FishyFishy's 33 Gal SPS dedicated build

[FishyFishy!]

So I started this project on October 20th, after receiving a $10 33 REGULAR with overflow score off kijiji. I am just now getting to my build thread. In fact, I just did the whole thing which took me an hour... then clicked something... and it erased the whole thing!!! :twised: Anyways, this will be my first SPS dominated tank... and I can't wait! Tank is currently cycling.
__________________________________________________ _____________
***Current FTS (cycling) - Novemeber 1st, 2010***
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1780.jpg

Tank:

33 Gallon Long (36"L X 12"D X 15"h) Rimless tank
Right corner overflow - 1 stand pipe, open top, drilled sides.
Black acrylic covers on overflow with combs at the top
All sides but front painted black

Stand:

DIY 2X4 stand
42" tall !! I wanted it around eye level when watching TV. Perfect!

Sump:

Megaflow Model 3 sump
Phospad and floss in prefilter
Rubble/dead SPS in media area
Floss in bubble trap
Mini Fuge with Cheato Macro in return chamber

Equipment:

Lighting -

Main - Wavepoint 36" fixture with 4 X 39W bulbs (2X 460NM + 2X 10,000K)
Moonlights - Oddysea 18 LED moonlight submersable tube
Fuge light - Clamp on fixture with 10,000 K screw in bulb

Water movement -

1 Koralia Nano
Return pump - Coralife Turbo Sea 1270 (1268 GPH rating)

Skimmer -

Return pump driven Berlin X2 (upgrading to hydor performer soon)
In sump

Reactor -

AquaC XP Plus - return pump driven
SeaChem Purigen
Boyd Chemi Pure Elite

Electronics/ATO -

Tunze Osmolator (Not installed... have to get un-lazy)
DIY GFCI outlet on electronics board
2X Powerbars
1 Woods digital timer (love these things)
Apex controller to come.

Heat -

300W Fluval E300 digital heater in sump.

Plumbing

1" PVC all the way through
1 X check valve
4 X Ball valves
Still waiting on my reducers for in tank return. (currently have just a PVC outlets).

Stock

15 Lbs Jakarta live rock - Thanks Red Coral!
40 Lb huge rock! - this thing is just huge.

Things to do:

- Install tunze Osmolator
- Build/purchase cabinet panels
- Purchase Apex controller
- Purchase dosing system

Build Pics-

Stand finished, sump plumbing mocked up.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/IMG01027-20101014-1707.jpg

Stand Painted, sump plumbed, return pump attached
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1763.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1764.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1776.jpg

Electronics panel, powerbars, GFCI outlet
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1767.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1769.jpg

Tank now set up. Rocks in, leaks fixed - Waiting on the cycle!
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1780.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1784.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1783.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1782.jpg

Left the overflow un-painted to see what goin on in thurr!
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1781.jpg

Sump
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1773.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1778.jpg

Mini Fuge/Cheato
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1789.jpg

Electronics Panel
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1779.jpg

Skimmer pulling dark skimmate already
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1788.jpg

AquaC Reactor
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1790.jpg

[FishyFishy!]

Now I have myself a dilemma.... On an SPS dominated tank.... Would you go sand or bare bottom? It is bare bottom now, but I'm pushed towards adding sand for some reason. Any input?

[Skimmerking]

Alot of SPS'ers don't use sand for the reason that they can have huge flow in the tanks. you have a 1270 GPH pump you have lots i take it .

[FishyFishy!]

I'm also having a small issue with micro bubbles. I changed the coarse foam pads I had in the bubble trap to a finer floss. That helped a lot, but there are still quite a few upon closer inspection. Any ideas?

[kien]

Nice tank! I noticed that your "herbie" overflow only has one stand pipe. That's living on the edge! :). Seriously though, if you are in fact using that one pipe as a herbie it can and likely will (down the road) block and cause your tank to overflow! Herbies should always have emergency pipes in case the main can not keep up. Also, I noticed that you are using a ball valve on your drain. Those are a royal pain to dial in your overflow water level. Gate valves are so much easier. With the combination of one stand pipe and a ball valve on that line I would be a little worried.

If you want to add an emergency overflow you can drill a hole into the side of your overflow box that is higher than the top of your main standpipe. Then run that emergency line on the outside of the tank and down to the sump.

[lastlight]

Nice start and I see a lot of my movie collection sitting there behind the tank lol.

Hard to tell from the pics but did you lay plywood down under the tank before you filled it? And is there 2x4s on end underneath your flat lying 2x4s on the stand's top?

[Myka]

I noticed that your "herbie" overflow only has one stand pipe...Also, I noticed that you are using a ball valve on your drain.

If you want to add an emergency overflow you can drill a hole into the side of your overflow box that is higher than the top of your main standpipe. Then run that emergency line on the outside of the tank and down to the sump.

I noticed this too! :eek: Your tank WILL overflow at some point if you use the current design. Kien has suggested a good way to fix the problem. Also you mention a "one way flap valve". I'm assuming this is a check valve. If it is, it won't work for very long. Once the tank has been running for a little while there will be some buildup in the pipes which is normal. This buildup will cause the valve to not work simply from preventing a perfect seal or even from preventing the valve from moving at all.

Btw, your tank is a 33 not a 33 long. A 33 long is 48" long, yours appears to be the standard 36" long.

It is a great looking tank though, and I am interested to see how it turns out!

[FishyFishy!]

Nice start and I see a lot of my movie collection sitting there behind the tank lol.

Hard to tell from the pics but did you lay plywood down under the tank before you filled it? And is there 2x4s on end underneath your flat lying 2x4s on the stand's top?

Yes, over 300 DVD's and counting! hehe. And yes, I have 2X4's on end underneath the flat lying ones. I did not use plywood on the bottom.

Nice tank! I noticed that your "herbie" overflow only has one stand pipe. That's living on the edge! :). Seriously though, if you are in fact using that one pipe as a herbie it can and likely will (down the road) block and cause your tank to overflow! Herbies should always have emergency pipes in case the main can not keep up. Also, I noticed that you are using a ball valve on your drain. Those are a royal pain to dial in your overflow water level. Gate valves are so much easier. With the combination of one stand pipe and a ball valve on that line I would be a little worried.

If you want to add an emergency overflow you can drill a hole into the side of your overflow box that is higher than the top of your main standpipe. Then run that emergency line on the outside of the tank and down to the sump.

I have thought of this over and over in my sleep! haha. I just don't want to take on the idea of drilling the tank at this point. Any other ideas? I also left the standpipe loose (not glued) so that I can remove it and clean it. The holes drilled in the sides will aid as well.

As for the gate valve, I drove around to 4 different stores closest to me and could not find a 1" gate valve. The blue handled one I have is actually smooth as butter for now. Picked it up at Ocean City. Its by far the smoothest ball valve I have seen (for now!). Eventually I will upgrade to a gate valve.

I noticed this too! :eek: Your tank WILL overflow at some point if you use the current design. Kien has suggested a good way to fix the problem. Also you mention a "one way flap valve". I'm assuming this is a check valve. If it is, it won't work for very long. Once the tank has been running for a little while there will be some buildup in the pipes which is normal. This buildup will cause the valve to not work simply from preventing a perfect seal or even from preventing the valve from moving at all.

Btw, your tank is a 33 not a 33 long. A 33 long is 48" long, yours appears to be the standard 36" long.

It is a great looking tank though, and I am interested to see how it turns out!

Yes, I meant check valve. However I must disagree with the valve not working after a while. I have used this same valve (only bigger) in my 110 FOWLR for 2.5 years and its still as clean as a whistle. Maybe I just got lucky? What else would you suggest I use for this type of valve?

I had no idea that a 33 long was a 48! My last 33 was 30", so I assumed it was a long. My mistake! ha:redface: consider it edited.

[FishyFishy!]

I have also noticed that there is quite a bit of what I think is algae (not diatoms). See pics and let me know what to think of it.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1798.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1796.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1797.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1795.jpg

[lastlight]

That will go away I think you're right on the id. They're annoying because the bubbles get chewed up in the powerheads and you think there's a microbubble issue somewhere in the system. When only my T5s are on the bubbles stop being released and my water clears. I'm pretty much clear of this now on my new setup.

Good to hear about the vertical 2x4s. I was more concerned about that then the plywood.

I think the valve thing needs to be sorted out though. You can drill your emergency drain into the back or side panel and add a 90 on the end so it's above your primary.

[FishyFishy!]

Why would you suggest the plywood bottom? Just for weight dispersement?

[FishyFishy!]

Definately the weirdest cycle I have ever had. Has anyone else had this type or hair like algae in a cycle? Every time i've cycled thus far, I've only got minimal algae, and a lot of powdery diatoms. :question:

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1802.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1801.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1800.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/DSCN1799.jpg

Seems excessive to me.

[spawn]

I had that when my tank was cycling. Thought it was normal cause I'm on my first tank. I think i posted some early pics where you can see that kind of algae on one of the early aqua-scapes.

[spawn]

Hermit crabs, astrea snails, & turbo's cleaned that sheite away.

[kien]

I've seen hair algae during cycles. Your tank is fishless at the moment, just keep it fishless for a while and the algae will starve out! No need to add a clean up crew :)

edit: oh, and don't forget your water changes!

[Myka]

The rock had a little more pent up nutrients than usual. Not only do you have hair algae you also have dinoflagellates which is the brown bubbly stuff. If you aren't already, keep the lights turned off, and don't add a clean up crew or fish until it has resolved itself. Large weekly water changes will speed up the process if you want.

[FishyFishy!]

So lights off won't delay or mess with the cycle at all?

[kien]

Nope :)

Nothing in your tank currently requires light, save for that wonderful algae turf you are growing :)

[Myka]

Yes, I meant check valve. However I must disagree with the valve not working after a while. I have used this same valve (only bigger) in my 110 FOWLR for 2.5 years and its still as clean as a whistle. Maybe I just got lucky? What else would you suggest I use for this type of valve?

Personally, I would simply nix the check valve and design the sump to accommodate the back flow of water during power outage and water changes. I would not want to rely on a check valve to keep my floors dry!

[FishyFishy!]

Yeah lights are off for now! (except fuge light).

And I tested the level of the over full sump... and even after the back flow had gone into the sump, and the syphon was broken, there was still and inch left at the top of the sump! So thats good news.

Now to starve away that algae, and figure out a backup strategy for the overflow....

[Binare]

Did you get that rock from kevins latest shipment? If so I'm experiencing the same thing. Pretty well normal with uncured rock like this. It'll just take longer with all the extra nutrients, keep at er and that algae will be gone soon enough.

[FishyFishy!]

Yeah it was from Kevins last shipment. No idea how the algae keeps getting longer when the lights are off... but it'll go away soon. Just did a small 15% water change as well.

[FishyFishy!]

So, just wondering about that overflow backup drain. Would this system work here? Or would the multiple bends not allow flow to start when needed? All made of 1" pvc. top has teeth cut into it.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c38/bilmaga/overflow.jpg

I'm interested in this setup because the new 187 i'm getting only has one hole drilled in the overflow as well.

[xtreme]

I don't think you're emergency would work. You could drill the back of the tank though to make it work.

[Myka]

No, that won't work. You can't have the highest point above the surface or the flow won't start on its own.

[FishyFishy!]

Yeah thats what I thought. I just hate drilling glass... and paying for it is even worse lol. Any other ideas?

[fishytime]

Yeah thats what I thought. I just hate drilling glass... and paying for it is even worse lol. Any other ideas?

once you get your "drillin legs" its not all that bad.......after you've drilled one or two, its all the same:wink::mrgreen: