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View Full Version : DIY ATO, Anyone attempted this before?


Nano
01-09-2012, 10:06 PM
I am just wondering cause I saw this video, and it seems like a solid Idea, but has anyone done this before? after doing some reading up I see there was a company that use to sell these commercially. Looks idiot proof to me, but wanted some trusted opinions

fishytime
01-09-2012, 10:08 PM
um......am I the only one not seeing a link to the vid???

Nano
01-09-2012, 10:12 PM
lol sh*t sorry

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCHLJ1dzmPo

My mistake :lol:

msjboy
01-10-2012, 12:44 AM
that's cool.... and I thought a cheap used medical peristaltic dosing pump was the solution.

might try this myself...

msjboy

Cameron
01-10-2012, 12:58 AM
I thought about it before it decided pro
T to run 120v through a very small wire. Went with a jbj ago with a mj1200 pump and it's working great.

I have a float switch if you ate interested.

Nano
01-10-2012, 12:58 AM
yeah I wouldnt mind trying something like this but maybe with a float valve. I am just trying to see if anyone has any success/horror stories about them

Reef Pilot
01-10-2012, 01:04 AM
Yes, that is pretty clever. I do my ATO directly from my RO/DI line using float valves. But if I was using a secondary reservoir, I might consider an idea like that.

The problem of how much water is left can easily be solved by adding an airline tube tapped in at the top and the bottom to serve as a sight gauge.

Nano
01-10-2012, 01:09 AM
thats a really good Idea, like those big coffee pots haha

MKLKT
01-10-2012, 01:15 AM
Picture of the one I made here:

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=76662&page=2

sphelps
01-10-2012, 01:27 AM
Have done and seen similar ones for nanos but I think the system presents some issues for larger tanks requiring more water. I think if you have the space for a float switch either mechanical or electric it's a way better option. A simple mechanical float can often be found locally for around $10, then you don't need the air tight container which will honestly become a pain to deal with 2+ more times a week.

msjboy
01-10-2012, 01:28 AM
My Cusinart SS-700C single brew Kcup has a very nice auto top off and float valve mechanism... if one is at the store, have a look at the large blue reservoir where the mechanism is for ideas for a DIY that actually looks nice.
The new large Red Sea Max tanks also now incorporate an ATO built in on the side at the back.. kinda cool.

msjboy

Nano
01-10-2012, 01:31 AM
neat thanks for the tips guys! I have lots of room in the top of my stand I might build a shelf to hold 5 gallons or RO and have it serve as the ATO to my sump

martinmcnally
01-10-2012, 01:43 AM
Thats a pretty good idea. Just remember to clean the intake airline every so often. I find that some of my air intakes like on an overflow vent or intake to an airlifter pump build up salt inside the line.

Nano
01-10-2012, 01:44 AM
good point Martin, I'm sure the salt creep could cause some issues, but it all falls under general maintenance

toytech
01-10-2012, 05:10 PM
Ive got 2 float switches wired in line with a aqualifter ( just cut into an extension cord ) . With 2 switches its snail proof if one fries theres still a backup switch and it was cheap $4 for floatswitches off ebay . If you get any kind of air leak with the bucket idea it will drain . Oh and everyone whos is paranoid about frying floatswitches with too much currant , an aqualifter draws 3 watts , so at 120 v thats only .04 amps , the switches are rated for 5 amps.

Nano
01-10-2012, 05:17 PM
yeah I have thought of modifying this design with either float valves or float switches, I just dont know which one will be more accurate or reliable

sphelps
01-10-2012, 05:40 PM
float switches can be more reliable as they offer redundancy. For instance you can wire up as many switches in series as you want with each switch slightly higher than the next so if one were to fail the next one will take over. You can also wire in a timer to not only control when the top off activates but also control how long it's allowed to activate for. However such features are more critical when a larger or unlimited source of water is used for top off. If it's a small container that can't physically add enough water to cause damage a simple mechanical float is all you need, provided it can gravity fed. If you need a pump then you'll obviously be better off with a float switch.

Nano
01-10-2012, 05:50 PM
well my plan is to put it inside mystand above my sump, and have it drain into the sump when needed

MarkoD
01-10-2012, 07:52 PM
I don't think I'd ever risk it. What if the seal on the bucket or on the valve fails? The whole thing will drain into the sump.


An ATO is relatively cheap. Why even bother with this?

I use this ATO and it works amazing. And it's only 75 bucks

http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/do/product/rigging/Top-off-Kit

Nano
01-10-2012, 07:59 PM
I realize that thats why I'm asking I know there is a risk, but I'm sure that a ATO could fail overtime. it is def. safer then DIY, but I thought I'd put the idea out there ya know?

bvlester
01-10-2012, 09:42 PM
for a home made ATO you can buy 12VDC switches and sencors all you need to is buy and conect a 12VDC cord you no one from a thrift store for charging a cell phone. I found this out after buying a JBJ I will build one for my kids tank when I am ready. I have the parts.

Bill

mike31154
01-10-2012, 09:46 PM
Picture of the one I made here:

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=76662&page=2

If you read through to the end of MKLKT thread, you'll see my somewhat modified version of the gravity fed idea. I use a pressurized 7 gal glass wine making carboy to transport the top off water to my display since I can't elevate it above the tank safely & don't have a sump.

While nothing is 100% fail safe it makes sense to me that the fewer components there are in any system, the fewer things there are that can go wrong. A well thought out DIY ATO can be as safe or safer than any store purchased solution. The more components you add to a system, the more complex it becomes with additional failure scenarios & a better understanding of all the components is subsequently required. The what ifs suddenly become a lot more hazy to figure out.

My pressurized system is not pretty to look at sitting next to the display, but I could disguise it if I had the ambition to do so. My hang on skimmer is even uglier to look at. In any case, my DIY ATO has been working without issue for at least 3 years. If I had the gravity fed option I'd switch in a second, since I could lose a timer & air pump in the process. Two more things that could fail whereas on a plain gravity fed with mechanical float valve, realistically there is only 1 component that could fail & that's the valve. If you check it from time to time, that should never happen. I use my ATO to add calcium, alk & magnesium & the float valve has never shown any sign of gumming up. With pure RODI running through it every second bottle, any build up gets flushed thru pretty quick. The 7 gal carboy keeps my 77 topped up for 7 days. Lucky numbers!

EDIT: Forgot to add one thing. I've never felt comfortable cutting into an extension cord to DIY an ATO with electrical float switches. That just scares the crap out of me. Sure, the float switches may be rated to handle the current, but the bottom line is you now have the potential of 115 VAC sitting in your tank water. If there's ever a short in the float switch, you better have a GFCI that works. If you're going to go that route, use a relay to run the float switches with low voltage DC. The 115 VAC would be used to provide power to the pump & the control circuit through the float switch would be 12 VDC to activate the relay. A whole lot safer that way.

Like so type, not my graphic, but it's a dandy.

https://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pUhaLDTIhMC1xfmqgACSLnezQb7kKTjuhHpacWCB2k_QQOfE SGWCk19SRHLoAKXEiNSjhdY12PQH4n5snsXnp8Q/latchcircuit.gif?psid=1

Pretty slick huh? But look at all the components. A failure of any one would cause it to no longer function. Now imagine if you will, elevating the top off container above the sump & controlling the flow with a simple mechanical float valve. Not nearly as many things to screw up & the added benefit is that the top off is an almost constant trickle. No waiting until the level in the sump drops to activate FS1 starting the pump & top off process. No electrical power or gizmos involved. To me, if you have the room, gravity fed is a no brainer.