THE Tank Build By Aqua Digital

[Aqua-Digital]

Well I guess its been a long time coming, but I am finally at the point to start our small 24" cube tank build.

This will highlight as many GHL ProfiLux items we can cram into it, go through step by step set ups and throw in as many photos and possibly video for you.

This build will also feature fauna marin and Aquarium Illuminations as these two companies products all tie up with GHL in various ways.

So onto the equipment

Then tank

24x24x24 cube Euro brace with rear center weir box. 3 sided star fire, supplied by Miracles in Toronto Canada. I should have delivery in 14 days or less.

The stand

Custom made in birch by none other than Christian (Boboxx) Chris builds some of the most stunning bespoked cabinetry I have come across and well worth talking to him if you are looking for something custom. The stand will be Espresso in colour to match our home decor, production photos to follow soon.

The Sump

Supplied, again by Christian (man of many talents!) This will be acrylic.

Lighting

2 x Aqua illuminations LED's, I am really looking forward to getting these above the tank, the functionality when attached to a profilux controller is mind blowing. Still waiting on the cable like everyone else, but I am told its in the post wahey!! :)

Mineral dosing

No calcium reactor here, instead fauna marin Balling light using the GHL doser and 3 x Bubble magus 2.5L containers.

Skimmer

I wanted to use the Blue line skimmer from Fauna Marin here but its just too big so will be using a Bubble Magus BM150Pro, this is the one with the aqua bee pump so I am quite keen to see how this plays out, again i wanted to use a cone, but they do not do one small enough as yet.

Live Stock

Lots of Fiji premium rock, and SPS dominent, I will also have a small amount of LPS, my wife would not be happy if it did not have a hammer head. Fish wise, not a clue as yet, its only 60 gallon so will not be crowded.

I am not sre where the corals are coming from as yet, to be honest i have been quite dissapointed with local offerings so far, being from the UK I am used to full coloured maricultured colonies for about $100, and I cant find anything to match this here in Canada. Same goes for the rock, hard to find good supply, but I am banking on Pat at Ottawa Inverts to come up with something to meet my European high expectations :lol:

More to follow

[TheKid]

cOol

[Aqua-Digital]

So onto the set up and some photos (the important part)

So my wife loses one of her side tables in favour of the tank, I am sure I can find room elsewhere for her belly dancing photos!

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_1837.jpg

The first thing that arrived was the 5 stage RO unit from BWi plumbing.

Here is the spec

Membrane - watts
5 stage RO/DI
Stage 1- 1 Micron Sediment NSF® certified
Stage 2- Catalytic Carbon for Hydrogen Sulfide and Chloramines Removal 12 x 40 mesh size
Stage 3-0.5 Carbon Block Cartridge for Long Life and High Chlorine Reduction 20,000Gal Capacity NSF® certified
Stage 4- 100 GPD Membrane TFC 96%-99.5% rejection rates max PSI 125
Stage 5- Nuclear Grade Mixed Bed DI Resin Cartridge for Demineralization flow 1GPM

The set up was easy. First thing was to take a tee off the homes humidifier

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_1832.jpg

This saved the need for a seperate tap, although a shut off has been put inline to the unit.

The RO unit was securely mounted near the furnace so i could utilise the basement furnace drain for waste.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_1831.jpg

The RO will be used for direct auto top off as well as filling the auto water change container, so a line had to be run to the front of the house. At this point the decision came whether to put a pipework duct in the dry wall down to the basement, but then i realised the there was a air return by the side of the tank which was perfect for running the pipework for the ATO and the AWC.

Here you can see the duct boot I will be going through

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_1833.jpg

Where it comes out

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_1836.jpg

And the feedline waiting to be extended to the first floor

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_1834.jpg

For the ATO I will most likely use two solenoid valves, one will be for redundancy. The ATO will be controlled by the ProfiLux as will the AWC.

[don.ald]

its about time! been waiting for this one
:wink:
.

[Aqua-Digital]

So here are the first pictures of the stand ;)

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3293.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3290.jpg

[Skimmerking]

MIke that is it, :biggrin: how could you where is the reat of the pictures.

[lastlight]

I can't believe canreef won't get it's first build thread with a starfire fixture?!

Interested to see the AWC.

[banditpowdercoat]

Mike, you do know that your TDS may be higher when just operating the RO/DI as top off water. You got the double solenoids for redundancy, cool, but the first Liter of my RO is allways higher in TDS. I find that making 20g at a time, then using that for ATO water, my TDS stays really low. But if I tap off the first liter, it's like >15PPM

[Skimmerking]

Mike, you do know that your TDS may be higher when just operating the RO/DI as top off water. You got the double solenoids for redundancy, cool, but the first Liter of my RO is allways higher in TDS. I find that making 20g at a time, then using that for ATO water, my TDS stays really low. But if I tap off the first liter, it's like >15PPM


ya mine is like that too Dan.

[banditpowdercoat]

ya mine is like that too Dan.

You run direct in? with no issues?? Hmmmm. It sure would make things nicer in my house. I have t rubbermades in the dining room with ATO and WC water. If I could get rid of the ATO container :D

[Skimmerking]

going to PM ya Dan so we dont bug up Mike's thread

[Aqua-Digital]

In regards to ATO, I also understand the rise in ppm on the initial run off.

It will be programmed to drain off a set amount before diverting to the tank. ProfiLux has the power to do this with programmable logic control and a few solenoids.

RO outlet goes to a T piece, there is a solenoid on both tee ends, one for waste pre tank fill run off and one for ATO. The run off solenoid will be programmed to come on for a few minutes prior to the tank flow solenoid coming on.

[Aqua-Digital]

So equipment break down.

1 x Miracle star fire Euro braced tank
1 x BWi 5 stage RO
3 x RO electronic solenoids
1 x ProfiLux 3EX
1 x wireless bridge adapter (network is upstairs, tank downstairs so need a link to the controller)
1 x PAB power bar
1 x GHL pH probe
1 x GHL Redox probe
1 x GHL Salinity probe
1 x GHL Humidity/Air temp Probe (this is for the house)
1 x Aqua Digital ozone unit (max on two hours after feeding)
1 x 4 channel GHL slave doser
1 x BM150Pro bubble Magus Skimmer
2 x Tunze 6055 streams
2 x Tunze - GHL control cables
2 x GHL optical level sensors for ATO and AWC
2 x Aquarium Illuminations LED lighting
1 x Ai-GHL control cable
3 x Bubble Magus Balling chambers
1 x Acrylic sump
1 x Aqua Bee 2000L return pump
? x Various amounts of Lockline for the return
1 x Durso stand pipe
1 x Phos/Carbon reactor

I am sure there will be more but that covers the basics.

[banditpowdercoat]

Mike, where are you getting your Reef Safe Solenoid valves from? I've been searching for a cost viable source for a long time.

[Aqua-Digital]

Auto top off dot com have done them for quite sometime these are plastic bodied, chemical resistant

[banditpowdercoat]

Auto top off dot com have done them for quite sometime these are plastic bodied, chemical resistant

Ya, seen them, they are to expensive as well, IMHO

[Aqua-Digital]

the solenoids are available readily if you want to order from china, they are about $4.00 and then add shipping, so make your own.

www.alibaba.com

[Aqua-Digital]

Personally I dont think $34 is over expensive either for something pre made plug and play. You can get rid of your storage tank if you have a profiLux for under $80!

http://www.autotopoff.com/solenoid/

When you work out the cost of a storage tank - feed pump - pipework, i doubt the cost comes to much less, also take into account the fact you do not have the space issues and also only having to run 1/4" pipe. For me this method is a no brainer :)

[banditpowdercoat]

Thx Mike, I was just looking at Alibaba, and I do not want them pre made. I have my own PLC controllers and need about 10 valves for what I want to do. ATO,W/C and membrane flush, all automatic.

[Aqua-Digital]

In this case it would be cheaper to buy a baby ProfiLux :) its all done for you.

This build by nature will highlight many things that are unique to profiLux so some things may not be adaptive to your own situation, but importantly will highlight what can be achieved. This is also why the build is in our forum and not in the open forum.

Anyway follow the thread you should get some good ideas from it (I hope)

[Aqua-Digital]

With fine precision the Aquarium cabinet starts to take shape. Just look at the craftsmanship! I cant wait to see this in the flesh. :)

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3301.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3299.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3298.jpg

[Aqua-Digital]

Little update

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4538.jpg

Now we shall see what these Ai bad boys can do!

[Aqua-Digital]

The stand is now taking shape

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3302Medium.jpg

[Skimmerking]

sweet love the wood you are using

[Aqua-Digital]

Its Birch, the stain takes nicely to it

Here is the colour

http://www.officedr.com/lacasse/gif/mahogany.jpg

[loveless]

Im interested in the humidity/temp control for your house the u are using. I was thinking of PMing you recently on the subject and now seeing this thread it says that you are going to use a temp/humidity probe.

Questions.

Through the profilux can I switch a fan to vent my tank utility room using this setup?

Also what does it look like and is it one unit? Etc

Just looking for general info

Cam

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

Yes you can switch any device on based on the settings of the humidity/air sensor.

It looks like an aluminium shafted probe, the air and Humid sensor is all in one.

[Aqua-Digital]

Ok I admit a reubbish video and will make you sick from sea sickness, and it does not show even the slightest abilities of this lamp but I just had a play with the most basic lamp set up with the profilux on my desk, and set some crude lightening effects.

As i say this is in no way does this do the unit justice but boys will be boys and i could not resist a little go

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/th_20100213055852.jpg (http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/?action=view&current=20100213055852.flv)

[wayner]

Tell us more about the AI LED fixture, is it one module?, how about the dimensions of the fixture - do you plan on keeping SPS & Clams?

More pictures of the fixture please

[wayner]

Guess I should of started from the beginning, I see its 2 modules, did you feel you needed the 2 for adequate light on that size tank?

I would of thought 1 module would of done it, so many different opinions out there on LED's -

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

I am (naturally) in close ties with Chris Clough the developer of Ai for some time now and we spoke at length about what would be required.

Each fixture is 12" long and 5-1/4" wide so although one maybe fine for one direction (being a cube) it is reasonable to assume in the other direction it would not.

Personally, I think LED is the way forward and Chris has put the development in, coupled with the sudden advancements from CREE LED arrays bringing the PAR values right up.

It is a contentious subject which i will not get drawn into, I think everyone needs to do their own personal research and decide themselves if it is right for them. I say avoid deep discussions and try and search for the published researched facts and users experiences.

[Aqua-Digital]

Custom cabinet update.

Just waiting for staining and door now :)

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3303.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3305.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3307.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3308.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3313.jpg

[don.ald]

nice woodwooking:biggrin:

[Aqua-Digital]

Well today i received the Bubble magus BM150pro skimmer.

First impressions - Absolutley mind blowing amazing quality!! Even the finest details eveything is so well machined every attention to detail has been thought of here.

OK OK yes we are the master distributors, but credit and Kudos here, they really have got this right, the quality is above and beyond what i have seen in $1,000 skimmers, all credit to them for this.

Some pics of course -

I took this one so you get an idea of size

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4615-1-1.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4616.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4617.jpg

More after the weekend :)

[Aqua-Digital]

Update on stand :)

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3339.jpg

If you want an amazing be-spoked tank cabinet talk to Boboxx (Christian)

Stand and sump ships to me Monday from Chris
Tank ships Monday from Miracles

Then the fun begins :)

[BWI]

beauty stand mikey!!!

[Aqua-Digital]

Thanks ;)

So here is the main equipment layout :lol:

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/tankequipment.jpg

[Aqua-Digital]

Completed stand minus door handle but with the brackets for the Ai. These are 18" above the tank height (which is 24") to give good working clearance.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3340.jpg

And the sump plus ProfiLux controller shelf

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3347.jpg

[Aqua-Digital]

So its build time wahoo

The tank arrived in one piece from Miracle aquariums in Toroto Canada, fantastic job, well made and all edges as they should be, the drill holes are really smooth too, not a single nick :)

All drains and returns are bonded in, and the stand pipe put together :)
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4620.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4621.jpg

Like the stand? ;)

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4623.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4624.jpg

Peak-a-boo :p

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4625.jpg

[Aqua-Digital]

Somone has been busy :dance:

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4633.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4631.jpg

If you want a sump built - Talk to Christian (Boboxx) take a look at this workmanship! Probe holders built in!

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4632.jpg

Yep its a squeeze alright!

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4634.jpg

Just add water! I have now run the RO line up through the central air ductwork and to the tank. The slow fill begins.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4636.jpg

[Skimmerking]

Mike that is looking great man, what type of lights are those anyways

[Aqua-Digital]

aquarium illuminations LED full ProfiLux controllable

[JDigital]

So how full is it now? :razz:

[Sebae again]

Beautiful set up! It almost looks too good to use.

[banditpowdercoat]

So how full is it now? :razz:


WHat about now???!!!:razz:

[Aqua-Digital]

Ha patience dear friends, there is a splash of water in the bottom as i am still fine tuning things as below

So i spent the day in and out of hardware stores, and came up with this, it is a work in progress as you can see the lamps need to come forward by about 1 1/4" but that is eaily resolved.

Chris at Ai said the lamps need to be 6-8" above the surface for a 24" tank so will adjust these up once I have water in the tank

here are the prototype pics

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4638.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4637-1.jpg

Maybe that will give some other users some ideas :)

[Aqua-Digital]

Busy weekend,

Water in - Check
sand in - Check
GHL fully set up - Check
creation of worlds largest wiring tangle - Check (hey gimme time i will clean it up :) )
Premium Fiji in Place - Check - Thanks Ottawa Inverts for the cleanest LR I have ever seen

I am awaiting a new prob bracket from Chris, then the sump will not look like a bowl of string :)

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4645.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4643.jpg

pH - 8.08
Salinity - 51.8mS and rising
Redox - 177mV (target = 300mV)
Temp - 28 degrees C

Rest not worth measuring yet, let the tank settle a bit ;)

[Chase31]

Busy weekend,

Water in - Check
sand in - Check
GHL fully set up - Check
creation of worlds largest wiring tangle - Check (hey gimme time i will clean it up :) )
Premium Fiji in Place - Check - Thanks Ottawa Inverts for the cleanest LR I have ever seen


No Salt :twised:

[Aqua-Digital]

pH - 8.08
Salinity - 51.8mS and rising
Redox - 177mV (target = 300mV)
Temp - 28 degrees C

Ya missed reading the bottom of the thread :lol:

[Chase31]

no i saw it but... yea just buggin ya

[andestang]

Looking impressive :) Like the rock work, is cemented/glued together ? What are your stocking plans in case I missed it ?

[Aqua-Digital]

Nope I never glue rock together, make a nightmare for re scaping if required, I build using "dry walling" no not the stuff that lines your house ;) Wedging each piece together and making sure it is stable, never failed me yet.

The tank will be mainly SPS and a few LPS, fish wise, only small fish, and a center piece, which i am not sure of yet.

First dose of Fauna marin Ultra Bio and Ultra Bak just gone in :)

[superduperwesman]

Love the tank with the exception of the light hanging system. I think you can do better. Gotta be a slicker way to hand those lights then those chains and the huge pieces of pipe or are those just temporary?

[superduperwesman]

Completed stand minus door handle but with the brackets for the Ai. These are 18" above the tank height (which is 24") to give good working clearance.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3340.jpg

And the sump plus ProfiLux controller shelf

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3347.jpg

Oh you're building a canopy, but a 18" one?

[Aqua-Digital]

the chains were temorary and have now gone, replaced with custom hanging wires.

No canopy, I cant stand tanks with boxes on top :twised: Personal taste ;)

[banditpowdercoat]

the chains were temorary and have now gone, replaced with custom hanging wires.

No canopy, I cant stand tanks with boxes on top :twised: Personal taste ;)

Same here, but I am considering a "Halo" or something to eliminate/reduce light spill. Tired of being blinded by 750W while watching TV LOL

[Aqua-Digital]

So here is the latest dilemma.

I thought my little aqua bee was not cutting the pace so upscaled to a Tunze silence 700GHP (ok not so silent compared to the aqua bee)

My dilemma is this

The sump is about 10 gallon, so would you

A, High flow.
Or
B slow is best?

I am leaning towards slow as if nothing else the tank seems calmer in terms of noise.

[Chase31]

i have like 350 GPH going through my 5G sump

[Aqua-Digital]

Is there a right or wrong though? Does a skimmer perform better with higher flow than lower flow?

My skimmer seems to be performing better at high flow, but could just be me LOL.

Interested to know if there is a right or wrong or just, whatever you prefer.

[Skimmerking]

Mike IMO and IME slow flow through a sump is alot better in getting the crap out faster and heating the water too.

[Aqua-Digital]

But how slow is slow?

I was pulling about 25 gals an hour through the 10 gallon sump before

[Skimmerking]

well that is pretty slow then so i would keep it at that .

[bauder1986]

Sweet, tank, tagging along:biggrin:

[Aqua-Digital]

Thanks, hope to get the lights up and first livestock in tomorrow.

So the flow rate, are you basing this slow is best on having bio filtration in the sump or just a sump with skimmer and maybe phos reactor etc?

25 gal an hour seems low. Personally I would prefer to go back to this as the whole tank is quieter at that.

[Chase31]

if your having a fuge in the sump i would slow it down, but if its reactors and a skimmer, try to match what they can handle

[Aqua-Digital]

Is just a skimmer and phos reactor.

I just preffered the quiet running of the tank at the slowe rate so getting mega confused what is best :(

[Skimmerking]

Mike the slow rate threw the sump is just allowing for the more skimmer time to clean the water and heat the water faster that is all. before a lot of reefer's believed in the ultra fast speed of water through their sump. because they had huge return pumps on there tanks for the turn over rates. Hence the better options for turn overs in the power-heads now

[Aqua-Digital]

That makes sense, for me the reason more to switch back is that the return is like Viagra, sorry i mean Niagra :redface:

So one x 4 hour old Tunze Silence 1073.040 up for grabs if anyone wants a bargain ;)

$149.00 shipped all in ;)

http://www.tunze.com/149.html?&L=1&C=GB&user_tunzeprod_pi1%5Bpredid%5D=-infoxunter051

http://www.jlaquatics.com/product/tz-wp107304/Tunze+Silence+Water+Pump+-+1073.040.html

[banditpowdercoat]

With my 45g corner w 10g sump. I built the sump with a back and forth style baffles along with the verticles, to effectively double it's length and the time for the microbubbes to escape. Return pump was a Mag 350. And I even found I had to throttle that back to keep the microbubbles out of the display.

So I vote for slow, just because of physical sump size

[Aqua-Digital]

Interesting ;)

The bubble magus even at 300GPH over spec is not producing micros but I am for sure goign to go back to a trickle of a flow and see how the tank performs as the Tunze is way over driving the skimmer if nothing else

[Aqua-Digital]

Wahoo :mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen::mrgreen:

The main build is pretty much finished ;)

As you can see below the lights are in place and fully programmed to the GHL, in fact the Profilux has pretty much full control of every aspect of the tank. This weekend I will do a review of what is controlled, how it is controlled and screen shots of programmed software pages.

The hanging kit was custom made by Chris (Boboxx) I have to thank him for the amazing job he did of this and also of course the quality stand.

The pump debate actually produced a huge oversight on my part, I guess running a business and also trying to do a tank build made me lose my head. I forgot the most important element and that was to at least have a flow rate to match the skimmers requirements and I was WAY short of that, this has lead to not enough draw from the surface of the water to stop bio film, so i now have a suitable balanced tunze coming that will draw 500L and hour at 1.5 meters, perfect for the skimmer and tank, thanks to Phil at Xenia for shipping it so fast :)

The photos below show the lights are on about 60% at this time as they are slowly dimming for the evening. As you can see they are mega bright and need to be throttled right back. If you are looking for ultimate light control then seriously get these units :) The ProfiLux cloud simulation is amazing also, I have it set to 25% and 50% dimming at random.

Here are some pics

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4649.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4651.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4655.jpg

[superduperwesman]

Looking good. Anyway you can run the cords inside the tubing?

[bauder1986]

one of the cleanest looking nano's out there

[Aqua-Digital]

Thanks ;)

Yes the wires will be rooted once i am happy with the height of the lamps, I still think they may have to go up by 3" which means raising the bars.

The back will be Black by Monday also, so no wires ;)

[superduperwesman]

NOOOO! The height of the lights looks good how it is, but I guess you gotta do what you gotta do

[Aqua-Digital]

LED by nature can create "spotting" where the two colours do not blend, to account for this you have to adjust the height. At present they are as high as I wish to go but am still seeing some blue/white seperation. I will test today what height is required to get the ultimate blend ;)

[Aqua-Digital]

Just planning the auto water change now and then in April the balling chambers ;) The AWC programmed and controlled by the profilux will be as follows

1/4 Ro line gravity drained from sump to basement about 12' below direct to drain, this will be controlled by a solenoid. The ATO sensor will be switched to dual mode ATO/AWC and a second low sensor for the AWC lower limit draw off.

In the coat closet behind the tank will be a large (ish) vat, this will at present plans feed the tank with new water via a tiny power head. The tank will drain and replace 1L twice a day so approx 10% a week.

Due to only draining off 1L at a time the tank will not have to have any equipment down time making the water change process and programming very simple.

[Aqua-Digital]

Hanging wire tails now hidden ;)

[Chase31]

so you have two vats in the closet? one for new salt water and one for fresh?

[lastlight]

Looks great! That standpipe needs a painting really bad though...

[Aqua-Digital]

The standpipe will be reduced in size when my blank plates arrive for the overflow, you will then not see it.

First corals are in Courtesy of Pat at www.ottawainverts.com

Tri coloured Ricordea - reason = for a new set up this is an ideal choice for the tank

Bright orange Monti frag - reason = Very hardy and a good indicator of tanks stability

Nothing else will be added for two weeks.

Dosing -

2 drops of FM Bio per day
1ml of Ultra Bak
0.5ml of ultra Min-S

Ultra Life is being dosed also at present due to new fish introduction and the tank being new.

Paremeters

Ammonia = 0
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 0.2
P04 = 0.1
Ca = 460
MG = 1410
DKH = 7
Salinity = 1.0249

I will be switching to ProdiBio shortly as it needs to be reviewed by us.

I am not yet dosing any minerals as the draw on the tank is too low to warrant it, as soon as I see a dip in any of the 3 elements then I will set the balling up.

[Aqua-Digital]

Quick update -

New pump fitted now pulling 500L/hr and the pump is "silent" Tunze 1073.02.

Cloudy water = 75% gone :)

Params as of this morning

Salinity 1.0249
Redox 325mV
pH 8.02
Temp 28c
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0.03
PO4 0.03
Ca 470 (suspect new aragonite causing high Ca)
DKH 8
Mg 1410

All fish settled in and the two test corals thriving.

Big ProfiLux revue update to follow :)

[Aqua-Digital]

Well now the "Aqua Digital Tank Build" is nearing set up completion its now time to move onto the profiLux and show everyone what really can be done.

I thought I would do this step by step guide including software screen shots.

So lets start with
Temperature.

As you can see here all probes including the Temp probe are situated in the sump at a level that the probes will never be completely submersed.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2363.jpg

(The white tipped probe is the new generic pH probe that will be coming with all beginner packs as of April, just field testing it)

So here is a screen shot of the temperature software screen. Here you can see my nominal value is 28 degrees and the hys is set to .02 meaning the tank will only fluctuate by .02, my graphing clearly shows this as an even saw tooth over a 24 hours period. Any more switching than this in a small tank that does not hold heat well could cause thermostat bounce, something to be aware of more so with chillers.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/tempinput.jpg

So thats the input but what about turning the heater on and off at the set value?

Next step is to program the power bar to control the heater, but first set the thermostat of your heater to 1-2 degrees above your nominal value, this is so the GHL had control over the heater but still allowing for failure redundancy, no matter how good your controller is, it could be made by Nasa for all I care, make sure you have redundancy or 3rd party cut out for such devices.

Ok onto the power bar. here you can see the power bar input screen and I have chosen socket 1 to be the temperature "heating" control socket. The socket is edited to be Temperature 1 - Heater. If you want to also control a chiller just select another socket i.e socket 2 and program that to Temperature 1 - Chiller. The ProfiLux will then turn either device on or off depending on your nominal value and Hys' set.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/socket1.jpg

More about the other sockets later.

So thats the temperature set up. - Next pH

[Aqua-Digital]

OK so pH -

Well once you have set up the Temp everything starts to fall into place like a jigsaw really, setting pH up is no different you are just dealing with different values.

So here we have the pH screen

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/pHscreen-1.jpg

Just as the temperature control page, you have nominal value current value and hys'. As with the temp input there are plenty of other funky add ons to play with if you wished here, for example nocturnal mode etc, this is important only if you really do not like natures ability to lower pH at night, I personally let the tank follow a rythm.

So what can pH be used for? In my case its just monitoring, of course I can set an alarm to wake me at 2am if it drops too low, or goes to high if my Alk dosing got stuck on, or if running a kalk stirrer etc. But the main purpose in reef tanks for pH control other than just monitoring the tank is calcium reactor control.

So to set up a ca reactor Co2 solenoid (I do not have this on my tank as I cast that old pony out long ago :) )

First set up your nominal value in a ca reactor it should be around 6.2 to 6.5 depending on your media. The Hys' can be set to 0.1 in this case, we are controlling a solenoid so does not have so many issues with being switched on and off often.

Now go back to the socket function screen and decide what socket you wish the solenoid to be plugged into, lets say socket 2 for now.

Just as you did with the temp socket set up, select the socket to be edited and set as follows

pH - downward

thats it you are set, of course you can name the socket Co2 control or Freds Diner what ever you choose ;)

If you want to control a Kalk stirrer you can do the same but opposite, if the pH drops you want the kalk to be turned on so set to pH up.

Next Salinity control - Oh thats a scary one :)

[Aqua-Digital]

So salinity - This will take a while :(

First thing I need to address here is YES when you plug in your highly expensive lab grade platinum plated conductivity probe and follow the instructions to calibrate it to the letter, you will then test your refractometer and drop the whisky glass in disbelief!! WOW can the GHL be that innacurate?? Whaooo stop there :reading:

Lets look at what the old trusted refractometer is really designed for? Reading NSW? Nope, reading wee? Yep, Reading NACL? YES, but NOT natural salt water! To do this you must calibrate the refractometer using an NSW solution, the most trusted until recently was Pinpoint 53mS but then along came Fauna Marin with its highly technical "multi reference test solution" I strongly recommend anyone getting a GHL salinity probe and wish to match its reading to a refractometer to get this stuff.

Digital reading of salinity IMO will be more accurate than a refract becuase it is not subject to the influences of other refractive compounds found in NSW

We are getting a bit deep here and away from reviewing the ProfiLux but what i am trying to say is do not panic if you see the GHL reading different then the old trusted dog the refract' calibrate the refract correctly and you will not see much of a difference.

My refract - digital pen and GHL probe is calibrated to fauna solution at 53mS. This does not mean the GHL stuff is innacurate at 50Ms it is just no good for calibrating a refractometer. So if you want to match both you need an NSW solution for the refract.

OK so we have follwed the calibration instructions to the letter (mega important) so now what can we do with salinity control?

I do not personally do this but I know many GHL users do and that is control their ATO based on the salinity level of the tank.

Here is the salinity screen

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/Salinity.jpg

I am not going to touch on setting this up here to control ATO, if you wish to do this then let me know and once the review is finished I will discuss more detailed subjects.

And next is level control ATO and AWC and alarms.

[Aqua-Digital]

So good ole level control etc etc

Lets start with the basics.

ATO.

There are different ways of doing this

Direct from the RO unit (my choice)
From storage container (most popular)
From one of the above controlled by a salinity probe instead of level sensor (advance topic - later)

So which ever you choose of the first two the only thing that changes in the set up is what you plug into the assigned power bar socket, whether it be a water solenoid of water pump. In my case water solenoid.

So first thing we must do is set a float or optical level sensor up in the sump to the desired (controlled) level point.

Here is mine.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2365.jpg

Set up the assembly and loose fit to the sump so it can be adjusted, now go to the profilux front screen and go to level - diagnostic - level 1, adjust the sensor until it just turns off, you now have your level set at where you wish the water to always be maintained at.

So back to the software.

Go to the level control screen

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/level1.jpg

By now you should have plugged in your sensor to the back of the profilux and not by mistake plugged it into the temperature port instead :celeb1:

Double click on Level 1 in the settings tab at the top and up pops -

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/level2.jpg

In this box you can set all sorts of treats, the first important thing to set is the function, in this case ATO, the next most important is Max on time, this is your safety net, lets say heavens forbid you forgot to clean your ATO sensor and it stuck on, you are in Cuba and downing a lovely cool local brew while your ATO goes AWOL and floods the Granny apartment below! To avoid such minor issues here you set the maximum time you wish the sensor to be in an active state. So in my case 5 minutes is, well probably to long and needs to adjust that down to 30 seconds, thats a good target. So now you have fail safe ATO :)

next in the same screen you need to set up the reaction time, no this is not the time you have to get back from Cuba to sort out the mess in the apartment below, but the amount of time the sensor is active before the controlled socket is switched, this is ideal for tanks with turbulance or other things that can make the sensor switch on and off periodically. I have mine set to 5 secs, which is just right.

So thats the ATO sensor set up, what about the socket?

You have now chosen a socket to control your pump or solenoid. Just as before go to socket function and click edit the chosen socket. Set this to water 1.

Waheyy, you now have fail safe fully set up ATO

[Aqua-Digital]

So for the topic tonight - water alarms.

You can have all manner of alarms -

Maximum on time alarm (this is described in ATO set up)
Low water level alarm
High water level alarm
Leakage alarm

Depending on the amount of sensors you have depends on how many alarm states you can create. I have main tank ovefill alarm and max on time ATO alarm and here i will show you how to create an alarm and shut off for the main pump if the drain got blocked.

As you can see from the photo I have attached a float level sensor to the Euro brace inside the weir box, the sensor will then be triggered if the water level rises too high, in doing so setting off an alarm and turning off the main pump. You can set the same thing up for low water in your sump by putting the sensor there instead, mounted differently of course.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2364.jpg?t=1269473755

So how to program?

First connect the sensor to a level sensor port.

Now go to level control in the software and select the sensor for editing. Set the sensor to leakage detection and set your max on times etc as you choose.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/Leakage.jpg

Now go to socket function outlet and choose what socket you want the return pump plugged into then edit this socket as follows

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/Leakage2.jpg

Here you will see I am using sensor 3 so have programmed as water 3.

If using an optical sensor, when setting up the socket fnction remember to "invert" the socket function.

Thats all for tonight folks ;)

[Aqua-Digital]

So long time coming an update :)

Tank now been running a month, live for 3 weeks.

parameters

NO2 =0
NO3 = .01 to.02 depending on how tired my eyes are
PO4 = 0
Ca = 440
DKH = 8
Mg = 1390
Salinity 34PPT
temp = 28
Redox mV = 423mV
pH = 8.01

The tank is doing really well i have not had to scrape the glass once for algea, bio bloom white film yes, but not algea. i am now running ProdiBio for 5 days and the corals are loving it. I would say there is no difference as yet I can report from FM to prodi both are equally good at nutrient reduction, but as i do not have room for a reactor I am sticking with prodi. I also hate daily dosing so prodi wins hands down on that score alone :)

There is also room to think about mixing and matching products but my tank is way to young to start any fancy reviews like that.

Ok back to the tank.

I got some awesome corals from ottawa inverts, I am lucky to share the same town as pat so have easy access to his huge coral racks. Pat you need more space!!!

Pictures - As you will see below much to many peoples delight the Ai lamp hangers are finished.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4804.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4805.jpg

I hope this now meets with everyones approval ;)

Here are some tank shots, I apologise now for the quality I am no good at photography at all, but i think you get a good idea how things are coming along.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4796.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4798.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4799.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4801.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4800.jpg

I will continue with the profiLux tutorial/review later this week.

[freezetyle]

Did you put your dosing pump on the same shelf as the profilux? or somewhere more accessible to the sump? From the pics it looked like your shelf went straight to the door.

[Aqua-Digital]

The doser wil go next to the profiLux and holes will be drilled through to accomodate the 1/4 pipes.

I will take pics once installed ;)

[freezetyle]

The doser wil go next to the profiLux and holes will be drilled through to accomodate the 1/4 pipes.

I will take pics once installed ;)

That should look really clean! love the build so far

[Aqua-Digital]

Thanks ;)

Just added a bottle of live pods to the system, that should liven things up a bit ;)

[andestang]

Looking awesume so far. The lights look better. What do you think of the Tunze 1073.020 pump so far ? I was thinking of using one for 2 media canisters that I want to hook up, one for carbon & the other for NP Biopellets. Also nice that your doing the profilux set-up in detail. Will you be doing lights, power heads & storm settings etc ?

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

The Pump is silent and I really mean silent, low wattage also.

Yep will be reviewing everything, its just time really. I have to make sure I cover all angles and finding the time is not always easy, but I will add another chapter ove the weekend ;)

[brizzo]

With fine precision the Aquarium cabinet starts to take shape. Just look at the craftsmanship! I cant wait to see this in the flesh. :)

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/DSC_3298.jpg

Aqua-Digital, bravo on the new tank setup! Very clean, stylish, and high tech! Love it!

Nice to see some quality woodworking, and quality tools! (General Tablesaw and a Cadex 23g pin nailer) :mrgreen:

[Aqua-Digital]

Thanks. I think the cabinet quality speaks for itself ;)

Chris is none heck of a craftsman :)

[andestang]

So hows the system doing ? Did I read somewhere you're having some cloading issues ? Hope all is well.

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

Tank doing really well, Yep got the good old bio bloom due to running low nutrient from the start, this is very common. The downside it takes weeks to clear but the upside is you start off with no negative bacterial issues.

When i say cloudy i am not talking like someone has poured a bowl of cream in the tank, just like a few drops of skimmed milk is in there ;) wife does not notice it, but I do, and yes it bugs the hell out of me being a purist, but patience and it will come round.

I picked up a huge center piece powder blue Aco from Ottawa Inverts and also a good sized orange Ecno frag yesterday, pics to follow

[Aqua-Digital]

Little update for you

All params are at ultra low nutrient, in hindsight this is not always a wonderful thing as you will see I have a suspected Bio Bloom as mentioned in the post above, the upside is the corals are thriving, and my center piece powder blue acro colony is settling in well.

I say bio bloom, it has not been proved, but other than calcium precipitation there is little else the slight cloudy look could be, so its time to sit back enjoy and give it 14 days and then see.

Interestingly my redox is a whopping 474mV !! A sign of the low nutrients. One thing i can prove here is that ProdiBio is amazing at single shot nutrient reduction, if you have nutrient issues you really must try this out, it works!!

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4862.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2371.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2370.jpg

The profiLux of course is rock solid, it actually has become a huge value having the full set up so I can do much better live support and test things out myself before providing support.

More later this week.

Dont forget to check out the group buy in the GHL forum under aqua digital ;)

[Aqua-Digital]

Little update, not all corals i got this weekend can be seen they are tough cookies to take pics of :(

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2372.jpg

The clip is holding Fauna marin wakame, boy does this stuff expand in the water, so far the tang has ignored it as have all other fish :( I will remove it tonight and try a tiny piece tomorrow.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2386.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2383.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2382.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2377.jpg

[Jason McK]

Looks Great. So neat and tidy. It's inspiring some changes to my system

J

[Aqua-Digital]

Well they are here wahoo fan fare round of applause, go sell the cat to buy them :mrgreen:

The Bubble Magus balling canisters are here so i can now start the GHL doser and balling light review and set up guide so many have asked me for that have GHl dosers.

First some pics

So here is the new eye candy

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4888.jpg

And this is what makes up the balling kit.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4886.jpg

So in the picture we have

3 x Bubble Magus 2.5L canisters (also available in 5.0L) ideal for balling mixtures

3 x Fauna marin balling salts, no I am not using cheap salts that I have no clue what has been added to them or not, FM salts are designed for the tank ;)

3 x FM trace B elements, for that all important colouration of the corals

1 x Bubble magus tubing holder, I was amazed at the attention to detail and quality iin such a simple item :D

1 x GHL doser :bounce3:

If anyone is interested in balling or especially the containers and tube holders or anything for that matter I talk about here, all Aqua Digital dealers carry it all so drop them or me a line for more info. We can supply any dealer you wish ;)

For reading up on this concept here is the manual

http://shop.faunamarin.de/media/content/Balling%2022.06JK-comm_ENG.doc

So the next step is set up.

Tomorrow I will insert the GHL doser into the cabinet and drill the 8 holes required to run the 1/4 hoses through the shelf, I say 8 as one pump will be used for AWC at 1L a day when i finally get that set up.

More to follow tomorrow ;)

[andestang]

Yup, thats some nice candy. You should always buy extra so you can share you know ;)

[Aqua-Digital]

I did - 150 of each size :mrgreen:

2.5L are $59.00
5.0L are $74.00

Tube holders are $29.00

[freezetyle]

I've been thinking about doing the balling method for a bit now, but there seems to be very little journals with progress posted using the full kit. looking forward to what your doing here.

I love how clean those bubble magus containers are too. Makes everything look less like a science project!

[brizzo]

I've been thinking about doing the balling method for a bit now, but there seems to be very little journals with progress posted using the full kit. looking forward to what your doing here.

I love how clean those bubble magus containers are too. Makes everything look less like a science project!

I agree. Been a thought on my mind alot lately; balling method vs calcium reactor. Not looking to start that debate, but it would be nice to see more tanks detailing their results with balling recipes

[andestang]

Forgot to ask, I see you have the new PH probe in your array of probes. How's it working out ? Is it available in stores yet ? I ordered one from Progressive Reef but havent heard anything back yet.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2363.jpg

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

In regards to the balling review, of course this will take some time for anyone to see results and of course it all comes down to "are we seeing results that we would have anyway" So I would suggest look more at the parameter stability, the ease of control over the 3 elements, something you will neve get with 2 part or a ca reactor an then build your own assesment from there.

I also would say there is no point following the review if you then go off and buy some bargain bucket salt and hope to see the same results. Simply you wont, so if you are interested in doing balling then ya have to buy into the concept 100%. I have talked to enough people that switched to FM salts and in a month they got stability back and algal issues resolved.

This is "my" first tank run with balling so I am going to be interested also ;)

THE PROBE

Amazing product - rapid response, comes with documentation showing its stats and has not needed calibrating in 6 weeks. The great thing is the price is no different.

Talk to PR again about your interest in one, we have a few left from the initial shipment.

Does it match a GHL Lab probe? Based on warranty (GHL 6 months) this probe 3 months and that I have GHL probes that are nearly 4 years old and still going great guns, I would say the GHL still holds its own with time against cost, basically paying for itself due to longevity.

I of course am going to be really interested to see how this new probe is performing in 12 months.

[Aqua-Digital]

The equipment set up.

As you can see below the whole system is set up minus adding the actual elements which I will do tomorrow.

GHL 4 stage doser connected to the profilux and plumbed in

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2392.jpg

All Pipe work going to the tube holder and coming from the balling containers, the containers come with screw tight fastners for the tube so no risk of one flying off.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2390.jpg

Close up of the tube holder, I have been crafty and used spare peri tubing to run through the bubble Magus holder so the pipes are nice and tidy going into the sump. I have also used the more flexible air line as the Calcium line especially can choke up like a vein and is easier to unblock with this pipe.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2391.jpg

And 1 x stand back and admire the goodies shot ;)

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2389.jpg

Tomorrow I will discuss GHL programming with screen shots and also how to work out initial dose rates. I have cheated and already done this by 5 days of manual pre dosing and measuring of the element depletion per day, so i know already what my system draws, but I will focus on this important step more tomorrow

[don.ald]

looks good, clean and tidy!
how much room do you have to remove the skimmer cup?

[Aqua-Digital]

room to remove the skimmer cup = Enough and only just about enough, but its all that is needed

[Aqua-Digital]

Dosing/balling set up continued -

Ok here we go the rest of the guide ;)

So before we can even start talking about setting up dose rates and anything else we need to program the doser.

For slave dosers with the profiLux

This is where the profiLux shines above all other controllers, as you know GHL make a slave doser that works in unison with the controller, this gives the unique feature that you can dose in controlled ML as well as timed, this is quite unique to ProfiLux and why all in one solutions really are far better.

I am assuming everyone knows how to program the initial state of the doser? Ok here is a basic overview

Plug doser with power applied into S1S4 directly (remove digital power bar)

Go to socket function outlet

Click on program digital power bar/ Doser

Set numbering from the last number of your power bar, for example if you have one power bar set as #7, the software will do the rest, follow onscreen prompts and exit.

Plug digital power bar back into S1S4 and doser data cable into the second western port on the power bar.

Stand Alone dosers

You have it more simple ;) Just decide if you want timed or manual mode, then just sit back and wait for me to write up the balling dosing guide part. The slavers ;) read on -

Now the fun stuff.

I have set my doser to work from S7 to S10 being a 4 pump doser, I am using pumps as follows

S7 = DKH set up on timer 2
S8 = Mg set up on timer 3
S9 = Ca set up on timer 4

So once you have programmed the initial state of your doser stay in socket function outlet and decide what timers you wish to use (once not already utilsed obviously). Then edit the sockets accordingly i.e socket 7 = timer 2

as shown here

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/Picture1-1.jpg?t=1271541919

Repeat the above for all dosers assigning different timers per dosing pump

Once done go to one of the assigned timers and decide how you wish the doser to operate.

My choice has been manual dosing, the reason for this is I like to have control as to when the dosing events take place (Sa doser users select manual dosing for this also). In the screen shot below you will see for Timer 2 which is pump 1 DKH I have selected manual mode and programmed 6 seperate timed events of 10ml over a 24 hour period, this gives me 60ml over 24 hours.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/Picture2.jpg?t=1271542032

If you look closely the dosing rate I have edited to 50ml/min, the reason for this is to calibrate the doser to actually dose 10ml per timed cycle. The doser factory settings is 60ml/min so why change? Well its all down to what your dosing, what pipe you use etc etc, so the rate will change.

How to work out 10ml in one dosing cycle?

get yourself a 10ml syringe marked at 10ml and remove the plunger and block the small exit hole.

Set the doser up for one event a couple of minutes ahead of your current time.

place the tube in the upside down syringe and wait for the timed dosing event to start.

Remove the tube and note how much was dosed in this event.

Mine dosed 8ml instead on 10ml so i decreased the flow rate to 50ml/min then repeated above, it now doses 10ml in every event.

I repeated this for each pump.

This completes the equipment set up stage, next step balling salt mixing and setting up initial dosing -

[kat]

That looks like a Christian overflow too!

[Aqua-Digital]

Are we talking religion or the guy :wink:

The overflow and the tank is all the work of Miracles aquariums in Toronto

[shrimpchips]

Actually when you adjust the dosing it's much better to run the calibration - it's actually quite simple.

Set up your dosing pump system and all the tubing as it will be when it's running. The run the ml/min calibration. The trick to get it fairly accurate easily is to use a kitchen scale that is accurate to +/- a few grams. This is what I did:

1. Set up whole dosing system including the full length of tubing you're going to use - this is important as the flow rate can vary depending on the length of tubing you're using, and the height of the doser from the containers can also affect the rate at which they pump.
2. Put a container that will hold about 100 ml (empty) on the scale, and tare/zero it.
3. Put the suction side of the pump being calibrated into RO/DI water, and run it untill water comes out the outlet side.
4. Run the calibration menu - pump for 1 minute into the container while the scale weighs how much water is pumped out. Since the density of water at room temperature is about 1 g/ml, the amount pumped onto the scale in grams is the amount in ml the pump pumps in one minute.

Easy, and farily accurate. If you're anal (ie, myself) run it three times and get an average value - I found single pumps to not differ run to run by more than 0.7 ml each trial and only by about =/-3 ml across 4 pumps.

[Aqua-Digital]

For the stand alone you are 100% right and great advise, for the slave it does not have a calibration option though, you have to do it manually.

Great input and advise thanks ;)

[Aqua-Digital]

I would like to now conclude for everyone the balling set up guide, and I think this is the most important part for everyone.

" have all the equipment now what?'

Ok so you have downloaded the manual and have added your salts and trace elements, of course if using the 2.5L containers you just halve all quantities.

Note - it is imperitive if you are following the ballign method to use the Ultra trace B elements as well.

The biggest missconception here is accuracy of the amount of salt to use, the simplest way to explain this worry away is this

Question -I added too much salt OOPS!

Answer - You mix will be stronger so you will find you will require to dose less per dosing cycle.

The opposite of course goes for if you mixed too weak a mixture. So you see no big issue you just adjust your dosing to suit. of course it is advised to try and keep some level of accuracy otherwise everytime you have to make up a fresh batch you would be adjusting your dosing rate to suit.

Initial dosing

Before you dose one single drop make sure you know your levels of Ca,MG,and DKH. Next step is to dose one element and see how that measured amount effects your systems level after 2 hours.

Example - dose 50ml of Ca and then measure who much your calcium rose in two hours from dosing the 50ml amount. if it rose by 50 points you know then 50ml has xx effect on your system.

Repeat this for the DKH and Mg. Once you have reached your target values then it will take about a week for you to dial in exactly what your system draws from the elements. You will find you use 4x the amount of DKH than any othr element this is normal, and also due to the fast take up of FM sodium bicarbonate by your corals do not be surprised if you use even more than this, it is a normal and positive outcome.

Your target values should be

Ca 380-420
Mg 1200-1350
ALK 6.5-8Dkh
Salinity 33-35PPT

A thorough explanation of initial set up is covered in the guide.

Good luck with the system, and you will soon see how great the FM system is and also how amazingly easy the GHL dosers make running such a system

[Aqua-Digital]

Update

Photos to follow this weekend.

Things are going great, I finally got the ProfiLux wireless, much to do about nothing in regards to my failed attempt at using a D-Link wireless bridge, after spending about 7 hours fighting with the thing to get it connected to itself (nothing to do with profiLux, had not even got that far) I finally got it connected and working, GREAT! so my next step was to get it connected to the profiLux :) Ha no! I did not even get that far, I found the D-Link had a loop back issue that locked up my access point. Lots of phone calls to D-Link Bombay R us support service resulted in a confirmed faulty D-Link bridge :(

So long story short, booted it back to when'st it came and moved my access point to the basement and ran through the duct work a Cat5 cable directly from the ProfiLux to the router, wahey!! For free I am now ProfiLux wireless!

So how is everything? Well the profiLux as would be expected is bullet proof it is easy to forget the huge features the controller is munching on every day, I do not even consider the complexities of the control it just - well - runs really. This is what profiLux is all about, fit set up forget not worry what might fail or bug out on you, and this is what all of us pay for, rock solid worry free reliability. How many return to base warranty cases do you see here on this forum?? ERM - None! case closed :)

The doser - well again it has taken over my system, I do not have to worry about my balling dosing, I check the params once a week after a water change and thats about it really, the doser does its thing and I sit back and enjoy the tank. The only annoying thing is the ProfiLux does not clean the glass, clean out the filter sock or pour me a fine malt whisky when my glass runs out while chilling out watching the tank, I really must speak to matthias (GHL) about built in servant control!!

Other dosing, well i am still playing around, all i will say at this point is that I am using ProdiBio for nutrent reduction control, and the rest is Fauna based. I love Prodis dump in the tank and forget for two weeks concept, none of this once a day dosing, the need of some reactor.

I will be changing my carbon over to FM Ultra Carb L this weekend from ESV, I have used Carb-L before and think it is far superior in my view.

My Ai's are now set to 60% white and 80% blue this is on a ramp up and down, of course ProfiLux has full control of this and I love the cloud effect it really does add an element to the tank and also I believe take the heat off the lamp intensity in a good way.

The Bubble magus BM150Pro does what it says on the can really, pulls crud daily even in a Low nutrient enviroment, if you are looking to get a new skimmer seriously get one of these babies, German pumps and highly quality engineering at an affordable price. (contact me if you want one)

The corals are doing well, I do want to push the envelope in colour a bit more, getting very impatient! growth is good, I just want to get the colour going, my blue stag colony has amazing vibrant blue tips, I just need to get the body to lighten up, but the tank is new and this will come in time.

Will be off to Ottawa inverts for some more sticks and critters this weekend so pics most likely Sunday evening :) (oh great here goes two hours of frustration mounting the new arrivals)

[mseepman]

We need a new FTS on this baby!

[Aqua-Digital]

Well I finally got time last night to take some pictures, noting of course I am as good at photgraphy as my wife is at driving a car (and no she does not have a DL)

So lets start with eye candy shot
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2438.jpg

General tank view
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4919.jpg

Obscene Stag horn - No I have not cut of Shreks bits!
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4929.jpg

Birdsnest colouring up and in front a rather hairy Acro
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4935.jpg

This pic really does no justice to the vibrant blue tips on the Stag horn colony, and the polyp extension at night is insane, but this was before lights out
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4928.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4930.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4924.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2442.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4933.jpg

The purple edges on this Monti are really awesome under the Ai's sadly my camera lets me down again here
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4936.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4925.jpg

This used to be boring brown, but have a look at the colour coming out!
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_4927.jpg

[Aqua-Digital]

So what am I dosing then? ;) Oh ok I will tell.

every 14 days ProdiBio BioDigest and BioPtim

The bio digest is a slow release bacterial additive and the BioPtim is the food source for the bacteria. I chose this option over FM bio and Bak as i hate doing so many daily doses, furthermore the water went Gin clear after starting this dosing regime and my nitrates and Phosphates are non existant.

Prodibio without doubt is the most simplest method to achieve Low nutrients in my experince so far, dose once every two weeks and let the little ampoule contents do their job. Results = zero nutrients and Gin clear water

For coral supplementation I am following the Fauna marin balling method and it is this i account my colour to. I know there is a huge debate about high quality salts and the use of trace elements. Well my view is I had none of this colour until I started the balling with trace elements, so?????????????? ;)

I am also adding
FM ultra Min-s 1ml a day
FM Ultra Amin - 2ml a day

Carbon was ESV but now switching to FM Ultra carb-L

I will be introducing to the mix prodiBio reef booster once I have done 6 weeks on the bacterial elements I will then stop Ultra min-s and Amin

[Aqua-Digital]

Well an update is long over due so here goes. Photos at the bottom of this thread ;)

The tank is now coming onto 3 months of age, the corals are doing really well and the tank params are rock solid. this is mainly down to the dosing I am doing.

The tank maintenance a day is about 5 minutes if that. water changes just over 10% every two weeks

Dose elements
clean glass
Check all pipe work and skimmer.

The Skimmer

As those that have been following this thread know the skimmer is a Bubble Magus BM150Pro, it was important for us to test what we distribute as with all our products and this is one hell of a work horse. As you can see from the photo it gets very little in the way of maintenance (on purpose) and it still pulls gunge like I have never seen before. The skimmer is well over rated for the size of tank but still pulls goodness knows what on a daily basis!

The aqua bee pump is dead silent and is holding up to its great reputation.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2463.jpg

ProfiLux controller

Its hard really to know what to write here, the ProfiLux just sits there takes control of virtually every element of the tank and just runs. The optical sensors have not been cleaned once, the probes calibrated only once in 3 months and last time I checked were as accurate as before calibrating. The salinity probe is correctly calibrated as with the refractometer to NSW and both read within .001 point of each other.

The ProfiLux doser again is set up and forget, pumps dead silent, never drift in accuracy.

Parameters

Salinity 34.2PPT
Redox drifts from night to day from 412 down to 360
pH 8.1 during the day and 7.9 at night
Calcium 420
Mg 1350
DKH 7
NO3 0
Po4 0

Fauna marin Balling Light
The ProfiLux doser and Bubble magus canistors make this again set up and forget, I check the levels 3 days after a water change and adjust if required, and thats about it. My biggest dosing amount is DKH at 60ml a day

What am I dosing

ProdiBio BioDigest one vial every 2 weeks
ProdiBio BioPtim one vial every 2 weeks

These are the Low nutrient additves and I think my cystal clear water and rock solid low nutirents is a testiment to this stuff, no need for Zeo reactors and daily dosing etc, this is real easy stuff with proven amazing results. I really suggest anyone thinking about LNS look at this, try following my dosing regime and see how you go? BUT dose first the Prodibio before introducing the rest of my recipe, you must have zero nutrients for the other dosings to work.

Onto the rest of the dosing then

Fauna marin Ultra Min-s 1ml daily
Fauna Marin Ultra Amin 2ml daily
Fauna Marin Power trace 1,2,3,4 @ 1ml daily

Ultra Min-s for the basic amino acids and vitimins
Ultra Amin is a more advanced amino acid supplement that promotes SPS health and growth
Power traces for fine tuning colouration, each element tunes the colours different. As you can see from the photos the colours are popping and I am now fine tuning the blues to get the Blue tipped acro to burst out of its brown coat, you can see it is starting to do so from the top down.

My purple tipped plating Monti is growing like mad and the purple edges are so beautiful.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2455.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2457.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2461.jpg

[Aqua-Digital]

Canada Day update for you all and a bit of eye candy :)

Thanks at Aqua Valley in Ottawa for this gem!

Name that coral!

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2598.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2596.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2592.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_2589.jpg

[whatcaneyedo]

I love the new purple hydnophora. I've only ever seen them available in green before.

[Aqua-Digital]

Thanks, I think its a real snatch and cant wait for it to fully colour up.

I am sure there will be a few frags requested in the future too!!

[Slick Fork]

Really enjoying this thread as you've got several new technologies going on with the LED lights, prodibio, balling salts etc. Keep the pic's and updates flowing!

[Sunee]

Love the tank. Glad to see someone using the AI LED. I am planning on using it on my new aquarium and your success with it confirms my decision.

[Aqua-Digital]

Its a simply awsome system, but get the ProfiLux controller otherwise you just are not getting even 30% of what these lamps can do.

The cloud cover simulation is worth ever penny for providing such a natural lok to the tank.

More importantly is the dimming curve so you can have precise illumination control.

Another cool feature coming out soon as that the GHL will be able to control lamps independantly so if you had for example 4 lamps on a 6' tank you could have one end brighter then the other for situations where some corals require less intensity than others.

[Sunee]

Thanks for the advice. I have the stand alone doser and love it. I don't remember which Proflux are you using?

[Aqua-Digital]

I am using the ProfiLux 3EX fully tricked out, but you can also use any of the ProfiLux range for Ai control and not lose any features, so you can even use the ProfiLux Light II and have the exact same features I have.

[Sunee]

I am using the ProfiLux 3EX fully tricked out, but you can also use any of the ProfiLux range for Ai control and not lose any features, so you can even use the ProfiLux Light II and have the exact same features I have.
Thanks. I'll check it out. I may have to wait awhile due to the expense of setting up a new tank.

[Aqua-Digital]

well for a bit of fun as we are all in summer mode right now, I thought I would take the thread a bit on a side track for the month of August.

So welcome to the Aqua Digital 19,000 Gallon_______________ POOL BUILD :)

No we have not won the lottery, no I have not sold the wife (Hmmm?) actually sold my beloved boat as little miss 18 month old screams the place down every time she saw it. My instincts tells me Mum programmed her to react like this so Mum could have her childhood dream of a pool!

First picture
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5334.jpg

34x16'10 x7.5

Next photo will not be until after the 16th August when the earth movers move in.

I planned to run the pool on a ProfiLux outdoor, but due to the dual voltage the pool required I decided it was not the best option. But fear not I have Matthias's attention on developing a ProfiLux Pool controller, and I have no doubts this will come :)

For now back to the tank build thread but more on this project as it gets going.

[lastlight]

Very nice...will it be rimless?

[Aqua-Digital]

:lol:

30" concrete reinforced rim!

[lastlight]

I'd still highly recommend some cross-bracing! Give the kids something to dive under and jump off lol.

[don.ald]

when's the tank tour? we'll all be there with swim suits on.

[Aqua-Digital]

ewwww spare the image!

I am having a sign put up "NO Speedo's" :eek:

[shrimpchips]

I am having a sign put up "NO Speedo's" :eek:

Wait? That's all I have. Well...rules are rules...

[scherzo]

So I'm assuming that it is a salt pool.

You should bring a little bit of a snorkeling aspect to it and keep some LR and softies in it.

I'd suggest your lighting be "the sun".

It'll be like being in Hawaii or Fiji! A little piece of the tropics in your back yard!

[vaporize]

First picture
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5334.jpg


Awesome ... this is a saltwater pool run with prodibo right? LOL

[Slick Fork]

Hi there,

I had a question on your AI fixtures, how do you like the colour produced by them? Also, how do you find the coverage?

I'm considering a single AI fixture over my 33 gallon (36 long by 12 front to back). I would have it turned so the fixtures length was parallel to the tank (sideways from the conventional method) My concerns are dark corners on the bottom (I don't need to grow SPS on the bottom corners but I don't want them dark) and the loss of the red and green spectrum causing some corals to look terrible

Cheers

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

You would need two units, one would not do it on 36" in fact even two would be pushing it unless you raised the lamps to a good 24" off the water, but as you do not need huge Par then you may get away with this.

The colour is good, I cant say I am the best expert in the field, I can only say what I see from previous lamps (T5 and HO) and that is they more than match my expectations.

[StirCrazy]

I planned to run the pool on a ProfiLux outdoor, but due to the dual voltage the pool required I decided it was not the best option. But fear not I have Matthias's attention on developing a ProfiLux Pool controller, and I have no doubts this will come :)

For now back to the tank build thread but more on this project as it gets going.

can the proflux output a simple 5V on or off? if so you could run the 220 with a solinoid triggered with a 5V input.

Steve

[Aqua-Digital]

Yes, it can use the GHL ADIN card which stands for Analogue digital interface

Next year I think you will see a full on GHL pool controller, its a long time coming ;)

[cherrycorals]

I would give one a try. If you find it insufficient just add another unit. One unit will give you the high light and low light areas so you can support both SPS and LPS corals with success.

The new Tri color pucks will be out soon to which will be very nice!! Blue/Royal Blue and 1 white.

Hi there,

I had a question on your AI fixtures, how do you like the colour produced by them? Also, how do you find the coverage?

I'm considering a single AI fixture over my 33 gallon (36 long by 12 front to back). I would have it turned so the fixtures length was parallel to the tank (sideways from the conventional method) My concerns are dark corners on the bottom (I don't need to grow SPS on the bottom corners but I don't want them dark) and the loss of the red and green spectrum causing some corals to look terrible

Cheers

[Aqua-Digital]

A few latest pics

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5462.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5445.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5461.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5455.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5447.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5446.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5503.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5489.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5477.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5476.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5470.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5469.jpg

[Aqua-Digital]

So an update on the summer (september) project

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5516.jpg

9 foot deep! Deep enough for even my dive bombs!

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5519.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5520.jpg

Thats the easy bit done........

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5521.jpg

[JonT]

So, you sold me... Problem is I don't have big $$ to buy it all at once. So, where should I start? Balling method? Controller for the other functions of the tank?????

I know there are "package" deals that pop up, but if I am going to do this, I will do it like all other things, "all in" but over time! I know it costs me more over the long run, but I try to save up the coin to buy it all at once, and the wife will find somewhere to spend the money, LOL. So, where to start?

If you would prefer, by all means, drop me a line.

[Aqua-Digital]

I would start with the controller and build the system round that. Your best point of sale would Oakville reef gallery, Tom has kits in right now.

If you wish for us to develop a build plan for you just drop me an email and I will reply back in the next 24 hours sales@aqua-digital.com

Welcome to the amazing world of profiLux :)

[Aqua-Digital]

Pool update ;)

Framed

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5522.jpg

Base and surround in

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5524.jpg

Landscaping starts

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_5526.jpg

[PoonTang]

Wow thats a huge fish tank! What kind of skimmer will you be running?

[Aqua-Digital]

Skimmer - Highbury surface crud removing skimmer :)

Live stock will be added this weekend

1 x wife
1 x Toddler
32 x clean up crew or better known as friends and neigbours

:lol:

[PoonTang]

I wouldnt reccomend a cleanup crew of that size at this time in a new system. You will only find that your Guiness levels go down and your Ammona levels go up!

[lastlight]

Never seen the eurobracing hang over the outside of the tank before. Tagging along.

[Aqua-Digital]

:lol::mrgreen:

Completion is scheduled for tomorrow just in time for the heat wave.

I will be running standard lights for now but switching to multi colour remote LED's next spring. Highly doubt they will be cree though, I want to be relaxed not blinded :idea:

[Aqua-Digital]

well long time since I updated this. So here is some interesting stuff in the break

I am stiill using the Fauna Marin Balling method as i do believe they one of the best salts you can get. But recently when i replenished the chambers i did not add the trace elements feeling they had little effect on the system colour.

The results were gradual but still noticeable. My pink birds nest went from white tip to brown and lost a lot of colour and my green hairy milli lost a good percentage of colour.

I beleive this was due to not adding the elements, thats the only real change made, so i have put them back and in a week I have seen colouration come back.

My own personal conclusion all be it limited in time, is that if doing the FM balling to get full effect you really do need to add the Trace B's

I will continue on this path a report back and I am sure I will see full re colouration. I will also agree anyone reading the whole thread on RC has seen me change from one thing to another, probably not the best way to get stability, so this is what I have decided to stick to and why

ULNS - ProdiBio - ease of use, great success in my experience and gives good overall coral health.
Mineral supplement - Fauna Marin Balling with Trace elements. great growth, no risk of contaminated salts and Trace elements do seem to have a colouration effect.
Pottasium - as yes not started this, to be honest not had the time, and i think it is important to get the tank stable before adding anything else.

[Aqua-Digital]

Here is a 5 minute video of the tank I just uploaded, sorry for quality and the leaning look of the tank at the end, I do not profess to be a camera wizard by any stretch ;)

Direct link - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6belGt_NxU

[Aqua-Digital]

I have been asked to highlight what my dosing is of all elements.

Here is a break down

ProdiBio -

1 x Bio digest every two weeks
1 x BioPtim every week
1 x ReefBooster every week (this can be every 2 weeks but I have high sps ratios so like to keep the feeding high)
1 x Iodi+ every week
1 x Stronti+ every week

FM balling method including trace B elements.

[Aqua-Digital]

So here is another go with the video camera.

I have tried to capture as best as possible the very large polyp extension I get in using ProdiBio.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyGaiY_jK3o

[Aqua-Digital]

To Coincide with the launch of the Skimz skimmer range by us I thought it would be a good idea to throw one in my sump :mrgreen:

OK OK gone a bit over kill here, this is the SM161 rated WAY above my own system, but it fitted in the sumo so why the heck not ;)

So here it is fully assembled and ready to get its feet wet.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_6334.jpg

The instructions state a water depth of 18cm-24cm, mine is actually at 25cm and there is ample room for adjustment

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_6336.jpg

Starting to dial it in
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_6346.jpg

At this point I must add it has not had a vinegar bath so will take a few days to gunge in.

Here is where it is at right now, air flow half open and the water outlet at 50%

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_6344.jpg

Here is a link to the skimmers stats
http://skimz.sg/products/protein_skimmers/monzter_subpage/sm161.html

Available from late Jan ;)

[gucci17]

Available late jan? :sad: I need a skimmer soon!

[Aqua-Digital]

well we do have some pre release units.

As always we offer a few demos in return for a full review that both clients and dealers can use to assess the product before investment, its a policy we have always had and it works well for both dealer and client.

So drop me an email then we can see if you wish to be part of the Aqua Digital review team.

Please only email - sales@aqua-digital.com

[gucci17]

I sent you an email!

[Aqua-Digital]

As the North American distributorrs of Pacific Sun the time has come to make the switch from Ai to Pacific Sun, it was a natural progression really. The Ai's have served me well but its time to get some PWM control going and play with some XM power.

So my first forray is connecting up the Profilux to the Pacific Sun slave 160w . This runs 3 X-PG LED's at 125 degree natural LED spread, (I will have fun with the XM's when released) with no optics I am not having to play around with heights so much to avoid the spotting effect, it also gives me massive coverage from one single fixture.

For now I am leaving the Ai's firmly in place and have adopted cheekly the Ai over tank stand as a test rig for the Black Python.

Here are some intial photos. I will talk more about set up tomorrow.

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7018.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7017.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7015.jpg

[Aqua-Digital]

An update from last night Heath Robinson affair over the tank!

The Pacific Sun Black Python is not installed on the over tank hangers I used for the AI. They still need moving to the right position but excitement to get this in place took over from looks, however my wife will have that changed by the weekend!

So before I bore you with photos you really dont want to see my first impressions!

The whites are insane white, so crisp, I am seeing things I never saw before, but the biggest benefit is the amazing depth of light, this thing casts no shadows, where as before I needed two AI's I only need one Black Python and even that in all honesty is too much.

The BP has 3 LED colours all independantly controllable either from the Paciic sun software or for far greater control hooked up to the GHL Profilux as I have.

The Blues are very strong, I would even go as far as saying at 100% bordering on purple, so much so I only have the at 25% max and have about 12-14K of light whish is what I prefer, i am not a fan of artificial blue looking tanks.

The white is dialed right up to 80% but this is more due to my corals being used to the Ai, but to get even this close of white I had to run the AI at 100%

The moonlight for two little LEDs cast no dark areas and are also very powerful, you could mix these with your actinic blues for a more complex look if blue is your thing.

The overall look is far more pleasing also, the colours blend I no longer have blues and whites dnacing on the sand bed, and no more shadows, full tank coverage.

There is zero loss of brightness either at 24", but I would not expect this as we have these sitting on a 6' deep tank all be it with optics but thats more due to the sahpe of the tank than the depth.

Price point - well for the slave which will do a 36" square tank you are looking at for the slave $1,399 and the Master that cant run off the profilux but has built in Blue toth controller to work with your PC is $1,599

And for anyone who says you cant grow SPS under LED or cant get colour....

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7020.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7019.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7021-1.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7037.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7035.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7029.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7034.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7029.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7026.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7024.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7022.jpg

[DAVE]

Looks incredible!

Very nice Michael.

[Aqua-Digital]

Black Python photos

ROTATING IMAGE PLEASE WAIT FOR IMAGE TO CHANGE
http://www.progressivereef.com/prodimages/pacificsun/blk_python_lg.gif

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7043.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7045.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7044.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7046.jpg


Marketing info -
The Pacific Sun Black Python Series Master & Slave Units are our most popular line and the Models that started it all. Powered by CREE XP-G , the highest quality LED chips and available in both 3W and 5W versions(Anniversary Edition) , these modular units bring power, elegance and efficiency to the Home Aquarium.

The Black Python Master is the controlling unit which programs and sends all commands to each modular Slave unit. Using modern wireless Bluetooth Technology, the PC-based Software gives the user the ability to set Sunrise and Sunset Duration and Time, 28 day Lunar Cycles and the intensity of the moonlight, controllable intensity and color temperature of the lighting as well as 40 custom user defined points of PAR Intensity throughout the photoperiod.

The Master/Slave units are stand alone pendant (or slaved to a master), and as such, can not be controlled by an external device such as a Profilux. If you are interested in using your profilux controller to operate these lights you ONLY require the less expensive slave unit, Master units can not be controlled by GHL, only Blue tooth link to the dedicated Pacific Sun software.

Master = Blue Tooth connected control through PC based software
Slave = add on to Master and stand alone using GHL Profilux controller

Each Black Python Modular Unit runs cool with controllable hi powered fans that lift the minimal amount of heat the diodes produce up and away from the water surface. This creates the most stable temperatures without the use of Chillers. Fans are extremally quit - only 17dBa on full power!

Black Python lamps are available in three versions:

- 110W - built on a series of LEDs CREE XP-E (based on 3W chips)
- 160W - built on a series of LEDs CREE XP-G and XP-E (based on 3W chips)
- 200W - built on a series of LEDs CREE XP-G and XP-E (Series 200W Anniversary Edition and Standard)(based on 3 and 5W chips)

Tank size and Module required based on up to 30" deep -

Up to 36" = 1 x 160w module
48" = 2 x modules
60-72" = 3 x modules

30" deep above = 200w version

PAR -
http://progressivereef.com/images/pacificsun/bp_par1.jpg

http://progressivereef.com/images/pacificsun/bp_par2.jpg

[Aqua-Digital]

After the Crash

Ok so I guess most have now read about my tank crash, if not see here
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=75372

This gave me time to do some much needed aqua scaping work and to give some very cramped colonies room to grow. Things have bounced back fast, nearly got params back in check and colours are really rebounding, of course as you can see in the picture I lost most my much fought over blue colours but I am starting to see a hint of blue.

First thing I did after the crash was add a dose of ProdiBio Start Up, this brought the water back to sparkling in 48 hours and no nutrient spikes. the skimmer went crazy for 5 days and is now back to tar like gunge.

here are some well earned pictures

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7213.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7222.jpg

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i159/monitors-direct/IMG_7224.jpg

[DAVE]

Glad to see your tank is recovering.

[Aqua-Digital]

as in the other post linked above, I only lost weak or non colourful corals which was a huge relief, my green stag is recovering from over calcification (that was my fault different topic we wont dwell on here :( )

Now on hunt for extreme coloured birdsnest frag, I have Gareth at PR doing the rounds for me.

[Delphinus]

Sorry to hear of your troubles but glad to hear that things are recovering.

You mentioned Prodibio Startup, I was trying to look for more info on this, on the FAQ page they mentioned being able to add livestock within hours of adding this - I take it this is assuming established live rock is used - curious what the recommendation is for new starts starting up that have used mostly (or exclusively) dry rock (which would require more time for bacterial colonization, no?)

[Aqua-Digital]

the info is not related to live rock being used, however start up will rapidly colonies any bacterial media, this includes of course dry rock.

I used it due to my tank sitting stale for 3 days to beat any nutrient spikes before they happened, specifically ammonia. I am now back to my regular prodi dosing.

[Aqua-Digital]

here is the main PDF file on it

http://www.prodibio.fr/library/pdf/prod_pdf_enr_1.pdf

[freezetyle]

here is the main PDF file on it

http://www.prodibio.fr/library/pdf/prod_pdf_enr_1.pdf

wow those colonies have gotten pretty big since you have added them. things should bounce back really quick

so you dose start up once and then continue with the normal prodibio procedure (biodigest,biotipm, etc)?

[Aqua-Digital]

If its a new tank yes, or if adding some uncured rock to a new system also. Start Up will speed up the curing process of live rock also.