Building codes for aquarium in mechanical room

[sphelps]

Planning a large size aquarium for the basement of my new house. I was hoping to build an in wall tank with the tank being located in an over sized mechanical room (with furnace, water tank, electrical box, ect.). I will be getting a framing, electrical and final building inspection and I'm just thinking if this tank will be against building code. I know I could add the tank after inspection but would prefer to keep everything 100% legit for resale. I'd ask my inspector but my faith in him is deteriorating by the day, so far I've gotten better advice from this site.

[lastlight]

Maybe talk to Tony as I know he's gotten everything done legit. I'm also getting a permit and didn't think they'd even care about the tank. Certainly no hiding the thing! I'm guessing so long as my outlets aren't wired under the stand the electrical guy won't care but I guess I'll see.

[toxic111]

of the top of my head I don't know of any code that would prevent you from putting a tank in the mech room in a single family dwelling.

HTH.

[Delphinus]

I just drew the aquarium into the drawing I supplied for the development permit. They didn't care that there was an aquarium at all in the plans - just things like where the drains were, were the light switches and fixtures were, where the plugs were and how many per circuit and per 8' of wall and so on .. think the biggest concern the development inspector had was where the smoke detector was going. My drawings showed where the tank plugs would be and that there 4 15a circuits going to the plug array in the tank room.

I passed the development rough-in inspection on the first go, needed 2 attempts for the plumbing and electrical rough-in inspections, but FWIW I have not had my final plumbing or electrical yet. I asked if I could have final inspection on part of the basement so I could start using the plugs but was advised by the inspectors that I'm allowed to use plugs before the final inspection so I have the tank going now obviously. But I'm a little afraid that when they see just how many things are plugged in and the mess of wires and ballasts and whatnot, that the inspector is going to cough up a bird or something when he sees all that. So I'll let you know how THAT goes.

If I understand correctly the spirit of the code (if not the letter of the law so to speak) when it comes to mechanical rooms, I think their concerns will be that it is sealed off from the rest of the house because of the possibility of CO seeping into the rest of the house if an exhaust pipe gets blocked or whatever. So my guess is that if you have an inwall tank that backs onto a mechanical room, you probably will have to demonstrate that it is properly sealed (ie., silicone the seams from glass to drywall maybe ... no cabinet doors into the sump area or light canopy from the front side ... and so on). Just my guesses though. In my case my tank room is not also the furnace room so I didn't go through any scrutiny like that.

[lastlight]

I don't even have a drain on my fishroom side of the basement. I sure hope the city won't even comment or care about the tank stuff.

[Delphinus]

My guess is they won't. The only thing the electrical inspector said to me when we talked about the tank room was "make sure you use CSL approved ballasts." The only thing about the floor drain for me was that I was draining the laundry sink into it and apparently this is a huge no-no. My advice is if you intend upon having a laundry sink make sure it's either: 1) drain is hard-plumbed and vented properly, or 2) not there on inspection day.

[lastlight]

Yeah Tony and I have had that conversation. My tub won't be there!

[sphelps]

I can seal off the mechanical room without any issues, the tank will be sealed air tight to the wall with no access to room except the door. I don't think it has to be that tight though since the requirements for the door do not have to be air tight so the tank shouldn't have to be either but my plan is to have it tight anyway.

I know you're not allowed a cold air return in the mechanical room for CO2 reasons but I do want to put an exhaust vent in the room to control humidity. I'm not sure if that is allowed either and if it is I would assume there will be a limit on the cfm and duty cycle unless it's interlocked with the furnace to replace exhausted air with make up.

Good news so far though, obviously my plan is plausible.

[sphelps]

I'm also guessing the actual size of the tank doesn't really matter, small or big same deal? No offense guys but my tank is going to be way bigger than yours :lol:

[MitchM]

If you're concerned about everything being legit for resale, I would pay extra attention to moisture control and ventilation.
I had 4 or 500 gallons in my last house basement with an HRV. When we went to move I found that there was a salt residue on all the light fixtures and corrosion had started to show up on the brass components of some light fixtures, plus on some copper sculptures.

It was a house built in the 1960's, and you're in a new house, but still something to watch out for.

[lastlight]

I'm not sure about the CFM issue. I'm doing ALL the tank related stuff (tub and venting) after my basement is 'done' and approved by the city.

Makes me wonder...if I add this stuff on later and there was a fire...they find abs drain pipe, laundry tun and a venting fan not in my plans...am i no further ahead with the insurance company? maybe i still would not be covered?

How many gallons are you planning on?

[Delphinus]

Hard to say. Just don't have a fire or flood, I guess, so that we don't have to find out. That said, you're not going to get a fire caused by the sink in any case (one would think anyhow! :lol:), it's the electrical I'd be more concerned about.

[mark]

Have a large room mechanical room as well that's doubling as a fish room. It's great with the floor drain, laundry sink and the top of the deep freeze is a good for a fragging table.

Though don't have a problem with humidity have noticed after 5 years getting some salt deposits on the furnace ducting that's over the sump (hot only, not the return).

[golf nut]

Planning a large size aquarium for the basement of my new house. I was hoping to build an in wall tank with the tank being located in an over sized mechanical room (with furnace, water tank, electrical box, ect.). I will be getting a framing, electrical and final building inspection and I'm just thinking if this tank will be against building code. I know I could add the tank after inspection but would prefer to keep everything 100% legit for resale. I'd ask my inspector but my faith in him is deteriorating by the day, so far I've gotten better advice from this site.


What do you think might give you issues?

[Pansy-Paws]

If you're concerned about everything being legit for resale, I would pay extra attention to moisture control and ventilation.
I had 4 or 500 gallons in my last house basement with an HRV. When we went to move I found that there was a salt residue on all the light fixtures and corrosion had started to show up on the brass components of some light fixtures, plus on some copper sculptures.

It was a house built in the 1960's, and you're in a new house, but still something to watch out for.

I would concur with Mitch on paying particular attention to moisture and ventilation. Our fish room adjoins our mechanical room, and some of the duct work in the mechanical room has rust spots after five years. I've also fought condensation on the cold water pipes (take care if the electrical box will be cold from an outside wall) :neutral:

[sphelps]

I'm not too worried about moisture, the sump will be sealed and the lighting canopy will completely seal the open top of the tank and then the canopy will be vented outside. I will also likely opt for concrete backerboard around the tank in the mechanical room side as appose to standard drywall. My concerns about building code are related to having a large body of water next to the electrical panel, I wasn't sure if this was an issue. Also if you're allowed to have an exhaust vent in the mechanical room, perhaps this can potentially cause a negative pressure situation more easily due to the location. I know you're limited to around 200cfm on other exhaust fans in the house unless you interlock, I will not be exceeding this by any means however the duty cycle will be higher than say a bathroom fan and again the proximity of furnace may also play a role. I guess what I could do is drill two holes in the side of the house and use one for exhaust and one for make up so the canopy is vented without using air from inside the house. However then I have to wonder if that will be acceptable, I know fire code limits you to so many openings on the side of the house, this particular side already has two large windows from above, a bathroom vent, cold air intake for furnace, two vents for furnace burner, vent for water heater burner, dryer vent, and exhaust vent. It already looks like Swiss cheese, could be a problem adding more vents.

As for tank size we're planning in the range of 1000 to 1500 gallons depending on the final basement layout, most likely will be approximately 10 feet long, 6 feet wide and 3 feet tall. Will be only viewable from one side.

Thanks for the input folks!

[MitchM]

I have a copy of both the building code and electrical code if you need to see a particular section.
I could email you a PDF if you know what section of the code you want clarification on.

[lastlight]

That's exactly what I'm doing... feeding my canopy with a fresh air duct. I plan to vent my tank and fishroom tho as I'm not a fan of lids on tanks.

Those are big tank plans considering you're relocating to Australia soon =)

[sphelps]

That's exactly what I'm doing... feeding my canopy with a fresh air duct. I plan to vent my tank and fishroom tho as I'm not a fan of lids on tanks.

Those are big tank plans considering you're relocating to Australia soon =)
Haha that's my brothers car, he already moved to Australia and left all his crap with me to deal with. I just bought a new house so I'm not going anywhere anytime soon.

[golf nut]

As for tank size we're planning in the range of 1000 to 1500 gallons depending on the final basement layout, most likely will be approximately 10 feet long, 6 feet wide and 3 feet tall. Will be only viewable from one side.

Thanks for the input folks!

I would be inclined to epoxy the walls and then just flood the whole thing... J/K

Are you building in concrete with one viewable pane or building a complete tank with just one side viewable?

[Magma]

Dont know if this will help you but electrically here you go

http://www.shopcsa.ca/onlinestore/GetCatalogItemDetails.asp?mat=2417222&Parent=1949


Household and Similar Electrical Appliances - Safety - Part 2-55: Particular Requirements for Electrical Appliances for use with Aquariums and Garden Ponds

CSA Preface

This is the second edition of CAN/CSA-E60335-2-55, Household and similar*electrical appliances - Safety - Part 2-55: Particular requirements for*electrical appliances for use with aquariums and garden ponds, which is*an adoption without modification of the identically titled CEI/IEC*(Commission Électrotechnique Internationale/International*Electrotechnical Commission) Standard 60335-2-55 (third edition,*2002-11). It supersedes the previous edition published in 1994 as*CAN/CSA-E335-2-55 (adopted CEI/IEC 335-2-53:1989).

1 Scope

This clause of Part 1 is replaced by the following.

This International Standard deals with the safety of electric appliances*for use with aquariums and garden ponds for household and similar*purposes, their rated voltage being not more
than 250 V.

NOTE 101 Examples of appliances within the scope of this standard are
- aerators;
- aquarium heaters;
- automatic food dispensers;
- sludge-suction appliances.

Appliances not intended for normal household use but that nevertheless*may be a source of danger to the public, such as appliances intended to*be used by laymen in shops and in light industry and farms, are within*the scope of this standard.

As far as is practicable, this standard deals with the common hazards*presented by appliances that are encountered by all persons in and*around the home. However, in general, it does not take into account
- the use of appliances by young children or infirm persons without*supervision;
- playing with the appliance by young children.

NOTE 102 Attention is drawn to the fact that
- for appliances intended to be used in vehicles or on board ships or*aircraft, additional requirements may be necessary;
- in many countries additional requirements are specified by the*national health authorities, the national authorities responsible for*the protection of labour and similar authorities.

NOTE 103 This standard does not apply to
- pumps (IEC 60335-2-41);
- other portable immersion heaters (IEC 60335-2-74);
- luminaires for aquariums and garden ponds (IEC 60598-2-18);
- appliances intended for outdoor use having a rated power input*exceeding 100 W;
- appliances intended exclusively for professional use;
- appliances intended to be used in locations where special conditions*prevail, such as the presence of a corrosive or explosive atmosphere*(dust, vapour or gas).



Might want to look into that just to be safe?

Its from the Canadian Electrical Code Part II. Thats just the preface to give you an idea what that section covers.

[puffer]

Nice size tank!!!

We have a 300gal tank with an opening from the mechanical room when we built our house. Here's a couple of things I did when I planned it that you might want to consider.

1) Have separate circuits with breakers and GFI's for your lights vs your pumps. This way if you ever have a problem your entire system won't go down. With such a large system I would consider putting two circuits just for your pumps in case you have a problem with one you still have circulation with the other circuit.
2) Have a separate drain at the bottom of the tank with a cement border around the tank. My entire tank and stand sits on top of a pond liner for additional protection.
3) I had a hole drilled into my sump with a valve that drains directly into the drain that allows me to release water quickly when I do a water change.
4) Have a plastic garbage can to hold reverse osmosis water for automatic topping up. Used for the water change as well.
5) I have a waterbug (water sensor) as well as a temperature sensor in the furnace room that is attached to my alarm system in case anything goes wrong
6) Physically shield your wall outlets and power bars from water accidentally dropping on them. Try to place them on the sides of your tank instead of below your tank in case the tank breaks or leaks.

We never had any issues with any of the inspectors and they knew it was roughed in for a tank. I think you just have a make sure that the electrical meets basic code. If there are too many things plugged in that's what the breakers are for. i agree with the discussion regarding insurance and doing any electrical after the fact ie. do all the electrical at the building stage and have it approved properly by the inspector.

Good luck with the tank!

Puffer
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