Tank Stand

[Gujustud]

I'm working on designing my own tank stand (cabinet style), and I've taken a good look at most of those out there, including the pictures on the internet.

My question is, for those that have one, what would you want or not want with your current stand? Anything that annoys you? Anything you wish you had installed inside? More shelves? More space? Small pockets inside to hold certain items? Soundproofing?

My tank isn't very big (only 38g) and I've got a 20g tank which i'm going to use as a sump.

I really like Mark's idea of the removal doors (with magnets to hold them on).

One thing that looks annoying to me is the center support beam where the 2 doors usually close. I'm wondering if I can get away with this, if the stand is made strong enough (also due to the fact that its only 36" across).

[Quinn]

The removable doors is extremely handy. I did this on my stand and got the idea from Des in Edmonton. One thing I regret is thinking too much about the outer dimensions of the stand when building it and not the inner dimensions. The stand is very much overbuilt and the amount of wood inside wasn't really considered when I built it. It's extremely difficult for me to work inside the stand, and almost impossible to remove my skimmer. I wish I had put the NO lighting fixture at the very back of the stand instead of right above the sump, where it is very much in the way. If you have a lot of evaporation as I do, you will need to vent the stand. My stand is often over 30 degrees on the inside, and extremely humid.

[BCOrchidGuy]

2x4 construction will hold a 38 gallon tank no problems, just make sure you have the 2x4 narrow side up/down orientation. I've built a bunch of stands and there has been things I didn't like about each and everyone. I'm about to start building a stand for a 5 foot long tank and this time I'll do it slow. I used to buy my wood at Revy, because it's just down the street, however, I've found that the wood at Home depot is much better, straighter and less splinters etc. Maybe other Revy's are different but the one in Burnaby at Kingsway and Edmonds, their standard or better 2x4s are in bad shape.
This time around I'm going to use 2x6's for the stand construction, and I'll enclose the front (access will be from behind) I find kids, cats, dogs,cats, kids friends, cats.. you get the picture get into the underneath of the stand to easy with doors on the front. If the tank was going in a room with a wall behind it I'd obviously not go the route I am doing here.

Doug

[Gujustud]

good tips!

I've been designing the stand all day today, I may take some pics of my hand drawings so far, and post em up later.

A few questions that came about.

1) Does the wood have to be treated? ie: specially the support beams inside. If so, do I buy it treated? Or treat it after I buy it?

2) Kinda like question #1, the floor of the inside. I'm wondering if I should cover it with arcylic sheets, incase of spillage for easier cleanup? or let it just go on the wood?

teevee: Do you recommend then a vent, and a fan to suck air outside? (ie draw the warm air outside of the stand)

[Delphinus]

1) Treated as in pressure treating (the green wood)? I don't think that's necessary, that's more for insect control I think. What I would stay away from (this is just me) is things like particle board, MDF, etc. That stuff just swells up when wet. And sooner or later it's going to get wet.

But if you mean varnishing it to seal it, yes, that is a good idea. Something like a polyurethane based varnish should be good.

2) It's an excellent idea. Not that I've done it myself yet, but I really like this idea and the NEXT stand I build will be enclosed like that with acrylic. Basically what I think I'll do is make the sump inside the stand, but right up against the wood. That way there's no way for water to pool anywhere except for in your sump. I beleive DJ88 made his stand in this manner.

[BCOrchidGuy]

If you buy treated lumber be VERY careful when cutting it, wear a mask, Honest, don't think this is a little thing. The stuff the lumber is treated with is very very nasty crap if you breath it in.
Built it out of kiln dried non treated lumber, seal it with a good sealer, just my opinion.

Doug

[Delphinus]

If you buy treated lumber be VERY careful when cutting it, wear a mask,

No doubt. I love reading the product warning (if you get one with it). "Do not cut. Do not burn. Actually do not even touch! Put it down right now! Now! Now! Hurry! You're taking too long!"

[Jack]

Look what two monkey's built when they were bored :wink:

http://www.canreef.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6399&highlight=40g+stand

It's a really nice, cheap stand. I copied it on my new 60g and it works great. I'd reccomend building something like this.

[Gujustud]

Look what two monkey's built when they were bored :wink:

http://www.canreef.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6399&highlight=40g+stand

It's a really nice, cheap stand. I copied it on my new 60g and it works great. I'd reccomend building something like this.

Lol, looks... familiar, sorta. Wait till I post up my drawings I made today, quite similar.

I want to do the same thing, not having the center brace in the front, for better access. Looks good!

Only thing you'll notice once I post up my drawings, is that I was thinking about using 2x2. I thought that 4x2 would be overkill?

[StirCrazy]

Look what two monkey's built when they were bored :wink:

http://www.canreef.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6399&highlight=40g+stand

It's a really nice, cheap stand. I copied it on my new 60g and it works great. I'd reccomend building something like this.

hey i resemble that. we had no plans as I was using the force building that one :mrgreen:

Steve

[Quinn]

I only have one fan blowing out of my stand and some vents at the back. If I could redo it I would have a fan on each side.

I wouldn't use that green wood. Just regular 2x4s and plywood (I used some nice pine from HD), and slap some paint on. I didn't put too much on, just enough to seal it up a little bit.

And I almost forgot - I would totally have put something inside to hold spilt water. I've probably lost 20 gallons of water on the floor in the past few months, having a 4" high tray in there would have saved me a lot of headaches. If your tank is on carpet and/or in an area where you would care if you had water on the floor (ie. living room, bedroom, rental property), do not skip this. I am seriously regretting it.

[Gujustud]

I only have one fan blowing out of my stand and some vents at the back. If I could redo it I would have a fan on each side.

I wouldn't use that green wood. Just regular 2x4s and plywood (I used some nice pine from HD), and slap some paint on. I didn't put too much on, just enough to seal it up a little bit.

And I almost forgot - I would totally have put something inside to hold spilt water. I've probably lost 20 gallons of water on the floor in the past few months, having a 4" high tray in there would have saved me a lot of headaches. If your tank is on carpet and/or in an area where you would care if you had water on the floor (ie. living room, bedroom, rental property), do not skip this. I am seriously regretting it.

Exactly what I thinking. The tank is going to be in a carpet area, and in a area, where I do not want water on the floor (duh who does?). Thats why I was thinking about the idea of putting in the arcylic on the bottom and sides of the stand (sealing it with silicon). If I end up using 4x2" for the inside support, I would probably have about 4" to work with at the bottom, which would be a pretty good I think to hold a decent amount of water, incase of a spill.

I've thought of some more questions.

The stand itself is going to be made to blend into some other cabinet's that I've got in the same room (ikea billy). They are about 12" in depth, and so my stand will probably stick out about an extra 2-5" more. That shouldn't be my problem, but I'm wondering, about the plumbing. Should I have it go behind the tank or the side? The reason i'm wondering, is because that will add to my depth of another 1-2" more. -OR- do I really need such big tubing used for the plumbing, since its only a 40g tank, w/ 20g sump. Maybe I can getaway with some smaller tubing such as 1/2-3/4"?

[Quinn]

I think your return pipe only needs to be as large as the output on your pump, I think 3/4" is about minimum. You can run it whereever you want, really. I would do your overflow a bit larger in case it plugs up, and also because it only has gravity to move it and therefore may not be as high of a velocity as the return pump. I have a Mag12 return, 1" return pipes and a 2" overflow pipe.

I also have a pine Billy and designed my stand to blend in with my room, which is all pine.

http://quinn.rdcpsych.org/fish/stand%20jan%2015%2004/1.jpg

[Gujustud]

I think your return pipe only needs to be as large as the output on your pump, I think 3/4" is about minimum. You can run it whereever you want, really. I would do your overflow a bit larger in case it plugs up, and also because it only has gravity to move it and therefore may not be as high of a velocity as the return pump. I have a Mag12 return, 1" return pipes and a 2" overflow pipe.

I also have a pine Billy and designed my stand to blend in with my room, which is all pine.


Makes sense. I guess I'll worry about the return pipe, once I get my pump. What is recommended for my 38g? I was thinking about a Mag 250.

I'm working on a new design for my overflow. I found a way to design one, and IN the case that it plugs up, the water will run back into the tank. I haven't seen anything like it before, but we'll see if it works out.

Btw, what size is your tank?

[BCOrchidGuy]

It depends on what you want your pump to do. Do you just want it to return your water from your sump or do you want it to provide your "turbulent" current in your tank. If the first then the Mag 3 would be great, if you want to use it to move your water alot more then I'd go with the Mag 5 or larger. Remember, just a couple of 90degree elbows will really reduce your water flow, and of course, head pressure will as well.

Doug

[jestdive]

being a metal worker i would prefer a metal stand due to the room you save 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 square tubing is lots smaller than 2 x 4's. plus the strength is way better. also if you got the bucks powder coating (any color) will last almost forever which is better than any water resistant stain for wood. oh yes and magnetic wood panels love to stick to metal stands.

[Gujustud]

being a metal worker i would prefer a metal stand due to the room you save 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 square tubing is lots smaller than 2 x 4's. plus the strength is way better. also if you got the bucks powder coating (any color) will last almost forever which is better than any water resistant stain for wood. oh yes and magnetic wood panels love to stick to metal stands.

I was thinking about doing that for the internal frame. The shop next to mine does welding, and a mighty good job of it too.

[Gujustud]

so I decided that instead of making the stand built for my 36"x12" that I would design one for a 48"x13".

2 reasons for this.

I would like to eventually upgrade down the road to a tank that is at least 48" in width (so I can actually get one tang!).

Also because I like the size of a 55g, and that would fit perfect on a 48" long stand. It saves me from building a awesome 36" stand, then having to rebuild another one down the road. Also for the area its going in, a 48" would fit perfect as well.

I guess the only thing is that I need to reinforce it much better, since the 36" won't be sitting on all the edges.

My question is, does anyone here have a 55g tank that is 48x13? I believe all-glass makes one. I'm just wondering what the EXACT dimensions are for the bottom of the tank, where the plastic mold is.

[BCOrchidGuy]

48x12x24tall is a 77, it's only a couple bucks more for that than the 55 if I'm not mistaken. I built a stand using 2x6 for my 77 and it was great. I built it 49x13 because the tanks are actually 1/2 inch longer and wider than the measurment when you look at the trim.

Doug

[Gujustud]

48x12x24tall is a 77, it's only a couple bucks more for that than the 55 if I'm not mistaken. I built a stand using 2x6 for my 77 and it was great. I built it 49x13 because the tanks are actually 1/2 inch longer and wider than the measurment when you look at the trim.

Doug

Good info. Yeah I noticed on my 36" that the trim is about 1/2 longer, so I'll make it that much bigger. The 55 is 48x13x20, so if the 77 comes from the extra 4" and if its worth it to get the extra height, I may do that. Only thing is that my stand is going to be around 40" in height.

[BCOrchidGuy]

Sorry, musta been asleep at the keyboard. 48x18x24 is 90 gallons 48x15x24 is 77, 48x12x24 is 60 gallons. Again, sorry for the brain fart.

Doug

[Gujustud]

lol, no worries.

I checked the 55g at Big Als, its 48x13x20.

I finished my frame today, just trying to get my hands on a camera for some pics. Its pretty big, and total overkill I think, but I want it strong!

i'm giving it to the shop next door to do the wood paneling, as they are going to custom match the color to some other furniture in the room its going in.

One question I had is space for plumbing. Should I ask him to make some holes in the back? Or should I do that later?

[BCOrchidGuy]

Holes in the back of the tank? I'd do that earlier than later if you can help it.

Doug

[Gujustud]

Holes in the back of the tank? I'd do that earlier than later if you can help it.

Doug

Sorry, I should of been more clear.

I mean in the stand itself. The shop next door is doing the outer paneling for me. I'm going to be putting a 20g sump in the stand. I'm wondering if I should have him leave some round/square holes in the back for the plumbing? Or should I do that myself later on? I know I want to put a fan inside, to suck air in (or out) however, I figured i'd do that later once I actually get the fans, and know the size).

Also should I have the side/front/back panels come up about 1/2" around the top side? To act as a lip to somewhat keep the tank inside?

I know I'll need one hole probably on the side panel, near the bottom for the plug to go thru.

[Gujustud]

Okay, thanks to Lostmind i'm a little stuck.

I've got a 36" yet I designed the stand for a 48" (55 gal).

The inside of the frame is 13" in width. The reason was so that my 12-1/2" sump could fit inside. Using the 2x4 (really 1.5x3.5) to construct the stand that makes the top surface 16" in width (hopefully that makes sense.

Perfect for me to fit a 55g tank on, as they are 48x13".

Well now Lostmind jumps in, and says I should go for a 90g tank (48x18).

ARGGG, had I knew in the beginning, I could of made it 2 inches wider.

Sooooooo. what do I do? I don't want to take the frame apart. Its already all screwed together, and sealed, and I was "about" to take it over to the next shop to get all the outside put on.

I was thinking about adding a 4x4 on the back ledge, and just screwing it onto the frame (I know pictures would help to show the structral integrity, hopefully I'll get some soon).

Any other options? The reason I mentinoed the back edge, is because that way, the front is still flat, for doors, etc etc. I dunnoooooo.

[BCOrchidGuy]

You could simply run lengths of 2x4 across the stand... IE
______________
| |
| |
|_____________|

So say that's your stand from above simply lay 2x4s so they run this way

| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | | |

This would probably work but, I'd rather redo the stand properly, you'll enjoy a more stable structure with a wider foot print.

All that being said, why not phone King Ed and ask them if they have any used pine 90 gallon stands around. I bet you could get one for $100

Doug

[Rus]

i found adding a side cabinet on made a huge difference fgor space [ ie: skimmer , reactor and such ]http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/138tankstand-med.jpg?7194

[StirCrazy]

hmmm looks familer :mrgreen:

Steve

[Gujustud]

This would probably work but, I'd rather redo the stand properly, you'll enjoy a more stable structure with a wider foot print.


True. Well I went over to the custom cabinet shop next door (the guy who's gonna do the outer work) and I asked him what I should do. I told him I want to increase the width by 2". He gave me a great idea of putting a peice of 1/2" MDF against the back, then putting another back frame of 2x4" which will give me the 2" I need, and keeping the the sturdyness of the frame. Should work fine.

All that being said, why not phone King Ed and ask them if they have any used pine 90 gallon stands around. I bet you could get one for $100

I'm sorta a DIY kinda guy (I didn't mean for that to rhyme). Plus I need the stand to match some of my other furniture in the same room. This way I can have the height, and color all match.

i found adding a side cabinet on made a huge difference fgor space [ ie: skimmer , reactor and such ]

You just wanted a excuse to post that picture ;)

Argg all of you. Here I thought I'd be happy with my 38g, and now i'm already thinking about a 90g tank, with a side cabinet and more. NO! stop!! lol!!

[StirCrazy]

Argg all of you. Here I thought I'd be happy with my 38g, and now i'm already thinking about a 90g tank, with a side cabinet and more. NO! stop!! lol!!

Pssssst 280gal, 280gal, 280gal :mrgreen:

Steve

[Gujustud]

Here are some pics of it so far, I ran back to the shop to take some pics. Again excuse the quality of the pics, they are taken from a camcorder. Anyone want to donate a digital camera ;)

size: 48.5x16x41"

Stand without the removable center brace.
http://www.ditchmond.com/gallery/albums/userpics/aquarium/diy/normal_standframe08.jpg

Stand with the removable center brace.
http://www.ditchmond.com/gallery/albums/userpics/aquarium/diy/normal_standframe10.jpg

Bottom support
http://www.ditchmond.com/gallery/albums/userpics/aquarium/diy/normal_standframe15.jpg

I've still got a bunch of work to do to it. Still want to add the plastic bottom with a 3-4" lip around the side, incase of any spills. I'm gonna built a shelf about halfway up on one side. I'm gonna put a bucket with a small tubing, that will drip-feed topoff water into the sump.

More pictures here (http://www.ditchmond.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=53)

[Jack]

Is the center brace staying in or out when it's fully setup?

[Gujustud]

Is the center brace staying in or out when it's fully setup?

Its going to stay in. I had initally designed the 36" to be completely without the center brace, but now that its a 48" I had to put in the center brace. I figured I'd make it removable just incase I had to take the sump out for any reason. I've still got to put all the sidings on as well, and the cabinet maker next door said that even with the weight it would be okay to take it out for a short while if I ever had to.

[Rus]

i would think you would be fine omitting the center brace if that's what you wanted to do , i have no brace in the middle of mine on the back side , tank is 5' long , but i did use 2x6 for my header across the top . it looks like you have double 2x4 across the top on a 4' span with no concentrated weight in the middle you would be fine , again if that's what you were hoping to do .

-Russ

[Gujustud]

i would think you would be fine omitting the center brace if that's what you wanted to do , i have no brace in the middle of mine on the back side , tank is 5' long , but i did use 2x6 for my header across the top . it looks like you have double 2x4 across the top on a 4' span with no concentrated weight in the middle you would be fine , again if that's what you were hoping to do .

-Russ

Yup, thats exactly what I planned on doing. But now also since I increased the size from 36 - 48", I need somewhere to put the magnets to hold up my doors, so I figured I'd use the removable brace for that.

[Gujustud]

So I decided "not" to expand the width of the stand from 16-18". It would of been nice, but after checking the amount of space where the tank is going to go, its gonna stick out a little too far from the wall then I wanted it to (seeing that I need at least 1-2" behind the stand as well.

Sealant is all done. Next steps are going to be getting the outside paneling and doors done, and also making the bottom plastic tank, incase of any spills.

[Gujustud]

Finally!!

After 2 months of waiting, I finally got the stand back from the cabinet maker next door. My dad had to finally lend a "word" or two, to get the guy on it. Kinda upset, cause when he wanted us to mill out some doors for him on a rush, we did it on the weekend for him just so his customer would be happy, and here I am waiting for him (for 2 months) to spend a few hours to cover up my stand. He also forgot to follow my detailed drawings, which shows how I wanted the stand made (including the folding out top lip, which he completely forgot). I said to forget it, just so I could get my stand, and not wait any longer.

I've still got one small bookcase left that needs to be made to go on the right side of the stand (will post pictures later if he ever finishes it), but regardless, the stand is home!

The front panel is completely removable. It is held into place by 6 clips. I'm probably gonna pick up some sleek handles, and screw them down the sides of the stand.

http://www.ditchmond.com/gallery/albums/userpics/normal_DSCF0718.JPG

I have to put a little silicone on the inside top lip (1"), and pick up the foam from HD for the stand to sit on. I'm also contemplating putting some type of hard rubber mat under the stand itself, I'll see what they have at HD. Any recommendations? Something to keep the stand somewhat flat?

http://www.ditchmond.com/gallery/albums/userpics/normal_DSCF0719.JPG

I will also be bolting the stand against the wall completely, so there is no chance of it falling foward (the stand is 41-3/4" high). Yup, PERFECT viewing angle!

[mr_alberta]

That looks freaking sweet man!

[Gujustud]

That looks freaking sweet man!

Thanks! I'm starting to really like the look of it, the more I look at it. I was kinda worried when he (cabinet maker) said the wide doors won't work, and to use one big panel in the front. But it actually looks really sleek, which I like. That panel is heavy however, (he used 3/4" plywood all around).

I'm also contemplating painting the inside white before I start setting up. What is a good paint to use?

[Quinn]

That's really slick. A lot like my stand with the removable front panel.

[MitchM]

Careful about pushing the stand tight against the wall. There's a tack strip under the carpet, against the wall, which will tilt the cabinet forward when weight is put on it. Screwing it to the wall will only cause the stand to twist when significant weight is put on it.
A 1/4" solid shim under the front of the cabinet would be a good solution.
Slick looking, BTW! :smile:

Mitch

[Gujustud]

Careful about pushing the stand tight against the wall. There's a tack strip under the carpet, against the wall, which will tilt the cabinet forward when weight is put on it. Screwing it to the wall will only cause the stand to twist when significant weight is put on it.
A 1/4" solid shim under the front of the cabinet would be a good solution.
Slick looking, BTW! :smile:

Mitch

Thanks for the info. Already done. 1/4" too. At least the guy gave me one good peice of info ;)

[StirCrazy]

that removable center stand.. that is just for getting the sump in before you put water in the top tank right?

the reason I ask is i don't think you will be able to get it out once you get a tank full of water on top. although it is to late you could have used a length of steel angle iron along the Front to brace the front beam so you wouldn't need a removable center support.

but its probably to late now and I am babbling so just tell me to shut up :mrgreen:

Steve

[Aquattro]

I am babbling so just tell me to shut up



I'm saving this quote for later!! :razz:

[StirCrazy]

I am babbling so just tell me to shut up



I'm saving this quote for later!! :razz:

when have you ever needed a quote? :rolleyes:

Steve

[Gujustud]

Steve: Here are some more pics of the inside of the stand. You'll see how pretty bulky it is up underneath the stand. I believe it should hold up even without the center brace. The walls of the stand are 3/4" thick, so along with the 2x4 it is pretty strong (I think!?).

http://www.ditchmond.com/gallery/albums/userpics/normal_DSCF0876.JPG (http://www.ditchmond.com/gallery/albums/userpics/DSCF0876.JPG)

The removable brace is about 1/32" smaller, it sorta just slides in. I milled out a delrin bracket that it will slide into, and I was thinking of using some removable dowels that just hold it into place. Its more of a security thing I guess. I'll post pictures of that once I install it.

http://www.ditchmond.com/gallery/albums/userpics/normal_DSCF0875.JPG (http://www.ditchmond.com/gallery/albums/userpics/DSCF0875.JPG)

(click on pics for bigger pictures)