Connecting Canister filters to built in overflow

[b_james]

Anyone have any suggestions for plumbing caniters to existing corner overflow?

Here is what I was going to do. I have 2 Eheim (1 pro3e and 1 G160). Both of these will be plumbed as follows:

The tank is a 150 gal with a corner overflow (Two 1" bulkheads). I will use both bulkheads as returns TO the canister inlet. Strainers will be connected directly to the bulkhead at the bottom of the overflow. The return lines back to the tank will have to go up and over the tanks as you would if the tank was not drilled. Since the overflow will now be a closed system, I expect the water level in the overflow wil fluctuate due to evaporation. So to stabilize the water level, i will be adding a Tunze Water Top off device to maintain water level due to evaporation.

If anyone has other suggestings, feel free to comment.

[Skimmerking]

Hmmmmmmmmm interesting I think the main concern is having enough water to draw to fill the filters. but if you have a top off and have enough water to fill the filters i can't see a problem. But what do
i know all my stuff that i do are either retarded and doesnt make sense but it still works worst thing is that it will not work. and it won't over flow either.:biggrin:

[lastlight]

If even one strainer plugs, the connected filter will still empty it's contents into the tank I'm guessing. You need to make sure the overflow can handle that extra volume. It's an internal overflow though so I guess it would simply overflow into the display.

[b_james]

If even one strainer plugs, the connected filter will still empty it's contents into the tank I'm guessing. You need to make sure the overflow can handle that extra volume. It's an internal overflow though so I guess it would simply overflow into the display.

I dont think that would be a problem, remember that the water the filter takes will be returned into the tank and delivered back to the overflow. Also the overflow will always get the water it needs, just the flow rate may increase.

[b_james]

[QUOTE=asmodeus;658134]Hmmmmmmmmm interesting I think the main concern is having enough water to draw to fill the filters. but if you have a top off and have enough water to fill the filters i can't see a problem. QUOTE]

Filling the canisters would have to be accounted for as the total volumne. Once the filters are full and the water level in the overflow set, I see the only time the water level in the overflow will flucuate will be from evaporation. If a pump is turned off, all that should be affected is the flow rate will slow down.

[lastlight]

if you plug the intake of one of those filters with a thumb... don't they still force the contents out? in does not equal out if that's the case for a blockage of the input.

I've never had one of those filters myself.

Took a peek at your old 230 btw... that was a gorgeous build =)

[mikejrice]

I wouldn't do it. By doing this, you are basically making your overflows into two sumps with the canister filters being the returns. the sump, in your case the overflows, are always the point in a system where evaporation drops the water level, and with a tank as large as 150 gallons, the water level in the relatively small overflows is going to drop fast. There can also be problems when running two overflows connected to two sumps. If return pump one is pumping faster than pump two but both overflows are set at the same height, than the stronger pump won't be getting enough water. What you could do is plumb your overflows into a single glass tank below and use the filters to pump water back to the tank.

Michael Rice
Marine Engineers Aquarium Blog
Sent from Tapatalk so excuse my poor English

[b_james]

The tank has a single corner overflow that both canister filters will draw from. Also the overflow will have an auto top off syetem installed to account for evaporation. If you plug the end of the suction line, the canister will go into negative pressure and will not have enough power to pump out water. Any water being pumped out will need either makeup water or air to account for displacement. Remember the canister is a sealed unit. The unit needs the help of syphoning to circulate. If you take the suction line out of the water, it will break the syphon and the pump will not have enough power to push the water up to the tank.. hence why we have to prime the canister if there is air in the line.

[lastlight]

Ah cool. They are sealed that does make sense. I'd tee off one bulkhead and feed both filters if possible and then have the other as an emergency overflow. You won't have a siphon exactly but you should be able to still work it like a herbie setup and have some safety too (assuming 1 drain can handle the output of both filters (if not there'd be a bit of negative pressure on the filters which might still be ok?)

[reefwars]

what would happen if say one of the canister filter lines were to break(god forbid) if my drain plumbing leaked it would land in my sump but if yor canister is hooked up to your bulkheads and you sprung a leak while at work wouldnt it dumop what ever it could onto your floor??? just curious is all;)

[reefwars]

then if im right and you sprung a leak(again god forbid) wouldnt your ato keep dumping frshwater into your tank causing even more headache??

[b_james]

I decided to scap the canisters and go with a sump. For ease of pluming, I picked up the Marineland Model 2 sump filter. What i like about it has 3 slide out drawers for different media. Perfect for my use, also pluming is a snap as this filter is the model designed for the Deep Dimensions 150 cube. I am looking forward to the set up, the tank bulkheads will now be directly over the sump (in case of a snall leak). The sump will contain heaters, PH probe/controller, CO2 reactor, grounding probe and auto top off and it even has a chamber for a refugium - which I was thinking of doing a freshwater fuge just for algea. Not sure yet.