internal overflow, teeth or not

[Cal_stir]

I am building an internal overflow for a 90g, can't decide on a Beananimal or a Herbie, toothed acrylic box or glass not toothed, any experience or opinions would be appreciated. I want @ 2000gph.

Thanks

[ScubaSteve]

I swear by the beananimal. I've had a couple of times where that 3rd drain line has really saved my butt. It's dead silent and super easy to use.

As for teeth versus no teeth... I did an external overflow with my tank, but there is an acrylic backing to black out the tank of the tank, so I had the option to do both. Ultimately I went with no teeth as I prefer the clean look, the absolute silence and the awesome surface skimming. Now, with that said. I have had a couple critters go for sump rides because of it (though I could put strainers on the drain lines).

What style of overflow box are you thinking of? I think that would weigh in a bit in which direction I'd go.

[Cal_stir]

I'm thinking of the 2400 gph acrylic toothed from BRS

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/sumps-and-refugiums/aquarium-overflows/aquarium-overflow-overflow-box-2400-gph.html

or a DIY 36" glass about the same height and depth of the BRS unit

[Cal_stir]

Anymore experiences or opinions?

[Dez]

Black egg crate. I love it.

[Madmak]

48" wide internal overflow with 2 rows of black eggcrate and a bean animal style drain - no regrets. http://img.tapatalk.com/464b85f3-2451-a878.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/464b85f3-249d-6a8c.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/464b85f3-24da-b7b7.jpg

[Cal_stir]

Decision made, C2C glass, toothless, beananimal with eggcrate.

Thanks for the help guys and the pics Madmak.

[justincgdick]

Late to the party, but I agree, no teeth and Beananimal. You don't need to get all fancy with the Beananimal though... I set mine up like a Herbie. One drain fully submerged about 1/3 of the way from the top of the OF, another open standpipe at the waterline you wish to maintain, and the third open at the MAX ever water line. You just have to test that the open standpipes will handle the entire flow if it ever gets to that point. Mine handled it no problem so I can't see the reason for the sanitary tees, air line, and the "flush" feature.

I'm also not sure how it happens, but my system finds this balance where the main drain is full syphon and the water ISN'T trickling down the open standpipe. It just floats in between... meaning it's a perfect balance. I though the water would eventually drop the the level of the main drain, or increase to trickle down the open pipe, but it hasn't in days.

[Cal_stir]

Mine is an internal with the bulkheads out the back so I need the Tees.

[Madmak]

Mine is an internal with the bulkheads out the back so I need the Tees.

And no need for sanitary tees, regular ones are fine. I used 1" all round and dial my main siphon down quite a bit to match my 1200GPH return pump.

The vented secondary is to be set up to turn in to a full siphon fast if a problem occurs. It also helps the system settle in quickly after power up.

The emergency stays dry unless the sky is falling.

One touchy area is the amount of pipe below the water line in the sump. Too deep and the full siphon won't settle in at all. I went down to about 1.5" and it seems ok. If this is wrong it can seem like the whole system is crap and impossible to dial in.

[Cal_stir]

Thanks for the tips, have you tried running the drain in a filter sock?

[Madmak]

I haven't as I use a tray for the socks. No reason why you can't but they get a bit noisy that way when full.