LF: AquaLifter and float switches (Calgary)

[syncro]

Looking for a used Oscar/Tom AquaLifter and several float switches.

[Eb0la11]

Looking for a used Oscar/Tom AquaLifter and several float switches.

PM me your offer. I am not sure yet if Id like to part with it but would listen.

[abcha0s]

We've got a couple of float switches kicking around. Cost would be $9 each. Let me know if you are interested and we can figure out a pickup time.

I assume that you are building an ATO? How will you control the on/off for the pump? The float switches are not meant to carry electricity, so you will need some kind of relay switch. Ideally, you need an aquarium controller.

Make sure you consider reliability. I personally only use float switches for monitoring and alerting applications. I don't trust them for control applications, but many people have been successful with them.

- Brad

[fishytime]

Red Coral has the aqualifters if you cant find one used:wink:

[wingedfish]

I assume that you are building an ATO? How will you control the on/off for the pump? The float switches are not meant to carry electricity, so you will need some kind of relay switch. Ideally, you need an aquarium controller.

Make sure you consider reliability. I personally only use float switches for monitoring and alerting applications. I don't trust them for control applications, but many people have been successful with them.

The aqualifter uses far less power than a float switches contact rating. I use two in series to keep pump from sticking on. Been months with no issues, not saying there wont be any issues, but the switch burning out do to an aqualifter is not that high on the issue list.

[abcha0s]

There's a good walkthrough for a DIY ATO using a float switch, aqualifter and relay here:

http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/diy/64681-chipmunks-diy-ato-guide-step-step.html

Wingedfish - I'm not doubting your setup, but I am curious. Are you putting the AC line voltage through the float switches? I have a number of concerns about that approach but the one that is easiest to convey is probably stray voltages.

Consider than when the switch is closed, the circuit is complete and current jumps between the two contact points. When the switch is open, the current will try to jump into your tank. Saltwater is a reasonable electrical conductor and the electricity will go looking for a ground in your tank. Have you noticed anything like this?

I suppose the hot wire is probably above the water line, but I think it would be difficult to completely isolate it.

Anyways, just curious.

- Brad

[wingedfish]

Wingedfish - I'm not doubting your setup, but I am curious. Are you putting the AC line voltage through the float switches? I have a number of concerns about that approach but the one that is easiest to convey is probably stray voltages.

Consider than when the switch is closed, the circuit is complete and current jumps between the two contact points. When the switch is open, the current will try to jump into your tank. Saltwater is a reasonable electrical conductor and the electricity will go looking for a ground in your tank. Have you noticed anything like this?

I suppose the hot wire is probably above the water line, but I think it would be difficult to completely isolate it.

Yes I'm running straight 120v throught the floats.

I'm no electrician, but current is a product of work. With the switch open, no work is being done and as long as the insulation is good, no electricity can stray. I can agree that an inductance can stray with current, but with the wattage involved in an aqualifter, it's a non issue compared to the unshielded inductance from heaters or lights.

It also doesn't matter which wire you splice as there will be 120v at the switch when open either way.

(none of this is legal or in any way should be played with by anyone unless they are willing to accept the consequences of high voltage around salt water)

[syncro]

abcha0s: What are the alternatives to float switches? Tunze optical. Float valve? Timer? I've got an Apex on the way for control. Thanks for the good links and info.

wingedfish: I hadn't considered running the 110v AC through the switch. I guess the trick it to ensure all equipment (and people) touching the water are insulated.

fishytime: Thanks!

Eb0lla: pm'ed

[dave_C]

I have a couple of used aqualifts laying around, i could be talked into trading one for lets say for a timmy's double double:mrgreen:

Dave

ps only if it is an extra large

[syncro]

Ha! I may take you up on that Dave. I'm trying to finish a sketch for a new tank. When that is done I'll drop by.

[mike31154]

For your relatively small set up, I'd consider a gravity fed ATO if you can swing it and have room for an ATO container at a slightly higher level than your sump. All you'll need then is the container, some tubing and a mechanical float valve, no electricity at all, particularly any kind of household voltage running through a light duty float switch. Because I don't have the option of elevating my ATO above my sumpless DT, I use a variation of the gravity feed option using an air pump on a timer pressurizing a glass wine carboy. The positive air pressure in the carboy moves the water into the display through a mechanical furnace humidifier float valve. So a little bit of electricity involved in running the air pump on the timer, but nothing electrical near or in the water. Actually not unlike the Aqualifter concept except using an air pump instead of pumping water thru Aqualifter. Don't have to deal with the electricity thru float switches though. I get nervous around 115VAC too close to the water, cringe when I see photos of heaters fully submerged, control head, cord & all. That's just an accident waiting to happen.

[syncro]

Great idea Mike. Should be quiet too. I'll consider a gravity ato... but i just bought a new controlller... :)

[syncro]

Thanks for the aqualifter Dave.

Still looking for a vertical float switch - need one in the next few days. Thanks!