Newbie advise needed... Diary of a new tank junkie

[ensquire]

Warning! Long winded newbie post!!

Just over a year of Saltwater experience. First time posting here.

I acquired an 80 gallon Bow front tank. The owner had hired a local guy to maintain it and had done so for a while but then just stopped showing up.
Buddy asked me to have a look at it and it was in rough shape. Tank had 7 fish, no sand, 50 - 60 lbs mostly dead rock, algae running wild, and 2 to 3 inches of fish sludge on the bottom. Sump skimmer was running wide open spraying water through the lid , so worst salt creep ever. Really bad shape, but such a nice tank.
Original intent was to break it down, clean everything and set it back up in my office, so I saved a lot of the water, stored rock in buckets with water and moved fish to home tank. Had to take tank to the car wash to clean it.Of course, during the move, we snapped off one of the plumbing fixture elbows. Upon inspection I realized that the plumbing was totally inadequate and needed to be replaced. Now I live in Yellowknife, NT so this is not a matter of going to the LFS and picking up parts, NO. Hello J&L, week to get bulkheads. No problem, give me time to get other fittings etc. NOPE, needed new fittings to make up rest of plumbing runs. Also had to build new stand because salt creep had destroyed particle board stand. (Why do manufactures use this ???) Cleaned up all equipment, ordered new bulbs for fixtures etc.
Bulkheads arrive, multiple trips to every building supply and plumbing shop, plumbing is finished. Fill up box that plumbing lines run through to check for leaks, checked out, so started to fill tank with stored original water, topped off with new water approx 50/50 old/new saltwater. Turned on system to circulate and heat water. Added 80lbs Live sand and let it settle for a day or 2. Tank is starting to look good but find that Coralife Super Skimmer is missing its O-ring and, just by chance, the Coralife at home has snapped off at the drain hole. Guess what. can't order replacement at any of my normal suppliers. More on this later. Anyway, I find one that is close and does the job for now.
Add Live (dead) rock to tank and sump and I like the look of the tank even more. The tank now consists of:

80 gallon Bow Front tank
30 gallon sump 3 chamber
single drain and return plumbed through corner box ( Danger here I Think)
Coralife 125 Super Skimmer
Return pump (looking for advise on needed flow rate, best quietest, etc.)
2 Hydor Koralia 600 GPH power heads
2 heaters (1 in tank, 1 in Sump)
2 Coralife 130w PC fixture with 2 50/50 bulbs per
80 lbs live sand
60 lbs rock, mostly dead and will be used as base.

Tank has been running now for 3 weeks and is crystal clear,
need to do a bit of finish work on base but is functional as is.
But I am thinking that this would look good in my living room and I don't have room for 2 tanks at home. Home tank is:
36 gallon All Glass Bow front tank
Coralife 65 Super Skimmer
2 Hydor Koralia 600 GPH Power heads
Fluval 304 Canister Filter
Fluval E series 100 Heater
Hagen T5 Glo Double Fixture
LED moonlight string
3 Ocellaris Clowns (Half Stripe, Arrow, and of course Nemo.)
2 Pink Skunk Clowns (Peach and Pug)
Tomato Clown (Beefsteak)
Yellow tail Damsel
Domino Damsel
3 Stripe Damsel
Fire Angel (Redbull)
Orange Watchman Goby (Scoop)
Bi color Blenny (Pugly)
2 cleaner Shrimp
Banded Shrimp
Sally Lightfoot Crab
Porcelain Crab
Numerous Hermits and snails
2 condi anemones
sabae
one other anemone
Flame Scallop
Red Mushroom
blue Mushroom
spotted mushroom

Here are the questions.

1) Would it be possible to drain 80 gallon, save water, move home, transfer water, rock and fish from home tank and not have to let it cycle?
2) What would be ideal media for second chamber in Sump? I have skimmer in first, rock in second and pump/heater in third, but the rock is dead as far as I can tell and I need to replace it.

If you have made it this far, Thanks for your patience.
All advise welcome and appreciatted
Any obvious holes in system should be pointed out.
Pictures to follow.


Thanks

Mike

[Lampshade]

You may still have some of the 80lb rock cycling, but as for the transfer it shouldn't cause any more. I recently upgraded from a 55 to a 150 and showed 0 amonia/nitrites through the whole thing. I used new sand, and mostly new water, i tranfered some water back and forth between the 2 tanks for a bit to try and soften the shock to fish/coral.

Dead rock isn't a problem, you may have die off that will cause ammoonia/nitites for a short while, but the rock will re-seed itself and become live rock very quickly. Biggest thing I've learned and been told by most in this hobby, is just take your time. I'd wait a bit before adding fish, test for ammonia/nitrites to see when you tank has properly cycled. Then add stuff nice and easy.


The second chamber is pretty good with the rock imo, look into perhaps making it a refugium one day with some macro algee and a light, but rock itself is most of the filtration in our tanks.

[ensquire]

Thanks
I do see new growth on the rock which is very encouraging as I have a nice looking reef design going on. Since this is my first sump , I will do some more reading on here.
I have a couple of concerns. first of all, there is a single drain and return and I see the danger in this so I suppose that when I break it down I should add another drain. Where does a person get the bits or do most take the tank to a glass shop and have them do it ?
My return line has 2 elbows in it , does this stress the pump ?

Once again all advise welcome

[Melonbob]

Hello! Welcome to reefing! I have owned several tanks over the years, up to a 180 gallon that I just sold a year ago when I relocated up here to yellowknife. If you have any specific questions I can help out through PM, or I can come over and take a look. To answer your one question, how big is the single drain you have? Although two is always better than one, usually tanks that size only have a single drain. You would have to get a diamond hole saw, and I left mine with all my tools in Ontario. Remember that if you add a drain, you are losing that much more tank when you add an overflow. If you find any more deals on tanks, let me know, I am wanting to start one up here bad!

[reefwars]

Thanks
I do see new growth on the rock which is very encouraging as I have a nice looking reef design going on. Since this is my first sump , I will do some more reading on here.
I have a couple of concerns. first of all, there is a single drain and return and I see the danger in this so I suppose that when I break it down I should add another drain. Where does a person get the bits or do most take the tank to a glass shop and have them do it ?
My return line has 2 elbows in it , does this stress the pump ?

Once again all advise welcome

Another option would be to plumb your return lines over the back of your tank directly from your sump and use the both drains in your overflows as drains. Having just one drain is not a good thing one large snail and game over, my tank has 4 x 1 1/2" drains .... Two main drains and two emergency drains but one of each in a normal tank is ideal:)

[Melonbob]

I somewhat disagree. Two drains are ideal, but I wouldn't give up the real estate in an 80g to drill another one. Put in a stockman standpipe on your overflow, and you aren't going to get blockage from a snail. I've had at least 10 tanks now, including 5 at once and never had a blocked overflow. I build the standpipe without gluing any of the pipe, and take it apart every once in awhile and clean out any buildup. Two elbows will slow your drain a bit, but its pretty standard to have two 90's in a drain.

[reefwars]

ensquire you are right to be concerned with one drain trust me many others will say if you can have two then go for it without you run the risk of a blocked drain doesn't matter if others say they run their tank with one I guarantee two is better and can even be quiter( check out herbie silent overflow) on reefcentral it's a great read on the risks of one drain and the bonuses of a true quiet system. There's always more than a snails that blocks overflows a large bubbletip can do damage as can fish or crabs urchins or snails that get trapped.

Sleep easy and go on vacation knowing you won't flood your display always play it safe as you can:):)

cheers:)

[Melonbob]

Like I said two is ideal, but you only have an 80g. The only tank I had two drains on was my 180. Never had a flood yet. A stockman standpipe has several holes in it, and a cover over the top of them, the chances of anything blocking it are very slim if done right. and if you use your return as a second drain, they will be right beside each other and if by some reason a large bubbletip or something gets in there, it could very well plug both anyways. If you are set on a second drain, I would go with one in the opposite corner, but be aware that the overflow is going to take up another 6"x6" of tank space. How big diameter is the drain you have?

[reefwars]

Like I said two is ideal, but you only have an 80g. The only tank I had two drains on was my 180. Never had a flood yet. A stockman standpipe has several holes in it, and a cover over the top of them, the chances of anything blocking it are very slim if done right. and if you use your return as a second drain, they will be right beside each other and if by some reason a large bubbletip or something gets in there, it could very well plug both anyways. If you are set on a second drain, I would go with one in the opposite corner, but be aware that the overflow is going to take up another 6"x6" of tank space. How big diameter is the drain you have?

They would be next to each other but if they are at different heights you won't block both so say your main drain is closer to the bottom if that gets clogged water rises then your emergency kicks in when it reaches that height in fact my emergency drain doesn't touch water unless a clog happens, again read up on a herbie style overflow completely quiet and safe.

[pirate]

Depends on where your return is located. If they are both in the overflow box then make it a drain. Do a herbie, so quiet, My equipement makes most of my noise. In my tank I had a drain in a overflow and the return in the other corner, I herbied it. And have my return coming up over the back. I do see 1 (emergency drain line) but if it had been the return you'd still see it. I like the peice of mind of having a back up, incase something happens.

[reefwars]

Depends on where your return is located. If they are both in the overflow box then make it a drain. Do a herbie, so quiet, My equipement makes most of my noise. In my tank I had a drain in a overflow and the return in the other corner, I herbied it. And have my return coming up over the back. I do see 1 (emergency drain line) but if it had been the return you'd still see it. I like the peice of mind of having a back up, incase something happens.

Same here my skimmers bubbles are the loudest thing I hear, and I get no sump noise or gushing water I have mine made as a true herbie with durso emergency stockman standpipe as my main drain with gate valve and all my returns are housed in through my overflow .

Drilling isn't that hard either if you don't want to run the lines over you could also drill through the back for returns or another drain if your tank is drillable:)

[paddyob]

Putting a snail screen on your drain keeps snails out as well. People have been running single drains for a long time and, I agree... if you clean your tank and pipes on occasion you should not have to worry about it.

Sure Denny, a second drain is nice... but not necessary. It comes down to personal choice I believe. Single drain tanks would not be out there if they did not work. Having an emergency drain is something easy to do if, say you build a 200 gallon custom and they factor the cut into it already. :wink:

I almost added a second... but after soliciting advice from several reefers and staff at a few LFS, I cam to the conclusion to leave my single drain and clean it and the screen.

Maybe its famous last words.......

[reefwars]

Putting a snail screen on your drain keeps snails out as well. People have been running single drains for a long time and, I agree... if you clean your tank and pipes on occasion you should not have to worry about it.

Sure Denny, a second drain is nice... but not necessary. It comes down to personal choice I believe. Single drain tanks would not be out there if they did not work. Having an emergency drain is something easy to do if, say you build a 200 gallon custom and they factor the cut into it already. :wink:

I almost added a second... but after soliciting advice from several reefers and staff at a few LFS, I cam to the conclusion to leave my single drain and clean it and the screen.

Maybe its famous last words.......


A tank need not be custom made for a herbie style overflow and it doesn't need extra real state ......i mean CPR overflow boxes are " safe" but I wouldn't use one even though some say they never had a flood. And call me nuts but constantly moving and cleaning a snail guard( which would have to cover your complete overflow or us no more effective than a stanpipe filter cap) is not fun nor is the worry of it and it's def not pleasing on the eye, again I suggest reading up on herbie style overflows and then say one drain is as good . Fact of the matter is you can do alot of different styles but in the end having a emergency drain makes total sense and if it can be incorporated then it won't hurt in anyway , I also understand that some tanks don't have the option but I don't think that's the case here:)

herbie all the way baby lol the best fight against floods we have is being prepared for the worst case scenario. I

[Melonbob]

I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree on this one...... :wink:

But I guess one could just put in four and fill up your tank with drains. It will look like crud, but will be extra safe. Thousands upon thousands of people have used single drains on smaller tanks for eons with zero issues. In fact I can't think of a single tank I've personally seen under 120 with dual drains.

[reefwars]

I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree on this one...... :wink:

But I guess one could just put in four and fill up your tank with drains. It will look like crud, but will be extra safe. Thousands upon thousands of people have used single drains on smaller tanks for eons with zero issues. In fact I can't think of a single tank I've personally seen under 120 with dual drains.

I'm sorry wasn't trying to offend you he just simply said he had a concern and if there is something he could do as dril it, I said if he didn't want to drill he had this as another option. Yes lots of people run single drains and all my previous ones were as well but if he wants to do two he should be open to the idea as alot of people are now going that route:) cheers

[Melonbob]

I wasn't offended, thus the :wink:

And I agreed from the start, two drains are better than one, but I wouldn't do in in an 80. Maybe I just feel 80 is already cramped after having a 180, and I like as little as possible showing in the tank.

All this talk has got me really wanting to start up again.....man it's tough up here, no used tanks to be found. If the original poster comes across any other deals in YK, I'm interested.

[Melonbob]

Trust me, I got way thicker skin than these boards put out! After being told on another board for 12 months I was a greedy bully because I was on strike only asking to keep what we already had, this is refreshing! lol

[reefwars]

Trust me, I got way thicker skin than these boards put out! After being told on another board for 12 months I was a greedy bully because I was on strike only asking to keep what we already had, this is refreshing! lol



Have you considered Ordering acrylic and building one?? I know ts expensive as he'll but probably ships better ??:):)

[Melonbob]

Acrylic scares me, I've only ever had one 30g sump out of acrylic and it let go and dumped on my hardwood floor..........):

I am going to keep my eyes open though, something will pop up.

[ensquire]

I ordered a proper livestock stand pipe and new fittings etc and am probably going to replumb the overflow box as is. I was seriously considering an outer overflow box but I think I will save that for my next bigger tank. I will find a piece of acrylic and make a cover for the overflow box and keep an eye on it.
What I'm really learning here is that making decisions on the fly isn't all that wise, going slow and planning things before hand is the way to go. but i guess that will be the next tank. LOL

[SmallFry]

What I'm really learning here is that making decisions on the fly isn't all that wise, going slow and planning things before hand is the way to go. but i guess that will be the next tank. LOL

Very true. With my first tank there were a number of things that I did that didn't make sense. In the light of what I learned I planned my upgrade tank way in advance (build is at 18 months and counting) but still a number of things got adjusted on the fly - never underestimate the "Ooh - shiny!" factor.. :biggrin:

[ensquire]

I'm so new it all looks shiny LOL

I did learn today that I need a bigger drain pipe. Crappy little pump only pushes 320GPH and if its running wide open the drain is just adequite, on an 80 gallon tank thats not a big enough flow rate

[intarsiabox]

My 90g has only a single over flow in one corner and I used both holes for overflows, one herbie and one straight pipe for emergency overflows. It's not that I'm worried about clogs it's that this way I can place my return line into the tank at the opposite corner of the over flow so it directs the water and any debris into the over flow instead of away from it making it more efficient. No need to drill anything, it doesn't take up any more space and also less plumbing for my return pipe as the return pump is directly under the opposite side of the tank from the overflow.

[reefwars]

My 90g has only a single over flow in one corner and I used both holes for overflows, one herbie and one straight pipe for emergency overflows. It's not that I'm worried about clogs it's that this way I can place my return line into the tank at the opposite corner of the over flow so it directs the water and any debris into the over flow instead of away from it making it more efficient. No need to drill anything, it doesn't take up any more space and also less plumbing for my return pipe as the return pump is directly under the opposite side of the tank from the overflow.


i bet its super quiet too :):)

[ensquire]

Thanks and now the next series of questions. LOL
Drain is a 1" bulkhead with a 3/4" straight pipe and the drain has 3/4" pipe with 2 elbows draining into sump. Return is a 320 GPH pump hooked to a short piece of hose into a 1/2" run about 3' long with 2 elbows attached to a 1/2" bulkhead with a 1/2" pipe into a Locline nozzle. I don't like the open drain, and have experimented with several types of drains, but whenever I change from the straight open end I have to throttle back my pump. I would like and need more than 320 GPH flow, which brings me to
My questions about my options.
Is there any effect on the drainage if I make the pipes bigger before and after the bulkhead? It is still a 1" opening.
I see several options but would like to get some opinions and feedback on them.
My first thought was to order some glass bits and bore out the openings inside the overflow box but my concerns are about how close the boles will be and the space underneath would be tight but might be an option.
Option 2) Use both lines in overflow box az drains (Herbie, or other).Increase pipe to 1 1 1/2 before bulkhead and 1" after. Run an exterior line up the back thAt would tee off into 2 returns drilled thru back of the tank and use nozzles to have some flow behind the reef. in the tank. If this is best option, should the return be a single line or double and should it be 1/2, 3/4, or 1" based on the size of the drain?
Option 2) use 1' bulkhead in overflow box as 1' return line and use second pipe as emergency overflow. Then build either an interior or an exterior overflow box on the back of the tank?

I would like to increase my pump to a Quiet One pushing 800 GPH if I can work out this plumbing problem, and I am really stuck here. My tank has been running for a month now with only the liverock in it and I am dying to start stocking it, but I feel that this will be a mistake until I address this plumbing/flow situation.

Thanks.

Mike


Or option 3) I am overreacting and I should be happy with present situation?

[SmallFry]

Thanks and now the next series of questions. LOL
Drain is a 1" bulkhead with a 3/4" straight pipe and the drain has 3/4" pipe with 2 elbows draining into sump. Return is a 320 GPH pump hooked to a short piece of hose into a 1/2" run about 3' long with 2 elbows attached to a 1/2" bulkhead with a 1/2" pipe into a Locline nozzle. I don't like the open drain, and have experimented with several types of drains, but whenever I change from the straight open end I have to throttle back my pump. I would like and need more than 320 GPH flow, which brings me to
My questions about my options.
Is there any effect on the drainage if I make the pipes bigger before and after the bulkhead? It is still a 1" opening.
I see several options but would like to get some opinions and feedback on them.
My first thought was to order some glass bits and bore out the openings inside the overflow box but my concerns are about how close the boles will be and the space underneath would be tight but might be an option.
Option 2) Use both lines in overflow box az drains (Herbie, or other).Increase pipe to 1 1 1/2 before bulkhead and 1" after. Run an exterior line up the back thAt would tee off into 2 returns drilled thru back of the tank and use nozzles to have some flow behind the reef. in the tank. If this is best option, should the return be a single line or double and should it be 1/2, 3/4, or 1" based on the size of the drain?
Option 2) use 1' bulkhead in overflow box as 1' return line and use second pipe as emergency overflow. Then build either an interior or an exterior overflow box on the back of the tank?

I would like to increase my pump to a Quiet One pushing 800 GPH if I can work out this plumbing problem, and I am really stuck here. My tank has been running for a month now with only the liverock in it and I am dying to start stocking it, but I feel that this will be a mistake until I address this plumbing/flow situation.

Thanks.

Mike


Or option 3) I am overreacting and I should be happy with present situation?

I've recently finished plumbing my 75 gallon, and some of my experience form doing this might be applicable given some of your bulkhead sizing and the newer pump you're talking about. I'll be honest though and say I'm no expert as this is my first system with a sump..

My system is running a quiet one 4000, that given the head height I reckon is probably (according to the graph on the box) pushing 600 - 800 gph. I'm running on 1" bulkheads with 1" drains also. The drain system I chose is a three drain herbie (also sometimes referred to as a bean animal), I realize that you only have two holes, but the third drain is just an extra paranoia measure which I could easily accommodate by just adding an extra hole in my overflow box, so I did it while I had the drill out.. The returns are 1" single up to about the level of the bottom of the tank where it splits and goes up the back of the tank and over the edge, also in 1". I then have some 1" pvc end caps that I've drilled 5/8" holes in to get a bit of pressure behind it (these aren't glued so I cab remove/redrill/replace as whim dictates..

There are some pictures of my set up in the build threads on my sig. They probably explain it far better than I have! The early for the 75 are in the latter parts of the 27 log - and why not, because that makes complete sense! :lol:

I found that with the return pump at full belt I still have to close my ball valve somewhat in order to make any flow through the second drain and keep the main one air free, so one 1" with 1" plumbing downstream drain can handle in excess of the required flow from my pump. You mentioned that there were two holes in the overflow box, if one is 1" then you're home free, because your main 1" drain can handle the flow plus some, then your second can also handle it if the main one blocks completely, and a herbie is totally doable.. if the second hole is the 1/2" return you mentioned, then things become more complicated, or you may have to accept that you can't handle the flow if your main drain blocks completely (how likely a complete blockage is I don't know) surely though, it's safer than a single drain..

If you build an overflow box I'd vote for external - I really like mine a lot because it doesn't intrude on the tank at all. I'm so glad I didn't go internal as I'd originally planned. Now if I can only stop the cats trying to drink out of it.. :mrgreen:

Either way, I'd be very tempted to get rid of that 3/4" section in your drain, no doubt that would increase your drain flow a lot, and save you throttling back the pump...

[ensquire]

Thanks for the insight smallfry, I like the bean animal setup and was in the mix as well.
Did you DIY the whole setup? If I go this way I would probably need a box built. Who does this ?

[reefwars]

Thanks and now the next series of questions. LOL
Drain is a 1" bulkhead with a 3/4" straight pipe and the drain has 3/4" pipe with 2 elbows draining into sump. Return is a 320 GPH pump hooked to a short piece of hose into a 1/2" run about 3' long with 2 elbows attached to a 1/2" bulkhead with a 1/2" pipe into a Locline nozzle. I don't like the open drain, and have experimented with several types of drains, but whenever I change from the straight open end I have to throttle back my pump. I would like and need more than 320 GPH flow, which brings me to
My questions about my options.
Is there any effect on the drainage if I make the pipes bigger before and after the bulkhead? It is still a 1" opening.
I see several options but would like to get some opinions and feedback on them.
My first thought was to order some glass bits and bore out the openings inside the overflow box but my concerns are about how close the boles will be and the space underneath would be tight but might be an option.
Option 2) Use both lines in overflow box az drains (Herbie, or other).Increase pipe to 1 1 1/2 before bulkhead and 1" after. Run an exterior line up the back thAt would tee off into 2 returns drilled thru back of the tank and use nozzles to have some flow behind the reef. in the tank. If this is best option, should the return be a single line or double and should it be 1/2, 3/4, or 1" based on the size of the drain?
Option 2) use 1' bulkhead in overflow box as 1' return line and use second pipe as emergency overflow. Then build either an interior or an exterior overflow box on the back of the tank?

I would like to increase my pump to a Quiet One pushing 800 GPH if I can work out this plumbing problem, and I am really stuck here. My tank has been running for a month now with only the liverock in it and I am dying to start stocking it, but I feel that this will be a mistake until I address this plumbing/flow situation.

Thanks.

Mike


Or option 3) I am overreacting and I should be happy with present situation?





hey mike so with a return pump only rated at 320gph and having a tank of 80g leaves you 4x turnover when you would usually want minimum 5x or as much as can be delivered. so id say a upgrade in pumps is a good start and then if it were my tank i would use the two holes i have and run my lines directly over the back as in your idea.

i dont think using bigger pipes going to a smaller bulkhead hole is gonna increase gph but im not sure and it probably could im sure theres some logic behind it but in the end a hole will only fit so much water.i guess it would depend on the overflow method you choose.

it sounds like your not afraid to drill holes and are prepared to do so , so why not make them bigger or add one?? if you do just make sure to know the bulheads you are going to use or at least how much space to leave in between each hole:):)


fwiw i hate 3/4" plumbing and even more so 1/2" i think 1" is great for your tank and imo i like to have my drain hole size bigger than my return hole size:):) cheers sounds like your on the right track:)

[SmallFry]

Thanks for the insight smallfry, I like the bean animal setup and was in the mix as well.
Did you DIY the whole setup? If I go this way I would probably need a box built. Who does this ?

Pretty much the whole thing is diy, apart from the tanks, but I did replace the back panel in the main tank and then cut the slots for the overflow and resealed the sump. The overflow box wasn't hard to build, just remember to use thicker glass on the bottom like I didn't the first time! :mrgreen:

Probably your glass shop would be able to build it, but don't know whether they'd have aquarium safe silicone. Really isn't that hard to do yourself if the glass is cut for you. Just remember, when working with silicone, masking tape is your friend....

The plumbing was pretty easy, just have to make sure you get the stuff dry assembled first to make sure it all fits at the right lengths etc. I also found that it's worth marking the pipes and fittings while dry assembled because you want to get things on the right way around and also the fittings slide in easier/further once you've got the adhesive on so you could accidentally end up with the pipe shorter than you planned, and with that glue you don't have much thinking time!

[ensquire]

Okay then, Now for a out of left field question.
Has anyone ever sealed off 2 bottom holes and not had problems??
What Im thinking is that I would like to eliminate the corner overflow box entirely and use a piece of glass and lotsa silicone to seal off the holes in the bottom. What are the chances of success????? I would then demolish the corner box and go with a rear exterior overflow and drill 2 return lines at both ends of the rear glass panel. Don't wanna do the over the top return.

Opinions???????????

[ensquire]

Just a couple pics to let you know what we are looking at. This is the tank as it sits right now....Just waiting LOL for fish and corals and whatever, probably going to be a large zoa tank.

[ensquire]

Opps Okay Milad How do we downsize these pics??????

[ensquire]

This is where I am at right now with the tank. Just finished skinning the stand, It's ready for painting. Just have to find some magnets and louvers for the doors.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/18798128/Tank%20pics/80%20gal002a-800.jpg


Pic with Moonlights on makes weird glow
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/18798128/Tank%20pics/80%20gal003a-800.jpg


Moonlights with houselights off , All Iphone pics

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/18798128/Tank%20pics/80%20gal004a-800.jpg

[SmallFry]

Okay then, Now for a out of left field question.
Has anyone ever sealed off 2 bottom holes and not had problems??
What Im thinking is that I would like to eliminate the corner overflow box entirely and use a piece of glass and lotsa silicone to seal off the holes in the bottom. What are the chances of success????? I would then demolish the corner box and go with a rear exterior overflow and drill 2 return lines at both ends of the rear glass panel. Don't wanna do the over the top return.

Opinions???????????

Don't know about sealing off the holes with a piece of glass, my worry would be the load concentrating around the edges of the piece of glass you put over the top...

Of course you could simply cap off the bulkheads in the bottom. Sounds a little quick and dirty, but possibly a workable solution?

Rob.

[ensquire]

What exactly would one use to cut the tank? I went over your thread Smallfry and am a little unsure. Was it a dremel product diamond wheel? Checked the local box stores yesterday and could not find anything that resembles a diamond cutting wheel. Had to order all my fittings online cause noone in Yellowknife handles PVC to any degree,
This is gonna take forever.

[SmallFry]

What exactly would one use to cut the tank? I went over your thread Smallfry and am a little unsure. Was it a dremel product diamond wheel? Checked the local box stores yesterday and could not find anything that resembles a diamond cutting wheel. Had to order all my fittings online cause noone in Yellowknife handles PVC to any degree,
This is gonna take forever.

The slots in the back were made by using a diamond drill bit (3/8") to make each end, then I cut between the tops and bottoms with a 2" diamond cutting wheel from Princess Auto which was I think cheaper than the dremel one. I found that it was best to create an initial groove to follow with the cutting wheel on the dremel which is more manoeuvrable, then once that was done to do the rest of the cutting with the cutting wheel mounted in a drill which has the torque to use a reasonable amount of pressure (you just have to make sure you back off the pressure as you cut the last of the way through). Also, I found it caused less chipping if you cut against the direction of rotation of the cutting wheel. No doubt you could do it all with the dremel, but with mine, I couldn't apply enough pressure to cut sensibly without overheating it.. It was, however, Jobmates version of a dremel - enough said.... :biggrin:

The holes in the bottom of the overflow were cut with a hole saw, also from Princess Auto.

Hope that's a little more clear - sometimes it's hard to translate what you remember into a coherent explanation on paper...

[ensquire]

Thanks Smallfry, what are the dimensions of your overflo box? Yours is glass ? Can lexan be used for external box? What adhesive is best ? Man I ask a lot of questions LOL
Ordered most of what I needed today because I could not find one thing here as far as plumging or bits etc. Probably take a week or so to get here. In the mean time I will tear tank down again and store the rock in a big bin with skimmer and powerheads. Paint and seal the stand, so there are things to do.
I wish this wasnt such a barren area for supplies and livestock.
I have been running the tank for about a month now and have a hair algae problem to deal with .

[SmallFry]

Thanks Smallfry, what are the dimensions of your overflo box? Yours is glass ? Can lexan be used for external box? What adhesive is best ? Man I ask a lot of questions LOL
Ordered most of what I needed today because I could not find one thing here as far as plumging or bits etc. Probably take a week or so to get here. In the mean time I will tear tank down again and store the rock in a big bin with skimmer and powerheads. Paint and seal the stand, so there are things to do.
I wish this wasnt such a barren area for supplies and livestock.
I have been running the tank for about a month now and have a hair algae problem to deal with .

My overflow box is 36" long by 4" back to front by 6" deep. Mine is indeed glass, bonded with silicone. Because I couldn't get 10 mil glass for the bottom second time around without specially ordering it, the bottom is a laminate of two layers of 6 mil - an interesting process in itself.. My overflow slots are 1' 3" long each, and from the freshwater tests seem to skim off a nice thin surface layer (miraculously the basement floor in that part of the house is level in moth directions).

You could no doubt build an overflow box from Lexan, the problem, however, is that from what I've heard silicone doesn't stick to Lexan etc very well, and I don't off hand know of anything that sticks to both plastic or glass strongly enough to be safe. For an internal overflow box some people do use silicone, but the loads and consequences of failure are different so I wouldn't chance it externally...

I hear you on the supplies front, we're OK here for general stuff, but when you get to fishy stuff it gets a little limited without a couple of hour trip or you end up getting stuff online - or paying very much over the odds. The problem with online is you have the postage to pay; I just found out that the shipping on for a $30 heater is $15 plus! I'm sure there's a parallel universe somewhere in which that makes sense.. :mrgreen: