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View Full Version : Basement built thread. Getting city permit with my awesome drawing :-)


Coleus
02-08-2012, 07:29 PM
Here is what i want for my basement
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=237&pictureid=5204 The total living area is 1038 sqft. without the furnace room

and anyone know a good contractor and what is the average price per sqt full finish including subfloor with carpet/laminate floor?


Getting a quote 24K without fixture and flooring.


Try to save some money so i can put it in the fish tank lol

Coralgurl
02-08-2012, 07:34 PM
pm sent

Delphinus
02-08-2012, 07:37 PM
When I started my basement build I asked around and got quotes anywhere from $30/sqft to $60/sqft. I ended up doing all the work myself. The downside is time. If you're your own contractor you can't get mad if it takes too long to finish. :lol:

The Grizz
02-08-2012, 07:38 PM
Thats a big price tag!!! I am so glad that I am able to do everything myself, it takes a little longer but I save a ton of cash.

Coleus
02-08-2012, 07:38 PM
When I started my basement build I asked around and got quotes anywhere from $30/sqft to $60/sqft. I ended up doing all the work myself. The downside is time. If you're your own contractor you can't get mad if it takes too long to finish. :lol:

want to do mine? lol :-)

Coleus
02-08-2012, 07:40 PM
Thats a big price tag!!! I am so glad that I am able to do everything myself, it takes a little longer but I save a ton of cash.

I can do it but afraid i will screw it up just like how i did to my old house. Don't want it to happen again

Delphinus
02-08-2012, 07:54 PM
want to do mine? lol :-)

Hah, if you're OK that I come and do the work between midnight and 4am, sure ! :lol:

You'd be amazed what your family can learn to sleep through.


Thats a big price tag!!! I am so glad that I am able to do everything myself, it takes a little longer but I save a ton of cash.

I hear you. You can certainly save a lot and in all fairness some of it is actually kind of fun. I sort of see it both ways: I understand why it costs a lot, but on the other hand .. it costs a lot! :lol:

kien
02-08-2012, 07:56 PM
Opportunity cost. Sure you can save a lot of money by doing it yourself, but getting someone else to do will also free you up to do other things, like spend time with your family, sit around and admire your tank (or curse your tank).

Not everyone can afford to burn that kind of money on a reno, but not everyone can burn those kinds of hours spent on a reno either.

At any rate, perhaps look into the middle of the road options as well. That is, instead of getting one person (or company) to do the whole thing, break it down into parts or smaller projects like, framing, drywelling/mudding/taping, electrical, etc, and maybe do the smaller easier projects yourself while hiring someone else to do the bigger "projects".

Of course, if you can afford to have someone come in and do the entire thing you mind as well :lol:

Coleus
02-08-2012, 08:02 PM
Opportunity cost.

OMG, you remind me of economic 101 all over again. Does breaking down will be cheaper than one person do it all?

kien
02-08-2012, 08:03 PM
OMG, you remind me of economic 101 all over again.

is that a good or a bad thing? :lol:

Coralgurl
02-08-2012, 08:05 PM
The nice thing about hiring someone over doing it yourself is that it actually gets finished. My bf owns a home building company, knows how to do a basement and started ours....5 years ago....still not finished. Last thing he wants to do after 12-15 hour days. The hard part is he doesn't want to pay someone to finish it either....even though it seriously should only take a couple of weekends to wrap up. We've brought in electricians and plumbers, he did the drywalling himself and it looks like it...if you can do some yourself, great, get the family to help.

Delphinus
02-08-2012, 08:15 PM
OMG, you remind me of economic 101 all over again. Does breaking down will be cheaper than one person do it all?

I doubt it, but it would have the benefit of spreading the cost out somewhat rather than a lump sum.

kien
02-08-2012, 08:25 PM
OMG, you remind me of economic 101 all over again. Does breaking down will be cheaper than one person do it all?

The last few times I renovated (two basements and a total kitchen reno) it was cheaper for me to part it out. I think it all boils down to who you contact and what contractors you hire. Some of them will try to do the whole thing themselves which may be a good or a bad thing I dunno. Some of them will part out and if they part out they will either give you the cost of the sub-contracted labour or mark it up to make a few bucks out of it themselves.

I guess you won't really know unless you add up all the numbers.

Coleus
02-08-2012, 08:34 PM
The last few times I renovated (two basements and a total kitchen reno) it was cheaper for me to part it out. I think it all boils down to who you contact and what contractors you hire. Some of them will try to do the whole thing themselves which may be a good or a bad thing I dunno. Some of them will part out and if they part out they will either give you the cost of the sub-contracted labour or mark it up to make a few bucks out of it themselves.

I guess you won't really know unless you add up all the numbers.

got any good contact for me? So to break it down, here is what i need?


1) framing + dry wall guy

2) plumber

3) electrician

4) muding / taping

5) painting

6) flooring guy

Does this sounds right?

Aquattro
02-08-2012, 08:37 PM
1) framing + dry wall guy

2) plumber

3) electrician

4) muding / taping

5) painting

6) flooring guy

Does this sounds right?

Insulation. Duct work if you have a furnace/forced air.

kien
02-08-2012, 08:41 PM
got any good contact for me? So to break it down, here is what i need?


1) framing + dry wall guy

2) plumber

3) electrician

4) muding / taping

5) painting

6) flooring guy

Does this sounds right?

My dad is a contractor and him and I used to do a lot of jobs. I would give you his contact but he's really busy these days and typically doesn't like to work in Airdrie :lol: sorry.

Your list looks right, minus a lot of the details, like doors, trim, etc.. I would agree with Tony in that it probably wouldn't be cost effective if you hire individual contractors to do ALL the projects. However, if you can say, do the framing, flooring and painting yourself, then you stand to save a lot of money by just hiring a mudder and taper, an electrician and plumber, etc.

toxic111
02-08-2012, 08:42 PM
got any good contact for me? So to break it down, here is what i need?


1) framing + dry wall guy

2) plumber

3) electrician

4) muding / taping

5) painting

6) flooring guy

Does this sounds right?

Need a finisher (trims, hanging doors)

& that would just about cover it.

24K without flooring is probably very close if you get someone to take care of everything. You might be 5K less if you act as your own general contractor.

I did my entire basement myself for under 15K (closer to 10K I think, never added the $$ up) It took me 3 years to do though. But my bacground is construction/design, the only thing I didn't do myself is electrcial (friend is an journyman) & the drywall. Oh, carpet in 2 bedrooms & floor tile in the bathroom was hired out. I did everything else, including a tiled shower.

Being your own general contractor is not that difficult, but you will need some time to follow up on subs.

toxic111
02-08-2012, 08:43 PM
HVAC too, depending on how the duct work is to begin with.

Coleus
02-08-2012, 08:51 PM
My dad is a contractor and him and I used to do a lot of jobs. I would give you his contact but he's really busy these days and typically doesn't like to work in Airdrie :lol: sorry.

Your list looks right, minus a lot of the details, like doors, trim, etc.. I would agree with Tony in that it probably wouldn't be cost effective if you hire individual contractors to do ALL the projects. However, if you can say, do the framing, flooring and painting yourself, then you stand to save a lot of money by just hiring a mudder and taper, an electrician and plumber, etc.

Hmm, last time i checked my house address, it is in Calgary and property tax mailed to be is by City of Calgary so not sure why you keep saying i live in Airdrie so maybe he will give me an estimate?

kien
02-08-2012, 08:53 PM
Hmm, last time i checked my house address, it is in Calgary and property tax mailed to be is by City of Calgary so not sure why you keep saying i live in Airdrie so maybe he will give me an estimate?

hehe, i'm just kidding (sort of), but he doesn't like driving north to work. He has enough jobs in the south to keep him busy so he typically doesn't take any jobs up north, sorry :(

mark
02-08-2012, 09:32 PM
where's the fish tank?

Coleus
02-08-2012, 09:35 PM
right beside the wet bar

Seriak
02-08-2012, 09:38 PM
And the kicker is, or at least that is what my real estate agent tells me. If you sell your house you really only get 10-15k depending on whether you have a bathroom or not. Pretty much a break even prospect if you do it yourself and a loss if you hire someone.

He told me not to bother to develop my basement if I was going to sell soon.

I would try to do what you can yourself. There is also the permit issue you will have to deal with.

lockrookie
02-08-2012, 11:48 PM
i hope not to impose but i took liberty to change your floor plan in what i would do if it was me and i had that floor plan. first id do majority work mysef save for plumbing and electrical. although i think a curved br in middle would look really cool infront of the fish tank running the plumbing under the false floor would work ok but hey you get a 10' tank this way and fish room
http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af103/lockrookie/floorplan-1.jpg

Coleus
02-09-2012, 01:22 AM
i hope not to impose but i took liberty to change your floor plan in what i would do if it was me and i had that floor plan. first id do majority work mysef save for plumbing and electrical. although i think a curved br in middle would look really cool infront of the fish tank running the plumbing under the false floor would work ok but hey you get a 10' tank this way and fish room
http://i998.photobucket.com/albums/af103/lockrookie/floorplan-1.jpg

The posted plan was my old plan so i welcome any suggestions. My current plan has the fish tank the same spot as you. To move the bathroom out a little bit can be a pain because all the plumbing is already rough in. But yeah any better design or suggestion is welcome

Cheers

sphelps
02-09-2012, 02:59 AM
Realistically you can most of that yourself, anyone can really. Everything you need to know is on the web.

First get your permits.

Next framing, this is the easiest and quickest part. Keep your hallways 36" or wider, frame the doors properly (2" wider than door size or you purchase pocket door kits and they go in with framing), 32" door for the furnace room and that's pretty much it. Get it inspected and if you pass then you know you did it right.

Electrical next, honestly scares people but it's super basic stuff. Again it will be inspected so any problems will be pointed out and you can fix them.

Plumbing next, use all pex fittings to avoid soldering. You can pressure test lines if you're worried about leaks and again inspection will be required. I see no shower so that's easy but check your rough in positions and DO NOT be afraid to break up your concrete, it's not only easy but lots of fun.

Next hang your drywall. Pretty easy as well if you have someone to help you. Measure your walls and plan to hang the boards horizontal, for example if one wall is 12 feet long order 2 12ft sheets for it. There is a glue you can use to stick the drywall to the framing which means less screws which is good. Planning for a flat ceiling is cheapest, you put ceiling drywall up first, princess auto sells a lift that works fine and will make your life much easier.
You can order drywall from Alberta Drywall exactly how you need it online, they deliver right into your basement for $75!

Higher a mud and tape guy, don't do this yourself. I know a guy, super cheap and really good, shoot me a PM when you're ready.

Doors usually go in next, prehung doors are only $100 a piece and go in easy. Make sure you plan ahead with left or right hinge to match where your light switch is and when you do the framing make sure one side of the door frame is perfectly level so you can just screw your doors up to that side and then shim the other side.

To get to this point I'd estimate under $8000.

After that it's all finishing stuff which is where some expertise and experience is needed for things like flooring and cabinetry but casings and baseboards are simple things.

Nano
02-09-2012, 03:41 AM
Next hang your drywall. Pretty easy as well if you have someone to help you. Measure your walls and plan to hang the boards horizontal, for example if one wall is 12 feet long order 2 12ft sheets for it. There is a glue you can use to stick the drywall to the framing which means less screws which is good. Planning for a flat ceiling is cheapest, you put ceiling drywall up first, princess auto sells a lift that works fine and will make your life much easier.
You can order drywall from Alberta Drywall exactly how you need it online, they deliver right into your basement for $75!
I agree for the most part here as I did drywall and taping for 6 years, the only pain can be getting 12' sheets into a basement a lot of the time, unless you can get them down your stairs or through a window. If you use glue, make sure its only the interior walls, dont use it on the exterior walls that are on the foundation. IMO in a basement, its nice to have the drywalled ceiling, however, its always to have access to your pluming via panels in the ceiling or just a straight t-bar ceiling. If i live done in calgary still, I would be more then happy to do your taping and what not for you. but thats not going to happen as I'm 2 1/2 hours away! Keep us posted, feel free to ask me any questions about the taping and what not, anything from insulation, to paint is my general area of expertise. its what I went to school for, before I went to school for business and sales lol:lol:

fishytime
02-09-2012, 03:43 AM
I know someone that can get the whole shebang done mang:wink:......lemme know if you want me to put you in touch with him....

outacontrol
02-09-2012, 04:04 AM
I did most of my basement 2 years ago cost me 10,000 for the main living area, hallway landing area, bedroom and the stairs. I did all the work myself except the taping and carpet, taping was 1,000 and carpet was about 4500.
I learned to shop around, found several places to buy things at much better deals than HD.
Too bad your in Calgary I know a pretty good electrician here in Edmonton, lol.

Coleus
02-09-2012, 04:32 PM
Wow, lots of information to chew on. I guess my first step will draw it out and get city permit and call around to get all quotes together. More money i save, more money i can put toward the tank i guess.


I see no shower so that's easy but check your rough in positions and DO NOT be afraid to break up your concrete, it's not only easy but lots of fun.



There is a full bath if you look at my sketch :-) not look rookie. Also it is walk out basement and the contractor told me that it must have reforce bar steel so it can be lots of work to move things around.



To get to this point I'd estimate under $8000.


Hmm, now there is motivation to get it done myself lol


Thanks for everyone inputs and keep it coming

sphelps
02-09-2012, 05:31 PM
Sorry I was looking at the sketch with a fish room. Either way a shower isn't hard. Is it all roughed in? Pee trap installed already for the shower?

I'm not sure about the reinforced steel, my basement is walk out and that wasn't the the case with me. On the plus side walk outs are perfect for getting large sheet of drywall in :biggrin:

My basement is in the works as well, at the stage drywall is all done and primed. I have record of all the expenses if you're interested I can post more details.

sphelps
02-09-2012, 05:58 PM
Well I think I'll just post some details anyway.

This before anything happened....
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/DSC_6460.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/DSC_6461.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/DSC_6462.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/DSC_6463.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/DSC_6464.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/DSC_6465.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/DSC_6466.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/DSC_6467.jpg

sphelps
02-09-2012, 06:09 PM
Here's the plan, basement is about 1400sqft, Carpet was only put in the two bedrooms and the shower is not really as shown.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/Basement.jpg

Here's the expenses to date, should give you a good idea. It's kind of unorganized as we just entered receipts as we got them so to find totals for framing, electrical or whatever a little math is needed:

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/Basementexpenses1.jpg

Certain things can save you money like we spend quite a bit on the shower, I think around $2800 so far, and underfloor heating can be expensive as well. Anything you see on there with a description being totem, lowes or whatever you can probably omit as something critical.

sphelps
02-09-2012, 06:18 PM
And here's some more recent pics.

Fish room is in the bar pantry:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/16_01_2012_1.jpg

The bar area, note we're doing suspended ceilings most places, if I can find the right stuff.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/16_01_2012_2.jpg

Hallway to bedrooms:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/16_01_2012_3.jpg

Living/game area or whatever you want to call it:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/16_01_2012_4.jpg

Spare room 1, not done yet.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/16_01_2012_5.jpg

Spare room 2, almost done, just baseboards.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/16_01_2012_6.jpg

And this my bathroom/shower, actually just about done now.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/16_01_2012_7.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/16_01_2012_8.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/House/16_01_2012_9.jpg

Hopefully that helps a little. Honestly I'm no expert, before we bought this house I had next to no experience with any of this, majority of it was first time but it's not rocket science, if I can do it, anyone can.

lastlight
02-09-2012, 06:21 PM
You guys and your walkouts! To get 12 footers into the basement is a godsend!

I think you could do a lot of the work yourself. At the very least dricore, putting the drywall up and painting are easy as pie.

If you suck at taping don't do it! It will take you forever and you can't undo how crappy that looks later.

Coleus
02-09-2012, 07:48 PM
Either way a shower isn't hard. Is it all roughed in? Pee trap installed already for the shower?

yeah, everything is rough in that is why i hesitate to move things around

I'm not sure about the reinforced steel, my basement is walk out and that wasn't the the case with me. On the plus side walk outs are perfect for getting large sheet of drywall in :biggrin:
Well there is no way i can find this out unless start digging, hmmm

But here is what i have for my latest floor plan


http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=237&pictureid=5227

sphelps
02-09-2012, 07:56 PM
I don't really like the bedroom, that space between the bed and closet appears to be pretty awkward.

Is it possible to use the space under the stairs as a closet, move the bedding area where the closet is now and use the rest of it for a nice desk?

sphelps
02-09-2012, 07:58 PM
You guys and your walkouts! To get 12 footers into the basement is a godsend!


And 14 footers :mrgreen:

Coleus
02-09-2012, 08:14 PM
I don't really like the bedroom, that space between the bed and closet appears to be pretty awkward.

Is it possible to use the space under the stairs as a closet, move the bedding area where the closet is now and use the rest of it for a nice desk?

Initially, i plan to put the bed where the closet is now but there is no window in that area so it will be dark. The only window it has right now is right above where the bed is now.


you just remind me that i am missing a fireplace lol, hmm now where can i put that

Coleus
02-09-2012, 08:15 PM
You guys and your walkouts! To get 12 footers into the basement is a godsend!
And 14 footers :mrgreen:


wish i have space to fits that long tank. Can you even get a glass tank that long?

sphelps
02-09-2012, 08:32 PM
wish i have space to fits that long tank. Can you even get a glass tank that long?

14' is pretty standard for the longest glass sheet without getting into something ridiculous.

As for the bedroom, You're not going to want light above the bed, it's everywhere else you'll want it.

Coleus
02-10-2012, 04:02 AM
Alright first step, I am reading the brochure here http://www.calgary.ca/PDA/DBA/Documents/brochures/basement_development.pdf

I got my sketch up here. How do i print out in scale like requirement "Plans must be drawn to scale, preferably ¼”=1’
or 1:50 in metric (the accepted minimum scale is
3/16”=1’)"

Thanks

toxic111
02-10-2012, 04:06 AM
What did you use to do the sketch?? I don't know if you have enough info on there to get your permit either. I don't know how they are there. Here you would be light. But drawings is what I do for a living

Coleus
02-10-2012, 04:10 AM
I use google sketch up to draw it. I think i need a full Floor Plans that " to show the layouts, dimensions and
use of existing and proposed rooms and spaces;
details of structural changes, if proposed; the size of
windows and doors; and the number of additional
plumbing fixtures being installed"

Is there any better tool out there to do this?

Nate
02-10-2012, 04:29 AM
Did my basement from start to finish, 1450 sq ft bungalow, for give or take 11,000 including a 500 gallon penninsula tank as one wall of the theatre. I did however have a full bath down there which helped tremendously with costs

It helps tonnes if you do a lot of the work yourself.
I did electrical (with the help of an electrician overviewing and giving instruction)
Framed
Insulated
Installed HRV on remote humidstat under supervision of an Hvac neighbor (also a great guy)
Installed Drywall
I painted
I did the finishing woodwork incl baseboards

I contracted out:
Carpet
Mud and tape as indicated
had help with electrical
had someone (spawn from canreef) skin my stand (great guy fantastic work)

All in all it was a 6 month project that burned me out pretty good. Had a baby due in 7.5 months from when we started and finished about 2 weeks before she was born (3 weeks early). Definitely worth it. I know I would not have been able to do it now if I were to even think about it.

Worked very well for us as with a bungalow we pretty much doubled our living space (more room for kids toys)

If I ever think of it, I'll post some pix

toxic111
02-10-2012, 04:57 AM
I use google sketch up to draw it. I think i need a full Floor Plans that " to show the layouts, dimensions and
use of existing and proposed rooms and spaces;
details of structural changes, if proposed; the size of
windows and doors; and the number of additional
plumbing fixtures being installed"

Is there any better tool out there to do this?

You should be able to print something to the right scale from there. I don't like it & find it hard to use. There are some other programs out there. Just don't know of free ones. If I was closer I would horse trade you for the drawings.

lastlight
02-10-2012, 05:26 AM
Nate I forgot carpet. Something else I always pay to have installed. My knees could never stand up to kicking in the stuff... nor do I have the experience to do it properly.

Tai I drew the plans for my last basement up on paper and just put all my measurements on it. Wasn't really too tough at all. Only issue the guy saw was the 32" door for furnace access as Sphelps pointed out.

sphelps
02-10-2012, 02:44 PM
Worst case just get some 1/4" graph paper and draw out your plans by hand, 8-/12 x 11 should fit 34ft x 44ft if that's not big enough you'll have to use 11x17.

Ross
02-10-2012, 03:38 PM
Are you going to be doing the electrical, plumbing, and hvac work yourself?

If not, dont get the permits for the areas that you are not doing.
They have to be raised by the company that is hired to do the work.
Make sure that your contractor does indeed get permits or we may end up seeing your place on Holmes on homes.


The below is extracted from http://www.calgary.ca/PDA/DBA/Documents/brochures/basement_development.pdf

"Applications are accepted in person only. The
Development & Building Approvals customer service
counter is located on the third floor of the Calgary
Municipal Building, 800 Macleod Tr. SE.
What do I need to bring?
Your application must be accompanied by:
• Two sets of Building Plans.
• The names of any contractors who will be working
on your project. Note: Contractors are required to
hold a valid City of Calgary business licence. It is
recommended that you call 3-1-1 before you hire
to confirm the contractor’s licence status.
• Fees - Application fees vary. For more information
call 403-268-5311


If you have any questions call 311 and they can forward you onto the correct departments.

Coleus
02-14-2012, 07:02 PM
As for the bedroom, You're not going to want light above the bed, it's everywhere else you'll want it.

Is it a rule of thumb or some kind of feng shui thing? The window is very high above the ground around 6 feet or so

sphelps
02-14-2012, 07:25 PM
Is it a rule of thumb or some kind of feng shui thing? The window is very high above the ground around 6 feet or so

I know nothing about feng shui or any rules regarding placement of furniture. To me it's just about utilizing space and avoiding empty areas that can't be used for anything. The room itself is pretty big, big enough for a bed and some kind of desk or bedroom vanity, so you should try and incorporate both in your plans. The way you have it laid out now seems to result in a large open space in front of the closet which seems like it can't be used for anything without blocking the closet doors, maybe this isn't the case but it looks that way to me.

If the closet could be moved under the stairs (not sure if it can or not) then the bed could fit where the closet is. This leaves a great area for a desk or other bedroom furniture while keeping things a little more open.

In regard to window over the bed, just seems like a waste to me. Basement windows are ground level so people outside can view in quite easily and with the way the sun never seems to go away in the summer in this country you're going to have to block the window with blinds anyway. Just don't see any advantage for natural light over a bed. Would be better to have the window over the desk/vanity area where natural light is more useful and privacy is less of a concern.

Coleus
02-14-2012, 07:35 PM
If the closet could be moved under the stairs (not sure if it can or not)

Can't, not enough room there

Thanks for your input about saving space. So i came up with 3 layouts so canreefer can help me pick out what would be your favorite

Number 1
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=237&pictureid=5239

Number 2
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=237&pictureid=5238

Number 3
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=237&pictureid=5237

Any other ideas are welcome. Hmm

Coleus
02-14-2012, 07:46 PM
and here is to my latest layout of the fish tank and fish room :-)

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=237&pictureid=5242

lastlight
02-14-2012, 08:03 PM
That could be a fantastic view from the porcelain throne =)

Coleus
02-14-2012, 08:10 PM
That could be a fantastic view from the porcelain throne =)

lol, well there will be a screen door there but sure you can view from porcelain throne if no one around :-)

sphelps
02-14-2012, 08:37 PM
Here's my take on your bedroom given your options.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/Bedroom.jpg

It's your option 1 but I moved the closet into the next room. That's your post in red. You loose a little space in the living room but I think it works better. The extra space in the wall could be used as a linen closet or some sort of built in cabinet or bookshelf.

Queen size bed with headboard and side table. Plus a dresses, L shaped desk and bookshelf seem to fit and work nicely. A wall light on a three way by the bed would be a nice addition as well.

toxic111
02-14-2012, 08:46 PM
Here is what I would do... http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o258/toxic111/20120214141554243_0001.jpg

Leaves a decent closet size, room for a desk & dresser. Be a good kids room, I would use a double bed, even for a guest room.

Coleus
02-14-2012, 08:55 PM
Here's my take on your bedroom given your options.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/Bedroom.jpg

It's your option 1 but I moved the closet into the next room. That's your post in red. You loose a little space in the living room but I think it works better. The extra space in the wall could be used as a linen closet or some sort of built in cabinet or bookshelf.

Queen size bed with headboard and side table. Plus a dresses, L shaped desk and bookshelf seem to fit and work nicely. A wall light on a three way by the bed would be a nice addition as well.

Interesting idea, unfortunately, the other room is my home theatre which i want to have 14' from the screen to sofa. Also i may not have good location for a TV for this bedroom. What about option 2? what do you think?

Coleus
02-14-2012, 08:57 PM
Here is what I would do... http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o258/toxic111/20120214141554243_0001.jpg

Leaves a decent closet size, room for a desk & dresser. Be a good kids room, I would use a double bed, even for a guest room.
Thanks, hmm two closet instead of one. Interesting idea as well

sphelps
02-14-2012, 09:13 PM
Option 2 is ok but it's a bit awkward to move around the bed to get to the closet. Maybe with a double bed it's OK as you'll have 24" but a queen would be too tight. That's also provided the measurements are right, if you have to add 4" of wall to either side it makes even tighter. It also just looks strange IMO, I don't think you should ever have to walk around furniture to get to key locations within a room.

Is there a reason you need 14' rather than say 12' for the projection? I'm putting in a 92" screen and I think I'll be sitting around 10' from it in my basement. In any case I'd still do option 1 but move the closet a little further from the window so it's not right up against it.

Coleus
02-14-2012, 09:16 PM
Is there a reason you need 14' rather than say 12' for the projection? I'm putting in a 92" screen and I think I'll be sitting around 10' from it in my basement. In any case I'd still do option 1 but move the closet a little further from the window so it's not right up against it.

I am putting the 120" screen in and I read on internet that i need 14' away from 3D projector that i am going to buy. I have about 32 inch not including the dry wall yet from the wall to edge of window. Do you think i have enough room for standard closet? I read and they said the standard size is 27 inch, is this true?

sphelps
02-14-2012, 09:25 PM
I am putting the 120" screen in and I read on internet that i need 14' away from 3D projector that i am going to buy

Have you played around with other layouts for the rest of the basement? You probably got a large window directly behind your screen. It might be better positioned where your fish room is now.

Coleus
02-14-2012, 09:35 PM
here is my current layout. Initially i was going to put the projector where the fish tank is now but it does not give me good place to put the wet bar and fish tank without doing a major concrete cutting. Plus all bathroom stuff are already rough in so moving it to some where else would be costly.


http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=237&pictureid=5246

sphelps
02-14-2012, 10:14 PM
Are those two extra sinks roughed in?

Coleus
02-14-2012, 10:17 PM
Are those two extra sinks roughed in?

The one at the bar is not yet but it can hook to the one in the bath room, the one in the fish room i can run the drain above the floor because i am not going to finish it except for putting dry wall in

lockrookie
02-14-2012, 10:25 PM
the fish can watch you and you them whileyour soaking in the tub lol

lastlight
02-14-2012, 10:33 PM
Your font choice is far too playful. The city will send you packing =)

sphelps
02-15-2012, 12:17 AM
Sinks have to vented in a certain way, I'm not a plumber but I'm pretty sure you can't just tie sinks in together especially since I believe the toilet and the shower are actually using the sink vent. Be sure to verify exactly how that all needs to be connected with a plumber before getting too far.

Personally I think I'd move the bathroom rough ins a little, reposition everything so the bathroom runs the other way and eats up some of that mechanical room space. Make the bar a u-shape and push that into the mechanical room as well, then put the tank in wall behind the bar so the fish room can go in the mechanical room. Fish rooms that eat up floor space will kill your resale.

Coleus
02-15-2012, 01:55 AM
Your font choice is far too playful. The city will send you packing =)
I have to live with the 3D text that in google sketch, can't find 2D one

Sinks have to vented in a certain way, I'm not a plumber but I'm pretty sure you can't just tie sinks in together especially since I believe the toilet and the shower are actually using the sink vent. Be sure to verify exactly how that all needs to be connected with a plumber before getting too far.
Thanks


Personally I think I'd move the bathroom rough ins a little, reposition everything so the bathroom runs the other way and eats up some of that mechanical room space. Make the bar a u-shape and push that into the mechanical room as well, then put the tank in wall behind the bar so the fish room can go in the mechanical room. Fish rooms that eat up floor space will kill your resale.
Can't move any further because they design it so that the furnace is right behind the sink and toilet. Can't move any further back :-(. Maybe you don't mind draw me some pict of your idea. I can't figure it out sorry

Here is the furnace in place
the fish can watch you and you them whileyour soaking in the tub lol

Yeah and they will go blind after that :-D

Coleus
02-15-2012, 03:17 AM
i can't edit the post again so here is the pict

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=237&pictureid=5272

sphelps
02-15-2012, 04:20 AM
i can't edit the post again so here is the pict

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=237&pictureid=5272
Man I love how they build houses these days...

The Grizz
02-15-2012, 04:31 AM
Sinks have to vented in a certain way


I have a bathroom with a shower and a double sink in the main part of my office that are all tied in together with just one main vent, no issues.

sphelps
02-15-2012, 04:53 AM
I have a bathroom with a shower and a double sink in the main part of my office that are all tied in together with just one main vent, no issues.

Double sinks share a pee trap, so it's no different than a single. In theory if sinks are close enough you could do the same but with sinks in different rooms I doubt it meets code. I'm pretty sure you can tie into the sink vent a certain way but I also think the size of the vent depends on the number of drains. Chances are the floor drain in the mech room is also sharing the bathroom vent and he's adding two more drains. So it's something to look into.

Coleus
02-15-2012, 05:18 AM
Man I love how they build houses these days...

Well the house is 8 years old and maybe the previous owner did not bother where they put it :-(

Delphinus
02-15-2012, 02:29 PM
Double sinks share a pee trap, so it's no different than a single. In theory if sinks are close enough you could do the same but with sinks in different rooms I doubt it meets code. I'm pretty sure you can tie into the sink vent a certain way but I also think the size of the vent depends on the number of drains. Chances are the floor drain in the mech room is also sharing the bathroom vent and he's adding two more drains. So it's something to look into.

I can weigh in on this one. As long as you use a sanitary-T then it meets code. I have this in my basement and it is one of the few things the plumbing inspector passed me on in the first attempt. This is a sink in a mini-kitchen area and a bathroom sink behind the wall and they share a rough-in.

My inspector didn't care so much about any of the water supply lines, only about how things drain and how they vent. So I'm reasonably confident in this assertion - however with the said, code can and does change from time to time.

If ever in doubt however, the best thing to do is ask the city inspection department. Call 311 and ask to speak to the permit inspectors, there will be a manager of the actual inspectors who come to you yours house on phone duty 8am to 4pm, you usually don't have to wait beyond a couple minutes on hold and then you can ask specifically about things that they can pass or not pass. Wish I had known this before my first inspection. I asked a licensed plumber about something and he told me it was code, only to find out it was not code after all and thus failed the inspection. You'd think the professionals would know but they don't always. Just go straight to the source. They'll tell you straight up what they are looking for.

Coleus
02-15-2012, 03:17 PM
I can weigh in on this one. As long as you use a sanitary-T then it meets code. I have this in my basement and it is one of the few things the plumbing inspector passed me on in the first attempt. This is a sink in a mini-kitchen area and a bathroom sink behind the wall and they share a rough-in.

My inspector didn't care so much about any of the water supply lines, only about how things drain and how they vent. So I'm reasonably confident in this assertion - however with the said, code can and does change from time to time.

If ever in doubt however, the best thing to do is ask the city inspection department. Call 311 and ask to speak to the permit inspectors, there will be a manager of the actual inspectors who come to you yours house on phone duty 8am to 4pm, you usually don't have to wait beyond a couple minutes on hold and then you can ask specifically about things that they can pass or not pass. Wish I had known this before my first inspection. I asked a licensed plumber about something and he told me it was code, only to find out it was not code after all and thus failed the inspection. You'd think the professionals would know but they don't always. Just go straight to the source. They'll tell you straight up what they are looking for.

Thanks Tony. So let me understand this. you need different drain for each sink?

sphelps
02-15-2012, 03:33 PM
It's sounds like you can tee them into one drain according to Tony but I was told you also need to run another vent from the new sink and tie that in a certain way as well. Was told if you just tee into the same drain pipe then draining one sink can end up siphoning the other sinks pee trap. Unless you can run a single pee trap but I was never given this option.

toxic111
02-15-2012, 03:37 PM
I know you cannot use a single P-trap, except for a kitchen double sink. If you have 2 bathroom sinks, they would each have thier own trap.

As for your vent, there is usually 1 or maybe 2 common vents in a house. All fixtures have to be vented properly. If you are adding something that is not close to the common vent get a licenced plumber to do it.

The AB code does require the permit for plumbing to be pulled by a licenced plumber. Electrcial you can pull & do yourself.

Delphinus
02-15-2012, 03:59 PM
In Calgary you can get what's called a homeowner's electrical permit and a homeowner's plumbing permit. Ie., you can DIY if you want but they don't lay out the basics of code like they do for electrical. Ie., for electrical they give you a condensed version of the code which is sort of like an inspection cheat sheet (ie., like in school when the teacher say "this is what is going to be on the test.") They don't do this for plumbing, or at least they had nothing like that when I went through this last year. You're expected to know what you need to know, although with the inspections office accessible by 311 you can always phone and ask if you're not sure if something meets code or not.

The inspector never said anything to me about a separate vent from one of the sinks during my rough-in inspections, but then again I haven't had my final inspection yet either so who knows.

Delphinus
02-15-2012, 04:40 PM
Oops, meant to post this link. Better late than never?
http://www.calgary.ca/PDA/DBA/Pages/Home-building-and-renovations/Basement-development/Basement-Development.aspx

sphelps
02-15-2012, 05:04 PM
I think it's all going to depend on the inspector cause we all have different stories for plumbing :lol:

I did have plumber pull my pluming permit cause I had him finish running the gas lines for the furnace and water heater but I changed my bathroom rough in and plumbed the hot and cold water lines in the rest of the house by myself and the inspector had no problem with that. I was told if I wanted a double bathroom sink I could either share a pee trap just like a kitchen sink or I had to run a separate drain pipe and vent. If I wanted a laundry sink in the mechanical room (which I did) I'd have to break open more floor and run a new vent. I also had to change my 1.5" tub drain to a 2" for the stand up shower while a friend of mine in the city didn't have to.

toxic111
02-15-2012, 05:06 PM
must be nice to get that plumbing permit, here they sure don't let us do it ourself.

Electrical yes, everything else yes. Just not the plumbing. You should have seen the fees for a 3 piece bathroom rough-in, no fixtures, just a shower. OUCH!

sphelps
02-15-2012, 05:09 PM
Come to think of it a friend of mine in Calgary pulled a plumbing permit without a plumber for his basement.

Coleus
02-15-2012, 05:46 PM
I am going to get a plumper to run the plumping, I can't event plump my fish tank so don't think i want to take a chance lol.

Electrical on the other hand, it is something i enjoyed doing lol except for the electrical shock part.

Coleus
02-28-2012, 06:24 AM
Well here is my current layout

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=237&pictureid=5296


Problem is i would like to put a laundry tub in the fish room but need to be as close to wash room as possible because of the height to the drain (sharing the drain with the toilet)

I can put the laundry right beside the wall next to the bath tub but then i am need to shorten my desired tank length so i can have a comfort entrance to fish room.

So i am facing dilemma: short tank with laundry sink or longer tank without laundry sink. Maybe some one has a better idea to redesign the whole freaking thing

Thanks

phi delt reefer
02-28-2012, 01:32 PM
coleus

you can replace the bathroom sink with a NICER laundry sink. Home depot and Rona and probably the rest of the big box stores have laundry sinks that kind of look like bathroom vanities - they are deep but have a vanity surround. You can even get them with a spray hose like the kitchen sink. Its a basement bathroom so it doesnt have to be granite and italian ceramics :D


http://www.peeltile.com/img/products/Berkshire%20Laundry%20.jpg

phi delt reefer
02-28-2012, 01:33 PM
2 birds with one stone that way and in the pic i posted you see they have an insert for the sink so i can double as a work area for fragging and what not :D

sphelps
02-28-2012, 02:30 PM
Would it be possible to move the fish room into the mechanical room?

Push the fish tank back against the wall and then some run a few lines from the tank to the mechanical room. The lines would have to go behind the tub but you'd only need a couple inches, just frame the tub a few inches from the exterior wall. This way you get to use the floor drain in the mech room for any spills and when all your construction and work is signed off just add a laundry sink then. You could even just run it right into the floor drain, won't meet code but for what you're using it for it won't matter.

Okguy
02-28-2012, 03:33 PM
Would it be possible to move the fish room into the mechanical room?

Push the fish tank back against the wall and then some run a few lines from the tank to the mechanical room. The lines would have to go behind the tub but you'd only need a couple inches, just frame the tub a few inches from the exterior wall. This way you get to use the floor drain in the mech room for any spills and when all your construction and work is signed off just add a laundry sink then. You could even just run it right into the floor drain, won't meet code but for what you're using it for it won't matter.

+1

If you do this when it's time to sell you can take the tank with you and not alienate potential buyers who do not want a tank in their basement or a fishroom in their bathroom.

I hate how builders waste space and I also have no idea about how plumbing\venting works or if your drawings are to scale but if you move the hot water tank (again I have no idea if this is even possible or the cost involved) to be against the wall between the furnace and the tub you could build a closet around the whole thing and have a fairly sizable extra room.

It would be a fantastic fishroom for you but when it's time to sell it would be a pretty cheap conversion to an office or extra bedroom.

Just a thought...

Coleus
02-28-2012, 04:01 PM
coleus

you can replace the bathroom sink with a NICER laundry sink. Home depot and Rona and probably the rest of the big box stores have laundry sinks that kind of look like bathroom vanities -


Will definitely check out the sink. Thanks

Would it be possible to move the fish room into the mechanical room?

Push the fish tank back against the wall and then some run a few lines from the tank to the mechanical room. The lines would have to go behind the tub but you'd only need a couple inches, just frame the tub a few inches from the exterior wall. This way you get to use the floor drain in the mech room for any spills and when all your construction and work is signed off just add a laundry sink then. You could even just run it right into the floor drain, won't meet code but for what you're using it for it won't matter.
Right now, i have a laundry sink that hook up to the floor drain for fish stuff but a plumber came out and recommend me not to use it because it will eventually stink up because of amount of fish poop i keep pouring into it :-). Original plan that i had is to have the sink to the far right corner of the room and run a line (simmilar to what you describe) to the mechanical room drain. You mention it wont meet the code so if i put some pipe there without hooking up the sink yet, the inspector come and see that then what happens? Will he ask me to remove it?

I also plan to make another floor drain beside the fish tank for water change. Would be nice to have everything right beside the fish tank so I don't have to walk between rooms. I definitely want an in wall tank so that i can view it from behind too. I probably run into problem with resell in future, but if i can enjoy a nice fish tank for at least 18 years, i think it is worth it.

+1

If you do this when it's time to sell you can take the tank with you and not alienate potential buyers who do not want a tank in their basement or a fishroom in their bathroom.

I hate how builders waste space and I also have no idea about how plumbing\venting works or if your drawings are to scale but if you move the hot water tank (again I have no idea if this is even possible or the cost involved) to be against the wall between the furnace and the tub you could build a closet around the whole thing and have a fairly sizable extra room.

It would be a fantastic fishroom for you but when it's time to sell it would be a pretty cheap conversion to an office or extra bedroom.

Just a thought...

Not going to move anytime soon unless i hit 649 lol :-). I think the furnace need a some kind of space clearance for air so it is a no go to move the hot water tank to that spot. If we happen to sell the house, i think we can easily knock down the wall