How can I keep my ph up?

[reefy]

I cant keep my ph high, 7.95=light on 7.80=light off(refugium light on) I do add ph buffer often. I am currently dripping Kalkwasser 1 drop per second. here is my current water parameter:
nitrate=0
phosphate=0
temp=76.2
Ph=7.80 (light off)
calc=460-470
mag=1500
dkh=5.5 low will add buffer right now

now my question is can I drip ph buffer? I think its a risky move isnt it? what do you guys do to keep your ph to 8.1-8.3? it seems imposible to me.

[Aquattro]

What is your concern with pH? Also, IMO, Ca is a too high, alk too low. Balance out those two items, don't worry about pH.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Open the windows.

[Reefer Rob]

Here's (http://reef.diesyst.com/flashcalc/flashcalc.html) a reef chemistry calculator. Use it to calculate how much baking soda to add to bring your alk up to at least 8 dKh. Take your time, and bring it up over the next week or 2.

[Borderjumper]

I think it was a infamous reefer that once said something like this:

The best way to keep your PH up is to throw away the PH test kit and not worry about it.

I used to stress about my PH being 7.9. I would buffer it up and the next day it would be back at 7.9. Well I stopped trying. It wants to 7.9 so I let it be 7.9. You saw my stuff, non of it minds 7.9PH:mrgreen:

[PoonTang]

I dont even own a pH tester. Havnt tested the tank once in 2 years.

[RuGlu6]

not my quote but makes sense.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm

Unfortunately, calcium and alkalinity are linked in many ways in reef tanks, and these links can lead to serious problems if they are not fully understood. If, for example, you add too much of a calcium supplement, you will drive down alkalinity as you get precipitation of calcium carbonate in the tank. Likewise, adding too much of an alkalinity supplement can result in reduction of calcium. Consequently, trying to correct one problem can cause another. Moreover, if you try to correct a calcium or alkalinity ?problem? with the wrong type of additive, you might accomplish nothing more than creating limestone in your tank.

[Dolf]

I'll take a quick crack at this mostly because I disagree with disregarding PH levels. First, I believe that low magnesium levels can contribute to a low PH reading, so that is one thing to keep in mind. Also, if you are one of the reefers who loves technology, running Ozone and U.V can also cause a reaction (read oxidation) which can contribute to low PH. Even if you only run one or the other they can have a malfunction (buildup in the quartz sleeve for example) so you may want to unplug it for a few days to see if that helps. A buildup of detritus somewhere in the system can contribute as well. The problem with ignoring PH is that it is usually indicative of a different problem somewhere- but that is just me.

A calcium reactor will also keep your PH a little lower than it otherwise would be due to the use of CO2. From Eric Borneman (yeah, I quote him and Dr. Ron a lot...)
“The studies I have read on this suggest that higher pH is better for coral growth, even if it not natural. I would have to go back and look, but I think 8.6 was the highest calcification rate for the species studied."

[Aquattro]

Or you could throw your meter away, no more problems! :)

[Tangman]

The reason your ph is low is because your ALK is low and out of balance with CAL. Use the chemistry calculator that Reefer Rob suggested or this one http://jdieck1.home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/chemcalc.html
Don't use PH buffers and dripping Kalk at this point will only raise your CAL and your CAL is too high right now but don't try to correct it, it will go down as you raise your ALK. Get a ALK buffer or read up on using baking soda as a ALK buffer http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php
Once your ALK and CAL are in balance your ph will come up and be in check, also adding ALK buffer will Raise your ph so add the ALK buffer very slowly
Good luck and I hope the links help:biggrin:

[0sprey]

1 important question...
Do you have a lot of stony corals? (I mean a whole tank full)
Are you sure you need to dose ANYTHING?
Often you can save all the supplements, and just do more frequent water changes. Usually pH isn't a problem, so long as organic waste isn't building up.

[chandigz]

I used to have a ph problem it was always at 7.8-7.9. No matter what I did, it would always return to this level. Now I don't test and I don't have a problem.

[Aquattro]

I used to have a ph problem it was always at 7.8-7.9. No matter what I did, it would always return to this level. Now I don't test and I don't have a problem.

Zactly!! :)

[Diana]

Like was forementioned, try opening up your glass tops a bit and/or opening some windows to the room. A lot of people find especially in the winter months a lower pH due to higher CO2 levels. :noidea: Couldn't hurt to try!

[mike31154]

Must admit that I used to chase pH levels early in the life of my set up. I worry much less about it these days since, as highlighted by posters with a great deal more experience than I, it's often a losing battle causing more stress to the reefer than the tank inhabitants. I wouldn't say my system is ideal, there are issues with algae etc, but nothing real serious and my livestock is fine.

The more I read up on dosing stuff to adjust and correct certain parameters in a SW setup, the more confused I get. The more you get into it, the more you need to keep an eye on other parameters. I like the fairly simple 'water change' methodology. Works just fine for me. I consider keeping a close eye on my tank inhabitants and their day to day behaviour as more helpful than many a test kit. Watching the tank is what it's all about, stress reliever hopefully, not stress creator worrying about keeping certain parameters within a very narrow, possibly unrealistic scale. Obviously I do use them if something starts looking funky, but I've found my pH test kit in particular, difficult to match with what's on the chart. Maybe I should invest in a better kit...

Then there is the opposite camp with the complex probes, controllers, totally automated dosing systems. Successful for many highly experienced hobbyists, but at this point I prefer to keep it simple.

[untamed]

I believe that this Holmes-Farley article would be THE roadmap for dealing with low pH situation. This would be required reading for anyone who is questioning what their pH is doing and whether or not it needs attention.

I agree...manipulating pH should be the LAST thing that needs to be controlled and only once one has good control over Salinity, Alkalinity, Calcium, and Temperature.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.php