Mini Cycle

[fragNplug]

I have upgraded my tank to 180 gallons, used all my old sand and old rock from difrent systems and moved all my livestock.
I expected a mini cycle but this seems pretty big to me.
tank has been up for one week, i did one 20% water change to get ammonia low again, as well as now im using prime.
ammonia is now .50
(false reading im sure as i used prime to change the chemical makeup of this ammonia. )
nitrites are 0
and nitrates are less then 5ppm
im curious as all my fish are here for the cycle should i keep doing water changes or keep using prime what is safest for my fishys.

[naesco]

Here is the signs of ammonia poisoning and what you should be doing.
Buy new ammonia reagent if you question your test kit and monitor OFTEN.
I would prepare a QT now in the event that the steps you take are not successful. If any of the signs show up remove the fish to the QT as you will lose them one by one. (lower the PH slowly. Follow the directions on a chemical product called PH Down.

Good Luck



"""""Ammonia poisoning is one of the biggest killers of aquarium fish. It occurs most often when a tank is newly set up. However, it can also occur in an established tank when too many new fish have been added at one time, when the filter fails due to power or mechanical failure, or if bacterial colonies die off due to the use of medications or sudden change in water conditions.
# Symptoms: Fish gasp for breath at the water surface
# Purple or red gills
# Fish is lethargic
# Loss of appetite
# Fish lays at the bottom of the tank
# Red streaking on the fins or body
Ammonia poisoning can happen suddenly, or over a period of days. Initially the fish may be seen gasping at the surface for air. The gills will begin to turn red or lilac in color, and may appear to be bleeding. The fish will being to lose its appetite and become increasingly lethargic. In some cases fish may be observed laying at the bottom of the tank with clamped fins.
As the damage from the ammonia poisoning continues, the tissues will be damaged as evidenced by red streaks or bloody patches that appear on the body and fins. Internal damage is occurring to the brain, organs, and central nervous system. The fish begins to hemorrhage internally and externally, and eventually dies.
# Treatment: Lower pH below 7.0
# 25 - 50% water change
# Use chemical to neutralize ammonia
# Discontinue or reduce feeding

If the ammonia level rises above 1 ppm as measured by a standard test kit, begin treatment immediately. Lowering the pH of the water will provide immediate relief, as will a 50% water change (be sure to use water that is the same temperature as the aquarium). Several water changes within a short period of time may be required to drop the ammonia to below 1 ppm.
If the fish are in severe distress, the use of a chemical to neutralize the ammonia is recommended. Feedings should be restricted so that additional waste is reduced. In cases of very high ammonia levels, feedings should be discontinued for several days. No new fish should be added until the tank until the ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen to zero.
Because ammonia toxicity is linked to the pH, testing of both ammonia and pH levels are critical. Ammonia becomes increasingly toxic as the pH rises above 7.0. Because there are so many variables, there is no magic number to watch for. However, there are general guidelines to follow.
At a level of level of 1 ppm or 1 mg/l, fish are under stress, even if they don't appear in acute distress. Levels even lower than that can be fatal if the fish are exposed continuously for several days. For that reason it is critical to continue daily testing and treatment until the ammonia drops to zero. When ammonia is elevated for a long period, it is not unusual to lose fish even after the ammonia levels start to drop.

[fragNplug]

thanks very helpfull, will keep an eye on it every day.

[Myka]

You are probably getting a bigger cycle than you expected because you used your old sand. In the future when doing a transfer like that it's best to use brand new sand (just use dry stuff, don't bother with the bogus "live" sand), and skim a few cupfuls of your old sand off the surface before you disturb it. Add that old surface sand to the surface of your new sand.