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Mother Reefer
05-06-2004, 07:40 PM
Is there a benefit to the CSL Smartlite Retro w/Smartlamp 32watt $99.99 when a 65watt is $119.99. For the extra $20 isn't it worth double the watts?
Is that a good price for the units?

Coffeeman
05-06-2004, 08:07 PM
Not really, J&L has the 65 watt strip for $79.00 plus $10.00 for the legs if you need them.King Ed also has very good prices on those lights too,I bought a 32 watt smarlight bulb from king ed for $29.00 and bought a ballast from Albright lighting,then made my own retro light.

Mother Reefer
05-06-2004, 08:14 PM
I just looked at the online prices and they are no where near that cheap, maybe this is an in-store price?

Coffeeman
05-08-2004, 05:32 PM
http://www.jlaquatics.com/cgi-bin/shopping/jalstore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=pc-al24065

Coffeeman
05-08-2004, 05:33 PM
One thing I have noticed about these lights is that the bulbs seem to lose intensity very fast.After a few weeks the 10k side appears yellow.

Bob I
05-08-2004, 06:08 PM
One thing I have noticed about these lights is that the bulbs seem to lose intensity very fast.After a few weeks the 10k side appears yellow.

What you observed is certainly true. Although a few weeks is a bit of an overstatement. I have recently measured my 96W tube with my Luxmeter, and found that it had lost 50% of its intensity in about eight months. So unless you really overkill from the start, you probably will have to look at replacing bulbs every eight months. :sad:

Mother Reefer
05-09-2004, 03:30 AM
Ah!! Is it this particular bulb that has the problem or is it the ballast that runs them out?

Is there a comparable system or a better bulb (depending on where exactly the problem is) that I should be looking
at?

ps. Thanks for all the input guys :)

StirCrazy
05-09-2004, 05:36 AM
What you observed is certainly true. Although a few weeks is a bit of an overstatement. I have recently measured my 96W tube with my Luxmeter, and found that it had lost 50% of its intensity in about eight months. So unless you really overkill from the start, you probably will have to look at replacing bulbs every eight months. :sad:

In some ways I am surprised that it was that much of a lost but in others I would expect it to be that high. Also another wonderful tidbit I found out about PC is that as they get older they are susceptible to use more power and at the end of there life they can actually draw up to 5X there original current, so this might be another thing for those with PC bulbs to monitor as it could cause overheating of the bulb.

Steve

Mother Reefer
05-09-2004, 02:16 PM
I've never used PC lighting before and this bulb deterioration is making me think. If I have to replace the bulbs 2x/yr it really isn't a big problem but at replacing those bulbs 2x/yr then I'm spending about the same as what a MH bulb would go for and that would last me a yr.

I don't want to spend a ton on a MH ballast (& they all seem quite expensive) so I guess I'll look at a DIY MH ballast or going with PC and changing them 2x/yr :rolleyes:

Has anyone made a DIY MH ballast?Or a more efficient/economical lighting idea?

StirCrazy
05-09-2004, 03:21 PM
I've never used PC lighting before and this bulb deterioration is making me think. If I have to replace the bulbs 2x/yr it really isn't a big problem but at replacing those bulbs 2x/yr then I'm spending about the same as what a MH bulb would go for and that would last me a yr.

I don't want to spend a ton on a MH ballast (& they all seem quite expensive) so I guess I'll look at a DIY MH ballast or going with PC and changing them 2x/yr :rolleyes:

Has anyone made a DIY MH ballast?Or a more efficient/economical lighting idea?

I think 2x a year would be excessive but once a year would be a good schedual. don't forget Bob is measuring one set of bulbs so the average could be a bit better.

Steve

StirCrazy
05-09-2004, 03:27 PM
the expensive part of MH is the ballasts. if you are looking at normal 250 watt you can get cheaper bulbs from SA and buy ballast for about 60 to 80 bucks each. you will then have to build a box and such so add another 20 to 40 on top for wires sockets ect...

if you look at J&L a dual 250 watt PFO ballast is only 219.00. your not going to save to much doing it your self.. maybe 40 bucks and the home made one won't look as nice. if you want to go HQI then the price goes up to 309.00. I can tell you unless you are a lighting business you can't buy the ballasts for under 140 ea so for the average person this is a good deal from J&L.


Steve

Mother Reefer
05-09-2004, 04:28 PM
[/quote]

I think 2x a year would be excessive but once a year would be a good schedual. don't forget Bob is measuring one set of bulbs so the average could be a bit better.

Steve[/quote]

Thanks, maybe I will go with the PC and change them slightly earlier than the year mark in that case.

Thx guys :)

Coffeeman
05-09-2004, 05:41 PM
I used a workhorse 2 ballast on a 32 watt smartlight and it still faded quite fast.I recently purchased a 250 watt magnetic ballast from albright for around $59.00.It was probe start but if fired the SA bulb no problem.

Bob I
05-09-2004, 07:45 PM
I think 2x a year would be excessive but once a year would be a good schedual. don't forget Bob is measuring one set of bulbs so the average could be a bit better.

Steve

Thanks, maybe I will go with the PC and change them slightly earlier than the year mark in that case.

Thx guys :)

It would also depend on the light demands of your critters, and also if you are running more than one bulb. On a two lamp system, I am sure you could squeeze out a year by changing one bulb at a time. I put my bulb back in, and changed the actinic to one that was only slightly used. I also removed the glass cover to maximise the amount of light the tank receives. I will now try for a one year change out target. :rolleyes:

Mother Reefer
05-09-2004, 10:14 PM
I don't plan on having any high lighting required corals, just shrooms, leathers, zoos, gsp's & xenias. My tank is 12h x 24L x 12.5w (15gal), with a 1" sandbed, the lights won't be that far from the corals.

There is a very nice DIY canopy at nano-reef but I'm not sure if I want to make one (because that would lead to the problem of how to get in there to clean/feed) or just buy the mounting legs and leave the top open. Any suggestions on this?

I'm only planning on 1x65w and the only fish I'd like to put in there is a GSM :)

I like Beverly's setup with the A/C, heater in and foam. The only thing I'm contemplating is whether to get a mini or a 300 and make it into a small refuge>?

I'll see if I can control things with just waterchanges and if I have a problem I'll get that Coralife mini-skimmer for it, we'll see how things turn out but I'm pretty sure the waterchanges should do me fine.

Bob I
05-09-2004, 10:38 PM
I don't plan on having any high lighting required corals, just shrooms, leathers, zoos, gsp's & xenias. My tank is 12h x 24L x 12.5w (15gal), with a 1" sandbed, the lights won't be that far from the corals.

There is a very nice DIY canopy at nano-reef but I'm not sure if I want to make one (because that would lead to the problem of how to get in there to clean/feed) or just buy the mounting legs and leave the top open. Any suggestions on this?

You should be fine. I use the 2X65W Coralife Aqualight on a 15. I just use the 10000K bulb, and I use the legs, and a sliding glass cover.

I'm only planning on 1x65w and the only fish I'd like to put in there is a GSM :)

I like Beverly's setup with the A/C, heater in and foam. The only thing I'm contemplating is whether to get a mini or a 300 and make it into a small refuge>?

You could get serious and use a AC 500. There are a number of people who have posted recently that do that very thing.

I'll see if I can control things with just waterchanges and if I have a problem I'll get that Coralife mini-skimmer for it, we'll see how things turn out but I'm pretty sure the waterchanges should do me fine.[

That sounds just fine.

Mother Reefer
05-10-2004, 09:28 PM
Thanks to everyone for all the input :)