever than we get credit for. :D

11purewater
01-06-2013, 11:16 PM
I installed one of these valves (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/john-guest-angle-stop-valve.html)on my cold line and am really happy with it
Also, if you don't have one, my unit came with this drain saddle setup (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/drain-saddle-clamp-1-4-push-connect.html)and it works great. Just be sure you install it above the p trapThat's the ticket for your feed but if you're running the drain/concentrate line to a drain saddle it need to be air gapped to prevent bacteria from crawling back into your RO system.

magikof7
01-06-2013, 11:17 PM
Thank you Greg I will add those to the order when I place it. I guess I had better get on the group buy list lol.

gregzz4
01-06-2013, 11:20 PM
it need to be air gapped to prevent bacteria from crawling back into your RO system.
Mine's setup on an otherwise unused bathroom sink, but could you please elaborate on this ?

11purewater
01-06-2013, 11:27 PM
Mine's setup on an otherwise unused bathroom sink, but could you please elaborate on this ?By plumbing code it's technically a cross connection.Usage of that drain line doesn't matter since it's still connected to your sewer.On an RO for drinking water you'll find the tap is outfitted with a air gap.

11purewater
01-06-2013, 11:31 PM
An air gap is usually one inch above flood.for instance if your kitchen sink overflows that water never touches the spigot.

11purewater
01-06-2013, 11:32 PM
Sorry to highjack your thread:biggrin:

gregzz4
01-06-2013, 11:48 PM
I think I follow
I gather you meant that the height of the hose in the saddle should be at or higher than the crown before the trap arm ? Right ?

I initially thought you were talking about how to put the hose into the saddle

Now you've got me thinking about having the RO waste line loop up above the saddle as I do rinse frozen food in this sink

gregzz4
01-06-2013, 11:50 PM
Sorry to highjack your thread:biggrin:
I don't think we're hijacking as the OP is considering installing what we are talking about :wink:, and you already answered her initial question

11purewater
01-06-2013, 11:52 PM
Nope there actually need to be a break in the drain line one inch above the sink and then falls into the ABS drain by gravity.

gregzz4
01-06-2013, 11:56 PM
Oh, I get ya now

You'd think RO suppliers would include an air gap assembly in their kits

11purewater
01-07-2013, 12:03 AM
I've only seen the airgap criteria on a drinking water unit but the system is the same so why they wouldn't tell you that,:neutral: at least from a contamination point of view is beyond me

11purewater
01-07-2013, 12:27 AM
as long as the drain line water is "falling" into the drain you're ok. sink ,floor drain etc.min 1 inch.

magikof7
01-07-2013, 01:13 AM
I don't feel like you hijacked the thread at all. This all helps. If I don't do it with a new unit while living here I will be putting it to use when we move. (hopefully by summertime)

11purewater
01-07-2013, 01:35 AM
If you need help or plumbing parts let me know,I Install these things almost daily:biggrin:

Rogue951
01-07-2013, 04:53 AM
Get a saddle valve with a valve on it. It doesn't look like that one from BRS has a on/off valve on it.
Even if you have a ball valve to shut off to the RO unit, if something happens u want to be able to shut the source off.
Also don't tighten the saddle valve too much. I crimped my pipe a bit cause i couldn't see it was squeezing so hard and I have a bad habit of over torquing things.




EDIT: Ignore the first 2 lines lol. didn't read that was a DRAIN saddle valve. was wondering how it pierced the pipe.