Acrylic Work

[RCFA]

Does anyone know a way to undo an acrylic joint? This is probably a long shot but I'm trying to remove an acrylic divider from an acrylic sump that I assume was joined with weld on?

Also what is the best method to buff out acrylic to make it really clear again?

Thanks for any advice.

[fkshiu]

The best way to undo an acrylic joint is with a saw.

[StirCrazy]

when you weld acrylic to acrylic you do just that, weld it. so the joint becomes a structural part of the plastic and if it is done right it is just as strong as the rest of the plastic, soooo.. you are left with cutting the piece out and make sure you use a proper type of blade or it will crack and possibly crack the other piece also (ie. the tank wall)

you have to find out also if the devider is acting as a brace for the sump walls, if it is you don't want to remove it.

what I recomend is to get a dremmel with a little mini two fluted router bit (I have seen them at home depot with carbon cutting edges) then use it to rout the devider out. you won't be able to get right up against the outside for a flush finnish, but if you are real carfull and get close you could use a little file or scraper, and sand paper and take the stub down. either way a long a tedious job.

depending on what you end goal is it might be faster just to get it as close as you can and leave it.

Steve

[Marlin65]

You can buff it by stepping your sand paper but your end sandpaper will have to be 1200 grid. (Lee Valley) then polish after that.

[RCFA]

Hmm I may just have to give it a try. I need to fit a skimmer and the divider is in the way. I'll try to dremel route and see how it goes.
Thanks


you have to find out also if the devider is acting as a brace for the sump walls, if it is you don't want to remove it.

what I recomend is to get a dremmel with a little mini two fluted router bit (I have seen them at home depot with carbon cutting edges) then use it to rout the devider out. you won't be able to get right up against the outside for a flush finnish, but if you are real carfull and get close you could use a little file or scraper, and sand paper and take the stub down. either way a long a tedious job.

depending on what you end goal is it might be faster just to get it as close as you can and leave it.

Steve

[sphelps]

Depending on how the baffle was welded in place it may be possible to break the seam. Apply a strong bending moment to the joint and while the force is still applied heat the the seam with a torch or heat gun. Try and add the heat slowly so it doesn't burn the plastic. I've done this before and it has worked but does depend on how the sump was built. When I built sumps I applied pressure to the outside seals after welding but not the inside seals (baffles) so this method would work for inside seams but not likely as well for outside seams.

[RCFA]

Interesting...Maybe I'll try that first.


Depending on how the baffle was welded in place it may be possible to break the seam. Apply a strong bending moment to the joint and while the force is still applied heat the the seam with a torch or heat gun. Try and add the heat slowly so it doesn't burn the plastic. I've done this before and it has worked but does depend on how the sump was built. When I built sumps I applied pressure to the outside seals after welding but not the inside seals (baffles) so this method would work for inside seams but not likely as well for outside seams.