Beginner in need of some advice

[Faithinc]

So I've been trolling around the saltwater-reefkeeping-wallet-burning hobby for almost a year now. After doing arguably more research than my last year of university, I've made the leap--I bought a tank! I'll throw my start-up basics out there and what in intend to purchase in the coming months before starting, but the big question I have involves water, drainage and the essential set-up of the system. (I've only got the tank/stand/sump/lights at the moment)


-55g Tall aquarium 36x18x22" (-2" height due to bulkheads)
-30g 3 stage Sump 24x12x24 (Skimmer>Refuge>/Carbon baffle/>return)
-Vertex 120 (or) BM Nac7 Skimmer (leaning towards Nac 6/7 due to footprint size in a small sump)
-Vertex Illumix 36" LEDs (single strip w/ option to expand later-blue/white combo)
-2x Powerheads (700gph/550gphs)
-Planning on 5lbs Fiji LR w/ 1" Sand bed for a base.
-Cleaning crew
-Planning 4 fish and mostly LPS, mushrooms, and 1 anemone (eventually if I can keep everything alive)


1) Does a dual drilled tank (2 drains) with drilled return need a pump to extract (suck) water from the tank, or will gravity do the work for me? Bulkheads are 1" (600gph) with 3 90's to enter the sump. I've throwing around an idea to install a screw-90 into the bulkhead facing down and 1 facing up. That way if the one downward facing drain can't compensate and begins to over-flow due to excess water being pumped in, the 90' facing up should cover the system to stop flooding... or am I crazy?

2) What size of return pump would I need? Is there a risk of flooding (via pumping too much water back in) or a risk of not being able to drain enough?

3) The inevitable light question! Will 1 strip of Vertex LED's cover my initial tank

4) and finally... what's the best way to jump into getting the system set up. Live rock + sand then dump in water? or water then sand+rock?

Thanks for reading !:mrgreen:!

[ReefOcean]

So I've been trolling around the saltwater-reefkeeping-wallet-burning hobby for almost a year now. After doing arguably more research than my last year of university, I've made the leap--I bought a tank! I'll throw my start-up basics out there and what in intend to purchase in the coming months before starting, but the big question I have involves water, drainage and the essential set-up of the system. (I've only got the tank/stand/sump/lights at the moment)


-55g Tall aquarium 36x18x22" (-2" height due to bulkheads)
-30g 3 stage Sump 24x12x24 (Skimmer>Refuge>/Carbon baffle/>return)
-Vertex 120 (or) BM Nac7 Skimmer (leaning towards Nac 6/7 due to footprint size in a small sump)
-Vertex Illumix 36" LEDs (single strip w/ option to expand later-blue/white combo)
-2x Powerheads (700gph/550gphs)
-Planning on 5lbs Fiji LR w/ 1" Sand bed for a base.
-Cleaning crew
-Planning 4 fish and mostly LPS, mushrooms, and 1 anemone (eventually if I can keep everything alive)


1) Does a dual drilled tank (2 drains) with drilled return need a pump to extract (suck) water from the tank, or will gravity do the work for me? Bulkheads are 1" (600gph) with 3 90's to enter the sump. I've throwing around an idea to install a screw-90 into the bulkhead facing down and 1 facing up. That way if the one downward facing drain can't compensate and begins to over-flow due to excess water being pumped in, the 90' facing up should cover the system to stop flooding... or am I crazy?

2) What size of return pump would I need? Is there a risk of flooding (via pumping too much water back in) or a risk of not being able to drain enough?

3) The inevitable light question! Will 1 strip of Vertex LED's cover my initial tank

4) and finally... what's the best way to jump into getting the system set up. Live rock + sand then dump in water? or water then sand+rock?

Thanks for reading !:mrgreen:!

You should consider using a buddle magus skimmer. More bang for the buck.

Also, ever since installing a beananimal overflow I will promote it whenever I can. It is quiet and extremely safe.

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

it would involve drilling another hole. Basically, you have 3 holes at the same level. One is used as a siphon, one is open to air and is used for any remaining water and one for emergencies. You set the siphoning pipe with a ball/gate valve so that the second overflow is only taking in 5-10 percent of the water. This creates a silent (and I mean silent, my return pump is louder) overflow with no loud gurgling. In case one pipe gets clogged, you have the back-up pipe.

If you consider doing this, I would be happy to help.

[monocus]

vertex illumilux does not have great par-also you would only need a 2' light over 3'.i picked up some chinese made fixtures at 3 watts per led for $68 that have the same par as the vertex at 1/3 of the cost-just stipulated to them that i wanted a mix of white and blue

[ReefOcean]

ATI Sunpower T5 fixture does any job. If you aren't going for a Sol, Illumina or Radion I wouldnt gamble. Not worth it. I too have a Chinese fixture and I am not too impressed.

[Faithinc]

You should consider using a buddle magus skimmer. More bang for the buck.

Also, ever since installing a beananimal overflow I will promote it whenever I can. It is quiet and extremely safe.

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

it would involve drilling another hole. Basically, you have 3 holes at the same level. One is used as a siphon, one is open to air and is used for any remaining water and one for emergencies. You set the siphoning pipe with a ball/gate valve so that the second overflow is only taking in 5-10 percent of the water. This creates a silent (and I mean silent, my return pump is louder) overflow with no loud gurgling. In case one pipe gets clogged, you have the back-up pipe.

If you consider doing this, I would be happy to help.

I've read the Beananimal style of drainage...and I understand most of it--however, I would need to essentially re-design the tank including re-drilling the holes, which I don't really have the equipment for. Right now I've got a plastic wall sectioning off the back right corner of the tank (about 15% of the tank) that goes from top to bottom. I'd need to remove that, drill the hole, built a 3" drainage box for the top to be able to use Beananimals methods.... is it really worth it? Especially on my first saltwater tank?

[Sunee]

I have a 60 gallon and have a Herbie style drain system, 1" primary drain with a gate valve, the second 1" is the emergency drain. There is a 3/4" return returning about 250 to 300 gph (you could go higher with the 1" drain) - return pump is the Tunze silence 1073.20. The system is dead silent an I've had it running for about 10 months with no problem. It is an option for you.

[ReefOcean]

I've read the Beananimal style of drainage...and I understand most of it--however, I would need to essentially re-design the tank including re-drilling the holes, which I don't really have the equipment for. Right now I've got a plastic wall sectioning off the back right corner of the tank (about 15% of the tank) that goes from top to bottom. I'd need to remove that, drill the hole, built a 3" drainage box for the top to be able to use Beananimals methods.... is it really worth it? Especially on my first saltwater tank?

Most fish stores will drill. As for the box, it is very easy to make. All you need is a 10 dollar cutter, some sort of straight edge, silicone and some glass.

I think it is very much worth it and anybody that has one will probably say the same thing. The added security against a flood is worth it by itself. The fact it makes little noise compared to other overflows is an awsome added bonus. BTW, you don't need a box that extends the entire length of the tank like in the diagram. The added space the box will take up will be small.

[ReefOcean]

I have a 60 gallon and have a Herbie style drain system, 1" primary drain with a gate valve, the second 1" is the emergency drain. There is a 3/4" return returning about 250 to 300 gph (you could go higher with the 1" drain) - return pump is the Tunze silence 1073.20. The system is dead silent an I've had it running for about 10 months with no problem. It is an option for you.



Or this^^^.

The 3rd overflow is merely a fail-safe. You get the same silent operation from the one Sunee describes.

[monocus]

i use stockman drains-never had a problem in 7 years and they fit in tight places.i also have no noise with them.i agree most chinese fixtures are a piece of dung-but i was impressed with the two i bought which are a basic strip with 9 3 watt crees with lenses in a housing for the 2' and the 4 foot has 18 leds.for the price i paid i couldn't complain.and as i said the par is the same as the illumenex at 3 times the price

[Faithinc]

So I've got 1 return pipe with a 90 directed down into the over-flow (Like Beananimals) and the second 90 is pointing upwards (again like bean-animal).

So I've got my over-flow drainage and my over-flow protection, both will drain down into the sump. For the return then... with 3 elbows and 4 foot of head back into the tank, I would require a 600+ gps return pump... is that correct?

[ReefOcean]

So I've got 1 return pipe with a 90 directed down into the over-flow (Like Beananimals) and the second 90 is pointing upwards (again like bean-animal).

So I've got my over-flow drainage and my over-flow protection, both will drain down into the sump. For the return then... with 3 elbows and 4 foot of head back into the tank, I would require a 600+ gps return pump... is that correct?

2 overflows is a Herbie. I am gathering you will have 2 right? not 3? Yes one elbow facinng down(for siphon) and one up(for air injected overflow). Make sure you gate/ball valve the siphon overflow pipe. If you go beananimal with 3 overflows, completely different setup of pipes. only the emergency is facing up. 1 inch for the overflows is good and 3/4 for return (just use hose and have it go over the lip of the tank. 400-600gph is good as the sump shouldnt be providing the brunt of your water turnover.