Water movement question

[molybdenumman]

I have a 50 gallon tank with fluval 404 filter system blowing in the tank. I also have a prism protein skimmer, which doesn't add much to the water movement. Do I need a powerhead to add to my water movement?

I have a few corals, live rock, anenomes and fish.

[martym]

Here is an answer to that question when I asked it
Dear Marty,

Thank you for your inquiry. The low, medium, and high lighting recommendations can be classified as 3 watts per gallon for low, 4 for medium, and 5 watts per gallon as high. However, this isn't as easy in relation to water movement. To help visualize this flow rating, imagine a 400 gallon per hour powerhead at one end of a 55 gallon tank, and a plant all the way at the other. With the plant on the other end of the aquarium, it should have a very small sway to it. About 5" away from the powerhead, it will be pushed to the side somewhat, but not to the point that it will fall all the way over. The flow when all the way at the other end of the tank would be considered low flow, medium flow in the middle, and high flow within 5" of the powerhead. This could also be broken down to total circulation in the tank, but this isn't quite as accurate. Basically, the only way to know the type of water flow your coral would be getting is by watching how it moves in the tank, and learning over time. We're happy you enjoy our site and fine it useful, and apologize that we are unable to ship to Canada. If we can be of additional assistance, please feel free to contact our Live Aquaria department at 1-800-334-3699, or via email at customerservice@liveaquaria.com and we will be happy to answer any question(s) you may have.

Sincerely,
Greg
Live Aquaria
Customer Service

We hope you find this information beneficial. We employ some of the best people in the industry and want to be your source for all of your aquatic needs.
Drs. Foster & Smith.
So by that I would say you have low water movement, and most not all like med. to strong.

[molybdenumman]

Thanks,man

Seems like a lot of words for not giving you a straight answer, though.

[Aquattro]

Thanks,man

Seems like a lot of words for not giving you a straight answer, though.
hehehe...

Mb, what type of corals are you keeping? How much rock is in the tank? What ae the dimensions of the tank? What kind of anemone? Fish?

[molybdenumman]

Here we go:

50 gallon Hagan
~40-50 lbs live rock
Torch Coral, Xenia looking coral (don't remember name)
Anenomes: 2 bubble tip , 1 long tent.
Fish: Yellow Tang, Flame Angel, Maroon, Tomato, Pink Skunk, false perc clowns, Bangaii Cardinal
2 Urchins

[Aquattro]

That's a lot of fish for that tank, so I'd say more current (especially near the surface) would be great to get more O2 in the tank. The cannister doesn't put out much at all, so I would likely add 2 MJ 1200 powerheads in opposite corners pointing at each other. Make sure the surface is fairly turbulent.

[dekay]

Yes, throw in the two Maxijet 1200s. I have a setup similar to yours minus the fluval (which I sold, cuz it's crap) and I would say the two powerheads are mandatory. I might even throw in a MJ900 tonight (blowing against the front glass) cuz the sun coral I bought yesterday seems to open better with more flow. Another thing to think about is, with such a high bioload and insufficient flow, cyano might be knocking at your door.

IMO, the fluval might be sufficient for a fish only setup, but it's useless in a reef. Canister filters build up nitrates as well if I'm not mistaken. And changing the cartridges wasn't much fun either, at least for the 403 model.

How long have you had the 4 different clowns in the same tank for? Do they actually get along?

[molybdenumman]

You're right, cyano is banging at the front door.

What type of filter system should I be using?

There is very little problem with the clowns. The tomato chases the false perc once in a while because they share the same anenome. No bloodshed though.

[dekay]

Standard answer for fighting cyano would be to shorten your photoperiod, feed once every two days, add flow and frequent water changes. But due to the somewhat incompatible fish you have in your tank (ie. the clowns), I'm not sure about the food cut back. Better leave this question to more experienced reefers.

I'd rip out the fluval though. That might be the source of your nitrate problem from the other post you had.

BTW, is the skimmer a prism or prism pro? If it's the smaller version, most ppl say it's not that efficient for anything larger than a 30 gallon.

[molybdenumman]

I'll have to check the skimmer when I get home tonight.

Thanks for your help, much needed and apprciated

DTM

[dekay]

If your skimmer is the Pro version, there should be a Deluxe kit you can upgrade to, which includes a surface skimmer and a media basket (for putting in your carbon cartridge).

Link:
http://www.redseafish.com/Product.asp?dir=&catID=93&subID=34&proID=130

http://www.jlaquatics.com/cgi-bin/shopping/jalstore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=ps-rspd

What you could also do is keep the fluval and only run carbon with it. I forgot if it's the sponge or those little beige cylinder things that cause nitrates to build up, or both. A lot of ppl use Aquaclear filters w/ carbon as well, cuz it's a lot easier to switch out the carbon cartridge compared to the fluval.

[molybdenumman]

What size of Aquaclear filter would you use for a 50g tank? I used a 300 in there when it was a freshwater tank, but thought it would be enough for saltwater.

[dekay]

If you're keeping the fluval, try taking out the other two cartridge and leave the carbon inside. Check your nitrate levels in a week and see if it solves the nitrate problem you have. Don't really need the Aquaclear if you're keeping the fluval.

[AJ_77]

I would run that AquaClear as well; they rock - very handy. A 300 is more than big enough for that size tank, and can hold a variety of materials with ease of access. Mine holds a sponge (full of baby brittle stars) and a bag of carbon or Chemi-Pure.

People use the big ones too, for mini-refugiums sometimes, or to hold some algae and live rock, you name it. They have good flow, low power consumption, simple construction... and without the common problems sometimes associated with cannister filters.

:biggrin:

[molybdenumman]

In either my aquaclear or my fluval, should I be using those biobeads? Can they contribute to my nitrate problems?

If I should use them, how many?

Thanks for everyone's help by the way.

[AJ_77]

In either my aquaclear or my fluval, should I be using those biobeads?
Best to skip 'em entirely.