New Jarduino build gets started

[daplatapus]

Well, I finally broke down and have ordered most of the parts to build my own Arduino based controller based on the Jarduino. For starters this will control my DIY LED build, heaters, and skimmer and fuge lights. If I can get a few other relay's figured out I'll also include main return pump etc.
Also to dim my LED's I'm going to try and get a hold of those Meanwell LDD1000H drivers. If anyone knows where I can source some, can you please let me know? thanks.
Pics will come as I get the parts in the mail. So far have $112 invested :)

[Chatouille]

I ordered most everything too.... just waiting on everything to show.

The LDD-1000H's are hard to come by right now. Mouser has them in stock, but at twice the cost. The couple of other places I found either don't ship to Canada, or they only use UPS ($$$). Try "Octopart" it's great when trying to find electronic parts. I picked up 4 of the 600's where I got my power supply, but haven't had luck getting the 700's or 1000's yet. (out of stock) If you find a place.... let me know.

I also have a couple of the PCB's coming that hold 4 of the LDD's.

[daplatapus]

Sweet. Might be good to have someone to bounce ideas off of. I'm trying to get a hold of 4 of those boards too from a guy who has extra on RC.
I'm looking at getting some of those drivers from someplace I can't mention here. PM me if you need some and I can see if we can double up on an order if they're available.

[Chatouille]

Definitely sounds good.... I should have most of my things in the next week or two. Haven't decided if I want to go PWM for the fans or just use relays yet.

Don't know if you knew or not... but Modular LED had a sale on heatsinks.

[daplatapus]

I actually saw that about 2 hours after I ordered my stuff from somewhere else. Du'oh!

[ScubaSteve]

Sweet. Might be good to have someone to bounce ideas off of. I'm trying to get a hold of 4 of those boards too from a guy who has extra on RC.
I'm looking at getting some of those drivers from someplace I can't mention here. PM me if you need some and I can see if we can double up on an order if they're available.

Definitely interested in 4 drivers. PM'd you!

[daplatapus]

Tried PM'ing you back but your box is full :)

[ScubaSteve]

Tried PM'ing you back but your box is full :)

Ya, seems I was popular today:razz: Should be clear now!

[daplatapus]

WoW! Ordered a bunch of Prototyping boards for my Arduino on the 24th and they just got delivered. Not bad since I ordered them from China! Take that Canada post :D

[Lampshade]

I've built my whole controller off the arduino. right now i have lights(with spectrum recording), skimmer, pump, heaters, fans, PH, temp, CO2 and a few others. If you want/need any info let me know.The Jarduino is pretty good out of the box, if it was available when i started i would have just gone with it.

One thing i like is my datalogging with cosm. pretty easy to add the client library to the arduino and start logging if you have the network card for the arduino. Saved my butt a few ties being able to look back and see that my tank was overheating in the summer at mid day. Pretty graphs are nice.

[daplatapus]

Hmmm, sounds like a sweet system. If you're open to the idea, I might have to get you to send me some code for some of those features :)

Well, I was able to purchase 4 - 4 LDD driver PCB boards and they're on their way. :D Now I just have to source the actual drivers, lol. Everyone seems to be out of stock.

[Maverick00]

:popcorn: cant wait for pics!

[daplatapus]

Well, probably not very exciting but...

These are the proto boards I picked up. For $2/ea and free shipping I was expecting really cheap stuff, but these are as good as the one I got with my Arduino Uno for experimenting with.

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2012-12-29212200_zpsbddbb49b.jpg

And this is the Arduino that I got from Adafruit and I'm slowly, so very slowly, learning programming for it. :)

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2012-12-29212214_zpsdd0cca40.jpg


More pics as stuff comes in.

[daplatapus]

I may have found a good contact for these MEanWell LDD-XXXX-H drivers. Please PM me again if you still need any of them. I'm thinking of ordering a dozen or so of the 1000's, 700's, 600's and 500's. I'll need a bunch so not sure what will be left over, but if you'r thinking of it, let me know.

Oh and I was able to get a hold of these little babies that will get soldered into the 4 LDD driver boards I'm getting so you can just plug the drivers in and out if you need/want to change them out :)

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/LDDholders8_zps28ff2b45.jpg

[Chatouille]

Looking good.... I just got my arduino and TFT screen on Friday from China, unfortunately they sent me the wrong ardunio board. So still trying to sort that with them. Will probably be easier, and take less time to just order another board from someone else.

Also received my heatsink from Modular LED last week... just have to take in down and get it cut to size I need.

[pinhead]

Are you trying to mount the drivers on the Protoboard?

Having your own boards made up may be easier. The eagle files are publicly available.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h22/pinhead1140/Revised5upLDD-HDriver_zpsaf68b747.png

It is very easy to send out to get your boards made up. My CAT4101 drivers only cost 99cents a piece.

If you go this route, all you have to do is connect your power supply and the PWM signals from your Arduino. It is much easier to troubleshoot separate modules than trying to put everything in one package.

[ScubaSteve]

Are you trying to mount the drivers on the Protoboard?

Having your own boards made up may be easier. The eagle files are publicly available.

It is very easy to send out to get your boards made up. My CAT4101 drivers only cost 99cents a piece.

If you go this route, all you have to do is connect your power supply and the PWM signals from your Arduino. It is much easier to troubleshoot separate modules than trying to put everything in one package.

Where do you get your PCBs made for that price?

[pinhead]

Iteadstudio. They have regular sales on. I am really happy with the quality.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h22/pinhead1140/_IGP5376_zps4ccbd5d8.jpg

The meanwell driver boards would be twice the size of the CAT4101 so they would be about $2 a board. There are also files out there for other boards with varying numbers of the meanwell drivers.

Not to hijack the thread, but I am changing the direction I am going with my DIY LEDs because I won a Vertex Illuminex fixture in the VAHS raffle. I have a number of driver boards and components and I am also thinking of getting rid of my 81 LED DIY 4 foot fixture that was run for only 10 hours total. Plug and play.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h22/pinhead1140/_IGP5381_zps85e09455.jpg

[daplatapus]

Are you trying to mount the drivers on the Protoboard?



Lol, I will be if I can ever get my hands on some drivers, haha. Yeah, I saw all those drawings being open source on RC, but I had already gotten a hold of a guy there and he sent me some of the 4 driver boards. They're still in the snail mail along with almost all my other parts and pieces.

Nice going with winning a fixture, totally cool! But alas, no winning for me. :( I'm really looking forward to this build though. Something to be said about being able to say you built something yourself. Hopefully it works :)

[daplatapus]

Well got some parts in today. My TFT LCD touch screen and the RTC MEGA shield.

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-01-08150131_zps5d969cbc.jpg

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-01-08150118_zpsce7c030e.jpg

[Skimmerking]

ah dude that is so easy solder here and there touch some of the jiggy here and some of the jiggy there and pouf you have smoke. lol

seriously well done man I wouoldnt know where to start.

[daplatapus]

LOL, I'm not sure I do either, haha, but I'm figuring it out :D

And you're right, with a good soldering iron, it is very easy to solder these boards up. This is how the Real Time Clock and ITDB02 MEGA shield comes comes:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-01-08190823_zps5fcf871b.jpg

and this is what it looks like after about 3 hours of soldering:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-01-08211903_zps277fa233.jpg

Actually it wouldn't have taken 3 hours except, see that tiny little chip to the left of the teeny little silver cylinder? I soldered it on backwards and had to unsolder it (much more difficult than it sounds) clean up all the solder pads and re-do it. I actually don't know if there is a right way or wrong way to put it on, but there is a teeny weeny little dimple on one corner and one of the photo's I found on the net of another guy who built the same thing had the dimple in the opposite corner that I did. Logically I just assumed I was the one between us that got it wrong :)

And the back:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-01-08211917_zps71650cb8.jpg

[ScubaSteve]

Looks pretty pro, Dom! How much fun did you have bending all those resistors :lol: And yes, there is a right way and a wrong way to solder on that chip. It's lessons like these that teach you how valuable braided copper solder wick is. It's like an eraser for soldering :razz:

[daplatapus]

Hmmm, braided copper solder wick, good to know. I had a devil of a time trying to get that sucker off there. I kept trying to tell myself, "well at least you know your soldering is good!" :D
Do you just use any stranded copper wire (I'm assuming prepped with flux) or is there a specific product you get? I do have a desoldering pump, but go figure, I only remembered it after I'd finished.

[ScubaSteve]

Hmmm, braided copper solder wick, good to know. I had a devil of a time trying to get that sucker off there. I kept trying to tell myself, "well at least you know your soldering is good!" :D
Do you just use any stranded copper wire (I'm assuming prepped with flux) or is there a specific product you get? I do have a desoldering pump, but go figure, I only remembered it after I'd finished.

Looks like this:

http://www.photonage.com.au/images/images/prod/T/T1220.gif

It's also called desoldering braid. Desoldering pumps work kinda "meh". The braid works like a sponge and sucks it up real quick. It's way less cumbersome and fussy than than the pumps. The day I discovered this stuff I tossed my desoldering pump in the bin (actually it was first disassembled for useful parts, then binned:razz:).

[gregzz4]

The solder wick comes on a roll
It looks similar to braided ground straps on older cars
Very handy to have on hand, but I've always got by with a solder pump

Nice work so far

Edit: I'm too slow :smile:

[daplatapus]

Sweet thanks guys. I'll see if Lordco or The source has some kicking around here for next time, because I'm sure there will be a next time.

[gregzz4]

The Source Pacific Rim Center shows 2 in stock :smile:

[daplatapus]

Hey, thanks Greg! I haven't been up there yet, but now I definitely have more motivation :)
I got some more goodies in the mail today. A ribbon cable for the LCD screen. I want to mount it in the hood so I don't have to open the cabinet door to see the screen.

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/ribboncable_zps0cb5f5cc.jpg


And the 4 driver LDD mounting boards:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/LDDdriverborads_zpsd235aa8e.jpg


And thanks to Chatouille, I now realize I ordered the wrong PCB board terminals for the boards and I'll have to buy 3.5mm pitch blocks rather than the 2.45mm I have coming. Du'oh!
Good thing I only paid $1.5 for ten and free shipping. :D

[ScubaSteve]

Hey, thanks Greg! I haven't been up there yet, but now I definitely have more motivation :)
I got some more goodies in the mail today. A ribbon cable for the LCD screen. I want to mount it in the hood so I don't have to open the cabinet door to see the screen.

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/ribboncable_zps0cb5f5cc.jpg


And the 4 driver LDD mounting boards:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/LDDdriverborads_zpsd235aa8e.jpg.

And thanks to Chatouille, I now realize I ordered the wrong PCB board terminals for the boards and I'll have to buy 3.5mm pitch blocks rather than the 2.45mm I have coming. Du'oh!
Good thing I only paid $1.5 for ten and free shipping. :D

Hey Dom,

Which of the RC guys did you get your boards from? I'm thinking I might try to grab one as well. Make sure you connect the PWM signals to ground with 10K pull down resistors.

I'm excited to see your build!

[Chatouille]

Do you mean to use the pull down resistor in case of power loss to the controller? (so that the LED’s don’t go to full power?) From what I’ve read, if you remove power to the arduino, the PWM output is already held low, and the lights will not come on. It would be a great safeguard if the physical connection is lost though, and very easy to add to the LDD boards.

Chris

[ScubaSteve]

Do you mean to use the pull down resistor in case of power loss to the controller? (so that the LED’s don’t go to full power?) From what I’ve read, if you remove power to the arduino, the PWM output is already held low, and the lights will not come on. It would be a great safeguard if the physical connection is lost though, and very easy to add to the LDD boards.

Chris

Yes, in case if the physical connection is lost (all it takes is one loose connection). For the sake of engineering rigor and user experience, when dealing with logic or PWM values you should always use pull-up/-down resistors so that devices default to a desired state when they're unplugged. It's kinda silly for the lights to turn on 100% if you need to unplug your controller to do something, right? Imagine the amount of online bitching we'd hear if Radions did that:razz:

If the Arduino does lose power, the PWM pin should also go to ground because the -ve/ground of the Arduino is connected to the -ve of the driver, but there is also the possibility of the PWM pin of the Arduino just floating. The pull down resistors are an added safeguard in that situation as well.

[Chatouille]

Just never really thought of it like that since I planned to house controller/LDD’s within the LED pendant, so accidental disconnection shouldn’t be an issue. It is a good idea though, and something I will add.

Man it will be nice to get everything in, and get started on this project. I think I’ve changed my plans a couple of dozen times already.

[ScubaSteve]

Man it will be nice to get everything in, and get started on this project. I think I’ve changed my plans a couple of dozen times already.

Tell me about it. I almost just want to get my build done so I can get it it of my head! Hopefully all my parts will be here by next weekend so I can finish it off.

[Chatouille]

lol.... I have most everything from "plan 1, 2, & 3", too bad I din't stick with any of those. Did you find anyone on RC for a spare LDD board? I picked up an extra one when I got mine, so if you're stuck, shoot me a pm.

Chris

[daplatapus]

Ya, I'm on version "G' or "H" or something, I've lost count. When I get everything I ordered I bet I won't use some stuff and need more of others.
I thought you could order these boards straight from ITead Studio but I couldn't find them on there.
Have you decided on what you wanted to do with those drivers, ScubaSteve?

[ScubaSteve]

Ya, I'm on version "G' or "H" or something, I've lost count. When I get everything I ordered I bet I won't use some stuff and need more of others.
I thought you could order these boards straight from ITead Studio but I couldn't find them on there.
Have you decided on what you wanted to do with those drivers, ScubaSteve?

Chatouille has an extra board that I'm gong to grab from him. I'm going to add 10K resistor between the PWM inputs and ground for added safety.

I'm going to put an order through Mouser tomorrow once I make sure that I've thought of everything.

[Chatouille]

You have to purchase the PCB prototying service from Itead then send them the gerbers.

[Chatouille]

If you order the phoenix terminals, make sure you get the right part #, or check the foot print out before buying them. (ask me how I know :sad: )

[daplatapus]

Well, I got a wack load of stuff yesterday

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-01-15063741_zpsee98e789.jpg

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-01-15064013_zps6caff948.jpg

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-01-15064045_zps05d75c0a.jpg

My main Arduino board, 3 temp sensors, a couple different adjustable resistors, screw terminals (the wrong ones, as it turns out), larger wiring terminals I'm going to use these to link my 3 fixtures, and some transistors.

Pretty soon I'm not gonna have much excuse not to start building this :D

[Chatouille]

I need to make some progress on mine too...

I had my heatsink cut to size yesterday, now I have to figure out how I want to do my pendant enclosure. Still waiting on a bunch of small stuff get here so I can do the circuits for temp, and PWM fan.

[Chatouille]

Well... to keep costs down, I'm going to try to make a pendant out of left over acrylic I have from when I built my tank years ago. Here's the faceplate I came up with to hold the remote TFT display for Jarduino. Sorry for the crappy pic's... just snapped them quick with my phone.

http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/571/img2013012300110.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/703/img2013012300121.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/838/img2013012300119.jpg

Not as nice as something CNC'd... but it'll work. I'll try to cut the other pieces this weekend, but have to wait on some syringes to apply the weld-on 4 to arrive from ebay. (Pharmacist looked at me like I had 3 heads when I tried get some locally)

Chris

[ScubaSteve]

Well... to keep costs down, I'm going to try to make a pendant out of left over acrylic I have from when I built my tank years ago. Here's the faceplate I came up with to hold the remote TFT display for Jarduino. Sorry for the crappy pic's... just snapped them quick with my phone.

Not as nice as something CNC'd... but it'll work. I'll try to cut the other pieces this weekend, but have to wait on some syringes to apply the weld-on 4 to arrive from ebay. (Pharmacist looked at me like I had 3 heads when I tried get some locally)

Chris

Nice job. Had me convinced that you CNC'd it :razz: How did you do it?

If I can rally the energy tonight I'm gonna CNC my enclosure for my Typhon controller. It's been a REALLY exhausting week, so that's a big maybe... but we'll see :mrgreen:

[Chatouille]

Just used a router... I built the table that you can partially see in the background when I made my tank. (8 years ago)

The piece came out decent.... the TFT display is flush with the back of the 3/8" thick acrylic, will router a hole in the side panel of the pendant for the ribbon cable to connect. Then I'll just use 2 small cap screws to secure the faceplate to the pendant side panel. I wish I had black acrylic to use instead, but that just isn't in the cards right now. (will probably use krylon fusion paint)

Hopefully it will all come together ok.

Chris

[Chatouille]

Don't forget to post pic's when you get it done... I'm sure lots of people will be interested in what you come up with for the typhon, especially for the menu buttons. I wanted to build that controller, but could never just find anyone that had a spare PCB.

[daplatapus]

Nice work Chris. I was thinking of doing something similar when it came time to do it. More of my parts are slowly trickling in. I tried uploading the 1.1 version sketch on to my Arduino and I'm having issues. First of all I found out the Arduino environment has to be tweaked a bit so it can handle such a large file transfer. Jamie provided a tweaked version with the download, but it's not Mac compatible. Du'oh!
So I commandeered my wife's laptop and finally got everything loaded there. What a pain. Funny how Windows illiterate you get when you work with a Mac for a while.
Anyway, got everything running on the laptop, the sketch verify's good and load's onto the Arduino fine with no error's but my TFT screen is blank. Hmmmm....
The screen powers up fine it's just blank. So I'm not sure if I have a slightly different version of screen than he used in his programming and I need to change something in the code or what.
That's where I'm at....

[daplatapus]

So, I have a parts question maybe you guys can help me with. I'm trying to be able to stack multiple proto boards on top of one another. I figure I'll need 2 boards between the main Arduino and the ITDB02 Mega shield that runs the TFT screen. I can find the stackable 8 pin female headers with the long legs to be able to do most of it, but is there such a thing as a 40 pin female header with the long legs? Or do I have to lego the 8pin's together to do it?

[Chatouille]

Hmmm.... I loaded up ver 1.1 also to play with a week ago or so, I did make a change in the sketch before loading though. I changed line 92 to this....


TDB02 myGLCD(38,39,40,41,ITDB32S); //May need to add "ITDB32S" depending on LCD controller
ITDB02_Touch myTouch(6,5,4,3,2);


I didn't change anythin on line 93, but included it incase for whatever reason yours was different. I am using a TFT from sainsmart, not itead's, but it uses the same driver... I wish I would have found the reports about the sainsmart TFT before I bought mine, but so far so good.

Just a note... you can't go off of the line #'s in Jamies manual for ver 1.1, as it was written for 1.2, and they're different.

HTH
Chris

[Chatouille]

The ones for the arduino are 36 pin... it changes over to 40 pin on the shield for the TFT. Itead does sell the stackable header kits for the mega. I have some on order... should have them here any day.

[daplatapus]

The ones for the arduino are 36 pin... it changes over to 40 pin on the shield for the TFT. Itead does sell the stackable header kits for the mega. I have some on order... should have them here any day.
Yeah, you're totally right! I never noticed. I have a 40 pin header on the ITDB02 mega shield for the TFT screen and didn't even check the Arduino.
Thanks. I'll have to check for the stacking header for it tonight and see if that code change works for me.

Dom

[ScubaSteve]

Don't forget to post pic's when you get it done... I'm sure lots of people will be interested in what you come up with for the typhon, especially for the menu buttons. I wanted to build that controller, but could never just find anyone that had a spare PCB.

I machined the slot for the controller last night and I'll try to finish off the control box tonight or Sunday. I think I might try to 3D print myself some button extensions :mrgreen:. I've been taking pics along the way, so when I get time I'll put together a build thread.

[Chatouille]

Wow... a bunch of typo's in my last post. Now I have to put a disclaimer in for my sig. :redface:

Dom-
If you aren't able to find any headers, I'll have an extra. Tracking shows that my package is finally (after 3 weeks) in Canada, so should have it early next week. You can also use the 8 pin female stackable headers, and lego it like you said if you have enough extra.

lol... If I had a 3d printer and a CNC in my house, I'd NEVER leave it, PLUS I'd finally have a reason to learn how to use solidworks more in-depth. Looking forward to the pic's.

Chris

[Chatouille]

new small bump in the road... does anyone know of an online source for weld-on 4, or small quantites of methylene cholride & glacial acetic acid so I can make my own? Just read that weld-on/methylene chloride has a shelf life of 2 years. None of the glass shops here were much help, and not sure I want to chance using my 8 year old stuff.

[daplatapus]

Woohoo! Progress. After several days of fiddling and fooling around with some code issues I finally got my Arduino running the code. Turns out the V1.1 code isn't Mac compatible and I've been trying to do this on my computer. Had to move over to the wife's. Here's the board up and running:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/arduinobaordrunning_zps0df57eae.jpg

and a close up of the screen shot:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/screenshot_zps8d20f4fd.jpg

I'm able to navigate through everything, set the date and time. I still need to get me some tall header's to be able to stack multiple prototyping boards so I can wire up my temperature sensors and future Ph sensors as well.
My LDD drivers are shipping on the 29th not the 26th like I thought. I'll also be getting my HLG drivers for the XM-L LED's.
I'm excited!.

[daplatapus]

LDD's and HLG driver officially are en-route via DHL. Good thing as I hear a few other suppliers who had gotten shipments have already sold out again and the eta on next shipment is Arpil

[ScubaSteve]

Shot in the dark but... Did you order any extra LDDs? Long story short, I need three more. I'm going to be putting a mouser order through but thought I'd ask!

[daplatapus]

I did get a couple extra's, what size did ya need?

[daplatapus]

WooHoo! I got my LDD drivers today and my HLG drivers as well. Man, I didn't think these LDD's were quite that small.
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/HLGdriver_zps94207cd4.jpg

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/1000package_zps766243c2.jpg

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/700package_zpsd2782b01.jpg

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/LDD1000_zpsef7859b8.jpg

Hey Chis (Chatouille) PM me your details and I'll send you those drivers you needed.

[ScubaSteve]

Ha! And I didn't think that HLG would be so big! It's huge!

[daplatapus]

Haha, yeah, it's gonna take up some space, especially considering I'll have 3 of these 42V's and a 36V.
Well, I couldn't resist doing something since I'm home sick with the flu today. I get bored pretty quick, lol.
I soldered up one of my boards with the mounting clips for the LDD's and everything looks good.
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/LDD1000solderedboard_zps6850d288.jpg

I'm wanting to steal a bit of power from my power supply units so I got some HRD DC converters. But they come stock with set resistors and I want to switch them out for variable ones so I can adjust the voltage I need depending what I want to power up. For instance my Arduino , my cooling fans, etc.
So here's the converter I have:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/DCDCtransformer_zpse46d37c4.jpg

and the back:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/DCDCback_zps63a71149.jpg

and the variable resistor I'd like to use:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/variableresistor_zpsddd45ac4.jpg

Any insights as to how to wire the variable resistor is greatly appreciated. :)

[ScubaSteve]

That's pretty straight forward. It's basically the same ideas as the LM2725-ADJ that I'll be using the step down from 24 to 12 V all bundled with an inductor into a nice little package. Basically by varying the value of the two resistors you can change the output voltage, mainly the resistor connecting pin 6 and pin 7. That said both resistors play a role. I tried looking up the datasheet for that converter and it is fantastically ****ty (from a Chinese manufacturer - nuff said). They have an equation for calculating the output voltage based on the resistor values but it seems to be on crack. I'll run through the math and see if I can clean it up and make some sense of for you, then give you a graph of the resistor values versus output voltage.

[daplatapus]

Hmmm, I kinda figured it wasn't great. Here's the unit I bought on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HRD-Series-Converter-DC-24v-36v-48v-step-down-to-12v-3A-/250850583241?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a67dc22c9

Not sure if that gives you any more info than you had already.

[ScubaSteve]

Hmmm, I kinda figured it wasn't great. Here's the unit I bought on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HRD-Series-Converter-DC-24v-36v-48v-step-down-to-12v-3A-/250850583241?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a67dc22c9

Not sure if that gives you any more info than you had already.

Ya, I know which part it is. The converter itself is actually really good... just the data sheet explaining it sucks. I'll see what I can dig up. I'll have something for you tonight.

[Chatouille]

Well, I couldn't resist doing something since I'm home sick with the flu today. I get bored pretty quick, lol.

lol... I'm sure the package of goodies made the decision to stay home easier. :mrgreen:

Let me know how those HRD's work out, and how warm it gets. ( I Ended up going with a LM2576HV instead )

When you get a chance, pm me so I can get payment out to you.

[daplatapus]

I finally got to sending them your way today. And PM'd ya with the specifics.

[Chatouille]

Not much progress, plan to solder up my protoboard tonight or tomorrow. Here is what I made for the enclosure, there's a groove an inch below the heatsink that I can slide in a splash guard. I also made the top with a 120mm PWM controlled fan.

http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/42/img2013021600134.jpghttp://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/194/img2013021600132.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/809/img2013021600131.jpg

(Almost hate to paint it)

Come on Dom..... let's see some pic's!

[daplatapus]

Sweet looking enclosure!!! That's going to look awesome!
Lol, I've been so sick with this crappy flu and busy at work I haven't done a thing. Sounds like my stacking headers hit Vancouver though and will be shipped to me shortly (thanks to ScubaSteve), so I should be able to get going on that again and get some of my sensors and fans wired up to some proto boards.

[byee]

Can anyone tell me where I can find the schematics and gerber file for the pcb?

Thanks in advance.

:-)

[daplatapus]

Check out RC. In the DIY forum, look for the thread: Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino. There's a couple files there, but I know one is on post #936.

Hope that helps

[reefme]

Planning to use mosfet, but Meanwell LDD driver is better. Can some one show me how to wire this? Does it requires any resistors?

[daplatapus]

I haven't looked into mofset at all, so sorry, can't help ya. Maybe ScubaSteve or Chatouille can help. Any reason why you don't want to go LDD?

[reefme]

I haven't looked into mofset at all, so sorry, can't help ya. Maybe ScubaSteve or Chatouille can help. Any reason why you don't want to go LDD?

I do, but want to know how to wire them before before I order LDD drivers.

[daplatapus]

Easiest way is to get a hold of a couple PCB boards like the ones I showed earlier in the thread.
Here's a quick sketch of how they're wired up from a search I did. I did not make this and I haven't wired mine up yet so proceed with a bit of caution. The LED's on the sketch are backwards, but you get the idea. I know Scubasteve has some wired up and running, maybe he'll chime in here later. Depending on how many LDD's you'd need, I do have a few spare you an get off me for what I paid for them.

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/Pull-downresistor_zps47efa63a.png

[reefme]

Thanks,

I better use UNO to test it out instead of MEGA. Is the driver and Arduino share the same ground?

[daplatapus]

I believe so.

[reefme]

Do have extra LDD-H boards for sell? Or you can tell me where to get them?

[ScubaSteve]

Planning to use mosfet, but Meanwell LDD driver is better. Can some one show me how to wire this? Does it requires any resistors?

The mosfet approach is a lot more difficult to implement, even if you know what you are doing. The LDDs work basically in the same way but have a much more efficient switching scheme and run a lot cooler (not to mention added thermal and overcurrent protection). The schematic Dom showed you is correct and, yes, the LEDs are backwards. I was in a rush when I drew that up:redface:. The resistor connecting the PWM pin is optional but is there to cause the fixture to fail off in case the driver becomes disconnected from the controller. Without this it fails to 100% on. Not the end of the the world, but the pull-down resistor is more rigorous in terms of design.

Vin-, the ground/negative of the controller and the ground of the power supply are all connected together. If not, you get funny behaviors like the LEDs operating at 50% max output and fried drivers. Don't ask how is figured this out.

[reefme]

Thanks,

Will give these drivers a try. Do you know where is the cheapest.
Looking at 10 of the 1A and 10 of the .7A.

[daplatapus]

Thanks, scubasteve! I actually didn't know that was you that had posted that diagram, lol. I wish people kept the same user names from forum to forum :D

Reefme:
Sorry I don't have any boards. I actually bought mine off of a guy on RC who had extra. You might try there.
I'll PM you when I find the info on where I got my LDD's from, pretty much the cheapest I've found.

[Chatouille]

How’s your project been coming Dom?

Still not done here, it’s been hard to find the time to finish this project.

Anyways…. here’s where I am so far.

http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/546/img3223o.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/large/12/img3227x.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/820/img3225y.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/138/img3228m.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/22/img3231gj.jpg

Still have a few tweaks to do.... might order a few more LED's, update Jarduino to 1.2, and work on a cable mount.

[daplatapus]

I haven't worked on my unit at all. Work's been crazy and I was building a simpler fixture for a friend which I finally finished this week end. Well, not totally finished, looking for a better way to make the connection from the dim4 to the 2 fixtures.
I finally got the rest of my drivers and got a few extra LDD700's and 1000's that were back ordered. I think I'm going to start figuring out the temp sensors and alerts with the Jarduino on my existing tank and leave the lighting until I get my stand and hood built for my 210.

[Chatouille]

know what you mean about work... been crazy for me too. I found a different schematic to use for the fans that seems to fix issue some ppl were having. I've only tested it out a little, but it works. Let me know if you want it, and I'll post it up after work one night this week.

The temp sensors are really striaght forward to setup, if you need any help, shoot me a pm, and I'll do my best to help.

Chris

[daplatapus]

Lol, is smoke coming out of a transformer a bad thing, hahaha :D

[daplatapus]

Ok, so maybe I did something wrong... maybe. :)

I took this step down transformer and took out the 2 stock resistors. I put a jumper where one resistor was and installed a variable resistor where the other was. Plugged it in and POP!!!! blue smoke, HOLY CRAP!! Fire! lol, extremely exciting. :shocked!:

What did I do wrong???
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-03-17205440_zps663f9c80.jpg

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-03-17205500_zps573946ff.jpg

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-03-17205513_zps1e6ded92.jpg

I tested the variable resistor and the centre leg is the wiper and the other 2 legs are either side of the resistor. I used the back leg so the further out the adjustment screw was the lower the voltage, turn it clockwise and the voltage increased. the unused leg is the one you see sticking out of the variable resistor.

[Goatman]

Ok, so maybe I did something wrong... maybe. :)

I took this step down transformer and took out the 2 stock resistors. I put a jumper where one resistor was and installed a variable resistor where the other was. Plugged it in and POP!!!! blue smoke, HOLY CRAP!! Fire! lol, extremely exciting. :shocked!:

What did I do wrong???
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-03-17205440_zps663f9c80.jpg

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-03-17205500_zps573946ff.jpg

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-03-17205513_zps1e6ded92.jpg

I tested the variable resistor and the centre leg is the wiper and the other 2 legs are either side of the resistor. I used the back leg so the further out the adjustment screw was the lower the voltage, turn it clockwise and the voltage increased. the unused leg is the one you see sticking out of the variable resistor.

Should have used the newer smoke free ones...duh

[ScubaSteve]

Where did the smoke come from Dom?

[ScubaSteve]

BTW, I still have all the parts for a LM2575-ADJ adjustable stepdown converter if you want them.

[daplatapus]

Should have used the newer smoke free ones...duh
Ahhhh, but I hear it takes quite the expertise to get these ones to release this particular smoke, lol.

[daplatapus]

Where did the smoke come from Dom?

It came out of the top of the 1000uF high temp capacitor. The brown one on the left, you can kind of see where it blew the 3 embossed triangles open at the top.
I did find some of the LM2576HV Chris was talking about on ebay for fairly cheap. But I kinda wanted to get what I have working, since, well you know, I have them :)

[Chatouille]

Well... actually one less now :lol:

The LM2576HV i have works well, stays cool, and is able to step down from 48VDC. Most of the other dc/dc converters are limited to ~36v, but the biggest selling point is that they come pre-assembled. :mrgreen:

Here's that schematic for the fan.
http://imageshack.us/scaled/large/22/fanbufferv12.jpg

[daplatapus]

Hmmm, pic is too small to make out. I tried saving it and zooming in but it went all blurry... unless that's the aftermath of the exploding transformer :razz:

[Chatouille]

lol.... sounds like Bill Clinton. Tranformer smoked, but I didn't inhale. Why is everything so blurry? :lol:

[daplatapus]

Nope, didn't inhale. No really... :rolleyes:

Well I had a few minutes tonight so I finished soldering up one proto board and hooked up one of my waterproof temp sensors. After figuring out the address of it, modifying and re-laoding the sketch, all works well :D

[reefme]

Here is my controller

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z13lj3yevzcx3x6/KAK%20Controller.jpg

[daplatapus]

Well, I got a bit of time to fiddle around with my DC/DC step down transformers. And after staring at it for a while and tracing down pathway's I tried risking one and doing some trial and error. Turns out all I needed to do was remove the jumper that I'd originally installed and twin each of the solder points so instead of the 2 separate resistors, I had just the one variable resistor with 2 empty solder points. Everything seems to work and I can reduce the input 36V down to a variable 5.8V-12V
On to the next phase....

[daplatapus]

So it's looking like my MH bulbs on my existing fixture are coming up for replacement. The 77 gal DT is growing some algae that my 20 gal under LED's is not. Sooo... instead of waiting until the 210 gal upgrade is complete I'm going to build my light fixture with the Jarduino controller and get the MH's off the main DT. With that in mind I wanted to build on the full Jarduino V 1.2 beta release instead of the partial free program that I've been working with so far.
My plan for the 210 is to have 3 - 18" heatsinks. I have 1 built and is running on my 20 gal (it has to be modified and given another LED cluster for the 210) and I bought 2 more heatsinks last fall that have been patiently waiting. Last night I got all the little screws on the heatsinks while the wife watched "Dancing With the Stars, lol.
Here's the result:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-02070828_zps9e1c72f3.jpg
I'll be downloading the new Jarduino code tonight and start playing with it.

ScubaSteve and Chatouille (and anyone else building this thing): How are your projects coming? Love to hear back about your success and/or frustrations :P

[byee]

Who/where did you buy your heatsink and end caps from for the LED's?

I'm considering the heatsink from LED group buy but can't justify paying $4 per inch. I'm hoping the one you're using is significantly cheaper.

Thanks!

[ScubaSteve]

Dom! It's to finish these lights bud! :razz: I'm doing a a PhD and running a business and I finished back in February :wink:

Just kidding.... :razz:

My LED tank is running great. I have zero filtration in the biocube and I'm growing SPS and a clam like a champ. Helps having a F- ton of light! :wink: The 3-ups are the way to go despite the fact they limit your output. I have zero colour separation which is nice. I wish I had the ability to control the red on the OCW stars separately but the turquoise and green really beef up the colours. My only complaint is the fans. I don't have the options you do to control the fans and have been foiled at other attempts to piggyback them off the existing circuitry. I'll probably have to hack the Typhon and repurpose a pin for the fans. Oh, and I managed to break a couple of fins off one fan so it sounds like a 747 taking off in my living room... Haven't had the time to replace it yet though.

[Chatouille]

Mine's up and going.... still running ver. 1.1 though. I saw Jamie post that 1.2 final is in the works, so will update when that comes out. Really enjoy the dusk/dawn effect, and the ability to dial in the color. The PWM controlled fan works great... heatsink has never raised above 90 F. (I drilled partially through the heatsink and used thermal adhesive to secure in the DS18B20 sensor) I can’t believe how much cooler these run vs. MH or T5’s.


Overall, I'm pleased with it, but still some tweaking to do. I need to order another ribbon cable to try out, I get random artifacts on my LCD display on occasion. (don't get them if directly plugged into the shield) Everything looks good, but my red's don't *pop* quite as much as I'm used to. (under MH, with T5 supplementation) I used all Luxeon Rebels, (RB, B, NW, WW, 420 nm violets) but just ordered some Cree's from Milad to play with to see if it helps. If I can get the red to really *pop* like everything else, I'll be happy.

[daplatapus]

Who/where did you buy your heatsink and end caps from for the LED's?

I'm considering the heatsink from LED group buy but can't justify paying $4 per inch. I'm hoping the one you're using is significantly cheaper.

Thanks!
Sorry to break it to ya, but ya, these are the LED group buy heatsinks from makersled. Keep in mind that with that price you get all the mounting screws, heatsink, splash guard and cooling fan. It's still on the pricey side, but it's clean and no tapping needed. The top of the heatsink is channeled for a 5/16" nut so hanging is clean and easy. I originally went this way so I could fool around with 1 - 18" fixture, try several things out, and still just loosen off the screws and move the LED's around, change spectrum etc. Then when I had all the bugs worked out duplicate it on 2 more for my 6' tank.

Dom! It's to finish these lights bud! :razz: I'm doing a a PhD and running a business and I finished back in February :wink:


LOL, I know, eh? I run my own business too, and it's been totally crazy. Never fails, feast or famine.
Good to hear you're happy with your rig. I'm running my 3-up's on 2 channels (RB's and NW's) but my OCW's on just one. I'm happy with it so far.


Everything looks good, but my red's don't *pop* quite as much as I'm used to. (under MH, with T5 supplementation) I used all Luxeon Rebels, (RB, B, NW, WW, 420 nm violets) but just ordered some Cree's from Milad to play with to see if it helps. If I can get the red to really *pop* like everything else, I'll be happy.
On my 20 gal cube I've got the 425nm TV's as well and I'm pretty happy with them. Can't say they make the red's pop though. On my new lights I got 3 TV per heatsink that go into the 405nm. Not sure that'll make any difference, but I thought I'd try them out.
There's a guy on UKreefs that had issues with his screen doing weird things too with a cable on his screen. I read he had it figured out and was running a 24" cable (I think), but I can't remember how he fixed it. Something to do with his connections not giving a good enough contact or something.

I had a little bit of time tonight and got the LED's of 1 heatsink screwed down and ready for wiring. I might get the other screwed up tomorrow.

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-02210803_zpsc771c89c.jpg

[byee]

Thanks for the info.

I've been looking for alternatives but they do have the best one yet!

I'm in the process of setting up a new 60g cube - 24x24x24. Considering a single 18" fixture. May consider maybe 20" depending on LED options.

Still exploring LED options. Short listed to Steve's or aquastyle. Still lots of decisions to make - colors, ratios, wattage and drivers. At one point, I was thinking of the 10w LEDs but decided against it because of driver costs. Now I'm back to the 3w LEDs to get better coverage.

I have a Jarduino ready to go running the v1.2 beta 2 sketch. Now just waiting for the relay board and temperature sensors.

I've decided on the Meanwell drivers since they're waterproof IP67. Safer around water especially salt water. Model number will depend on my LED selections.

Any advice?

[daplatapus]

What's your plan for the top of your cube? If you're going with a hood that's going to cover everything anyway, I might give consideration to stock aluminum as a heat sink. However that would entail either drilling and tapping or gluing the LED's directly to it. In my mind (and my tendency to never leave well enough alone) these methods are less than desirable. I like the fact that I'll never have to purchase another heatsink again. I'll just continue to re-purpose these and change the LED's as technology and knowledge of these light fixtures develops.
If your plan is an open top with the fixture visible, these heatsinks are totally finished. It does take a bit of planning and imagination to make the wires going in and out clean, but certainly doable. I ended up drilling the heatsink and putting grommets and following the hangar I built.
My plan for my final fixture will be inside a hood mounted on moveable rails built from pocket door tack and rollers.

All my LED's have come from Milad. On my last order I was less than impressed with the packaging and shipping, but the product was good and the customer service was there to deal with my complaints.
If you're even thinking of multi chip, talk to Mike (mike31154). Nice guy and he knows tons of stuff about them. I was leaning that way after talking with him but I ended up chickening out, favouring what I knew.
My first fixture I used Inventronics drivers with the dim4 board and it was just ok. I didn't realize I wouldn't get dimming to zero and that sucked. All my lights go on 10% then ramp from there. It's amazing how bright 10% is. Might as well not even have dimming for the most part.
For my new build, I've got a wack of LDD 1000 and 700 Meanwwell drivers for the RB's, OCW's, TV's and a couple HLG's for my NW's. The OCW's and TV's are Exotic LED's and the rest are all 3W Cree's.
Ratio mix is much the eye of the beholder. I went with overkill and plan on adjusting by dimmer rather than try and get the correct mix by number of LED's. I live nowhere near anyone who runs a LED fixture so I can't really see anything in person to know what I'd call the mix I like. So, I have to figure it out on my own :)

Hope that helps somewhat. If you get to building something, start a build thread right away and keep us all posted.

[Chatouille]

I have 8 of the TV's, and like I said... overall I'm happy. The red's are just a bit deeper/darker when compared to my old MH/T5 combo, but it's pretty much a wash though, 'cuz other colors are better. (it'll be curious to see what the Cree’s will add to the mix)

Yeah, I saw that post on UK a while back about the cable.... funny thing is that my cable is only ~5" long. I might order the LCD shield from Itead, and try that if the new cable doesn't fix my problems.

I'm in the same boat as you Dom... no one around with LED's, and even the closest LFS is a bit over 3 hours from me. I also agree that it's easier to go overboard a bit, and just control the individual output lvl's, rather than to try to get the exact LED ratio

[daplatapus]

And then there were two...


http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-04071048_zps7ba981ae.jpg

[Chatouille]

looking good!!! Keep the pic's coming

[daplatapus]

Got the V1.2beta uploaded last night and running. I didn't play with the other version really so I'm actually not sure I see a difference, lol.
Now I need to figure out what the difference is between the UTFT library and the ITDB02_Graph16 library. I just loaded the graph16 one for now. Which are you guys running?

[daplatapus]

Over my morning coffee/breakfast I managed to pre-tin all my LED pads and jumper the RB's on the 3 up's
Even managed to keep my coffee/breakfast off the heatsink :D
6 LED clusters in total

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-10073020_zpsdbffe1a4.jpg

[daplatapus]

Geeze, I must have been asleep at the switch when I was originally doing my planning. I went to start wiring my LED's and looked over my plan drawing and just noticed now that I had the XM-L NW's on the same strings as my XT-E's. Du'oh! Good thing I bought extra LDD's :D

[Chatouille]

I think that I read that the difference between the libraries was optimization, not sure if one is more compatible than the other or not. (I'm using ITDB32S)

[daplatapus]

I think that I read that the difference between the libraries was optimization, not sure if one is more compatible than the other or not. (I'm using ITDB32S)
Hmmm, I wonder if it's noticeable.... Oh well, I'll worry about that later. I gotta get this thing wired up :D

Worked a bit on doing some soldering. Ugh, I think my eyes are gonna start bleeding, lol. I still have to drill the heatsink and get some grommets to pass the wires through. I ended up re-working my schematic so that each heatsink is individually wired and will be running on separate drivers from one another so if anything goes wrong with one I can unplug it and not affect the other 2. Each heatsink will have a 12" "tail" with these connectors:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/8pinmolex_zpse411e84a.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/8pinmolex_zpse411e84a.jpg.html)

There will be one for the positive side and one for the negative. Should make everything nice and easy to work on or change when needed. Anyway here's where I'm at so far with the one heatsink:


http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-13200751_zps0a0b100a.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-13200751_zps0a0b100a.jpg.html)

[daplatapus]

Well, something woke me up early this morning so I got up and tried to figure this out. I have one heatsink ready (somewhat, still waiting on some connectors) but I strill didn't know if everything worked in conjunction with the Jarduino. So I spent some time re-reading the original RC thread and temporarily hooked up what I have. Here's the pre-powered up pic in case I blew something up :D

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-15075749_zps27fc4df6.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-15075749_zps27fc4df6.jpg.html)

Crossed my fingers and powered everything up.....
YAAAAAA!!! It works! It's alive !!!!!
Switched the screen over to test LED mode and worked the sliders and everything works awesome! 0% dimming and everything. So I took a pic at step 1 of the sliders so the crappy phone could take a pic of it. I only have the XT-E NW's, RB's, TV's and the OCW channels hooked up, but you get the idea.

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-15080400_zps1addadb9.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-15080400_zps1addadb9.jpg.html)

EDIT: Actually now that I look at the pic I must have turned the RB's to 0 as they're not on in the pic, but they do work

[lastlight]

looking good! the full spectrum really brings the colours out on your hammer.

[daplatapus]

looking good! the full spectrum really brings the colours out on your hammer.
LOL, HAHA. Busted! I was too lazy to get mine so I used my wife's to punch out the unused pins on the 24 pin IC socket adapters.

[Chatouille]

LOL... I completely missed that. I had to go back and look at the pic’s, I thought I missed a post with a tank shot or something. It IS a sweet looking hammer though. :lol:

[daplatapus]

So, I'm re-thinking my connector issue. Just my LED's are going to take 16 wires. The heat sensor takes 3 and the PWM fans take 3 for a total 22. Been thinking of going with a DB25 connector affixed right to the heatsink and a breadboard mount DB25 by the arduino with a disconnect-able cable between them for each LED fixture. Any thoughts?

[byee]

I've been jumping between sites trying to keep up with everyone building the Jarduino.

Not sure if this was the forum but someone had purchased multichannel LED drivers from eBay. I'm looking for one of these multichannel LED drivers for my second Jarduino - development system.

If someone has the link, please point me in the right direction.

Thank you!

[daplatapus]

Hmmm, might have been Mike31154. Check his multichip build thread. http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82206

[Chatouille]

I would just double check what the connector is rated for, but sounds like an option. Even the molex connectors from an ATX powersupply would work. (24 pin ATX power connector) My vote would go to an amphenol 97 series circular connector.... but they are pricey.

[daplatapus]

Wow, you ain't kidding, $70 ea for 22 pin. And I'd need 12 for the connections and cords. Don't think so, lol. I'll keep looking though, I like the build of them.

[Chatouille]

$70 would be on the high side, all depends where you order. There are other manufacturers that make simillar connectors that are less expensive, just can't think of the name at the moment. ( I've mainly only used the amphenols )

[daplatapus]

Thanks Chris. Your suggestions and RC led me to something similar, a XLR connector. Looks like I'll only be able to get to 8 pin though. I'll probably run 1 for the + side of things, 1 for the - side of the LED's and run a DB probably for the PWM fans and sensor that very low current.

[Chatouille]

Molex also makes a cannon plug style circular connector (XRC™ sealed, plastic-circular connectors) Not sure of the pricing... will see if I can locate the other type I'm thinking of tonight after work.

[ScubaSteve]

Hey Dom,

What current are your LEDs running again? I use XLR connectors for the BC LEDs. I didn't use the typical XLR which are big, bulky and expensive, but rather some smaller 8 pin connectors (I think Lee's in Van call them DMX - which is an XLR) that were cheap and nice and small. I think they can handle up to a couple of amps. When I get home later I can take a pic of them (there might actually be a pic in my biocube thread).

[daplatapus]

Chris: Those XRC connectors are pretty cool. Looks like mouser sells them for $18 per side - $36 a set. Still pricey as I'll need 6 sets, but they are totally water/moisture proof. I'll have to see if I can source them locally...

Kevin: Most of my LED's are the XT-E's so they can go to 1.5A but the LDD should limit them to just over 900mA. The XM-L's however could be driven to 3A. I doubt I'd ever run them that high (probably boil the water, lol) so I maybe over thinking the whole connector issue anyway. I wish I could find something like the DB25 that could take 1A per pin...

[daplatapus]

Do you guys know anything about these aviation style connectors?

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/aviationplug_zpsf7b011f1.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/aviationplug_zpsf7b011f1.jpg.html)

Is that the mounting base that would screw to a dash AND the cable connector that would plug into it?

[Chatouille]

If looking locally.... try checking with a place, or electrician that does industrial control systems/automation, they might have something.

[mike31154]

Do you guys know anything about these aviation style connectors?

Is that the mounting base that would screw to a dash AND the cable connector that would plug into it?

Yes, looks like the chassis mount with the connector attached, so both parts, complete connector.

I've been watching some similar connectors on eBay, much less money & available in different pin configs. Probably not the same quality, but will likely do the trick.

https://6t23xq.bn1.livefilestore.com/y1pz6QSt9GlHz4tfCLpNWBQTelN05zu0sHcaw0oQIiDK5FQ85j dKuWwT9622QgUIV5SQD4hlRRugdc/21f7_1.jpg?psid=1

[daplatapus]

Do you have a link for those Mike?

[mike31154]

Do you have a link for those Mike?

Sent you a pm with the goods.

Essentially it's mil spec connector knock off. Here's a link for everyone's info to one of the big players in the connector business, Amphenol. There are a few other big boys, ITT Cannon, Bendix, but all these products will be all very pricey & probably overkill for our intended use.

http://www.amphenol-aerospace.com/pdf/12-090.pdf

[daplatapus]

So, I'm having an argument with myself about wire sizing. And as the internet would have it, I'm getting conflicting info.
According to this chart 18AWG can take 10A (which I actually find a bit hard to believe):
http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Wire-Gauge_Ampacity

But according to this chart it can take only 2.3A (which is one the other end of the spectrum):
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Anyone have any info on sizing wire for 1.5A running 10' while bundled?

[daplatapus]

Well, I had a good talk with an electrician that I use and he helped me wade through some of the dilemma's I've had. He's not a electronics guy, just a sparky who does house and commercial wiring but his code book pointed us in the direction I think I needed. Turns out a 18AWG wire all by itself in the open air can carry 10A but it's de-rated once it's bundled with a bunch of others. The ratio of decreased carrying capacity depends on how many wires it's run with. But according to our math 18AWG should be fine for what I'm doing. And as it turns out he had a roll of 18/21 sitting in his shop he gave me for $2/ft. It is fire alarm wiring.
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-26070706_zps2fcec9cb.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-26070706_zps2fcec9cb.jpg.html)

And I also got some other goodies in the mail yesterday. Now all I have to do is figure out how it works :D

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-26070742_zps0f742579.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-26070742_zps0f742579.jpg.html)

[daplatapus]

Hey Chris,
I'm finally looking at setting up my PWM fans on my heatsinks and I have a couple questions about that schematic you posted up earlier. In there you have 1K resistors, a 10K resistor, 1N4148 diodes, a BC547 transistor and 2N3904 transistors. How flexible are those? The reason I ask is I don't have most of them, lol. I have what Jamie posted in the instructions. 1N4001 diodes, BC549C transistors and 1K and 10K resistors.

[ScubaSteve]

Man, that circuit confused the **** out of me for a few minutes there until I realized what they were doing. Funny enough it's the same way those LDD drivers dim :razz: You think I'd know this one by now...

You should be fine Dom. The BC549c and BC547 are basically direct substitutes. The difference between your diodes and his are his are fast recovery diodes, while yours are general purpose. I'd have to go back and look again I think the diodes are just being used as protection in case there is any inductance from the fans. I think the general purpose should be fine because you aren't doing any high-frequency switching.

[byee]

Well, I had a good talk with an electrician that I use and he helped me wade through some of the dilemma's I've had. He's not a electronics guy, just a sparky who does house and commercial wiring but his code book pointed us in the direction I think I needed. Turns out a 18AWG wire all by itself in the open air can carry 10A but it's de-rated once it's bundled with a bunch of others. The ratio of decreased carrying capacity depends on how many wires it's run with. But according to our math 18AWG should be fine for what I'm doing. And as it turns out he had a roll of 18/21 sitting in his shop he gave me for $2/ft. It is fire alarm wiring.
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-26070706_zps2fcec9cb.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-26070706_zps2fcec9cb.jpg.html)

And I also got some other goodies in the mail yesterday. Now all I have to do is figure out how it works :D

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-26070742_zps0f742579.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-26070742_zps0f742579.jpg.html)

daplatapus,

Send me a close up digital picture of the header pins for input.

I just received mine last week but the 4 relay version. The relay modules are opto-iso which will require the pin to be tied to gnd to latch. From what I've found out over the last week, the opto-iso is not compatible with the Jarduino.

Simply put........the relay board latches on GND but eventually becomes inconsistent also latching on 3.3 to 5VDC.

[daplatapus]

Ya, I was actually just reading something about that on the jarduino thread on UKreefs. But I admit I'm not sure what all that means or what to look for for a proper relay board :D
Give me a sec and I'll post the pic.

[daplatapus]

One of the input pins:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-27202616_zpsa7d27687.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-27202616_zpsa7d27687.jpg.html)

One of the actual relay modules:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-27202642_zpsb67a6f9d.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-27202642_zpsb67a6f9d.jpg.html)

and one of the jumper pins on the far right of the board:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-27202707_zps0e54381f.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-27202707_zps0e54381f.jpg.html)

[daplatapus]

If anyone is interested, I'll probably be making a custom order for the 4-LDD pcb boards with the pull down resistor jumper that rrasco made on the RC thread. PM me if you interested in any of the boards...

[daplatapus]

You should be fine Dom. The BC549c and BC547 are basically direct substitutes. The difference between your diodes and his are his are fast recovery diodes, while yours are general purpose. I'd have to go back and look again I think the diodes are just being used as protection in case there is any inductance from the fans. I think the general purpose should be fine because you aren't doing any high-frequency switching.

Thanks man, I've blown a couple things up already, thankfully they were cheap, but waiting the 6-8 weeks for new stuff from China sucks. I didn't want to fry anything else. :razz:

[ScubaSteve]

If anyone is interested, I'll probably be making a custom order for the 4-LDD pcb boards with the pull down resistor jumper that rrasco made on the RC thread. PM me if you interested in any of the boards...

Sign me up for 4! I'm glad to see he added the pull-down after I suggested he do it... Unfortunately he did it after I build this tank :twised:

New LEDs for the main tank coming it the summer! Whoooo!

[byee]

One of the input pins:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-27202616_zpsa7d27687.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-27202616_zpsa7d27687.jpg.html)

One of the actual relay modules:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-27202642_zpsb67a6f9d.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-27202642_zpsb67a6f9d.jpg.html)

and one of the jumper pins on the far right of the board:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-27202707_zps0e54381f.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-27202707_zps0e54381f.jpg.html)

VCC - positive 5VDC
GND - ground
IN1 to IN8 - Arduino outputs

Take a jumper, connect to GND and to any of the IN1 to IN8 inputs. You should hear the relay latch.

[byee]

If anyone is interested, I'll probably be making a custom order for the 4-LDD pcb boards with the pull down resistor jumper that rrasco made on the RC thread. PM me if you interested in any of the boards...

You will need to modify the Jardiuno code to latch on logic low instead of high.

These changes will work. Low = on and high = off.

Intermittently, this logic used to turn the relay on & off will work backwards because of the opto-iso.

Jamie does have a SSR (solid state relay) setup which is installed & wired directly behind the outlet. This setup is the most stable and the quietest - SSR don't make the mechanical latching sounds.

I hope this helps!

[byee]

Thanks man, I've blown a couple things up already, thankfully they were cheap, but waiting the 6-8 weeks for new stuff from China sucks. I didn't want to fry anything else. :razz:

Did you order them from eBay?

Mine took about 2-1/2 weeks to arrive. I do suggest ordering than what you need simply because they're so cheap!!!

[daplatapus]

Ya, I was thinking of just ordering some more. I think I paid like $6 shipping included for this one. Maybe I'll find another use for it :D
Starting shoving stuff in a box over the last couple days. Geeze you run out of room quick! Got my hands on an old ADT panel box and thought I could use it. It may get too small. Still have to make up my fan circuit board and get it in here too.
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-28090346_zpsb121c9af.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-28090346_zpsb121c9af.jpg.html)

[byee]

Ya, I was thinking of just ordering some more. I think I paid like $6 shipping included for this one. Maybe I'll find another use for it :D
Starting shoving stuff in a box over the last couple days. Geeze you run out of room quick! Got my hands on an old ADT panel box and thought I could use it. It may get too small. Still have to make up my fan circuit board and get it in here too.
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-28090346_zpsb121c9af.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-28090346_zpsb121c9af.jpg.html)

What's the model number on the Meanwells your using to drive the LEDs?

[daplatapus]

There's a mix of LDD 1000's and 700's then those 2 HLG drivers

[byee]

If anyone is interested, I'll probably be making a custom order for the 4-LDD pcb boards with the pull down resistor jumper that rrasco made on the RC thread. PM me if you interested in any of the boards...

How much do the LDD boards sell for?

[daplatapus]

I think it's somewhere around $5-$6 per board after shipping

[daplatapus]

Just test fired my 12 - 3W 3000mA XM-L's.... HOLY COW BATMAN! Thought I'd ignited a supernova on my work bench. Don't think these suckers will be running very high, lol.

[daplatapus]

Ugh, wire, wire, wire.
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-29212757_zpsf84ee753.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-29212757_zpsf84ee753.jpg.html)

[daplatapus]

I've e-mailed the manufacturer and looked through all available literature on these but still can't figure out what wire is for what. Anyone tell me which wire is +, -, ground and PWM?

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-04-30081008_zpsdc40865c.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-04-30081008_zpsdc40865c.jpg.html)

[reefme]

Is anyone have LDD-350H drivers spare? Would be nice if I could have three.

Thanks,
Kevin

[ScubaSteve]

I've e-mailed the manufacturer and looked through all available literature on these but still can't figure out what wire is for what. Anyone tell me which wire is +, -, ground and PWM?


Fairly confident it's:

Blk - grnd
Red - +
Yellow - Tach
Blue - PWM

I've had a number of fans with a similar set up.

[daplatapus]

Is anyone have LDD-350H drivers spare? Would be nice if I could have three.

Thanks,
Kevin

I have spare 700's and 1000's, that's it.


Scubasteve: Sweet, thanks!

[reefme]

I have spare 700's and 1000's, that's it.


Scubasteve: Sweet, thanks!

Ya, I have the same things (700 & 1000).

[daplatapus]

Well again another very early morning thanks to the ever so diligent crows and robins :frusty:
Oh, well, might as well do something constructive. This is what my office now looks like, lol

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-01074204_zps3da7edba.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-01074204_zps3da7edba.jpg.html)

And I got everything hooked up and it seems to be running, yaaaaaaay

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-01074746_zpsd69fd163.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-01074746_zpsd69fd163.jpg.html)

The Arduino up and running the code:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-01074824_zps177843f5.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-01074824_zps177843f5.jpg.html)

And a shot of the panel box everything is mounted in temporarily:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-01074803_zpsa3c8038a.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-01074803_zpsa3c8038a.jpg.html)


I'm still waiting for my amphenol connectors that's why everything is only temporarily connected. I couldn't think of another way to test fire everything at once to make sure it all worked together. I also want to get this thing over my 77 gal and see if it has a positive effect on the coral and algae I just can't seem to kick. I do have MH bulbs that are 8 months old or so and at this point I'm not buying bulbs with this thing so close to operational.
I also have not finished my fan circuitry so right now the fans are not running on my heatsinks so that's next on the priority list.
I also have to fine tune the Arduino code because I have a couple channels used that the original code was using for sump lights and such that I'm not using. So I have to figure that out.

Anyway, that's an update for now. Hope ya'll enjoy. It appears to be getting lots of views but it's so quite in here :D

[daplatapus]

Got a question for all you wiring guru's. I want all my components housed by my arduino, I really don't want anything sitting on a heatsink. For ease of replacement/service, I also didn't want to link the LED's to each other. I want to be able to remove a fixture and not have it affect the other 2. So I have thus far gone to fairly great lengths in planning to accomplish that. BUT, turns out I'm 1 wire short to my fixtures, DU'OH!!!!!!
I have 8 strings of lights = 16 wires. My fan requires 3 wires for power and PWM and the heat sensor for the heatsinks require 3 wires. For a total of 22 needed wires. But the wire I have only has 21 :frusty:
Is there any way I can share a wire in the fan/sensor circuitry? Or am I going to have to run 1 single wire for my sensor or fan?

[ScubaSteve]

What kind of heat sensor are you using? I imagine that the sensor and the fan could share a common ground.

[daplatapus]

I'm was going to be using the DS18B20. It's got 3 legs on it 1 of which is a ground that goes to the Arduino's ground plane. I though maybe I could share that ground too but by Chris' schematic the fan grounds all go through either a 10K resistor or through a 2N3904 transistor and I wasn't sure if that would work...

Which actually brought me to another question about that 10K resistor. All I have here is a huge 3W10K resistor, will that still work in that fan circuit?

[beefORchicken]

tagging along, this is really cool :pop2:

[daplatapus]

OOOOoooohhhh, look what I got today :D

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-02170458_zps000f5639.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-02170458_zps000f5639.jpg.html)

[ScubaSteve]

I'm was going to be using the DS18B20. It's got 3 legs on it 1 of which is a ground that goes to the Arduino's ground plane. I though maybe I could share that ground too but by Chris' schematic the fan grounds all go through either a 10K resistor or through a 2N3904 transistor and I wasn't sure if that would work...

Which actually brought me to another question about that 10K resistor. All I have here is a huge 3W10K resistor, will that still work in that fan circuit?

Hey Dom, the DS18B20 should be able to share a ground with the fan circuit but, yes, Chris' fan scheme might present some issues. Then again, that damn schematic he posted is so damn small I can hardly tell what's what - I'm going blind staring at that thing. Can you post a bigger version of it?

[daplatapus]

Lol, ya the original was a bit small. I got my ampehol connectors in and a buddy of mine is a mechanic who works for highways has a crimper so I should be good to go. Although because the pins are removable, I think I can actually solder my wires on.

How's this pic for size:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/FanBufferv12_zps8d293992.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/FanBufferv12_zps8d293992.jpg.html)

[Chatouille]

Wow I missed a lot here.... sorry work has been stupid the last 6 weeks.

Looks like you've made some great progress. You can use BC549, that's what I'm using as well. Just remember that the pin orientation (collector, base, emitter) is different on the 2N3904 than the bc549/547.

[Chatouille]

Yeah... that pic was small. I ended up emailing it to Dom shortly after.

[daplatapus]

Hey, there he is!
Ya I did some googling about the differences between them all and found a page there that said the pins were reversed so I hooked them up right, whew.
I'm not finished wiring that all up, but am working on it. Mounting it all on a breadboard.
I'm pretty excited about the amphenol connectors, they look awesome and will work great! Thanks for suggesting them Chris and to Mike and Scubasteve for the input for helping make my decision.

[Chatouille]

Nice to see how everything is coming together! There's still a few things I would like to do to mine, but it's hard to find the time right now.

[daplatapus]

New PCB boards with the integral pull down resistor have been ordered.

[KrazyKuch]

Should have used the newer smoke free ones...duh

I didnt see if anyone told what you did wrong here and I know your past that but for future reference for anybody else it looks like those 2 original resistors were in parallel and by putting in a jumper you basically jumpered out your variable resistor....ie you removed the resistance from the circuit, hence the smoke!!!

[daplatapus]

I didnt see if anyone told what you did wrong here and I know your past that but for future reference for anybody else it looks like those 2 original resistors were in parallel and by putting in a jumper you basically jumpered out your variable resistor....ie you removed the resistance from the circuit, hence the smoke!!!

Lol, I actually ended up pulling everything off the board and traced everything back to see how that thing was made.
I basically created a dead short like you said. Education is never free :)

[daplatapus]

2 ends down, 10 to go... them is a lot of wires in one little fitting...ugh

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-07073429_zps8ef891c6.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-07073429_zps8ef891c6.jpg.html)

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-07073438_zps3bd9227d.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-07073438_zps3bd9227d.jpg.html)

[daplatapus]

A soldering we shall go, a soldering we shall go... :music:
It's become my new habit over my morning coffee... I can think of funner ones

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-09072928_zps8b33a8d2.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-09072928_zps8b33a8d2.jpg.html)

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-09072945_zps56b80022.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-09072945_zps56b80022.jpg.html)

[daplatapus]

Ok, I got one fixture almost done. Just the fan and sensor circuit to figure out. I think I'm going to run a separate 3 wire just for the fan circuit to solve my wire shortage problem. Which will be much easier to fix if I ever have a fan fail. All I'll have to do is yank the fan off the heatsink and replace rather than have to pull the whole fixture to repair it. So here's the amphenol connector all soldered up:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-10070441_zpsc05a8ce3.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-10070441_zpsc05a8ce3.jpg.html)

And how it looks like once it's mounted to the heatsink:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-10072136_zps73603773.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-10072136_zps73603773.jpg.html)

I'm fairly happy with the final look of it.
And how it looks like from the back:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-10072205_zps88ad5c47.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-10072205_zps88ad5c47.jpg.html)

And the top with the fan and everything. The random wires still not connected are the fan PWM wires and the 3 sensor wires.

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-10072231_zps4203118e.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-10072231_zps4203118e.jpg.html)

And a final shot with the actual DIY cable I made up hook in:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-10072438_zps8d253174.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-10072438_zps8d253174.jpg.html)

A couple quick questions for anyone who's done something similar:
How did you mount your temp sensor on the heatsink and where did you mount it? Directly above one of the LED stars?

[mike31154]

I guess I'm too late with this advice, but on connectors with that many pins packed tightly together, it's often a good idea to have a piece of heatshrink on the wire before soldering. Once the pin is soldered up, slide the heatshrink down over the pin & shrink. This minimizes the chance of pins shorting together via a strand of wire or blob of solder. You did a fine job with the soldering so shorts are unlikely once things are buttoned up, but adding the heatshrink was a requirement for the work I used to do. It was great to work on the newer equipment with crimp pins that were pushed into the connector after assembly. With the proper insertion/extraction tools, these connectors were a pleasure to work on, but I wouldn't want to pay for that stuff out of my pocket.

[Chatouille]

For the temp sensor, I just drilled a partial depth hole in the heatsink, and used Arctic Silver thermal epoxy to secure it in the hole. My hope is that it will get a more accurate temp of the heatsink without being affected by the fan.

Yeah the crimp ring type with the extraction/insertion tool are really nice to work with, makes changing out a bent/broken pins a breeze. Would hate to pull apart a 30+ pin solder type connector just to change out a damaged pin.

[daplatapus]

I guess I'm too late with this advice, but on connectors with that many pins packed tightly together, it's often a good idea to have a piece of heatshrink on the wire before soldering.

Ya ,I actually thought of that after I'd finished the first one. But what I was able to do was heat the pin up just a hair and stretch the wire insulation down over the pin. It worked really well and once the pin cooled the insulation stayed put. :)

I did have a buddy of mine that has the amphenol crimper and everything to do it, but these pins are meant to be soldered. The wire actually slides about 1/16" or so into the pins in a little pocket. Then one it's soldered there's nothing ever going to pull these out. It tedious work to be sure, especially those middle pins, but it works well.
And ya, I didn't want to spend the dough on the real amphenol connectors either :D

For the temp sensor, I just drilled a partial depth hole in the heatsink, and used Arctic Silver thermal epoxy to secure it in the hole. My hope is that it will get a more accurate temp of the heatsink without being affected by the fan.


Yeah, I was worried the fan would affect the sensor. With all the fins on the back of this heatsink it'll just direct all the air right by the sensor. I like the idea of half drilling through the aluminum and setting in with that thermal epoxy. Did you worry about how close you were to an actual LED location?

Thanks for the feed back!

[Chatouille]

Yeah... the crimp type are a different animal all together. They have a nice wire stripper for it that will only strip back what’s needed.

My LED’s are spaced fairly evenly, so I wasn’t too worried. I have a row of LED's on each side, with clusters down the middle of the heatsink. I have the sensor centered width wise, but slightly offset length wise, so as not be directly under the fan. I also heat shrinked each leg on the sensor, then placed another heat shrink over everything, so that it covered up all of the legs, and what part of the sensor that was sticking out of the heatsink..... Hope that makes sense. (The sensor ended up behind one of my clusters)

[daplatapus]

Just as a bit of an update, and to show I did indeed listen to you Mike :) here's a shot of the connectors and how I was able to stretch the wire insulation down a hair to protect the pins:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-11085428_zpsf66c151e.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-11085428_zpsf66c151e.jpg.html)

[daplatapus]

I got the new boards in today with the built in pull down resistors. Here's what they look like:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-15185729_zps6f9df491.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-15185729_zps6f9df491.jpg.html)

And with the order they also sent me 2 of these boards. I have no idea what they're for but if either Chris or Scubasteve want them, let me know and I'll send them with your boards.

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-15185807_zps8584e778.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-15185807_zps8584e778.jpg.html)

And if you guys need any 10K resistors for these boards, let me know too as I have a bunch of them as well I can send with;

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-15185933_zps21453c69.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-15185933_zps21453c69.jpg.html)

[reefme]

I just received the same boards too. Still missing the screw terminals and jumpers.

[spit.fire]

I may have found a good contact for these MEanWell LDD-XXXX-H drivers. Please PM me again if you still need any of them. I'm thinking of ordering a dozen or so of the 1000's, 700's, 600's and 500's. I'll need a bunch so not sure what will be left over, but if you'r thinking of it, let me know.

Oh and I was able to get a hold of these little babies that will get soldered into the 4 LDD driver boards I'm getting so you can just plug the drivers in and out if you need/want to change them out :)

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/LDDholders8_zps28ff2b45.jpg

Where did you find the sockets for the ldd drivers?

[ScubaSteve]

Where did you find the sockets for the ldd drivers?

A place in Vancouver called pixel print. If I recall they are just a 18 pin machine IC socket (Dom - correct me if I'm wrong). You can get them from a number of electronic supply places.

[reefme]

Where did you find the sockets for the ldd drivers?

Got mine from eBay 24 pins (wide one).

[daplatapus]

A place in Vancouver called pixel print. If I recall they are just a 18 pin machine IC socket (Dom - correct me if I'm wrong). You can get them from a number of electronic supply places.

Yup, that's right, but they are 24 pin. Type this in on ebay:
5pcs x 24Pin IC Socket (Machine tool) ROHS Best Quality

There's a listing there right now and it ends up about $5 for 5 sockets and it's in Vancouver, so you won't wait 8 weeks for delivery from China.
I've seen some guys cut the legs off, but if you get a small little nail punch (and a pretty little flower covered hammer :D ) you can just punch them out easy enough.

[daplatapus]

So I bought new PCB boards with the drop down resistor to prevent the LED's from going full 100% if the board looses the pwm signal. Thanks to Scubasteve for that modification! I'm sure this will save many a coral from being baked.
But, that also means I have to de-solder all my old boards and resolder everything on the new ones... wheeeeeee!
Here's the new baord and the start of soldering the drop down resistor:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/13b6da16-a9b4-4597-a937-4daf3fa500c5_zps82c5b530.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/13b6da16-a9b4-4597-a937-4daf3fa500c5_zps82c5b530.jpg.html)

And if anyone doubts the teeny tinniness of these resistors:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-20071548_zps711c2599.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-20071548_zps711c2599.jpg.html)

All the resistors in on one board and the dip sockets:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-20072347_zps365870b7.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-20072347_zps365870b7.jpg.html)

And with the terminals and jumper pins soldered in:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-05-20072923_zps3e8fdd63.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-05-20072923_zps3e8fdd63.jpg.html)

[reefme]

is there a way to add a potentiometer to this?

[daplatapus]

Sorry of this is a stupid question, but add a potentiometer to do what?

[reefme]

To manually control the brightness of the LEDs rather than going to the software.

[ScubaSteve]

I was confused too but now I see...

With these particular drivers, no. The LDD drivers are controlled with a PWM signal rather than a 0-5 or 0-10V source. If you got a simple IC, like a 555, you could add a potentiometer to that to vary the PWM signal to the drivers. It's not difficult to implement if you want to forgo a controller. There are simpler controllers than the Jarduino if that's what you are looking for. I use a Typhon but will hopefully be experimenting soon with a cool new controller that Spencer at Blue World Victoria is working on.

[reefme]

It's OK now. I just add another screen for individual LED brightness and save it to eeprom.

[daplatapus]

Glad you got it figured out. I'm out camping and doing this on my phone with my big dumb thumbs :)
Trying not to have to put long posts up, lol.

[reefme]

Can you wire two LDD drivers to one output pin on arduino?

[daplatapus]

Yup, I've got 4 LDD-1000 running off one pwm pin. Just remember to tie your neutrals together on your input sides.

[reefme]

Took a risk and its worked! The ps that i have is very noisy. Looking for 48v ps. Will this works for the LDD drivers?

http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/pdf/hlg320h.pdf

[daplatapus]

That HLG is a driver in itself. Look for the Meanwell SE-350-48.

[reefme]

That HLG is a driver in itself. Look for the Meanwell SE-350-48.

Got the similar one, but pretty noisy.

[daplatapus]

Hmmm, weird. Mine's not noisy at all. Have you metered it out to confirm the voltage? It may not be putting out what you think.

[reefme]

I did. It is not a Meanwell's brand.

[reefme]

Can some one help me with wire sizes.

PS 48V 350W 7.3A powering two boards.
Each board has 4 (LDD-H1000)
Each LDD-H1000 4 (10W 11V 1A) LEDs

Need to know the wire sizes between power supply to the boards and from board to the LEDS.

Thanks,
Kevin

[daplatapus]

I was encouraged to go 18 ga min for psu to board and 20 from LDD's to LED's. There's a couple links back a page or 2 when I had a similar question. Check them out.

[daplatapus]

Got a wee bit done this morning over my coffee. Drilled one of the heatsinks to within about 1/8" of the back of the 3-up stars since they'll be on the longest and probably run the hottest. Then a bit of thermal epoxy dabbed in the hole and plunked a DS 18B20 sensor down in there. I need to find a way to block off this vane a bit to try and make it not so affected by the fan, thinking of just cutting a tight fitting piece of foam or something and gluing it down in there between the sensor and fan.
I'll try and wire a bit of it tomorrow morning.

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-06-06071101_zps6721a556.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-06-06071101_zps6721a556.jpg.html)

[daplatapus]

Well, I fired up my Jarduino for the first time with everything hooked up. All the new cables, temp sensor for water and heatsink fans, etc. So far it looks like all the LED circuits are working as planned, the temp sensors are working, but I can't get the heatsink fans to run. Hmmm, no idea why. According to the drawing I have for the fan circuit, it says to use PWM pin 45 on the Arduino and pin 48 for the fan enable, but I went through the sketch and I think it's actually PWM pin 44 and 47 for the enable. So I used those but nothing...
Temp is holding steady at 27.5 C. I turned down the temp value so the fan should have come on at 20C. If there's a PWM signal from the arduino, where and what would I measure in the circuit?

[daplatapus]

Well as the other colours are coming on the heatsink temp has climbed to 34.5C. Gonna turn this off until I can get 'er figured out

[reefme]

Want to help, but I don't have a copy of it.

[daplatapus]

Sorry, page 17 post 162 of this thread.

[reefme]

Ya, but you have to look into the sketch to make sure it's assign to that pin.

[daplatapus]

Oh, that, lol, ya I did. I have a feeling it's not a sketch related problem.
The lines I found in the sketch that I think do what I'm wanting are:
const int HoodFansPWM = 44; //PWM Hood Heatsink Fan (code added so frequency = 25kHz)
const int HoodFansTranzPin = 47; //Hood Heatsink Fan on/off

This would leave me believe the arduino pins would be 44 and 47, not 45 and 48 as per the diagram previously referred to.

I have a feeling it's a wiring issue. That's why I was hoping to figure out if I should be able to read certain V's at specific places to be able to troubleshoot the circuit.

[daplatapus]

Woohoo, got the fans working!

[StirCrazy]

get some potting compound (clear) and fill in the holl around your heat sensor


Steve

[daplatapus]

Cool, thanks for the suggestion.
I've fired everything up and leaving it go for the day. I tried adjusting the fan on temps and the fans shut off even though the heatsink was warmer than the set temp. Turned the set temp back down and they come on again. They also seem to be going fairly slow.. not sure if there's a setting in the sketch that can speed them up or what?

[daplatapus]

Hmmm, unplugged the PWM fan wire and the fans ramped up to where I think they should be. Anyone hazard a guess what might be wrong? Where I should start looking?

[ScubaSteve]

Hmmm, unplugged the PWM fan wire and the fans ramped up to where I think they should be. Anyone hazard a guess what might be wrong? Where I should start looking?

I'd start by poking around with your multimeter. Check the PWM pin to see what the output is and make sure you haven't accidentally reversed the ground and PWM wires, then start checking each part of your fan circuit. If I remember that crazy-assed circuit correctly, there is a chance the transistors aren't saturated and thus aren't acting like switches as they were intended to.

Also, check the programming to see what the minimum and maximum PWM outputs are. Most fans will struggle to operate properly once the PWM drops below a certain duty%.

Finally, make sure your controller and fan circuit are sharing the same ground (not just plugged into the same circuit but literally have their ground planes connected). If they aren't I can almost guarantee that's the problem.

[daplatapus]

Everything looks like it checks out. But it turns out the BC549C can't power up multiple fans so the 2N3904 that is on that schematic Chris shared earlier. There's a thread on ukreefs about it but not sure if I can link it here...

[ScubaSteve]

Everything looks like it checks out. But it turns out the BC549C can't power up multiple fans so the 2N3904 that is on that schematic Chris shared earlier. There's a thread on ukreefs about it but not sure if I can link it here...

Can you repost the schematic and the link to that thread so I can take a look?

[daplatapus]

Sure
Schematic:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/FanBufferv12_zps8d293992.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/FanBufferv12_zps8d293992.jpg.html)


Link: You may have to go back 2 pages I think to where the guy brings up his problem and works through it.

http://ukreefs.com/index.php?topic=605.135


Thanks Chris for the help! Even though I kept you up 'till all hours of the morning on the east coast :D

[daplatapus]

Hmmm, looking like I have a wee bit of bleed voltage on my OCW string. On one heatsink, one of the OCW all 3 LED's are faintly lit and on the next in the series 2/3 LED's are lit.
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2013-06-13065222_zps25d59256.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2013-06-13065222_zps25d59256.jpg.html)


Wheeeee, isn't DIY fun! :frusty:

[daplatapus]

Due to work and a project my wife asked me to do I've not been able to do anything on this project. I've ordered different transistors for the fan circuit and it's on it's way from China...

Pinhead: I tried returning your PM but your box is full.

[daplatapus]

Well, got all my proper parts from China for the Fan pwm control to build it exactly as per drawing above, and the PWM speed control still doesn't work... argh.

[daplatapus]

Gonna resurrect this. It's going to be the only thing holding me back from my tank upgrade soon. I built another circuit board to exactly match the one in post #214 last night. Plugged 'er all in this morning with one heatsink and it's doing to the same thing. Heatsink temp is at 38.6C and the fan hasn't ramped up. It's still running at the same speed it had started at. Maybe something in the sketch...

[daplatapus]

Lol, ok, I'm an idiot. I was wracking my brain thinking of anything that could be the problem. The fan still hasn't been ramping up and down via the PWM signal according to the temp sensor on the heatsink. I have a DS18B20 sensor that looks like a BC549 transistor, sunk into my heatsink with thermal compound and that's controlling my fans. I also have another one that is attached to a cable and sealed in an encased water proof housing like in your manual.
So I wondered if it was working properly. As soon as I grabbed it and watched the temp on the monitor go up, I realized the fan was speeding up :D
Duh, I must have either screwed up the pin assignments or something. It's been a long while since I set this all up, so I have to go back and read in the manual what's making all this work.
But at least I've got an idea what's wrong now! LOL
I haven't fixed it yet, but I'm still relieved.

[WarDog]

Dude... no idea what you just said, might as well be speaking Swahilli... does it go beep beep like R2-D2? Lol.

Honestly though, I'm glad you figured it out. Are you going to be using this on your new build?

[daplatapus]

Haha, that's how I felt when I first embarked on this little adventure.

Ya, that's the plan. 3 - 18" full spectrum fixtures,

[daplatapus]

WOOHOO!!! Got it fixed. Now everything that I have hooked up is working as it should... only thing is that's 1 out of 3, lol
Hopefully it's just a matter of repeating what got done right on the first :D

[daplatapus]

Well, started cleaning things up a bit now that most everything is figured out. But now that I unhooked a couple things, I can't remember how they go back together. :frusty:

Here's where I'm at now. I took the HLG drivers out of the box. I was originally going to put it all in the left upper cabinet of the tank stand, but that put it in the same compartment as the overflow. I eventually thought that would give me moisture issues with the electronics so I mounted everything to a piece of plywood which will sit in the roof of the cabinet. I'm still looking to extend the TFT screen and mount it somewhere where I can reach it, but honestly, even if it just sits up top, not visible, it's not that big a deal. It's not very often I'll be changing anything with it regularly anyway.

This is what it looks like now:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2015-03-23%2011.29.25_zpsykymydhq.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2015-03-23%2011.29.25_zpsykymydhq.jpg.html)

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2015-03-23%2011.29.02_zpsmipzeqmg.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2015-03-23%2011.29.02_zpsmipzeqmg.jpg.html)

Now I just need to remember how the heck to hook up the HLG drivers.
I've got the LED's in series hooked up to the V- and V+. But the Dim- and Dim+ are the wires that have me stumped. I think the Dim+ goes to the PWM pin on the Arduino... And the Dim- to the ground plane of the Arduino..????
I think I may be losing my brain cells...

Anyone???

[Ron99]

Yup, Dim+ to the PWM signal and Dim- to ground :)

[daplatapus]

Cool, thanks! I've run into another potential problem, lol. I guess the HLG drivers need a 10V pwm signal but he Arduino only delivers 5V.
So now I need to see if the drivers will work at all (just at 50%) or how to convert the signal... :frusty:

[Ron99]

I did something similar with an Arduino years ago. IIRC you need a PNP transistor or a MOSFET and a 10V power supply. The 5V PWM switches the 10V via the transistor.

[daplatapus]

So I ended up buying a converter from Coralux. We'll see if that works.
I've got everything hooked up and fired it up today. First time I did that with all 3 fixtures. I have run into a couple problems:
1) The TV string doesn't work at all :frusty:
2) I have some voltage bleed on one fixture so 2 of the 3 OCW stars are always on dimly
3) The XML NW string comes on but it's not anywhere as bright as it should be - no doubt because of the 5V PWM signal instead of the necessary 10V PWM
4) The XML CW string runs backwards - turn it up, it dims - turn it down, it gets brighter - so it never shuts off - I have no idea :frusty: :noidea:

BUT, on the positive side, the cooling fans work flawlessly - something that's been wrong for a while but now seems fixed.

Here's a shot before I fired it up - I figured if it blew up and burned to the ground, at least I'd have proof of what I built, lol

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2015-03-24%2016.50.37_zpspo0c3ykr.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2015-03-24%2016.50.37_zpspo0c3ykr.jpg.html)

And lo and behold, it actually working :party:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x353/daplatapus/2015-03-24%2017.33.16_zpsyuxqlrwa.jpg (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/daplatapus/media/2015-03-24%2017.33.16_zpsyuxqlrwa.jpg.html)

[daplatapus]

I got my converter in from Coralux and I think I have it all figured out how to wire it. But I'm now looking for some of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-2-6-12P-Dupont-Jumper-Wire-Cable-House-Pin-Connector-2-54mm-Pitch/271219591400?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1% 26asc%3D29702%26meid%3D199c1509bf1e42fe947e3343458 58fcc%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D191 107646877

Anyone know where I can get some locally (Island or mainland)?

[daplatapus]

Well, dog gone it, I wasn't able to do things how I wanted. Turns out these HLG drivers cannot dim to zero, and if I wanted to use them I'd have to relay the power to the driver to turn them off. Needless to say I'm a bit disappointed, but I have only myself to blame for either not remembering that, or not doing enough research on them in the first place. The dimmest they get is almost 50%
If I knew a bit more about arduino programming language I think I could do it, but I'm not there. I have an extra Arduino Mega board, I'll probably keep the drivers and play with it over the next year or two and see if I can get it working, but for now I scrapped the idea, removed them from the system and built another LDD board for the XML LED's. They're going to be severely underpowered but I still think I'm going to have a lot of light. A total of 156 Cree and Exotic LED's.

Everything works fine now, but I am going to tweek some of the proto boards over the summer and swap them in for what there's now, so no real down time for the lighting.

Hopefully get some pics up of the finished product here in the next few days.

[Vancouver Reefer]

I got my converter in from Coralux and I think I have it all figured out how to wire it. But I'm now looking for some of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-2-6-12P-Dupont-Jumper-Wire-Cable-House-Pin-Connector-2-54mm-Pitch/271219591400?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1% 26asc%3D29702%26meid%3D199c1509bf1e42fe947e3343458 58fcc%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D191 107646877

Anyone know where I can get some locally (Island or mainland)?



Try Lee's Electronics on Main St. Great little store for all sorts. Cheap too.

[ScubaSteve]

Hey Dom, do you need those specifically or just some 12 pin connectors? I can take a look in my own stock of stuff and also look at Lee's next time I'm there (probably some time mid-week?) and I can send them over to you.

How many are you needing?

[ScubaSteve]

Well, dog gone it, I wasn't able to do things how I wanted. Turns out these HLG drivers cannot dim to zero, and if I wanted to use them I'd have to relay the power to the driver to turn them off. Needless to say I'm a bit disappointed, but I have only myself to blame for either not remembering that, or not doing enough research on them in the first place. The dimmest they get is almost 50%
If I knew a bit more about arduino programming language I think I could do it, but I'm not there. I have an extra Arduino Mega board, I'll probably keep the drivers and play with it over the next year or two and see if I can get it working, but for now I scrapped the idea, removed them from the system and built another LDD board for the XML LED's. They're going to be severely underpowered but I still think I'm going to have a lot of light. A total of 156 Cree and Exotic LED's.

Everything works fine now, but I am going to tweek some of the proto boards over the summer and swap them in for what there's now, so no real down time for the lighting.

Hopefully get some pics up of the finished product here in the next few days.

Only 50%? That weird. They should go down to minimum 10%, and probably even as low as 1% if wired properly. Might be limited by the Arduino code? If you email a copy of the Arduino sketch and I take a quick read through and see if the problem is in there.

[daplatapus]

Hey Steve! Long time no see :)
Ya, it was weird. I got so frustrated, I ended up yanking the HLG drivers out and went with LDD's for now. I still want to get it figured out, but with water in the tank I wanted to get some lights up.

Pm me your e-mail and I'll send you the sketch or put it on dropbox or something.
So because I ended up not using the drivers, I didn't need the PWM converter, and thus no longer need the connectors, lol.