Need RO set up help...

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

I sold my RO unit and started buying RO water by 5 Gallon jugs. It was fine for a while but I am tired of it and want to go back to a home unit again.

The reason I stopped using mine in the first place was because in my old condo I was able to just simply hook the unit up to my bathroom sink but in my new place, all the faucets are all fancy and you can't hook it up properly. I didn't want to bother figuring it out but now I do. Wish I hadn't sold the unit now!

Anyways I see people hook them up under the sink...is this easy? I know you would need a picture of under my sink to know but can anyone give me an idea of how its done?

What would be the best way to hook up an RO unit to the kitchen sink plumbing or is this not really possible?

Thanks!

[banditpowdercoat]

Go to your local plumbing store and ask them, thats what I did. Take a picture of whats under your sink, and they can get you all the parts. Me, it was a plastic T, kinda like John Guest fittings, but slide the sink line in and tighten the connector was all. Then adapted the T to the RO line with a shutoff in between. The drain, well, I have a dishwasher too, and taped into the drain for that with a rubber coupler.

[mark]

As said, very easy to Tee into a cold supply line. For the waste can use a saddle Tee on the drain line.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Hmmm....ok, I am kind of lost!

I will take pics and see if you guys can help better with them.

[banditpowdercoat]

should have 3 hoses on your RO unit. A Yellow, Orange and Blue, right? If so, Yellow in supply, or incoming. from the cold water line under the sink. The Orange is the waste water. It goes into the drain and the blue goes to the tanks :D

Now, depending on what kind of plumbing is in your home, depends on what kind of fittings you need to adapt the RO lines to the house lines. And you need a shutoff on the Yellow line. The cold water is presurized, and without this shutoff, the RO will constantly run.

[tang daddy]

If you are buying a new ro unit they usually come and supply you with everything you need, I installed mine in about 15mins. Make sure you shut the cold line and then it's basically cake after that. If you are buying a used unit then it still should come with everything you need.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

So I have no idea where I would even start!

Yes it is a new unit.

This is what is under my kitchen sink. Any ideas? Is it possible?

To be honest I don't even know which the coldwater line is??? :redface:

Hahahaha...this could be a bad idea!

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r179/Justinpsmith/Yeah197.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r179/Justinpsmith/Yeah198.jpg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r179/Justinpsmith/Yeah199.jpg

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

The RO/DI unit is the Aquasafe Maximus 100GPD...and comes with no instructions. There is a link to some but it does not work. I did a search around the net and found most people LESS than impressed with Aquasafe and their customer service/instructions.

Anyone have a digital copy for me?

I also found that a lot of people say they are plumbed wrong when you get them. Also that you need to remove the part that adds back TDS for drinking water taste...don't know what this is exactly...

Going to need a bunch of help.

I have used an RO/DI before so when I look at this one, it does make sense but in the past I just used a faucet adapter to hook it up to the tap.

These are the two lines and parts it came with. Not sure how to use them :)

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r179/Justinpsmith/Yeah198-1.jpg

[tang daddy]

ok dude, the red I believe is the supply you will want to hook that up to you cold supply under the sink.

to find your cold turn on the right tap and just to be sure feel from underneath it should be the one on the right side of your drain.

next unscrew the nuts on the red line and rescrew it on the cold line, also there should be some rubber to insulate and this goes inside the red line clamp. so I'll repeat again trace cold line (right side) shut off cold supply open the tap cold side on your sink to make sure there is no water in the line. insert rubber between the clamp on the red line screw nuts back on evenly abit on one side abit on the other.

dont screw one on fully as this may be uneven. after the red line/ clamp is on secure and by secure I mean snug, slowly turn the tapping device clockwise until it pierces the cold water supply line after it pierces the cold water line unscrew it all the way out.

next your drain the black piece in the middle under your sink, unscrew both screws on the yellow line the other piece clamps on to your black drain pipe there should also be a rubber insert for this and something to make a hole in the black drain pipe I would screw a hole on the straight part that comes down underneath the drain of your dishwasher. same as the steps above screw both together evenly and snug.

Then onto the last step...

turn on cold water supply slow while the tap in your sink is open to relief pressure. check for leaks it may have alittle condensation which is ok then shut it off. One thing to make sure on your rodi trace the yellow line back to the unit there should be a lever for the drain this needs to be open so that it can make clean water, it should be labeled also make sure from the cold line that the supply is fully open aswell and if you go to home depot you should be able to pick up an attachment hose so you can extend it to your wc and top off also you can p/u a tap to open and shut from the end of the hose just to make life easier. Oh and one more thing sometimes from the manufacture they dont tighten every screw/fitting on there so after you set it up get a flash light go under the sink an check for leaks. If you still can't figure it out I can help you on saturday but you supply the beers I drink stella cheers.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Hey Chris...thanks. I am going to give it a shot tomorrow but yeah if I need help, I will give you a call...I too drink Stella, so your in luck :)

I will let you know how it goes though...I am sure I will still have a bunch of questions.

[fencer]

I don't think you need to use the Vampire tap as those are used for pipe(in the basement). You need according to your pictures : on the cold water line a t connection and a valve to shut supply off to the RO unit. So the T connects to your cold water line, then the valve connects to the T and then connects to the input of your RO unit. You are going to use brass fitting to connect all this. RONA can help you with this.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Anyone done this with the T and able to take some pics for me? I like this idea because when we sell the place, that would be easier to fix. I am pretty sure I know what you mean and could figure it out quite easy (I live across the street from a Home Depot too) but pictures always help :)

What about for the drain? Same thing?

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Anyone? I am going to go over to HD now. Just wanted to maybe see a picture of what I am doing so I can explain it to them easier.

Man...I don't even know what size the cold water line is :redface:

So...I am going to cut the coldwater line, add a brass "T". Off of the brass "T", I am going to add a shut off valve (any specific one?) and then that will go to the RO unit. Will I need any special fittings to go from the valve to the RO line? I guess so since there is a big size difference.

Then for the drain...I will again need to cut into it and add a "T" or would a "Y" like the dishwasher be better? With this one I know I can get a reducer that will allow me to use john guest fittings to easily attach the waste water line from the RO unit...but are they ok to use here? Is there a better way?

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Back from HD and they SUCK. At least mine does. Couldn't help me at all. Just said call the manufacturer and ask what I need.

Anyways...going to need to wait for help here before I can go back and get what I need.

I really want to get this thing going today if possible...anyone?

[mike31154]

You actually have a picture to look at, even better, the real thing. The hot water shut off to the left of your sink drain already has a tee to supply hot water to your dishwasher by the looks of it. See the extra shut off valve almost touching the bottom of the cabinet? So all you need to do is take a close look at that and do the same at your cold water supply line on the right. Now I can't tell by the picture whether the lines coming through the wall are copper or the new plastic supply piping, but either way you'll need to splice into that somehow and it looks like you may need to remove the current cold water shutoff before you can do anything due to lack of room. Otherwise you might try t-ing into the grey flexible cold water line going up to the sink after the cold water shut off valve using small brass or nylon compression fittings. Looks like the RO/DI tubing is almost the same diameter. You might even be able to use the existing bass pressure fitting on the red RO/DI tube, just detach the saddle clamp if that's possible and tap into a t installed in the grey flexible supply line. Don't forget a dedicated shut off valve for the RO/DI line.

[mike31154]

Edit to my last. You may lose some pressure if you decide to tap in downstream of the cold water shut off and that may affect your RO/DI production. Don't know that much about them since I don't own one myself, but have been reading that they need a good amount of water pressure to work properly. So, you may be well advised to tap into the larger line coming through the wall to minimize water pressure loss. So basically, copy what has been done for your dishwasher supply with the RO/DI hookup on the cold water side.

[mike31154]

He he, just noticed that it looks like you've even got some wiring roughed in there coming through the wall, presumably for a garburetor if you decided to install one. In any case, a free 15 amp (or maybe even 20 amp) dedicated ciruit under the sink!

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Hey thanks for the help. I am going to read it a few more times and try to get my head around it (I am so bad with this stuff :) )

Yes the wiring is for a garburator. The previous owners of the place had it removed. We were thinking of having it put back in but I am not sure yet.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Ok now I understand what you mean after looking at how the dishwasher is installed. I still don't know exactly what I need but I will keep looking and try to figure it out. I think its easier to tap into the coldwater right in the flex tubing that goes up to the faucet but are you saying that will be where I would get reduced pressure? That makes sense.

That tubing is actually thicker than the RO stuff but I think I could find a fitting to work anyways. I just have no idea what the diameter of that tubing even is. Doesn't say on it.

For the waste water going to the drain, would I basically be doing what they did for the dishwasher? That seems like a bit more work since I then have to cut the ABS and add a "Y".

At least I feel like I am getting a bit closer to understanding :)

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

So...I was just thinking...if I shut off the coldwater with the valve on the right there, that will shut off the cold water going to the faucet but its not going to shut off the cold water supply completely. So I would have to have the cold water turned off...well I have no idea where. I am in a condo and I assume I would have to have the building shut the water off for me?

I was just thinking too...I used my last RO unit for year with it attached to the faucet. Seems to me then that I should be able to tap into that grey line that goes up to the sink and still have enough pressure. That can't be less pressure than I had through the actual faucet right? Shouldn't it actually be more since there is less distance?

If I did tap into that line, what fittings would I use?

I have figure out the drain and its actually going to be quite simple and easy.

[mark]

That's all you have to do.

Get a Tee with compression fitting that will work on the grey line. Could use the existing valve as your only shutoff, but handy to get a second valve for after the tee for servicing your ro without interferring with the sink's tap, though not really required. For when you move just replace the grey line (now with the tee) with another continuous piece.

If you don't mind going without water for a bit just turn off the valve, take out the grey line (between the valve and the faucet), grab a piece of the water line for your ro unit, go to HD depot the show them what your planning. Since the grey line is probably bigger than the one for the ro, you'll need a tee and reducer.

[mike31154]

So...I was just thinking...if I shut off the coldwater with the valve on the right there, that will shut off the cold water going to the faucet but its not going to shut off the cold water supply completely. So I would have to have the cold water turned off...well I have no idea where. I am in a condo and I assume I would have to have the building shut the water off for me?

I was just thinking too...I used my last RO unit for year with it attached to the faucet. Seems to me then that I should be able to tap into that grey line that goes up to the sink and still have enough pressure. That can't be less pressure than I had through the actual faucet right? Shouldn't it actually be more since there is less distance?

If I did tap into that line, what fittings would I use?

I have figure out the drain and its actually going to be quite simple and easy.

1. Yes, I don't know how your condo is set up so if you want to tap in before the cold water shut off, you'll have to find out where the main shutoff to that line is. Check some of the other rooms in your condo that also have plumbing, sinks, toilets, laundry etc. You might find a main shutoff there somewhere, otherwise....

2. Yes, you can tap into the grey line, I was just thinking out loud there. I don't know what your RO/DI specs are for water pressure for a 100 gpd membrane. The smaller line may actually give you more since it's kind of a venturi effect going from the large supply line to the sink supply. But it's like any plumbing, every valve and fitting is going to create a slight pressure loss. I'm not a plumber though so I can't say for sure what that may be.

3. Any home/building supply store will have a bunch of these little grey sink adapter lines (as well as rigid stainless plated copper ones) laying around in a bin somewhere. Grab one and start hunting around in the other bins for appropriate fittings, they shouldn't be far away. Take your red RO/DI line with you if you can so you can test fit the fittings in the store or at least show the staff what you're trying to do.

4. Yep, the drain should be pretty straightforward, not a lot of pressure involved, just need to make sure you've got an adequate seal.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

That's all you have to do.

Get a Tee with compression fitting that will work on the grey line. Could use the existing valve as your only shutoff, but handy to get a second valve for after the tee for servicing your ro without interferring with the sink's tap, though not really required. For when you move just replace the grey line (now with the tee) with another continuous piece.

If you don't mind going without water for a bit just turn off the valve, take out the grey line (between the valve and the faucet), grab a piece of the water line for your ro unit, go to HD depot the show them what your planning. Since the grey line is probably bigger than the one for the ro, you'll need a tee and reducer.

Might be a really stupid question but what kind of fittings am I looking for? All I found at my HD is brass. Didn't seem like the right stuff.

They also did not have anything small enough to use as a valve for the RO line (1/4" OD)...the smallest they had was again brass and 3/8".

Ughh...this is getting frustrating.

Any reason I can't just use the vampire teeth? Are they meant for actual pipes? Im guessing not meant for tubing?

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

For the drain I got the 1-1/2" "Y" fitting and a reducer that gets me from 1-1/2" down to 1/2" but again thats as small as I can go with fittings from my HD. They had nothing to go any smaller. I think I may have a 1/2" to 3/8" on an old Ozone Reactor I built but that doesn't do much since the waste water line on the RO unit is 1/4" OD.

Jeez...I though this would be a snap. The only reason I am in any hurry is that I have no more RO water in my top off and I am watching the sump water go down more and more by the hour :(

Gonna have to use dechloronized tap water tonight I guess.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Might go back again tonight to figure this out...if brass is ok to use?

[mike31154]

Sure, brass should be fine, looks like that's what is on your red RO/DI line saddle clamp anyway. You might ask about nylon compression fittings too. They may be in a different aisle but shouldn't be too far from the other plumbing stuff. The only other thing that comes to mind is 'john guest' fittings?

If you have the clearance at the cold water shut off, you're best bet may be to go with the 'vampire' saddle clamp fitting. You'll still want a shut off valve for the RO/DI though. No getting around that.

[mark]

Nothing wrong with brass, it's all fresh water.

If your going with the extra valve just get one for after the tee and reducer for the 1/4" line (like the on in the picture with blue handle).

You unit didn't come with a saddle tee for the drain (looks a lot like the piercing valve but bigger and no valve)?

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/das75/PA290040.jpg

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Sure, brass should be fine, looks like that's what is on your red RO/DI line saddle clamp anyway. You might ask about nylon compression fittings too. They may be in a different aisle but shouldn't be too far from the other plumbing stuff. The only other thing that comes to mind is 'john guest' fittings?

If you have the clearance at the cold water shut off, you're best bet may be to go with the 'vampire' saddle clamp fitting. You'll still want a shut off valve for the RO/DI though. No getting around that.

I would like to try to do this without the vampire thing I think...

When I was in HD I did find all the stuff I would need to get the intake side of the RO unit working (Would look kind of frankensteined together with all the reducers and such) but I couldn't find a way to work out the drain side.

I guess I could use all kinds of reducers and make it work but it just seems like such a mess to do it that way.

They do have a VERY limited amount of John Guest fittings but nothing small enough.

I think unless I go to another HD I will have to use brass. I am fine with that but just wanted to make sure it was safe to use.

And yes of course, the fittings on the unit are brass :redface:

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Ok, well I am going to go ahead and make the trek to a different HD and find the right stuff. It just seems so dumb to live across the street from HD and have to go to a different one 30 mins. away :neutral:

But the HD across from me is a joke....they call it a "new kind of depot" and do not carry much building supplies (not even 2x4's!!!). If you need tiles or tropical plants though, you have quite the selection. It should be called "Home Depot Lite"...

[mark]

here's a link (with picture) (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/RO/DI-Filters-&-Systems-RO-Valves-and-Adaptors/c9_99/p507/1/4%22-Quick-Connect-Drain-Clamp/product_info.html)to that saddle tee for your drain.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

here's a link (with picture) (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/RO/DI-Filters-&-Systems-RO-Valves-and-Adaptors/c9_99/p507/1/4%22-Quick-Connect-Drain-Clamp/product_info.html)to that saddle tee for your drain.

I am really missing something though...how is that used??

Sorry, I know I am asking a million question but I have no idea about this stuff. Actually the concept of its fine but finding the right fittings has been impossible so far...

[mark]

I am really missing something though...how is that used??

Sorry, I know I am asking a million question but I have no idea about this stuff. Actually the concept of its fine but finding the right fittings has been impossible so far...

Below the fitting for your dishwasher drill a hole, put the clamp over an tighten, insert the waste line from you ro unit, done. Would route the waste water line similiar to your dishwasher (a upward loop).

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Below the fitting for your dishwasher drill a hole, put the clamp over an tighten, insert the waste line from you ro unit, done. Would route the waste water line similiar to your dishwasher (a upward loop).

Ok....I will take a picture then because I don't know exactly how that will work. I understand drilling the hole (I guess the diameter of the tubing?) and then using the clamp but the tubing doesn't go all the way through the clamp, so would not reach the drilled hole. Obviously thats not a good thing :)

There is a little tiny white piece that came with that clamp but I don't see how that would help. Must be needed though. As well it has a little piece of foam I think...

[mark]

Same way the piercing valve works. The white foam is a gasket that goes between the pipe and the clamp (like the black rubber in the picture). The ro tube doesn't need to go all the way into the hole in the drain, just seat it in the connector, but obviously the holes need to line up.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/das75/P1080064.jpg

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Ok, thanks...

SO I used a brass "T" from that shut off valve that was already there that Tees up to the faucet and also to the RO unit...It says its a compression fitting and the guy at HD said all I need to do is insert the tubing and then tighten the nut. I have done that but it leaks. Am I missing something? Was there suppose to be a washer or something? Or have I probably just not tightened it enough?

I also realized that having this hooked up to the coldwater line means I am using very cold water. I though to make RO water it was suppose to be around 70-75 degrees? Am I wrong?

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

BTW thanks for all your help guys!

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

This is where I am at. The "T" leaks at the top where is connects to the grey tubing. Any ideas why? I can't seem to tighten it anymore. Is there something I am missing?

EDIT: Looks like it should be tighter though doesn't it? Should the nut be all the way to the bottom?

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r179/Justinpsmith/Newer225.jpg

[mark]

not exactly sure what you're meaning with the tees, but the connector should come with a plastic or brass ferrel that goes over the tube and some times an insert for inside.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/das75/P1080065.jpg

[mark]

is the ferrel up on the tube a bit, shouldn't need to bottom out the nut.

As for the temp, warm water is ideal, but hook the unit to the hot and blow the membrane, to cold with decreased flow or come up with some sort of mixing valve to blend the hot and cold for that just right temp.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Summed everything up in one post...

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Summed everything up in one post...

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r179/Justinpsmith/home.jpg

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Ok...sorry I am all over the place here.

I will just re-write the questions I am still looking for answers for:

1. Are the greenish beads I have with the unit (on the very top) the water polisher that I need to leave out? I am pretty sure thats what they are but not 100% sure. I think after that last stage (RO membrane) the line should just go to the drain and to the clean water...

2. Can I use the vampire fitting that came with the unit for the drain water? It came with the unit to be used for the supply but I didn't need it for that. I don't see why it couldn't be used on the drain but figured I should ask.

3. Where the waste water leaves the last stage, there is a little valve of some kind...is this to adjust how much water is going out? I think its suppose to be 4:1 right? Does this just stay all the way open?

4. My last unit had the prefilter stage and then two carbons before the RO membrane on top. This one only has one carbon in the middle and some kind of paper towel looking thing. What is this? SHould I switch it to carbon?

5. Since this is very cold water going through the unit and thats not ideal, do I need to lessen the flow through the unit? What are the long term effects with using such cold water? Any tips?

And again, thanks everyone. I would be sooooo lost without this place!

[tang daddy]

Ok for the leak if you still have it on the grey supply with brass fitting use plumbers tape that should solve it.

1- the beads in the clear canister is the di resin it should be left in.
2-yes the vamp fitting can go on the drain line do it under the dishwater return on the straight part.
3-the valve on mine is about half meaning it lets less water drain hence making the filtering alittle slower but not by much.
4-it is fine the way they have made it, if I remember correctly there is 2 pre sediment filters and 1 carbon.
5- the cold water may cause condensation if your house is warn to solve this problem use the plastic planting trays to put under the unit there may only be slight condensation so a shallow tray is more than enough.

your welcome.

[mark]

Did you get the leak fixed? could be the ferrel ring is facing the wrong way.

1.green beads the di part of the ro/di
2.concern I would have with the vampire valve is know at least with mine, with the valve full open there's still some restriction and I've had to replace mine once as well as the rubber swelled . The waste should be unrestricted.
3.the valve is a flow restrictor/flushing valve (the unit needs some back pressure to force water through the membrane), normally the handle is 90° the the line for operation, turn open to clean the membrane
4.running my Aquasafe with the standard filters, seems to work okay
5. sorry if confused that one. You run the valve full open. What I was meaning cold water decreases the efficiency of the unit. Feeding the unit warm water would be better be not easily done, don't connect to the hot line as will wreck the membrane. Read on the Aquasafe site a while back the the gpd rating is at something like 77° and a certain PSI and for every degree below, down rate the unit by ~1.6% (believe these where the numbers)

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

Did you get the leak fixed? could be the ferrel ring is facing the wrong way.

1.green beads the di part of the ro/di
2.concern I would have with the vampire valve is know at least with mine, with the valve full open there's still some restriction and I've had to replace mine once as well as the rubber swelled . The waste should be unrestricted.
3.the valve is a flow restrictor/flushing valve (the unit needs some back pressure to force water through the membrane), normally the handle is 90° the the line for operation, turn open to clean the membrane
4.running my Aquasafe with the standard filters, seems to work okay
5. sorry if confused that one. You run the valve full open. What I was meaning cold water decreases the efficiency of the unit. Feeding the unit warm water would be better be not easily done, don't connect to the hot line as will wreck the membrane. Read on the Aquasafe site a while back the the gpd rating is at something like 77° and a certain PSI and for every degree below, down rate the unit by ~1.6% (believe these where the numbers)

Ok, thanks Mark and Chris. You guys have been a great help!

The valve on the waste line on my unit is not like a usual ball valve or anything, its some little metal one that you turn (or spin really) and actually I don't like it! Its hard to figure out. Otherwise, everything seems to be working fine now.

[mark]

Valve might the variable flow restrictor that Aquasafe sells as a extra.

I've got one (in addition to the flush valve) and use it to add just my waste ratio to 4:1. Found it helps.