What else can I do?

[coolhandgoose]

So the short version of this story is that I had a bad cyano or some type of algae problem. It looked brown and snotty with bubbles. The bulbs I was using were over a year old.

So what I've done so far to try and get my tank looking top notch again is I've changed all 6 bulbs on my t5 fixture. I've added cheato. I did a round of chemiclean about 4 days ago. Took all the rocks out, rinsed them in some fresh salt water and scrubbed them. Did the 20% water change and have my skimmer running again with carbon and gfo.

I've also added some sand back into my tank since I was running it bare bottom and added a conch and another snail (like a huge nassarius snail).

Tank parameters.
Sg 1.025
Temp 79
Mag 1400
Dkh 9.0
Cal 380
Fish are a yellow tang, coral beauty and clown.

Here are some pics of the algae coming back a bit again.

Powerhead with the bubbles and brown algae.
http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab227/coolhandgoose/photo3-14.jpg

Finger leather opening up again but has some brown algae on it.
http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab227/coolhandgoose/photo2-22.jpg

Duncan which has been closed for about two days starting to open again. You can see a big string of the algae.
http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab227/coolhandgoose/photo1-22.jpg

[reefwars]

what are your nitrates and phosphates at??

could be dinos , google dinoflaggelates(im the worse for spelling lol) could be what your dealing with:)

good luck!

[coolhandgoose]

Nitrates and phosphates are nearly 0

I really hope they aren't Dino's.

[reefwars]

Nitrates and phosphates are nearly 0

I really hope they aren't Dino's.



sure looks like it to me. if your phos and nitrates are near zero you shouldnt be getting that much algae.

running media??

i would start looking into dinos as crappy as it sounds:(

[coolhandgoose]

Could it be calothrix?

I really lack for clean up crew in my tank. I have one brittle star, about 5 Astraea snails, a conch I just added and a huge nassarius looking thing. I would count my cleaner shrimp but it seems to eat fish and coral food.

I am running gfo in a phosban reactor and just added cheato.

I'm thinking of doing another water change tomorrow and seeing how things go. Let the cheato and new lights have a chance to work.

[Proteus]

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/blog/how-i-beat-dinoflagellates-and-the-lessons-i-learned

[coolhandgoose]

The article says that snails can die from Dino's and I've never had any snails die and I've been dealing with this for a couple months now. It's just recently that I've started to really try and fix my tank with the steps I listed above.

[reefwars]

where did you get the sand or was it new??

[coolhandgoose]

I had the sand from before when the problem was bad. I took it out a few months ago, rinsed the crap (literally) out of it and it sat dry until a few days ago when I rinsed it again, and let it soak in some to/di before I added some yesterday. I haven't added even a quarter of what was in there before.

[reefwars]

something seems off to me when i look at the pics every shot has algae of some kind growing. you have new bulbs , good water,running gfo and have a cuc.....your bioload is low and no nutrients......

i would think your old "bad sand" is still bad , probably releasing stuff you couldnt wash out enough of.

[coolhandgoose]

I only added it yesterday though.

I'm thinking I may have to be patient which is hard for me. I'm really tempted to do another round of chemiclean.

Here is another pck of a rock with the algae.

http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab227/coolhandgoose/photo-8.jpg

[Proteus]

Did chemi clean do anything.

I wonder if your rocks are leaching

[coolhandgoose]

The chemiclean definitely broke up the algae and it was really easy to blast it off with a turkey baster. Interesting theory about leeching rock cuz they are all starting to get this crap on them.

[Borderjumper]

I feel your pain.. im dealing with the crap too in my RSM. Mine is my own fault tho. Ive been using a phosphate binder with awesome results in my big tank by doing a couple of drops daily directly into my filter socks. Well since i had a LITTLE patch of the brown bubbly in the Red Sea Max I decide to dose the RSM too.. so some drops directly into the tank for a couple of days then whoa! Now i have brown bubbly, green and red algea everywhere.. the sand bed is growing brown clumps!! I totally spaced that i have a POS skimmer, no sump and no filter socks to remove the phosphate binder. I think i have very successfully bound all my phosphate to my rock and sand :twised:

Ive done waterchanges 3 weeks in a row of 60%, blasted and basted rock, suctioned the sand and it isnt doing anything. Im on day 2 of a 3 day complete blackout. Im feeling pretty guilty of my fishes tho, so i think i will unwrap the tank tonight and feed the fish with just the available room light. Tomorrow the plan is to blast the tank and stir up as much crap as i can, do a 60% water change, set up my UV and run the diatom filter for a couple of days..If this doesnt help on to plan C.. which i dont have yet!

[coolhandgoose]

Do you have a pic so we can compare algaes? Good luck with the system.

My corals are definitely doing better right now with the recent changes. I have zoas that have been closed for 2 months opening for the first time.

I'm gonna do a phosphate check with my Hanna and test the tank water and the output from the reactor.

[coolhandgoose]

Phosphate test:
Tank water is .02
Water from reactor is .00

[11purewater]

Dino's Kill it with fire!or peroxide:biggrin:

[Myka]

That could definitely be dinoflagellates. I've had success treating by elevating pH with kalkwasser drip/doser. Siphoning it out helps quite a lot as well, but you have to keep on it. Expect that if you are on the ball 100% that it may still take you several weeks to get it under control.

[Enigma]

Phosphate test:
Tank water is .02
Water from reactor is .00

Are your lights out?

I was measuring 0.03 for phosphates when the lights were on. When I tested after my lights had been off for a couple of hours my phosphate was 0.26.

I'm assuming that as the cyano receded at night that it released the phosphates back into the water column.

I very conservatively dosed some Phosbuster Pro and changed my ROWAphos, and now the tank is measuring 0 at night (except for the 48 hours when I had my fluid reactors shut off for Chemiclean).

If it is cyano, you may need to treat the tank again. Did any of this stuff die when you used it? Did you turn your lights out?

When you did your 48 hour water change did you siphon all of the gunk out? I siphoned everything out with airline hose, and while it took forever, I got an amazing amount of garbage out of the tank with very good control. There was a lot more crap in my tank's sandbed than I realized.

I'm not sure if dinos are gram negative or not, so I don't know if Chemiclean would work on it.

Edit: according to this article, the bacteria in dinos may be gram negative: http://www.sb-roscoff.fr/Phyto/Reprints/Biegala_JPhycol_02.pdf

If that's the case, I would expect to have seen some negative reaction to the Chemiclean from it.

[coolhandgoose]

Are your lights out?

I was measuring 0.03 for phosphates when the lights were on. When I tested after my lights had been off for a couple of hours my phosphate was 0.26.

I'm assuming that as the cyano receded at night that it released the phosphates back into the water column.

I very conservatively dosed some Phosbuster Pro and changed my ROWAphos, and now the tank is measuring 0 at night (except for the 48 hours when I had my fluid reactors shut off for Chemiclean).

If it is cyano, you may need to treat the tank again. Did any of this stuff die when you used it? Did you turn your lights out?

When you did your 48 hour water change did you siphon all of the gunk out? I siphoned everything out with airline hose, and while it took forever, I got an amazing amount of garbage out of the tank with very good control. There was a lot more crap in my tank's sandbed than I realized.

I'm not sure if dinos are gram negative or not, so I don't know if Chemiclean would work on it.

Hmmm interesting....

I will check the phosphates first thing in the morning, I do notice it gets worse as the day goes on.
I siphoned out a lot of the gunk for sure. Also I had no sand bed in the tank when I did it.
I did not have the lights off for the treatment.

Thanks for all the responses. I really appreciate it. I'm really working hard to get my tank tip top this month.

[Enigma]

What kind of bulbs do you have?

In my digging, I discovered that Cree cool white LEDs cover the spectrum that cyano thrives in. I had my cano problem mostly under control, and then I switched out my t5s (2-Blue+, 1-Coral+, and 1-Purple+) for LEDs (Sol Blues). The cyano exploded over the course of a few hours, and I can only assume it was the spectrum provided by the cool white LEDs that did it.

[coolhandgoose]

I have t5s
2x ati 12000k
2x ati 20000k
1x ati 420 actinic
1x kZ Fiji purple

I just put them in 4 days ago in an attempt to get rid of the algae problem. The previous bulbs were over a year old.

[Enigma]

I don't think any of those bulbs should be an issue. It is the shorter wavelengths that cyano likes.

http://www.aslo.org/lo/toc/vol_37/issue_2/0434.pdf

[Enigma]

Oh. Here's a FW planted tank article on cyano that isn't as dry as the previous one.

http://www.aquascapingworld.com/algaepedia/full_view_algae.php?item_id=40&algae=Cyanobacteria

[coolhandgoose]

Ha thanks, I tried reading the last one and didn't make it very far.

So being gram negative you think chemiclean will help kill Dino's?

[Enigma]

If dinos are gram negatve then Chemiclean should kill it (unless it is resistant . . . Which bacteria can become). Chemiclean only kills gram negative bacteria. Gram positive bacteria (like your tank's biofilter) are unaffected by it.

The suggestion that dinos are gram negative seemed to be little more than an educated guess. Since you saw a reaction from whatever it is that you've got growing in there, I would guess it is gram negative: whether it be cyano or dinos.

I personally would try it again, providing the kivestock handled it well, but I'd give it a little bit of time or do a couple more big water changes before doing so.

[11purewater]

Dinos are a cyst,not a bacterium.

[Coralgurl]

I dosed chemiclean twice in 48 hours on my small tank last year with no I'll effects. Just be prepared for lots of water changes. I have no idea what type of algae you are battling so can not say whether this will work. Have you tried a blackout?

[Enigma]

Dinos are a cyst,not a bacterium.

But, they apparently incorporate bacteria into their colonial form, and have a symbiotic relationship with it. That bacteria is thought to be gram negative. That's in the article on dinos that I posted earlier. In killing their bacteria, it may be possible to kill, or damage, the dinos.

[coolhandgoose]

What are your thoughts on running UV? I've never used one.

[11purewater]

Makes sense:redface:and that does explain why the antibiotic makes it appear to disappear for a while.

[11purewater]

It's to bad we can't keep Crassostrea Virginica (eastern oyster)in a reef tank....or can we?

[reefwars]

i dont think chemiclean is going to help , i mean you did it once right and look what your left with.

have you looked into dosing h2o2 to your tanks alongside with blackouts, seems to be working for some folks on RC.


personally i would start treating for dinos and forget the chemiclean.

im almost positive your dealing with dinos.

possibly look into adding/dripping kalk or limewater and getting your ph rasied and stable.

good luck!!

[molotov]

Just out of curiosity, how old is your tank?

[coolhandgoose]

Tank is almost 2 years old. But has been moved. I'm not thinking diatoms.

I tested phosphates this morning with lights out and they were .07. So they were definitely up from during the day.

So my plan is to do another water change this morning. Wait a few days, do another round of chemiclean with the ensuing water change. The box does say you may need multiple treatments.

If that doesn't kill whatever I'm dealing with then we'll start down the Dino route.

Also I run my cheato light at the same time as my main tank, should I run it at opposite times?

[Proteus]

When u decided to finally try peroxide go to a horticulture store. You can get it there at 35%

[coolhandgoose]

When u decided to finally try peroxide go to a horticulture store. You can get it there at 35%

Thanks I was wondering where to get the stronger stuff.

[Enigma]

Just be aware that Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp do not tolerate H202 exposure well: they are one of a few "intolerants." You didn't specify what kind of cleaner shrimp you have.

I routinely use 3% for 10 minute dips (1:10 H202 to tankwater), and I've had very good success with it. For dipping corals I would stick with the lower concentration. If you'll be dipping your rocks, then I would use the 35% as it will stretch farther.

[coolhandgoose]

It is a scarlet skunk cleaner, had to google that.

I'm not going down the h2o2 route yet but will post if I do. If you dip your rocks in it won't it kill all the beneficial bacteria as well?

[reefwars]

Just be aware that Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp do not tolerate H202 exposure well: they are one of a few "intolerants." You didn't specify what kind of cleaner shrimp you have.

I routinely use 3% for 10 minute dips (1:10 H202 to tankwater), and I've had very good success with it. For dipping corals I would stick with the lower concentration. If you'll be dipping your rocks, then I would use the 35% as it will stretch farther.


im not talking about dipping though im talking about dosing straight to your system.

along with this low temps and a lengthly blackout are required.....some are doing up to 10 days.....coral has to go for this.

[reefwars]

It is a scarlet skunk cleaner, had to google that.

I'm not going down the h2o2 route yet but will post if I do. If you dip your rocks in it won't it kill all the beneficial bacteria as well?


if the solution is strong enough yes , or left to long.

[coolhandgoose]

Hmmm I really don't want to crash my entire tank by dipping rocks.

Also to my previous question, do you guys run cheato/fuge lights on opposite schedules to your main display? Mine is at the same time right now.

[Enigma]

im not talking about dipping though im talking about dosing straight to your system.

along with this low temps and a lengthly blackout are required.....some are doing up to 10 days.....coral has to go for this.

His shrimp would have to go, too.

I dosed H202 systemically for a few weeks, @ 2ml/gallon. I actually saw a lot of great things happen in the system, but when I added my scarlet skunk I had to stop.

[Enigma]

Hmmm I really don't want to crash my entire tank by dipping rocks.

Also to my previous question, do you guys run cheato/fuge lights on opposite schedules to your main display? Mine is at the same time right now.

I run my fuge light opposite, but that is to try to keep the pH up on the system.

[reefwars]

His shrimp would have to go, too.

I dosed H202 systemically for a few weeks, @ 2ml/gallon. I actually saw a lot of great things happen in the system, but when I added my scarlet skunk I had to stop.


absolutely i would remove all fish inverts and coral as it will take some time and wont happen over night just to be safe.tank will be easier to treat with no livestock.

[reefwars]

if your going to run a fuge for nutrient export unless your system is tiny not really going to see any noticable difference, i would go turf scrubber if thats why you want it that can keep you really low even ulns;)

[coolhandgoose]

Here are some pics after the lights just turned on.
As you can see there is very little of the brown crap, it seems to increase as the day goes on. Do Dino's do that?

http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab227/coolhandgoose/photo3-15.jpg

http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab227/coolhandgoose/photo2-23.jpg

http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab227/coolhandgoose/photo1-23.jpg

[reefwars]

yes its from the amount of oxygen used/provided in photsynthsis(what ive always though)...hence the reason it dissaappears during the night:)

[Enigma]

I don't know if dinos do that, but cyano definitely does.

[reefwars]

I don't know if dinos do that, but cyano definitely does.


dinos are famous for it:)

[reefwars]

by the end of the day your tank will be a mess of strings,slime and bubbles again ...prob by midday

[coolhandgoose]

See it's frustrating trying to get a diagnosis of this stuff :biggrin: I need to find someone with a microscope.
My tank looks awesome first thing in the morning, but by about 6 hours into the lighting period it starts looking like crap again.

[reefwars]

See it's frustrating trying to get a diagnosis of this stuff :biggrin: I need to find someone with a microscope.
My tank looks awesome first thing in the morning, but by about 6 hours into the lighting period it starts looking like crap again.


bring it in for testing then youll know for sure(a university should be able to put it under microscope for you) , dinos die in the cold though so they need to be transporeted quickly to the testing site.

[reefwars]

imo cyano is easy as hell to get rid of , dinos can go for months and months with different attempts to remove.

cyano dissappears for a while here and there , dinos is in it for the long haul.


theres reports on rc of people using chemiclean and ending up with dinos , one story is very similiar to yours.

[reefwars]

funny enough though its harder to keep dinos alive then it is to kill them , if you remove some and put it in another tank chances of survival is slim......irony maybe??

[daniella3d]

Dinoflagellates are kind of easy to get rid of by rising the PH. I did it and it never returned.

I used Seachem OH to rise the PH to 8.4 and keep it at that for a week. Now cyano is a pain...

Nitrates and phosphates are nearly 0

I really hope they aren't Dino's.

[coolhandgoose]

My ph right now is 8.4 but lights are just about to go out. I'll check again in the morning right before lights on. I'm using a bit of an older API test kit though so not sure how accurate that is.

[coolhandgoose]

Ph this morning was roughly the same, like I said probably a crappy test kit.

Dosed another round of chemiclean this morning, gonna keep the lights off for a couple of days, might cover the tank and go the complete blackout route too. So we'll see what happens.

[reefwars]

if your going to cover the tank then you need to do complete blackout a little bit of light getting through will do you no good.

good luck man im sure you get it knocked down:)

cheers

[coolhandgoose]

I'm gonna get garbage bags later and cover the tank up.

Since I lack an air stone I cranked up the skimmer to overflow.
http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab227/coolhandgoose/photo-9.jpg

[burgerchow]

Definitely looks like Dino's to me. I had them a few years ago and conquered them. Drastic measures though, you need to do an entire blackout over the whole tank for at least 4-5 days. Garbage bags won't work though, they are too thin and some ambient light will still penetrate into the tank. I used my motorcycle cover to make the tank pitch black. Try it, your tank will be ok in about a week. ( tank has to be in TOTAL darkness)

[reefwars]

now ya got er, if you want some more oxygen then take the cup off the skimmer all together more oxygen will flow over:)

[reefwars]

yeah garbage bags are gonna leak light in , it needs to be pitch black like burger mentioned even ambient lighting is food:)

[coolhandgoose]

K, I'll steal our barbecue cover and see if it fits lol.

[Enigma]

now ya got er, if you want some more oxygen then take the cup off the skimmer all together more oxygen will flow over:)

X2. Cup off while cranked up is the best way to do it. :)

[coolhandgoose]

I took the outside table cover so hopefully that's dark enough

http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab227/coolhandgoose/photo-10.jpg

[Borderjumper]

I covered mine for three days. last night I took the cover off and scrubbed what rocks I could get to with a toothbrush and then did a 25% water change. Then I ran my diatom filter for 5 hours. It looks pretty sparklie now... Don't know if it will hold tho:mrgreen:

I did have some sps fags RTN on me, but they were kinda poopie before the blackout.

[reefwars]

that will work just fine , check in on the fishes at night and they are good without food for a week if need be:)

jusdge the length of time by how your tank looks if the livestock are doing good then the longer in the dark the better the chances.


like daniella said look into raising your ph and keeping it raised:)

good luck man i know your pain:(

[burgerchow]

that will work just fine , check in on the fishes at night and they are good without food for a week if need be:)

jusdge the length of time by how your tank looks if the livestock are doing good then the longer in the dark the better the chances.


like daniella said look into raising your ph and keeping it raised:)

good luck man i know your pain:(

Raise your magnesium as well. Bring it as high as you can ( without hurting inhabitants,) pitch black tank for 4-5 days, then do a massive water change once you take off the cover. You'll need to suck up all the dead snots.

[coolhandgoose]

My mag is 1400 right now already. What is a safe level to bring it to?

[coolhandgoose]

I just did the 20% water change and turned down my skimmer so it might actually start skimming something. Haven't added the carbon yet and keeping the gfo reactor off for now as well.

I noticed yesterday the table cover was leaking a tan colour light through so I put a couple blankets on top and its now black.

Three more days and ill take the cover off and see the results. Hopefully it goes away for a while so I can enjoy my tank.

[coolhandgoose]

Day 3 now.

Do you think it'd be okay to turn half my lights on for like 20 minutes to feed the fish? Feeling guilty about having a totally black tank.

[coolhandgoose]

Today is day 5 of black out.

I took the cover off this morning and ran half the bulbs for about 45 minutes. Hopefully that doesn't screw everything up.

I did not notice any brown stringy crap, which is good but ill do the one more day of black out to be sure.

I fed my fish and my maxi mini.

I cleaned a power head.

I removed a netting that I installed at the overflow to prevent my peppermint shrimp at the time from getting sucked down. The netting I think did more harm than good since detritus and other gunk would just collect on the screen.

I noticed my skimmer hasn't produced anything in the last few days. I'm thinking my water is really clean right now from the previous water change and not feeding anything. Lots of bubbles in the skimmer, just no foam at the top being produced.

[burgerchow]

So you see the slime with snotty bubbles anymore? I would probably do another water change after you take the cover off.

[coolhandgoose]

So you see the slime with snotty bubbles anymore? I would probably do another water change after you take the cover off.

I did not see any brown snotty stuff. Mind you it usually came out after the lights have been on for a bit.

I have water already mixed up for a water change tomorrow.

Tomorrow will be the big reveal! Lights will be on and hopefully no reappearance of the evil brown crap.

[reefwars]

I did not see any brown snotty stuff. Mind you it usually came out after the lights have been on for a bit.

I have water already mixed up for a water change tomorrow.

Tomorrow will be the big reveal! Lights will be on and hopefully no reappearance of the evil brown crap.

good luck , are you running your phos media??

[coolhandgoose]

No I'm not running the phos reactor, I'll do a test and see what it is. My Duncan was opening up this morning which is good. I'm wondering if I was stripping too much out of the water before, I was running quite a bit of gfo. I'm going to add carbon this morning as well, I don't have a reactor for it just in a nylon sock.

[reefwars]

No I'm not running the phos reactor, I'll do a test and see what it is. My Duncan was opening up this morning which is good. I'm wondering if I was stripping too much out of the water before, I was running quite a bit of gfo. I'm going to add carbon this morning as well, I don't have a reactor for it just in a nylon sock.


its possible but i doubt it , i run on a 25g tank what some people run in a year for gfo. im running about a half a reactor full of gfo that goes fast.

now its possible as a whole, to be stripping too many things out , but theres always going to be a tiny bit phoshate always being produced or added....if there wasnt you would have no life in your tank and it would all be dead;)


how much at what brand are you using??


changing the carbon out for new stuff is a good idea.

do you run socks??

[coolhandgoose]

Ya I run a filter sock and change it out every few days when it starts overflowing.

I had about 2 cups of brs gfo in the reactor.

I'm also hoping that the cheato I've added will aid in phosphate removal.

[coolhandgoose]

Phosphate right now is .08

[coolhandgoose]

What's a good spectrum bulb to use for growing cheato. Right now I have a 13watt cfl at 2700k.

[Proteus]

I use a 6500k bulb

[coolhandgoose]

What wattage?

[Proteus]

I think it's equivalent to a 100w. I got it at Walmart.

[coolhandgoose]

Here is a full tank shot, sorry for the blueness.

http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab227/coolhandgoose/photo1-25.jpg

I think it's looking much cleaner so far.

A pic of some brown clove polyps, a couple of leathers, my maxi min, duncans starting to open up and a fox coral.

http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab227/coolhandgoose/photo3-17.jpg

This is an acan I've had for awhile that's taken quite a beating and is now on the road to recovery.

http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab227/coolhandgoose/photo2-24.jpg

I'll post some more later, gotta go shopping.

[coolhandgoose]

Here's a pic of the sump, the skimmer is starting to produce skimate again.

http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab227/coolhandgoose/photo5-3.jpg

My yellow tang looking a little skinny. Need to work on fattening him up. I feed emerald entree and Pacifica plankton usually every two days. And maybe once a week I rip off some nori that he eats. What else can I feed or should I be doing?

http://i866.photobucket.com/albums/ab227/coolhandgoose/photo3-16.jpg

I also keep moving the fox coral around, it's hard to find a low flow spot in my tank.

[Proteus]

I really liked the new era grazing pucks. All my fish would eat it

[George]

My yellow tang looking a little skinny. Need to work on fattening him up. I feed emerald entree and Pacifica plankton usually every two days. And maybe once a week I rip off some nori that he eats. What else can I feed or should I be doing?

Is that all you feed the tang, every 2 days? no wonder it's a little bit thin. Tang is a grazing machine in the wild and it is constantly searching for food. You should feed it every day and have some kind of algae sheet (nori) or algae block in the tank most of the day for it to graze. I know this will produce a lot of waste but that's a price you pay for keeping tangs. Increase your nutrient exports.

[coolhandgoose]

I really liked the new era grazing pucks. All my fish would eat it

I just watched a video on those, they are really cool, I'm going to look at getting some. Thanks for the suggestion.

[coolhandgoose]

Is that all you feed the tang, every 2 days? no wonder it's a little bit thin. Tang is a grazing machine in the wild and it is constantly searching for food. You should feed it every day and have some kind of algae sheet (nori) or algae block in the tank most of the day for it to graze. I know this will produce a lot of waste but that's a price you pay for keeping tangs. Increase your nutrient exports.

I will definitely up the feeding.

[coolhandgoose]

I just got the marine grazing pucks from wais. So far the only one interested in it is the cleaner shrimp, but the tang is getting closer.

For the first time in a while my tank is pleasant to look at.

Thank you so much to everyone for all of your help and advice. Hopefully the brown snotty crap doesn't reappear.

[reefwars]

I just got the marine grazing pucks from wais. So far the only one interested in it is the cleaner shrimp, but the tang is getting closer.

For the first time in a while my tank is pleasant to look at.

Thank you so much to everyone for all of your help and advice. Hopefully the brown snotty crap doesn't reappear.


glad to help man , its nothing worse tha seeing your tank look like that especially when you do alot with it. im glad its worked so far for you.

ok so to help keep it away : new carbon,new gfo and low photoperiod for a bit.

as the tank gets stable again youll be able to go back to your normal routine:)

cheers and awesome job bud:)

[Proteus]

Hey goose.

Give it a day or so with the pucks. When I used them all my wrasses would devour them. It might help if you put your nose in the container and take a big sniff. Lol. Gross

[coolhandgoose]

Ha that's funny, as soon as I opened the container I took a big whiff, omg powerful stuff lol.
The tang was nipping at it a bit before lights out, the coral beauty liked it too.
Also do you take the pucks out at night? Do you store them in salt water if you do?
My light cycle is set to 8 hours right now, how long should it be?

[Proteus]

You could take them out if not eaten but then I'd toss it as its breaking down