Auto Water Change ideas???

[Doo]

Any body have an auto water change setup - I would love to see pics and hear iedas...

What equipment are you using, valves, timers etc...

I am open to any suggestions and thoughts on this :)

Thanks

[TVR]

I'll followup with this.
Mine is still a messy draw on paper :lol:
I modify a model I found on the internet. It was for fresh water, so need to draw some more mess to make it SW compatible :lol:

[Pescador]

I've been wanting to do a continuous water change for a while with a 2 head peristaltic pump.
Old water out, new water in, 24/7.

[TVR]

This must be very interesting.
Mine is still look like a big messy draw in my book :lol:
Nothing came to nowhere just yet :redface:

[Doo]

I am interested to see what we come up with...

I will do a drawing of what I have in mind and you guys tell me what you think - stay tuned :)

[Myka]

I have thought about this idea for a couple years, but found it too complicated with too many things that could go wrong. I am satisfied with just making waterchanges as simple as possible by using hoses and pumps instead of packing buckets and stuff like that around.

[Doo]

here is my idea:

I want to use a lawn sprinkler type valve/ switch off a "T" on the drain going to the sump. once the valve is open, the water will go down a floor drain (tank is in the basement). this will run on a timer for once or even twice a week (small amounts at a time). Once the time is up - the valve shuts. The pump in the sump will continue running and this will cause the sump to fall low in water level. The low water level in the sump will then trigger an auto top off switch that will fill back to the right level.

This is big picture - detail needs to be ironed out...

what do you guys think?

[sphelps]

The trick is automatically adding the salt, you could keep a storage tank with premixed water but I still don't see that as automatic. I've set one up that was fairly simple but not 100% automatic. Basically just pump water out into a drain on a schedule either weekly or daily (pump and timer) and simply let the auto top off fill the tank back up. The top off was connected to constant supply with a direct RO hook up and larger pressured storage tank. All you had to do was add a consistent amount of salt ever week (straight into a 'special' sump chamber) and just to be safe monitor salinity monthly. Very simple system, no need for a large storage tank and probably the easiest to actually operate. I did experiment with some hoppers to automatically add the salt but in the end it's pretty easy to add a few cups of salt ever week.

[scuglass]

search lazy reefer I think... there is a detailed guide of his water change system

[Myka]

I Googled "lazy reefer" and didn't come up with anything...

[lobsterboy]

did anyone check out superduper wesman;s nano, i think there is a video of a instant water change there somewhere, or maybe it was just draining the water, none the less is was really cool not to meantion the stand and the whole thing is pretty awseome

[scuglass]

ill look for it... its super old.

[es355lucille]

I am going to hangout on this thread. T

his is something I have been thinking about. I just want to have it automated enough that I just have to flip a switch to remove water and one to pump in the new sw.

To do this fully automated would take some good reliable hardware.

[Myka]

One of the drawbacks I see to an auto waterchanger is that you don't get to siphon out detritus. I find this implemental in the health of my reef, but I do have lower flow because of my LPS so maybe you guys with high flow SPS tanks don't get detritus settling anywhere?

[msobon]

Well it's a interesting question but really it depends on how complicated and how automated do you want to go and what type of a water change process you want to do.

First of ideally water changes IMO should be done with introducing the new water slowly instead of just draining "X" amount and pouring in "X" amount of water mixed with exact to similar salinity/temp.

Ever do a water change without any corals reacting to it? Usually you wont get it perfect dead on and you will get a reaction to diff water paremeters, basically a very quick change paramaters and a natural way of adjusting to that change by the corals, which can be stressfull to the inhabitants.

Ideally I would say you would have another tank by your sump which would be attached to your sump via valves usually a "IN" and an "OUT" to the sump plus a "Drain", the drain would be used to empty out the waste water.
You would add a float switchthat would take care of the fresh water feed, solenoid or mechanical (either one does the job). Solenoid would be hooked up to the RO/DI filter(assuming that what you use).
This would fill the tank to a desired level you would probably want to have it match the level in the sump.

So at the moment you have a tank that auto fills, is sepearated by valves to the sump, what else do you need?
Since the tank is a seperate unit, a heater and a water motion device would be needed to mix the salt.
Once those two things are in place you would be able to add the salt, let it mix and heat up to a preset temp and salinity would still have to be measured manually.

Once this is ready, you would open the "IN" and "OUT" valves that would be attched to your sump and let the water pasively exchange, this could be done over a few days so basically that water would become part of the water volume in the tank. Once this has taken place you would close the valves for "IN" and "OUT" and Open the "Drain" valve whch would be hooked up to your drain letting the water empty. You would close th valve and let the RO/DI will the tank with water again.

Now this change system would still require you to turn some valves and throw some salt in, but in a more controlled and less messy way! No hoses, no buckets, unfortuanatly not fully automated! :P

I think the biggest pain for a water change is the carrying water/ pulling hoses etc.

Turning a few valves and mixing salt isn't that bad.

[michika]

I have plans to encorporate one into my new system, so I'm tagging along.

Tentatively we've planned to do ours with solonoids, and controlled either by our RKE or by a separate system.

[banditpowdercoat]

I am trying to invent a good way to automatically keep the Sg in the tank at a stable level. The Auto change would be easy if there was a reliable way to add salt to the tank. Like stated, just drain some, add RO water and then the proper amount of salt.

Presently, Electronic Sg meters are to expensive for my plans.

[sphelps]

If you're going to do something like this keep it simple. It's not hard to set something up where all you have to do is add a consistent amount of salt on a weekly bases and monitor salinity on a monthly bases. If you can't do that then I'm not sure what to say, after all you still gotta clean the glass right?

If you get into complicated systems with multiple pumps, solenoid valves, float switches, and timers or even hoppers you're not only introducing multiple sources of error but multiple sources of failure which is something you want to avoid.

[banditpowdercoat]

If you're going to do something like this keep it simple. It's not hard to set something up where all you have to do is add a consistent amount of salt on a weekly bases and monitor salinity on a monthly bases. If you can't do that then I'm not sure what to say, after all you still gotta clean the glass right?

If you get into complicated systems with multiple pumps, solenoid valves, float switches, and timers or even hoppers you're not only introducing multiple sources of error but multiple sources of failure which is something you want to avoid.

I need to set my tank up for 3 week sustainability. Sometimes cant trust the hired caretakers

[sphelps]

I need to set my tank up for 3 week sustainability. Sometimes cant trust the hired caretakers
So do a water change every three weeks. I have a system setup on my tank similar to what I described earlier but I have to manually activate the pump, this way I can do it whenever I'm available. Takes about 2 minutes to change 10 gallons and I don't have to have premixed water ready prior to this. Best of all the hole system is just a pump on a switch and bucket of salt with a cup :mrgreen:

[sphelps]

If you want to keep a premixed salt storage tank then there is another fairly simple system you can employ.


You essentially have two top off systems, one for fresh water and one for salt water.
The fresh water top off works with a slow fill principal (slow pump or restricted solenoid valve).
Saltwater top off works with a fast fill principal (large pump from storage container).
Float switch for fresh water top off is located at standard height to maintain standard water level in sump. Should be controlled so water level remains fairly constant 24/7.
Float switch for saltwater top off is located slightly below the float for fresh water.
A pump on a timer pumps water out of the sump to a drain on a certain schedule to remove the desired amount of water.


Now the idea is the fresh water top off maintains the water level in the sump so the saltwater float isn't triggered from evaporation. However when the drain pump is activated the fresh water top off will be too slow to keep up so the salt flow will trigger and since it's fast fill, will top the tank back up before much fresh water is added. You'll also want to maintain the salinity of the storage tank slightly higher than the desired aquarium sanity as some extra fresh water will obviously be added every time saltwater is added.

[BC564]

Im using a PLC , solenoids, and a pressure transmitter in inches of water column (4-20 ma)....premixed salt water tank, RO tank for top off, 3 RTD inputs for temperatures (of all 3 tanks), pH probe input, etc..... I always use the same salt and know the amount of salt needed to make 25 litres of salt water, but I'm pretty sure I can be there for the actually test of the SG.

[wolf_bluejay]

What I have at the moment is a 30 gal tank for mixing saltwater, and a feed off my pump that runs to my basement drain. The mixing tank has a power head that has a "closed loop" and a feed to the sump. To do a water change, I just open the valve to the drain and pump out 20-30 gal, close that valve, open the one from the mixing tank and pump in until I'm back up to the proper level.

What I was thinking about doing is this: drill the sump just a smidge about the normal water level (and ATO float switch level) and pump in a bulkhead straight to a drain. Then putting the pump from the mixing tank on a timer to run for a few minutes each day. The water level would rise in the sump and almost the same amount of water I pump in would overflow into the drain. This would allow for my existing ATO to work as normal and the only thing I would have to do it manually refill,and salt and mix the mixing tank. The water changes would happen a few gallons at a time each day.

This risk is that during a power outage or some other event that changes the sump level, the excess water would flow out the drain an be replaced by fresh water when the power returns. But I've only had 1 power outage in 2 years and the fresh water is topped up real slow. So, I'd only loose a few gallons of water on about 250 gal total system volume.

[BC564]

That would work....I would just keep an eye on your SG....

[untamed]

If you want to keep a premixed salt storage tank then there is another fairly simple system you can employ.


You essentially have two top off systems, one for fresh water and one for salt water.
The fresh water top off works with a slow fill principal (slow pump or restricted solenoid valve).
Saltwater top off works with a fast fill principal (large pump from storage container).
Float switch for fresh water top off is located at standard height to maintain standard water level in sump. Should be controlled so water level remains fairly constant 24/7.
Float switch for saltwater top off is located slightly below the float for fresh water.
A pump on a timer pumps water out of the sump to a drain on a certain schedule to remove the desired amount of water.


Now the idea is the fresh water top off maintains the water level in the sump so the saltwater float isn't triggered from evaporation. However when the drain pump is activated the fresh water top off will be too slow to keep up so the salt flow will trigger and since it's fast fill, will top the tank back up before much fresh water is added. You'll also want to maintain the salinity of the storage tank slightly higher than the desired aquarium sanity as some extra fresh water will obviously be added every time saltwater is added.

I think that is pretty clever. You could add an additional, lower level, level sensor and only allow the fast SW fill cycle to initiate if BOTH the upper level AND lower level sensors are low. The only time that the lower level sensor would be low was during the extreme of a water change dump.

This gets around the problem of having the fast-fill trigger every time the sump even goes just a little bit low. It would wait until the sump is dramatically low.

An aquarium controller could handle that kind of logic. I know that Aquatronica could do it, and I assume that Profilux could also handle that.

In fact, while I've not rigged it to run automatically...what you describe is exactly what happens in my system during a water change. Even as I am refilling the WC sump with new SW, RO water is leaking slowing in because the main sump level is low. This extra top off water is insignificant in my system. In fact, because this is "extra" water added, the system returns to normal as this water evaporates away later. (that only works that way because I have 2 sumps)

[banditpowdercoat]

So do a water change every three weeks. I have a system setup on my tank similar to what I described earlier but I have to manually activate the pump, this way I can do it whenever I'm available. Takes about 2 minutes to change 10 gallons and I don't have to have premixed water ready prior to this. Best of all the hole system is just a pump on a switch and bucket of salt with a cup :mrgreen:


So, you add 10g of fresh water to tank, THEN add salt? Isn't this bad? Takes a while for the salt to mix thoroughly, doesn't it?

You've followed a couple of my other posts, you know I like making things complicated LOL :D Now, if I could rig something to dispense pre measured amounts of salt daily, then I could do a .5g daily auto change and add salt directly to the Sump. Key is getting the salt dispenser to work right.

I know nothing is failsafe, and This is not to get me ouyt of doing the tank checks. I am a Maintenance Electrician, Know all about PM checks and things failing and such. I would really like to be able to make sure the tanks water is god when I am away at camp for 3 weeks at a time. The Mrs isnt allways on top of things.

Sure, I could make up 25g of premix, and set up a drain/fill with that, BUT, I am also trying to get RID of the 2 rubbermaid cans in the dining room, not add more. If a effective ATO flush/fill and Water change setup could be devised, I should theoretically be able to get away with 5g or less RO storage

[banditpowdercoat]

If you want to keep a premixed salt storage tank then there is another fairly simple system you can employ.


You essentially have two top off systems, one for fresh water and one for salt water.
The fresh water top off works with a slow fill principal (slow pump or restricted solenoid valve).
Saltwater top off works with a fast fill principal (large pump from storage container).
Float switch for fresh water top off is located at standard height to maintain standard water level in sump. Should be controlled so water level remains fairly constant 24/7.
Float switch for saltwater top off is located slightly below the float for fresh water.
A pump on a timer pumps water out of the sump to a drain on a certain schedule to remove the desired amount of water.


Now the idea is the fresh water top off maintains the water level in the sump so the saltwater float isn't triggered from evaporation. However when the drain pump is activated the fresh water top off will be too slow to keep up so the salt flow will trigger and since it's fast fill, will top the tank back up before much fresh water is added. You'll also want to maintain the salinity of the storage tank slightly higher than the desired aquarium sanity as some extra fresh water will obviously be added every time saltwater is added.


If you use 2 separate float controls, and set the upper limit for both the SW fill and the FW top off at the same level, then you would not need to up the Sg in the fill water. That is how I was planning to run my setup. ATO and SW use separate start floats, but the same stop float so that no salinity is lost in the tank. Thats the easy part. Its making the SW automatically thats the tricky part. So I dont have to store 50g of SW for changes when I'm away.

PS, If I get this right, I have a feeling those of you with LARGE tanks would love it. 400g+, must get tiresome mixing all the SW up all the time, huh?

[sphelps]

So, you add 10g of fresh water to tank, THEN add salt? Isn't this bad? Takes a while for the salt to mix thoroughly, doesn't it?
I don't think it has any negative effects. I add the salt to specific chamber which contains a filter floss material which holds the salt and as the return flow passes through it dissolves the salt. Doing this I don't even get a white build up in the sump like you might expect, it is however RB salt which might be better for this. I've also been doing this for years in mine and other clients tanks with no signs of any negative effects. Note that I do this with a ~180 gallon system changing 10 gallons weekly.

I know some people like to complicate things and I use to be the same but my experience in the hobby and general every day engineering has taught me that simpler is always better. And although nothing is 100% fail safe it's pretty easy to make something 99.9% fail safe if you keep it simple.

Manually adding the salt will eliminate the need for the extra Rubbermaids, you can buy a larger RO storage tank that can be placed anywhere that you can run a single line from your RO unit. You don't have to make do with the standard 4 or 5 gallon tank.

[golf nut]

. Note that I do this with a ~180 gallon system changing 10 gallons weekly.



How much water would you need to completely dissolve the amount salt you need for 10 gallons, and how long would you think it would stay completely dissolved?.

I designed a mixing device years ago for fuel additives that automatically dosed the correct percentage of additive to each gallon of fuel, this may work well in this application.

[sphelps]

If you use 2 separate float controls, and set the upper limit for both the SW fill and the FW top off at the same level, then you would not need to up the Sg in the fill water. That is how I was planning to run my setup. ATO and SW use separate start floats, but the same stop float so that no salinity is lost in the tank. Thats the easy part. Its making the SW automatically thats the tricky part. So I dont have to store 50g of SW for changes when I'm away.

PS, If I get this right, I have a feeling those of you with LARGE tanks would love it. 400g+, must get tiresome mixing all the SW up all the time, huh?
Yeah that works if you run that style of top off, I however don't usually use such systems. The systems I use only have one float switch for level control and some have an extra float switch up higher but only for safety if the primary were to fail. Either way same thing.

I also agree with the rest, I also don't consider a system automated unless you do absolutely nothing but I've been down that road and invested money into R&D trying to develop a way of adding salt automatically. In the end I concluded that there wasn't an efficient way to do it, anything that would work reliably was too expensive and still not that reliable. Biggest problem is humidity, even in low humid environments salt will clump up quickly if exposed and combined with the typically more humid environments, where open water exists, this problem is amplified. This makes it even more difficult to implement.

Like I said before in the end adding a few cups of salt on a regular bases is a very simple task, unless you married a turkey I think she could probably manage. You could even set an alarm to remind her :lol:

Please note I meant absolutely no offense with any of this, just had to say it, I've noticed an increase in sensitivity over the last few months :wink:

[sphelps]

How much water would you need to completely dissolve the amount salt you need for 10 gallons, and how long would you think it would stay completely dissolved?.

are you taking about supersaturation?

[sphelps]

An aquarium controller could handle that kind of logic. I know that Aquatronica could do it, and I assume that Profilux could also handle that.

A profilux could do it, in fact it could do it and add multiple safety to it. You can also set delay time on the float response which could eliminate the need for higher salinity content in the storage. In addition you can even set the two floats to operate at different times of the day. In fact the profilux has multiple ways to setup auto water change but I never mentioned it before as I assumed the interest was more for doing this without such controllers.

[golf nut]

are you taking about supersaturation?

Not if it is going to re-crystallize, just enough water to fully dissolve the salt .

[banditpowdercoat]

Yeah that works if you run that style of top off, I however don't usually use such systems. The systems I use only have one float switch for level control and some have an extra float switch up higher but only for safety if the primary were to fail. Either way same thing.

I also agree with the rest, I also don't consider a system automated unless you do absolutely nothing but I've been down that road and invested money into R&D trying to develop a way of adding salt automatically. In the end I concluded that there wasn't an efficient way to do it, anything that would work reliably was too expensive and still not that reliable. Biggest problem is humidity, even in low humid environments salt will clump up quickly if exposed and combined with the typically more humid environments, where open water exists, this problem is amplified. This makes it even more difficult to implement.

Like I said before in the end adding a few cups of salt on a regular bases is a very simple task, unless you married a turkey I think she could probably manage. You could even set an alarm to remind her :lol:

Please note I meant absolutely no offense with any of this, just had to say it, I've noticed an increase in sensitivity over the last few months :wink:

No offense taken. I have to wonder though. You allways talk and remind us about the fact that things fail. Yet your only using a single float operated ATO? Do you have a second High High level float on your ATO in case the one sticks?

I have at present, one flaot that operates my ATO to. It signals a timer. The float has to be "switched" for 10 min before the pump turns on. Then when the leven switches the float off, the pump shits off. BUT, there is also a nother float that shuts the whole thing down. This float is set up above the water line. Where it won't get salt creep and lessens it's chance of sticking and causing the system to fail.

Just wondering

[sphelps]

No offense taken. I have to wonder though. You allways talk and remind us about the fact that things fail. Yet your only using a single float operated ATO? Do you have a second High High level float on your ATO in case the one sticks?

I have at present, one flaot that operates my ATO to. It signals a timer. The float has to be "switched" for 10 min before the pump turns on. Then when the leven switches the float off, the pump shits off. BUT, there is also a nother float that shuts the whole thing down. This float is set up above the water line. Where it won't get salt creep and lessens it's chance of sticking and causing the system to fail.

Just wondering
Many of the atos I've installed including the one I use is actually a profilux, it's a single float which uses a maximum on time for safety. You can connect other floats to control the ato in other ways but never have.
I also make a system which uses two floats, one for primary use and the second set higher just for safety if the primary should fail. The system also operates on a timer for additional safety. I feel such a system is essentially fail safe unless someone where to over ride the timer and both floats fail.

[sphelps]

Not if it is going to re-crystallize, just enough water to fully dissolve the salt .
The saturation point is about 25%, and if you maintain temperature it should not precipitate. So volume vise you should be able to mix 7.5 gallons of water with 2.5 gallons of salt at room temp. Higher temperatures will allow for higher saturation.

[Doo]

This is all very cool!

Does anyone have any pictures or sketches?

where do you get these valves or solenoids from?

I am going to post what I imagine but don't know where to get the parts from...

[Jack]

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=7704989&highlight=Calfo#post7704989

[Doo]

This is my small brain in action and I think it should work - don't know??



http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=9&pictureid=1043

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=9&pictureid=1043

[msobon]

This is my small brain in action and I think it should work - don't know??



http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=9&pictureid=1043

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=9&pictureid=1043

Where is the salt coming from? so far I see drain then water topped off with fresh water, I'm assuming that's what you mean by the auto top off.

[banditpowdercoat]

www.fishbowl-innovations.com has solenoids, As well as a couple on ebay. Search ebay user valves4projects I think he's still got all plastic solenoids

[sphelps]

I'm not sure how any solenoid valves will hold up in saltwater, but for fresh water top off you can use Rainbird sprinkler valves which run on 24VAC so you'll need an adapter. These valves come with a 5 year warranty and are guaranteed to fail in the off position. They also don't leak at low pressure like some other types are suppose to. Been using them for years with no problems and the only part you'll ever have to replace is the solenoid itself which is easy to get and replace. I never liked the look of those smaller solenoid valves made for the hobby, I'd rather use a well known proven product.

[banditpowdercoat]

I'm not sure how any solenoid valves will hold up in saltwater, but for fresh water top off you can use Rainbird sprinkler valves which run on 24VAC so you'll need an adapter. These valves come with a 5 year warranty and are guaranteed to fail in the off position. They also don't leak at low pressure like some other types are suppose to. Been using them for years with no problems and the only part you'll ever have to replace is the solenoid itself which is easy to get and replace. I never liked the look of those smaller solenoid valves made for the hobby, I'd rather use a well known proven product.


There's lots of all plastic valves working in industry, with alot worse substances than SW. There is a few classes of material's. But on average, they will be just fine with SW applications.

[Doo]

Where is the salt coming from? so far I see drain then water topped off with fresh water, I'm assuming that's what you mean by the auto top off.

I am not mixing the salt at the time of the water change!

I am going to have it pre-mixed. Auto top off is the system I am going to be using...

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Not quite an auto water change system but here's something :mrgreen:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4685+12683&pcatid=12683

[sphelps]

Not quite an auto water change system but here's something :mrgreen:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4685+12683&pcatid=12683
Looks like $2200 for a storage tank and pump :confused:

[banditpowdercoat]

Looks like $2200 for a storage tank and pump :confused:


Damn, for that I could build a automated system that would ENJOY your tank for you as well as maintain it LMAO

[Doo]

Damn, for that I could build a automated system that would ENJOY your tank for you as well as maintain it LMAO

That is funny!

All I want to do is be able to take a long vication and not worry about a water change...

[titus]

Hello,

www.fishbowl-innovations.com (http://www.fishbowl-innovations.com/) has solenoids, As well as a couple on ebay. Search ebay user valves4projects I think he's still got all plastic solenoids
This float switch looks nice with the John Guest fitting already pre-installed. Are you using them or have you used them before? Considering of order two to do auto water change (one to drain water, one to let water come in) with one of the basic controllers from Digital Aquatics for my brother's turtle tank.

Titus

[andestang]

I'm using a couple identical as those for my auto top off and have been in service for over 4 yrs with no problems and they are exposed to a salty environment. They get fairly warm when they are cycled on so you have to watch where you mount them.

[Zoaelite]

Looks like $2200 for a storage tank and pump :confused:

What a useless invention, I'm sure @ 2.2K they have sold a total of maybe 0? Why would you buy something like that when a 100g rubbermaid and 500gph pump come to less than $80?

[Milad]

ive been racking this in my head over and over and over since i started looking into reefing.
Everything seems smiple except for adding salt. If there were salt "packets" that realesed salt little by little then you could do an automatic water change.
im thinking like those things you put in your toliet that clean it, and they slowly dissolve.

i think the key here is finding something to add salt, not do the water change.

[banditpowdercoat]

We tried to do an order form Fishbowl-innovations. He didn't seem to want to sell any to us. That's why I had a bunch imported Pretty much the exact same valve he is using. He puts 2 JG fittings on and wires on a plug.

[SpateD]

Automatic fish feeder. Minus the fish food and plus the salt?

[martinmcnally]

My idea isn't completely automated but I am in the process of building it to help with water changes because I rarely do them with the hassle of buckets and mixing salt and such.


http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=6970&stc=1&d=1289884747


I am plumbing a garbage bin between my overflow and my sump. During everyday operation valves 3 and 4 are closed, R/O is closed heater and pump are off. Water will flow in and out of the garbage can and it ads more water volume to my system.

When I want to do a water change I open 3, close 1 and 2 and the container is now cut off from the system water. I drain the container with valve 4 and once empty open up the R/O line, it will fill with the float valve, I dump in the salt and turn on pump and heater. I will have it plumped into my R/O unit and my house waste line so I don't have to handle the water or pipes at all. Once the salt mix is to my satisfaction I open up 1 and 2 and close 3. The container is now back in the loop and I had just completed about a 30% water change.

An added bonus I think is I can gradually open the valves to introduce the new water slowly back into the loop.

I know this is no 100% automated process but its going to make my water changes a lot easier and free up my time to stare at tank inhabitants more lol.

I haven't figured out the overflow for the container yet, I dont want to hear a SSHHHLLLLUUSHHHHHHHH from inside the container haha.