Can I have 2-90degree bends in my pump input?

[Delphinus]

I'm trying to decide how to run, and where to place, my sump return pump (Little Giant 4 -- input pipe size is 1" ).

I would "like" to place the pump in behind my sump, for space reasons. Problem is, the space for the pump to fit in there is barely 8". The pump will fit nicely if it's placed in parallel to the sump, it won't fit at all if it's placed perpendicular (which is the typical arrangement, you want to see the pump input "facing" the direction where the water is coming from..)

Two options I'm considering:

1) Drill the side of the sump, and use 1 90-degree bend from the bulkhead to the pump input.

2) Use the existing bulkhead on the right side of the sump, and use 2 90-degree bends to get from the bulkhead to the pump input.

The advantage to #1 is that the fewer bends on the pump input, the better. But the stand-off pipe will end up being very small, and maybe not long enough to be able to completely dissipate vibration, and pump vibration is not something I want to see on a sump wall.

Option #2 would take care of the length of the stand-off pipe very easily, but is it perhaps not a good idea to have 2 90-degree bends on a pump input? I don't know how much this will restrict the input and I know one should never restrict the input of a pump, only the output.

Not sure which is the "slightly better" or "slightly worse" idea. Opinions please?

Thanks..

[ 04 June 2002, 07:36: Message edited by: delphinus ]

[CHEAPREEF]

Dez from up here, uses 3 90deg bends on his pump input. The sump is not drilled and the pump sits outside the tank with the input syphoning out to the pump. I don't think it's a problem once the initial syphon has been started. Just my $.02 though.

Clinton

[Dez]

Hey Tony,

Why don't you cover of your drilled sump and cap it off, and then Hard plump your little giant making sure you have a "quick release" part (I don't know what you call those things but it's those pieces where you can unscrew and take apart hard plumbing easily) near the top of the sump so that it goes over top of your sump and back into the sump. To prime the pump, you just fill the input pipe with water and then screw in the rest of your plumbing and away you go. It will hold its prime even when the power goes out. As long as your water lever does not fall lower than the input pipe (common sense). Just make sure that your input pipe is large. I think mine's like 1 1/4 inches or something, definitely larger that the input on the pump. That way, you can remove your pump easily. Am I making any sense? That would make 3 90 degree bends like Clinton said. Cheers. I was in Calgary on the weekend and was going to come over with Alan, but we got busy.. Talk to you later and come to E-town soon. You'll have to see my new 150 gallon set-up.

Dez

[DJ88]

Tony,

Go for option number two. If you are worried about restrictions on your intake go up a size in PVC(ie to 1.5 inch or 1 1/4). Have only the bulkhead as a narrower point. All that will really happen then is it speeds up to get past the narrower point(a venturi basically).

As well if you can put the unions in that Bob has mentioned. If you can justify the cost get a true union. It's a ball valve and union in one fitting. smile.gif

[SuperFudge]

Sorry,misread.

[ 04 June 2002, 19:58: Message edited by: Superfudge ]

[titus]

Hello,

Comments for the other replies. It is always good to have unions but make sure you have a valve in place to shut off the water from completly draining out of the sump. Also, I go with 2 unions and a ball valve, instead of a true union. It is quite a bit cheaper this way but will result in a longer fitting.

Titus