wiring igniter on to coralive ballast

[KevinK]

ok so Coralive sendme 2 new ignitors to wire on to the ballast (I dont have the original pendants)

question now is how the hel do the wires go

can somone send me s sketch (in dummy style) so more ore less

the white wire from the ballast will go to ...........
the black will go to ................
the red wil go to ..............

and in fact what wires go to the bulb ?

I go from ballast to the ignitor (3 conection points) and from the ignitor, what is going to the bulb ? ore how to wire this ?

[globaldesigns]

K, here you go.

Red goes to B terminal
White goes to LP terminal
Black goes to N terminal

Here is a pic showing the igniter wired up:
http://www.3reef.com/forums/attachments/reef-lighting/15102d1240271190-coralife-aqualight-w

[KevinK]

thanks, this is going right what I need (for a dummy)

but what is going to the bulb sokket ?

[KevinK]

is there any one that has a coralive 150 ore 250w HQI light ficture that is willing to poen it up for me to se how the wires are conected from the ballast to the igniter and lamp?

[mike31154]

It's a bit risky to provide advice on wiring ballasts at the best of times, let alone trying to do so with the limited info you've provided. I googled 'Coralive' and got hits on various 'Coralife' fixtures but even with that, not knowing a model number or what size, brand, standard your ballast is makes it near impossible to provide useful advice.

Fixture manufacturer (spelling can be important here) & model number?
MH lamp wattage? 250? 150? this will aid in determining ballast spec.
Single ended or double ended lamps?
Probe start or Pulse start, with ignitor I assume pulse?
Ballast brand/type/model/spec, i.e. M58, M80?

If you're able to at least provide the ballast ANSI code like M58, M80, it would be fairly easy to find the appropriate wiring diagram.

[KevinK]

It's a bit risky to provide advice on wiring ballasts at the best of times, let alone trying to do so with the limited info you've provided. I googled 'Coralive' and got hits on various 'Coralife' fixtures but even with that, not knowing a model number or what size, brand, standard your ballast is makes it near impossible to provide useful advice.

Fixture manufacturer (spelling can be important here) & model number?
MH lamp wattage? 250? 150? this will aid in determining ballast spec.
Single ended or double ended lamps?
Probe start or Pulse start, with ignitor I assume pulse?
Ballast brand/type/model/spec, i.e. M58, M80?

If you're able to at least provide the ballast ANSI code like M58, M80, it would be fairly easy to find the appropriate wiring diagram.


we are talking about this ballast:

http://www.marineandreef.com/Aqualight_Pro_150_Watt_HQI_Ballast_Coralife_p/res53056.htm

that has to be conected to the igniter and light bulb.

it dous not mention anything about M58 ore M80

[ongquang21]

Since you do not give me all the fixture infor.. I'll give you a general one.

In common, there are 2 pairs of wires coming out of the coralive ballast box (3 wires: black-white pairs and red-white pairs, ground not counted).

The pairs black(or red) and white usually are 120v supplying for led light driver, fan adapter... You have to check this black wire by looking at the power switch on the box. It just hooks to the switch's 2 wire port and comes out of the box leading to the fixture without going to the ballast.
Please use Volt- meter to check them.

The pairs red (or black) and white are for the metal bulb.
Because coralive is using eu standard, it's ignitor is a superimposed one.
This means it can stand alone using it's own coil to boost from 190v to 4000-5000v. So it is wired simply and differently from the North Ame. one.

So:
First, from the ballast

White (com) wire goes to N terminal (neutral).
Red ( hot) wire goes to B (boost?)

Second, From bulb's 2 socket wires

One(red or whatever up to you) goes to Lp (lamp).
The other(color up to you, but white is recommended) wire goes to N
Please note there are TWO whites go to N.


The wire's color sometimes tells you nothing. To be sure check them all:

There is only one hot wire (white one is another one but not hot) coming out directly from the coralive's ballast. whatever its color is, You must consider it as red wire for connection above.

[KevinK]

Since you do not give me all the fixture infor.. I'll give you a general one.

In common, there are 2 pairs of wires coming out of the coralive ballast box (3 wires: black-white pairs and red-white pairs, ground not counted).

The pairs black(or red) and white usually are 120v supplying for led light driver, fan adapter... You have to check this black wire by looking at the power switch on the box. It just hooks to the switch's 2 wire port and comes out of the box leading to the fixture without going to the ballast.
Please use Volt- meter to check them.

The pairs red (or black) and white are for the metal bulb.
Because coralive is using eu standard, it's ignitor is a superimposed one.
This means it can stand alone using it's own coil to boost from 190v to 4000-5000v. So it is wired simply and differently from the North Ame. one.

So:
First, from the ballast

White (com) wire goes to N terminal (neutral).
Red ( hot) wire goes to B (boost?)

Second, From bulb's 2 socket wires

One(red or whatever up to you) goes to Lp (lamp).
The other(color up to you, but white is recommended) wire goes to N
Please note there are TWO whites go to N.


The wire's color sometimes tells you nothing. To be sure check them all:

There is only one hot wire (white one is another one but not hot) coming out directly from the coralive's ballast. whatever its color is, You must consider it as red wire for connection above.



we are getting there,

I opend the ballast and the black whire that is coming out is conected to the switch.

so gust to go over it:

the red whire is going to B (boost)
the white will go to N and is conecte at the same time to a whire running to one of the bulb soccets.

the other end from the soccet is going back to the igniter and wil go into LP

what do I do whit the black whire coming form the ballast ?

what do you mean with: It just hooks to the switch's 2 wire port and comes out of the box leading to the fixture without going to the ballast.
Please use Volt- meter to check them


how do I check it, what position do I have to put the multy meter on, and what should I read ?

[ongquang21]

(we are getting there,

I opend the ballast and the black whire that is coming out is conected to the switch.)

This wire is 120v power supply from the wall plug for the ballast through the switch


let me know how many wires let over without connected to anything and all of their color









There are two terminals on the switch. incoming terminal is for the hot black wire of wall power supply plug. So there is only one black wire on it. The other terminal is for outgoing wires. Usually, there are two black wires hooked to this terminal, one go to the ballast, one go out of the box heading the fixture(without going to anywhere elf) for fan adapter...
By doing this, the whole fixture and ballast will be cut off power when the switch is turned to off position.

The box is designed to work with led, fan and light system. In your case, you can cut it off or save it as internal power supply later for later use...

Turn you Volt meter to 500v post then measure the black wire against the white. steady 120v is the one. Make sure to turn the switch to ON

[ongquang21]

Don't be so confused. There are tens wires on the ballast but right now almost all of them are hooked to their own proper positions. And your job is just to look at the ones not hooked to anywhere yet.

[KevinK]

(we are getting there,

I opend the ballast and the black whire that is coming out is conected to the switch.)

This wire is 120v power supply from the wall plug for the ballast through the switch


let me know how many wires let over without connected to anything and all of their color









There are two terminals on the switch. incoming terminal is for the hot black wire of wall power supply plug. So there is only one black wire on it. The other terminal is for outgoing wires. Usually, there are two black wires hooked to this terminal, one go to the ballast, one go out of the box heading the fixture(without going to anywhere elf) for fan adapter...
By doing this, the whole fixture and ballast will be cut off power when the switch is turned to off position.

The box is designed to work with led, fan and light system. In your case, you can cut it off or save it as internal power supply later for later use...

Turn you Volt meter to 500v post then measure the black wire against the white. steady 120v is the one. Make sure to turn the switch to ON

ok so I in fact have to forget the black whire, as it is for aditional lights ore fans (that usely are build in a hood)

I also wil check the mesurements, so conecting one end to the black and the other on the white, so when there is 120V when switch is on, and 0 when swich is off right, when this is the case we should be there.

not

you are right whit this : there are two black wires hooked to this terminal, one go to the ballast, one go out of the box,

so in deed, it supply's the ballast as wel as something (that in this case would be a potential other light build in the hood)