Strictly T5 thread

[lorenz0]

After seeing another thread with 2 members talking about T5's thought i would start a T5 thread strickly for T5 questions. Bascally people can refer back to the thread to see what is a good choice and what other people are running. So what are you running?


I think alot of people have been mis-informed on bulb choices because seeing someone buy 4 pure actinic's they are just asking for an algae break out.

[parkinsn]

I have a custom canopy that i am running 6 x 54w T5HO's and 250w MH as follows:

KZ True Blue Attinic
KZ New Generation
Hagen Power Glo 18K
Hagen Power Glo 18K
KZ New Generation
KZ True Blue Attinic

250w 10K Ushio MH (will be 14K on my next lamp change)
This lamp arrangement was recommended to me by 2 fellow canreefers as well as my LFS. The 18K are supposed to be similar to Fiji Purple, however i don't think they are.

http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr41/parkinsn/IMG_0227.jpg

[Canadian]

I have a 6x24 ATI Sunpower over my new tank now. I'll post some pics and more info tonight.

[Leah]

Perfect timing. I have a T5 and was just going to order new bulbs. At the moment I am
using 4 Actinic+ and 2 Midday. Power chrome. Tank is a FOWLER and I was going to just
order what I had. As I am not to sure what may be better. Any suggestions ? Would be
great as I really am unsure. I have read that people think these bulbs are only so so.

[Treebeard]

Thanks for starting this thread lorenz0.

This is what I was told I would be good for a TEK 8 bulb fixture:

"I like 2 actinics for the dawn dusk, a couple of daylight bulbs and 4 x aqua-blue plus, nice color around 14K."

Does this mean the actinics only need to be on morning and evening?

[TheMikey]

I've got an 24" Odyssea 4 bulb over my nano:

Back to Front:

Aquascience 22K
Odyssea 12K
Aquascience 22K
Odyssea Actnic

I'll try to post a pic later today.

[TheMikey]

I use a 22K and an Actnic for my Dusk/Dawn effect but you leave them on with your daylights unless you want to have a really yellow/white tank.


Thanks for starting this thread lorenz0.

This is what I was told I would be good for a TEK 8 bulb fixture:

"I like 2 actinics for the dawn dusk, a couple of daylight bulbs and 4 x aqua-blue plus, nice color around 14K."

Does this mean the actinics only need to be on morning and evening?

[lorenz0]

Perfect timing. I have a T5 and was just going to order new bulbs. At the moment I am
using 4 Actinic+ and 2 Midday. Power chrome. Tank is a FOWLER and I was going to just
order what I had. As I am not to sure what may be better. Any suggestions ? Would be
great as I really am unsure. I have read that people think these bulbs are only so so.

All depends on what you want to do with the tank. Than again what fixture do you have?

also sounds like you have a good source for Giesemann bulbs. personally this is what I would do:

pure actinic
Fiji purple
aquablue+
actinic+
aquablue+
actinic+

This set up you will still get that blue glow from the tank. Stay away from to many pure actinic's. This is second hand info for me and i have no intentions of finding out but they cause crazy algae outbreaks.


Thanks for starting this thread lorenz0.

This is what I was told I would be good for a TEK 8 bulb fixture:

"I like 2 actinics for the dawn dusk, a couple of daylight bulbs and 4 x aqua-blue plus, nice color around 14K."

Does this mean the actinics only need to be on morning and evening?

I am starting to stray away from the 10k/midday bulbs. to me they are to white and running to many has been known to bleach out corals. Your on the right path with the aquablue+ (Giesemann or ATI) as they are similar to a 14,000k bulb. for an 8 bulb fixture, i would run the same set up as i listed above but add 1 more actinic+ and aquablue+

[Leah]

I have the Sunlight Supply T5. I have moved in a toadstool mushroom and a leather only
because they have gotten way to big for my reef tank. I think that is what they are!
Anyhow I am using Giesmann bulbs as I order from J&L. Hope I can say that! I really do
want to keep it basically fish only. I have never had an issue with algae using the bulbs
I have. Is your tank preety dark then?

[banditpowdercoat]

I got a 4 tube TEK light. I love it, its bright.

Present Bulbs

Giesmann Actinic+
Giesmann Midday
Giesmann Midday
Giesmann Actinic+


Next month i'm swapping to Korallen-Zucht Fiji Purple and AquaScience 17500K

[Leah]

That is how my 4 bulb is set up as well. Why are you switching out the bulbs? Are they
better do you think? I like how mine look as well it is on my reef tank. I just replaced to
of the 4 bulbs. 1 Actinic+ and 1 Midday. Last year I just replaced all bulbs at once. Did
not know any different. I am such a chicken to try new things. I would love to see how yours looks.
Thanks BPC

[TheMikey]

My Aquascience 22K are about as blue as my actinic but they at least have some PAR ratings. I'm contemplating putting in another 22K but might see if I can get a Geissman Actinic+ in Saskatoon. Might as well put as much PAR in there as I can.

[digital-audiophile]

I've been running a Tek T5 for about a year now and I still really like it.

The best bulb configuration I have found thus far for my tank

Aquscience Blue
KZ Fiji Purple
KZ New Generation
KZ New Generation
KZ Fiji Purple
Aquscience Blue

Light schedule :

Blues on 3:00
KZ's on 4:00
KZ's off 9:00
Blues off 10:00

I find the shorter light period has helped with my colour, tank temperature, and reduced algae growth.

[Leah]

I thought the Actinics+ offer nothing to fish or coral, just eye appeal for our viewing?

[Treebeard]

Greg, I see you have the 6 x T5 Tek.... 48" I assume since you have a 90 gallon tank. Is there any reason why you did not go for the 8 bulb fixture (other than cost perhaps...). Are 8 T5s too much light for a 90?

[digital-audiophile]

I really debated about going with the 8 bulb fixture when I bought my TEK, but with the standard width on the 90 I figured that the extra bulbs on the end would be wasted as more light would spill to the outsides of the tank rather than in, especially with eurobracing.

Some days I regret not getting the 8 as it would have added just a little extra par but I am happy with the 6. The 8 bulb wouldn't work out to that much more $$, I think they are about $50 more than the 6 bulb but then I guess you can add on another $60 for the two extra bulbs.

[Treebeard]

OA has the 8 bulb fixture on sale for only $14.70 more than the 6 bulb, plus the extra cost of two bulbs of course. Seems like the way to go.


I really debated about going with the 8 bulb fixture when I bought my TEK, but with the standard width on the 90 I figured that the extra bulbs on the end would be wasted as more light would spill to the outsides of the tank rather than in, especially with eurobracing.

Some days I regret not getting the 8 as it would have added just a little extra par but I am happy with the 6. The 8 bulb wouldn't work out to that much more $$, I think they are about $50 more than the 6 bulb but then I guess you can add on another $60 for the two extra bulbs.

[Treebeard]

I have been meaning to ask this question for sometime now, and this thread is the ideal place to ask.

From what I have read, T5 bulbs should be replaced approximately every 12 months. Why?? Is this based on quantitative measurements, or is it because Joe's Fish Store needs to sell you new bulbs once a year for his kids college fund?

[Aquattro]

I really debated about going with the 8 bulb fixture when I bought my TEK, but with the standard width on the 90 I figured that the extra bulbs on the end would be wasted as more light would spill to the outsides of the tank rather than in, especially with eurobracing.

Some days I regret not getting the 8 as it would have added just a little extra par but I am happy with the 6. The 8 bulb wouldn't work out to that much more $$, I think they are about $50 more than the 6 bulb but then I guess you can add on another $60 for the two extra bulbs.


Greg, you KNOW what you need....don't fight it.

[TheMikey]

I've heard that T5s that are not overpowered into VHO should last 14-18 months

[digital-audiophile]

Greg, you KNOW what you need....don't fight it.

I fight the brave fight ;)

I have been meaning to ask this question for sometime now, and this thread is the ideal place to ask.

From what I have read, T5 bulbs should be replaced approximately every 12 months. Why?? Is this based on quantitative measurements, or is it because Joe's Fish Store needs to sell you new bulbs once a year for his kids college fund?

On the zeo system KZ actually recommends that you replace your bulbs every 6 months :neutral: I really think this is overkill.

A year seems to be ok but they do really lose a great amount of par.. I need to find the post by ihavecrabs, he did some par readings on his old T5's just before he changed them and then the new readings, it was really a big difference.

[Treebeard]

That is enough proof for me.


A year seems to be ok but they do really lose a great amount of par.. I need to find the post by ihavecrabs, he did some par readings on his old T5's just before he changed them and then the new readings, it was really a big difference.

[digital-audiophile]

I found the thread

http://canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=48037&highlight=par

a big loss in par over 10 months.

[banditpowdercoat]

That is how my 4 bulb is set up as well. Why are you switching out the bulbs? Are they
better do you think? I like how mine look as well it is on my reef tank. I just replaced to
of the 4 bulbs. 1 Actinic+ and 1 Midday. Last year I just replaced all bulbs at once. Did
not know any different. I am such a chicken to try new things. I would love to see how yours looks.
Thanks BPC


Leah, I went with the Geismann Bulbs when I got my TEK light, at the advice of Wendell, @ Ocean Aquatics. Myka was the one who told me she had the same bulbs as we do, and swapped to the Korallen-Zucht Fiji Purple and AquaScience 17500K. Said she liked them better. So, I figured, what the heck. It's been about 12 months on these bulbs now, so they all need a change. I should maybe change 2 at a time, spread the cost out a bit. But I know I'll screw that up LOL. So, I'll just change all 4 at once, keep it simple

[Canadian]

Keep in mind that PAR drop reported by ihavecrabs is with a fixture that isn't actively cooled. Of course you're going to burn the schnikeys out of the lamps without active cooling (in addition to getting lower PAR values). You're better off going with a higher quality fixture than a TEK because in the long run your lamp replacement costs will outweigh the up-front difference in the cost of the fixture. Comparing a TEK fixture to something like an ATI, Sfilligoi, Fauna Marin, etc. is like comparing a Seaclone to BK. I'm sure there is obviously some PAR drop in the better fixtures but I doubt it's as rapid as the uncooled TEK and comparable fixtures. This is one of those cases (similar to skimmers) where you really get what you pay for.

I'm going to have to get a PAR meter so I can monitor the PAR changes in an actively cooled fixture.

I found the thread

http://canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=48037&highlight=par

a big loss in par over 10 months.

[lorenz0]

Keep in mind that PAR drop reported by ihavecrabs is with a fixture that isn't actively cooled. Of course you're going to burn the schnikeys out of the lamps without active cooling (in addition to getting lower PAR values). You're better off going with a higher quality fixture than a TEK because in the long run your lamp replacement costs will outweigh the up-front difference in the cost of the fixture. Comparing a TEK fixture to something like an ATI, Sfilligoi, Fauna Marin, etc. is like comparing a Seaclone to BK. I'm sure there is obviously some PAR drop in the better fixtures but I doubt it's as rapid as the uncooled TEK and comparable fixtures. This is one of those cases (similar to skimmers) where you really get what you pay for.

I'm going to have to get a PAR meter so I can monitor the PAR changes in an actively cooled fixture.

Thats a very good point which is why i have been debating swapping out my TEK for a powermodual down the road, also the 8 bulb power modual is close to the same size as the 6 bulb TEK light. But yes active cooling plays a big part when it comes to the life span of the bulbs but for most people the TEK is not that bad of a fixture.

[digital-audiophile]

Cool, before I go and spend the extra bucks on a ferrari T5 fixture it would be nice to see the par drop in a XXXX time span as compared to the TEK's. :)

[lorenz0]

you can get a similar effect by running a fan across the bulbs on a TEK

[Ryan]

I think this is a great thread. We need a thread with just pictures of the tank (FTS) with the combos of lights. This would be a big help also.

[banditpowdercoat]

WHAT!!?? I thought my TEK light was one of the good ones??? Almost $500 with bulbs. active cooling now??? I can't win for trying.

[Scythanith]

I have been an advocate of T5's for some time now. I have never used metal halides over a reef tank, only reptiles, so I can't really comment on T5's vs. MH's. I get good growth, great colour rendition which I can tailor to suit my likes. Here are my tanks that are on T5's. I apologize, my quick editing has left the tanks looking dull, and they are much more vibrant in person.

85 gallon display:

Top
AquaScience Blue 22000
AquaScience Special 15000
KZ Fiji purple
AquaScience Special 15000
AquaScience Blue 22000
AquaScience Blue 22000
BOTTOM

Two 4" fans running air across the length of the bulbs.

Dawn/Dusk Bulbs
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/Scythanith/T5%20lights/85-gal-T5s-dawn-dusk.jpg
Dawn/Dusk Tank
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/Scythanith/T5%20lights/85-gal-display-dawn-dusk.jpg

Daytime Bulbs
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/Scythanith/T5%20lights/85-gal-T5s-daytime.jpg
Daytime Tank
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/Scythanith/T5%20lights/85-gal-display-daytime.jpg

40 gallon Frag Tank

TOP
KZ New Generation
AquaScience Blue 22000
KZ New Generation
AquaScience Blue 22000
BOTTOM

Open to air, no active cooling (I will add fans at some point, I'm just lazy right now)

Bulbs (I was running 2 Fiji Purple instead of the instead of the AquaScience Blue 22000 but I switch to get colour instead of growth)
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/Scythanith/T5%20lights/40-gal-T5s.jpg
Tank
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/Scythanith/T5%20lights/40-gal-display.jpg

10 Gal Canreef Contest Tank

AquaScience Blue 22000
AquaScience Blue 22000

Two 3" Fans drawing air out of the hood.

Bulbs (Notice the difference between the left and right bulb. The one on the left is 5 months old; the one on the right is brand new)
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/Scythanith/T5%20lights/10-gal-T5s.jpg
Tank
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k99/Scythanith/T5%20lights/10-gal-display.jpg

[lorenz0]

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/lorenz000/IMG_2313.jpg

back to front

Giesemann Pure actinic
Korallen-zucht fiji purple
Korallen-zucht new generation
Korallen-zucht coral light (10,000k)
Korallen-zucht new generation
Aqua medic reef blue

[banditpowdercoat]

WOW, those Fiji Purples are really Purple.

Myka, can we see some pics of your tank and the light it produces. Now, seeing how Purple they are, I dont know. I am used to the blue now.

[lorenz0]

here is one i have always found interesting

2 ATI blue+, 2 ATI blue special, 2 ATI pro color

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k72/jartanyon/cl.jpg

[banditpowdercoat]

I also notice most of you have your lights 8-12" off the water. Is there a specific reason for this? I have my light hung form the celing, on a retractable string hanger, and we lower it to like 3" off the water. Is that bad? I have the Plexi cover on the light

The more I look at bulbs online, the more confused I get.........

[Scythanith]

My 85 definitely has a warmer, almost red/pink hue. The Fiji Purple does a helluva job! I think the two AS Special 15000's really counteract any blue spectrum that the AS Blue 22000 put out, at least to the naked eye. Obviously the light is still getting to the corals, it just looks nothing like my other two T5 tanks! It doesn't have the blue tinge whatsoever.

That's the joy of T5's. you can configure them to suit your preferences/needs. The bad part is a bulb costs ~$25-$40 per, and a 6 to 8 bulb fixture can cost up to $320 a year in bulbs. With the IceCap ballast's I use (660), the bulbs are overdriven to ~145% of their normal output.

ie. 39 watt 3' bulbs overdriven to ~56.5 watts.

So my 6 T5's on the 85 = ~340 watts. Almost a 400 watt halide, gah!

[banditpowdercoat]

You overdrive your T5? what ballasts should I use for my 24W bulbs? I am never satisfied, am I LOL

[Canadian]

Here are some pics. My old point and shoot camera makes everything bluer than it actually is and washes out all the colors. But I thought I'd stay true to my word and post some pics - next step is buy a real digital SLR camera.

My lamps are from front to back:

ATI Blue+
ATI Aquablue Spezial
ATI Blue+
ATI Blue+
ATI Aqualblue Spezial
ATI Blue+

For a frame of reference with respect to the disparity between the way things look in the pictures and how they look in real life I did have 1:1 ratio of Blue+ and Aquablue Spezial but it was too white.

Now I'm considering trying out a KZ Fiji Purple in place of one of the Aquablue Spezials

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv223/argrant/100_1488.jpg?t=1237951838

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv223/argrant/100_1496.jpg?t=1237952152

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv223/argrant/100_1492.jpg?t=1237952192

That last pic is just one that I took with the flash and the color is truer to real life (unfortunately it's not one of the tank)

[Leah]

Dumb Question, please don't laugh! On my tanks I keep the light 3 inches from the top.
I do not have the light cover, but I have always kept the glass lid thing on my tanks.
My question is should I take off the glass and purchase the acrylic for my fixture's.?
Then raise the light or leave it? Good lord. Thanks for all the light picture's. It helped
huge with my decision. Depending on what you guys think I may order the covers with
new bulbs. I keep tossing the idea around and around. Not sure of the benifits of removing the glass. That and worried about the evaporation.....help!
Thanks any help would be great!
Leah

[banditpowdercoat]

Dumb Question, please don't laugh! On my tanks I keep the light 3 inches from the top.
I do not have the light cover, but I have always kept the glass lid thing on my tanks.
My question is should I take off the glass and purchase the acrylic for my fixture's.?
Then raise the light or leave it? Good lord. Thanks for all the light picture's. It helped
huge with my decision. Depending on what you guys think I may order the covers with
new bulbs. I keep tossing the idea around and around. Not sure of the benifits of removing the glass. That and worried about the evaporation.....help!
Thanks any help would be great!
Leah


Leah, I have a glass top made for my tank as well. I now, never use it. I found the glass, 4mm, would block a noticeable amount light. That and I was forever cleaning it. Then, with no glass, and no plexi cover on my lights, I was cleaning my reflectors, but not as much as the glass. The plexi cleans up so much easier than the reflectors. Have you decided on new bulbs yet? what are you going with?

[RuGlu6]

Dumb Question, please don't laugh! On my tanks I keep the light 3 inches from the top.
I do not have the light cover, but I have always kept the glass lid thing on my tanks.
My question is should I take off the glass and purchase the acrylic for my fixture's.?
Then raise the light or leave it? Good lord. Thanks for all the light picture's. It helped
huge with my decision. Depending on what you guys think I may order the covers with
new bulbs. I keep tossing the idea around and around. Not sure of the benifits of removing the glass. That and worried about the evaporation.....help!
Thanks any help would be great!
Leah

Removing glass cover from your tank would be a good idea just for proper gas exchange; someone just lost all the fish not too long ago on here (Alfredshouse?) because of lack of O2. Our tanks are not perfectly designed for proper gas exchange anyway.
Ideally tank height needs to be equal to its width, or greater like a lake or an ocean, but this is the case only with cubes, so we all need some help with gas exchange.

Re T5, I don’t use any cover and my 6 lamps Tek fixture is on the legs at the lowest setting which is about 6” or lower from water surface just above the splash level

[Leah]

Does it effect Temp in your tank?

[banditpowdercoat]

Didn't notice a temp difference in my tank

[Canadian]

The problem with removing the glass cover is that you're going to expose your T5 reflectors to salt spray and humidity which will lead to pitting of the reflectors and eventually diminish light output.

Then the other problem you have is that if you choose to protect the reflectors by putting the acrylic shield on the fixture you're going to trap heat in the fixture around the lamps causing them to burn out faster and lower the PAR produced. Ideal T5 output occurs when the cold spot on the lamp (the end where the label is on the lamp) is kept at a temperature around 115-120 F. And this is not simply accomplished by blasting the lamps with a fan because the air should be directed at the cold spot on the lamp. The concern regarding overheating the lamp when leaving the acrylic shield in place is negated when you have a fixture with active cooling. And again, this is why it is prudent to purchase a quality T5 fixture - you save on lamp replacement costs in the long run and you get better output.

One of the trends I've noticed in this thread is that the majority of posters are relatively new to the hobby. I think what unfortunately happens is that new hobbyists read that T5s are great and see people keeping higher demanding corals with them. So they've done part of the research when it comes to making a lighting decision but they unfortunately miss part of the story - the important part where lower quality fixtures produce significantly less light output and the importance of things like high quality individual reflectors, active cooling over the cold spot, and appropriate lamp shielding among other factors such as quality of ballasts.

[Leah]

Hey, I had all these questions I was going to ask you when you came by.
I have my reef at 80F. I will watch it closely, how far is your light above the water level.
Do you have the acrylic cover on yours?
Thank-you, Banditpowdercoat,
This is fun right!?#*

[Leah]

No wonder so many give up, just when I thought I had an answer........My light is crap
make that both are. When I stop crying I will hit post quick reply, nope i will jump the gun.

[banditpowdercoat]

Ya Leah, I'm second guessing my choice in light fixture now too. Well, originally I never wanted to keep SPS. Now I have a Clam, and am thinking maybe a birdsnest woult look good there, a Acro there........ I keep my yank at 77-78. heater comes on in winter, but never in summer. I have a A/C unit in the living room that helps. I will be needing a larger A/C unit when I get the new tank tho.

So, I'm thinking, I need 4 new bulbs now, and the TEK light isnt active cooled. I may just try a 250W MH light from www.fishneedit.com I know they are not best quality, but for the price, I can sure try. I have allways loved the MH shimmer.

[Canadian]

Leah,

The Tek light isn't crap per se. It's just that a lot of hobbyists seem to see the recommendations regarding using T5s and then go out and buy something like the Tek fixture thinking they're getting a good T5 fixture. Unfortunately, they're missing most of the critical design components of a good T5 fixture. And as I've stated previously the initial savings of buying a cheaper Tek are eventually obliterated when your lamp replacement is sped up, and your output is diminished so you have to run more lamps to achieve the same output produced by a higher quality fixture.

With that said, I ran a Tek light temporarily on my SPS dedicated tank for about 7 months and it kept things alive but they certainly grew slower. Something like a Tek light would be fine for a soft coral or LPS tank and obviously will work with SPS - it's just not even close to the best option for an SPS tank. And users need to understand that while they're "using T5s" there's a HUGE difference when you're comparing output and efficiency from fixture to fixture.

The most cost effective lighting solution is still MH in my opinion. The up front costs and lamp replacement costs on a quality T5 fixture make them a nice toy with which you can more readily manipulate color. However, there are other down sides to T5s for lighting an SPS tank such as the dreaded pastel coloration or "chick corals" (Brad loves this look).

[Leah]

I get it. I like what I have in my reef, I am not interested in getting to complicated with
the more light demanding creature's. Love this reference to chick corals thats good I guess that is me too! Thank-you, I can finally expel that breath I took over an hour ago.
Thank-you again Canadian,
Leah

[digital-audiophile]

I love the info on Tek's vs higher end models.

I like my Tek and have a great track run with it. I really would like to see some more technical comparisons on the different fixtuers, much like the Sanjay MH bulb tests before I am convinced however.

[Leah]

digital-audiophile,
How is yours set up? How far off the water, covered tank or light itself?

[digital-audiophile]

I am using the TEK legs with them set on the lowest level, so they are about 8" max off the surface of the water. My tank is open top and I don't have the shield on the lights. I get a bit of splash but I clean the bulbs and the reflectors weekly to keep the corrosion away.

[Leah]

Thanks!

[randallino]

This is the bulb configuration that I am planning on going with for my Sfiligoi T5 8 bulb 54w. The fixture should be here in about a month.

Front
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Fiji Purple
Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Blue Plus

Does anyone know where I can get a GE T5 6500 bulb in the lower mainland?

[Stones]

This is the bulb configuration that I am planning on going with for my Sfiligoi T5 8 bulb 54w. The fixture should be here in about a month.

Front
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Fiji Purple
Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Blue Plus

Does anyone know where I can get a GE T5 6500 bulb in the lower mainland?

I found that running Super Actinic bulbs in a T5 fixture is a bit futile. Pure actinic bulbs produce very low PAR ratings so the corals don't really benefit from using them. Basically, they are used only to generate a phosfluorescent glow from corals when they are exposed to that particular wavelength of light. If you have the ability to run only the actinic bulbs while no other bulbs are running for a dusk/dawn effect, then I could see them being useful. However, with any other type of bulb running at the same time, the pure actinic bulbs get washed out so that you can't even tell they are on. I've tried running them with Aquascience 22K's, Fiji purples, Kz 14K's, and Aquascience 15K's and all of the above bulbs made it seem like the actinic bulb wasn't even on. If you can't run just the actinics by themselves, I would suggest using 2 differerent bulbs such as the Aquascience 22K's or ATI Blue + bulbs instead. That way you still get the blue spectrum and some phosfluorescence, but you get a moderately high PAR reading as well.

[Canadian]

I found that running Super Actinic bulbs in a T5 fixture is a bit futile. Pure actinic bulbs produce very low PAR ratings so the corals don't really benefit from using them. Basically, they are used only to generate a phosfluorescent glow from corals when they are exposed to that particular wavelength of light. If you have the ability to run only the actinic bulbs while no other bulbs are running for a dusk/dawn effect, then I could see them being useful. However, with any other type of bulb running at the same time, the pure actinic bulbs get washed out so that you can't even tell they are on. I've tried running them with Aquascience 22K's, Fiji purples, Kz 14K's, and Aquascience 15K's and all of the above bulbs made it seem like the actinic bulb wasn't even on. If you can't run just the actinics by themselves, I would suggest using 2 differerent bulbs such as the Aquascience 22K's or ATI Blue + bulbs instead. That way you still get the blue spectrum and some phosfluorescence, but you get a moderately high PAR reading as well.

+1

The T5HO actinics are so dim they almost appear to not even be on when other lamps are turned on. The ATI Blue+ and Giesemann Actinic+ (the name is misleading because it's not an actinic) are pretty blue and provide some good fluorescence while also adding to the PAR.

[Leah]

This is how I set up my Tek 6 bulb just to see how it looked,
Actinic +
Aqua blue +
Actinic + Had a midday originally
Aqua blue +
Actinic +
Actinic + I really like the way this looks. This is on my FOWLR

On my 72
I currently have in my 4 bulb,
Midday
Actinic +
Actinic +
Midday, I think I will try putting 1 Aqua blue + in place of 1 midday.
I love the Chick Glow alot.
Will try and get pictures. When the bulbs are switched out. Only really to prove I do
actually own an aquarium. Tee-hee! Ordering extra bulbs just so I can play around to
to see what I like best.
And as long as I do not start second guessing I am ordering them today.
Thanks everyone for your help,
Leah

[lastlight]

This was what REALLY sold me on the Pro Color when I was ordering my bulbs. He's actually not using them anymore though. UVL 75/25 or something similar sounding I think...

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k72/jartanyon/cl.jpg

My bulbs are in transit. Hoping they arrive intact!

Not entirely sure of order (don't know yet how my light's are grouped for dawn/dusk) but thinking of:

Front
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Pro Color
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Pro Color
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus

I'm new to T5 myself so I'm not sure what to really expect.

[lastlight]

Does anyone know where I can get a GE T5 6500 bulb in the lower mainland?

I ended up ordering from ReefGeek. My bulbs are also 80w and it was proving to be a hassle to source the exact mix of bulbs I wanted locally or semi-locally. They carry this GE bulb as well as many others.

[banditpowdercoat]

Leah, do you have any pictured of both tanks? to compare the blue levels?

I am starting to get stressed over this LOL. May just go MH

[Leah]

I will try and get pictures could take awhile. Personally I hated my halide it scared the
bejeeber's out of me. Not so sure Coralife is a very good one. probably not. If you come by this way before you need one you are welcome to come have a look. $1400.00
mistake but hey what the heck.

[Doug]

Yea agreed. Those actinics are pretty crappy for intensity. I also like the blue +. SWC blues are similar to the blue + but cant speak for longevity.

If I ran my fixture again, I would likely switch to AquaScience bulbs. Keep looking at a standard 50g, thinking it would be a little more room than the cube and allow me to use my 4ft. 6 bulb fixture, with more than enough light for my sps with it being only 18in. deep.

[lorenz0]

If I ran my fixture again, I would likely switch to AquaScience bulbs


i actually had them and was not a huge fan. Personally i have liked the KZ's but i still have yet to try the ATI's which will probably be next

[TheMikey]

I was curious if anyone that had individual parabolic reflectors on their T5HO set up (24W preferably) could post the dimensions of the reflectors (width being most important). Might be doing a retrofit :D

[Scythanith]

An IceCap reflector for a 24w bulb is approx 19 5/8" long by 2 1/2" wide. Once you put the IceCap endcaps and stand-offs on the total length is about 23 1/2" long.

[Samw]

here is one i have always found interesting

2 ATI blue+, 2 ATI blue special, 2 ATI pro color

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k72/jartanyon/cl.jpg


I like this. Where are you guys getting your ATI bulbs?

What would be the equivalent from URI/UVL?

[Samw]

This is interesting. A T5HO bulb for $7.95USD. Can't be good. :)

39W Genesis T5 6500k

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=UV-F39T5%2F865%2FGEN&Category_Code=UVT5

[Canadian]

I like this. Where are you guys getting your ATI bulbs?

What would be the equivalent from URI/UVL?

You can get ATI lamps in Victoria from Progressive Reef. Here's their online store:

http://progressivereef.com/t5bulbs.php

[Samw]

Thanks.

By the way, could someone tell me whose tank lorenzo attached to his post ? I thought it was his until I read that he doesn't use ATI.

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k72/jartanyon/cl.jpg

[Canadian]

Thanks.

By the way, could someone tell me whose tank lorenzo attached to his post ? I thought it was his until I read that he doesn't use ATI.

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k72/jartanyon/cl.jpg

Sam,

The owner of the pictured tank has the username "fijiblue" on RC. He was running 2 x UVL Aqua Suns, 2 x ATI Blue Plus and 2 x ATI Aquablue Spezials and then swapped out the UVL Aqua Suns with 2 X ATI Pro Colors.

You can read and see a little more in this link:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1332562

[Samw]

Sam,


You can read and see a little more in this link:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1332562

Thanks. I wouldn't have found that thread on my own given that the Reef Central Search page only works for me at around midnight. The thread was a bit confusing.

I think I'm going to get 3 UVL Aquasuns and 2 UVL White Actinics for my 5 lamp fixture.

[Canadian]

Sam,

That combo would be quite "white" but I guess it depends on your preference for appearance. I also think you'll be missing out on enough blue spectrum that you won't get the kind of fluorescence most people are looking for.

I'd be more inclined to go with something like 3 ATI Blue Plus and 2 ATI Aquablue Spezial

[Samw]

I guess I'll see how that looks and adjust accordingly afterwards. Right now, I can get a good deal on the UVL's so the ATI's will have to wait. I guess the combo that I specified is the equavalent of 4 Aqua Suns and 1 Pure Actinic as the Actinic Whites are 50/50's.

Maybe I could try 2 AquaSuns, 2 Actinic Whites, and one 75/25. One switch will be 2 Aqua Suns and 1 Actinic White and the other switch will be 1 Actic White and one 75/25.


*UPDATE*

I ordered 2 Aquasuns, 1 Actinic White, 1 75.25, and 1 Super Actinic. I'll see how that goes.

[lorenz0]

grim reefers PAR link

http://tfivetesting.googlepages.com/par

[JMes]

ffg

[Zoaelite]

I don't know about the algae out break Lorenzo, I think that has something more to do with excess nutrients over to much of a blue spectrum. Besides algae grows faster at a lower spectrum (around 6700k) while actinics occupy the 20K spectrum. I'm running the 8 fixture Tek 5 over my frag tank now with 3 actinics, 1 figi and 4 day lights and I love the color it brings out in my corals. The actinics add a "pop" to the florescent corals and I my favorite time to watch them is at dusk/ dawn for that exact purpose.
Levi

All depends on what you want to do with the tank. Than again what fixture do you have?

also sounds like you have a good source for Giesemann bulbs. personally this is what I would do:

pure actinic
Fiji purple
aquablue+
actinic+
aquablue+
actinic+

This set up you will still get that blue glow from the tank. Stay away from to many pure actinic's. This is second hand info for me and i have no intentions of finding out but they cause crazy algae outbreaks.




I am starting to stray away from the 10k/midday bulbs. to me they are to white and running to many has been known to bleach out corals. Your on the right path with the aquablue+ (Giesemann or ATI) as they are similar to a 14,000k bulb. for an 8 bulb fixture, i would run the same set up as i listed above but add 1 more actinic+ and aquablue+

[lorenz0]

Well to me pure actinic's are a waste of a bulb now. after further researching your only gaining looks from them due to their low par output. But i do agree, the really do bring out the colors which is why i wish i could fit a larger fixture (lol 10 bulb with 2 pre actinics). As of now i am leaning more towars running a 50/50 ratio of 14,000k bulbs and 22,000k bulbs. why i like the 22,000k bulbs is they still benifit the corals with a great par reading but at the same time the really bring out the color, just not as good as the pure actinic's. As of today my new set up is:

aquascience blue
KZ fiji purple
KZ coral light new gen
Aquascience blue
KZ coral light new gen
Aquascience blue

I am going to run this for a month or 2 and see how it benifits the tank but i do wish i had 1 more bulb in there... or 2

[Zoaelite]

Keep in mind even with 6 bulbs your still getting ALOT of light. I went from the 4 to the 6 to the 8 bulb fixture just because I wanted my neighbors to think I had a hydroponics lab in my basement :lol:. Besides im seeing fantastic growth on my zoas and the color is amazing.
Levi