Tank Leveling Advice.........Please.

[Charlie_Tuna]

My basement floor is a concrete slab.

Naturally, the location that I have chosen for my 180-gallon tank is out of level 3/4" from left to right over the 6' span.

In trying to determine the best method to get my stand (1.5 square steel tubing) level, I have narrowed my choices to 2.

Option 1 - Rip down dimensional lumber (2"x4") to support/offset the entire length of the "gap". Shim would be cut very slightly higher to account for compression once the tank is full.

Option 2 - Install these (http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=41865&cat=3,40993,41283). I am thinking that rather than use screws I would have them "tack" welded in place. I would place 1 at each corner and 1 (front and back) at the center support.

Please give me your thoughts. Which would you choose? Why?

Thanks!

[zum14]

Check out TheGrizz's stand. Looks pretty tough. Kind of the same idea as your #2 option but tougher.

[Ya Dude]

if your using steel,weld on some 3/4 nuts and use 3/4 bolts as jack adjusters.drill 7/8 holes in bottom of stand and weld the nuts there.
buda bing

[abcha0s]

My first reaction was to support option 1, but after checking out the link you provided, I think option 2 might work better. The only thing that I would suggest is using more than the 6 you suggested. I would probably go overkill and have them installed one per foot all the way around. I think that would be 16 in your case? It's not a question of strength as they appear to be very strong, but more about load distribution. Even on a concrete slab, load distribution is still important and will help ensure that the stand never twists.

[monocus]

i would watch out for #2 for the shear on your bolts-there are an other type in which the leveling screw is mounted into the bottom of your leg as a screw with the leveling leg inside the screw-pick them up at windsor plywood

[viperfish]

My 6' 180 Gal was out 1/2" on my basement floor. It's a wood stand but the method I used can be applied to wood or steel. Here is how I did it with Self Leveling Floor Grout from Home Depot:

- I used a pry bar to lift the stand to level and insert shims (the fewer shims the better)
- Now you're going to have to seal around the outside of the stand to keep the grout from running away on you. I had some nice thick slats from a venetian blind, I ran those around to set a "form" and held them in place with Tuck tape. You can use cardboard or anything else that works.
- Once the form is set the rest is a cakewalk, you just apply the primer to the floor, mix up the compound in a 5 Gal bucket and pour inside the stand. I kept my trowel handy in case the self leveling claim was BS but it worked flawlessly. It will level itself out and the surface is smooth.
- Next day you can pull the form (1 hour later if you buy the quick set stuff) and there you have it, a stand that is supported around the entire perimeter.
- I pulled my shims a day later and touched up the spots with a small tub of pre mixed grout.

The leveling feet idea works as well but there is more messing around (if you aren't a Welder) to acheive the same end result.
-

[The Grizz]

CT, my 8' 165 is on 10 adjustable legs. 3/4" grade 8 ready rod, 3/4" grade 8 nut welded onto the leg of the stand and a 4" dia. 1/4" thick pad welded to the ready rod make leveling a breeze. Start at the ends of the tank to get it leveled and then turn down the others until they are tight to the floor.

http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx291/GRIZZtheWELDER/165%20gal%20tank%20build/100_3073.jpg

[Charlie_Tuna]

Well, after additional research, I think I may just build a mold (2" - 2.75" at the low end) and fill with Sakrete fast-set mortar.

This will eliminate the "putzing" around with ripping 2x4's and it will offset the fact that I am not a welder.

Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated!

[Charlie_Tuna]

Facing a few issues:

1) Self-leveling cement is meant for pads 1" or less so I would have to use it to top regular mortar mix.

2) The floor is out 3/4" over the 6' span. The issue is that it is also not even (flat) over the span either. Having a heck of a time figuring out how I would then build a mold that will keep the cement contained.

3) The floor is "finished". My wife spent a month doing a faux tile look and the tank project cannot damage her finish.

4) I don't know what the he** I am doing. LOL!

Shimming is starting to look better all the time.

[Charlie_Tuna]

Well.....I decided to say **** on it and shim with oak hardwood.

Some may not consider it the best alternative but it is quick, cheap (I have scrap oak) and it works for me.

Now on to the build journal.