PVC return to bulkhead

[Palmer]

Hi all,

I am going to be installing two new bulkheads (1 " double threaded) on a tank I just purchased. This is my first go at setting up any plumbing and I was wondering what kind of fitting I should attach to the Bulkhead return from the sump. I wanted to set it up so I wasn't using flexible tubing at the bulkhead but also wouldn't have to cut anything if I needed to replace the bulkead etc. I am planning on running 1" PVC from the sump to the two bulkheads on the tank. Hopefully this makes sense! :lol:

Palmer

[TrailFish]

You will want to use a couple of unions and valves on each side of the return pump from the sump. When (not if) you need to service the pump you need to be able to easily disconnect. The valves are so you don't need to drain the sump or tank below the level of the bulkheads. Also, you should be sure that the sump can handle any water that may drain back from your tank in the event of a power failure (but you probably already know that). Good luck.

[mark]

Directly off my bulkheads used threaded adapters (http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvc.html#male), then rigid or Spaflex along with union valves (either true or single sided).

[Funky_Fish14]

Threaded bulkheads are the perfect place start. And using a threaded adapter (MTxSoc, male thread x socket) like mark said, to tie into the bulkhead. Right after the adapter, connect a union (not a coupler, a union you can unscrew and disconnect). The union will allow you to disconnect the main plumbing from the thread so you can unscrew the adapter from the bulkhead, and still take the bulkhead off if necessary without having to cut anything. The same thing goes for the pump, a threaded connection attached as close as you can to the pump output, followed by a union, this will allow you do disconnect the pump from all the plumbing. A valve can be installed anywhere you want in the line, some people prefer closer to the tank, others closer to the sump. Some(like me), though most people say its overkill, will install 2 valves, one near the tank to remove all the plumbing if necessary without draining the tank, and one near the pump to leave the water in the line and still take out the pump. I also put a union between the valves so I can take either end off if necessary and still shut off the flow.

Keep in mind the power failure situation that TrailFish mentioned.

Hope that helps,

Cheers,

Chris

[Palmer]

Great advice thanks for the help. It should be an interesting Saturday.

Palmer

[Palmer]

How is the union fixed to the threaded adaptor? Since it should be able to be pulled apart I am assuming it is not glued?

Palmer

[mark]

How is the union fixed to the threaded adaptor? Since it should be able to be pulled apart I am assuming it is not glued?

Palmer

The union (http://flexpvc.com/pictures/CoupleUnion.png) could be close to the TA (threaded adapter) just with a short nipple (made from pipe) or 20 feet away from the bulkhead in the basement.

The TA threads into the bulkhead (use teflon tape or dope), the nipple is glued into the TA and union (unless using a threaded union where you then would have another TA).

If using true union valves make sure they're mounted the right way (see here (http://canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=27840)).

[Palmer]

Thanks Mark I am a complete newb when it comes to this stuff. I didn't realize a union can be taken apart to then allow you to detach without cutting anything.

Palmer

[Funky_Fish14]

They are awesome tools to have in plumbing... pricey, but so convenient!

[PoonTang]

I you havnt bought them already then try to get the un-threaded bulkheads. The threaded ones are prone to cracking.

[Palmer]

Thanks for everybody's advice. I did all of the plumbing on the tank yesterday and it came out pretty good! I do have one extremely slow leak where one of the bulkheads meets the threaded adaptor on the outside of the tank. It looks like it is about a drop every couple of minutes. I am not ready to fully set up the tank yet so I am thinking of letting it dry and applying a little silicone to it.

Palmer

[mark]

it's okay to use silicone tape or pipe dope, not good practice to place a bead of silicone sealant over a leak though.

Can you just go a little tighter on the connection?

[Palmer]

Oh ok didn't realize the silicone would be a problem. I have tightened it down further a couple of times but still have a small bead of water forming. If the tank was up and running I think the salt alone would stop it over a little time. So pipe dope or silicone tape around the thread that goes into the bulkhead would be okay?

Palmer

[mark]

So pipe dope or silicone tape around the thread that goes into the bulkhead would be okay?

Palmer

Yep, you normally don't put threaded connections together without.

[Palmer]

I used teflon tape on all the threaded connections. Guess I will just see if I can tighten down a little further I just dont want to break the bulkhead.

[Palmer]

I ended up back it off applying another layer of tape re-tightening and now things are just fine. Wheww! nice to have that done!

Palmer

[Funky_Fish14]

Good to hear! Thats the best way to do it.

I use A LOT of teflon tape when I do a threaded joint. If you have too much it will just smoosh itself out backwards.. and it will still seal well no problem.

Good luck with the new setup!

Cheers,

Chris