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View Full Version : WorkHorse 5 ballast wiring help (Edmonton)


catshanon
07-27-2010, 06:04 PM
Hi,
Can anyone offer me some help with wiring a WH5 electronic ballast to 2 T5HOs ? I have a T5 DIY kit with an Advance ballast that is working fine, but I want to get it working with the WH5 so that I can run 2 more bulbs on my tank.
Please let me know if you can help me out. The ballast has been sitting idle for 6 months now and its a waste of money.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks,
Raj

pinhead
07-28-2010, 07:00 AM
go here http://www.fulham.com/

When you select your bulb type on the right, it will take you to page that will show you the wiring diagram for your ballast.

catshanon
07-28-2010, 07:08 AM
go here http://www.fulham.com/

When you select your bulb type on the right, it will take you to page that will show you the wiring diagram for your ballast.

I have done that but still I can't figure it out. I think its the sockets are what causing me problems.

lockecole
07-28-2010, 09:57 PM
The sockets can be a pain.

You have 4 red wires, 2 which you wont use.

1. Get some extra wire(use one of the unused red wires) cut off 4 5-6" pieces of wire, now take 2 of the extra wires, join them together. Now that they are joined connect them to one of the red wires that you will use. Either cap it all off or solder them together, ensure they are connected, now you have 1 wire that turns into two, push them into each side of the socket.

2. Repeat step one for the next socket

3. You will have 1 yellow wire. You essentially have to repeat the same steps for the red wire, but this time you only have 1 wire to work with. Line up the bulbs, strip off the sheathing of the yellow wire in one place and then ensure the end of the wire is stripped off. Get some extra wire 4 @ 5-6" again. Now connect the 2 wires together and then connect them to one of the bare spots on the wire. Repeat the same step on the end of the wire.

This is fairly heavy gauge wire, and it's essential that the wires are bound together tightly and that each of the 2 wires are joined together before joining them to the master wire.

I just wired this a couple of weeks ago and it has worked well. Furthermore with the way that they are connected you can still run 1 bulb if the other is burned out.

I've attached a quick mspaint diagram with the instructions again.

mike31154
07-29-2010, 12:23 AM
I see you wish to run two lamps, but what wattage/size of T5HO are they? This is important to know so that you use the correct number of red wires per lamp and whether the WH5 can do the job. Here are a couple of links (hope they still work) to more information on WH ballasts and compatibility with various sizes of lamps.

http://www.naturallighting.com/pdf_files/workhorse_wire_diagrams.pdf
http://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/Fulham-Lamp-Chart-brochure.pdf

I'm currently overdriving two 54 watt (48 inch) lamps with WH8 ballast and have fans mounted at each end of each lamp for active cooling. The thing with these ballasts is that each end cap needs a jumper wire (both red and yellow side) between the contacts as well as the feed from the appropriate number of red wires and yellow wire at the other end. Here are a couple of photos of my endcaps, HTH.

I used black jumpers and feed wire from terminal at the yellow end.
http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pakwbihuhaVBSAHvgc7DPgw7a5Rs1fNCnUQ_SdSV0p1bPCpK _qJZpXvVXfJ6RxoI0dR2yXlDYePKsYLdIYRpuQQ/P1030324a.JPG?psid=1

This is the red end. Two red wires were joined at a terminal board with a single red from the terminal board to the endcap... and the jumper wire of course
http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1p7hYA6dPc86bU0nTfZYt68w5JnZs99HAk6KpnPT62W26DXt_ qIoc___dgpT7qYyA_g6UZrc5UX_5MFbshKjlBdg/P1030325a.JPG?psid=1


If you don't want to solder, use wire nuts to connect the wires together before terminating them in the end cap, or do as I have and use terminal boards.

Pics of the DC fans I'm using to cool the lamp ends. Don't recall when I last changed lamps and they're still shining bright with absolutely no sign of blackening at the ends despite being overdriven. Active cooling at the ends makes a world of difference
http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pdeCAojmS5mZIZ6bU54uJmW_ZKAaj5k2421Czjz6oxI5wfyI c_br49UXvcGp2FHIiej90u3WcMxggSW4YpnBItg/P1030292a.JPG?psid=1

http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1py4NOnf_sy811x8Zo35wmelH8FzJFyd9YAdVGV66XaO3hHLx 5g1h_a9Wxxl_YPnVzfrHt5RiQ9SpXP76JvcEldQ/P1030293a.JPG?psid=1

http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pyL7X5aDvBbgE_qaEda4K9zTnb-T4l6ROHvxJZvZrSlb_MSVApVhSHuBtHG-r08o9DzCrIWK5IM2LBqMtuZeulg/P1030289a.JPG?psid=1