Which is stronger - eurobracing or cross-center bracing?

[Chin_Lee]

On a tank that is 9 feet long x 27" high x 31" deep, there should be some sort of bracing right? But which type of bracing is stronger? Eurobracing the entire length of the tank or two 12" cross braces at the 1/3 and 2/3 mark of the tank.
I prefer eurobracing but I don't know if the glass for eurobracing will be strong enough to stop the glass deflection bowing on a 9 feet tank. Anybody with experience on this?

[dabandit]

I could be wrong but doesnt eurobracing on a tank that size usually have 2 centerbraces,again I could be wrong I only dream of tanks that size lol

[Chin_Lee]

I dunno....... what is normal for a tank that size?

[dabandit]

lol I did a job for a guy with a 15foot long tank it had eurobracing that had centerbraces,so what im trying to say is I think you use both but what do I know lol

[Trigger Man]

From what i've seen at a tank around that length they have had both the Euro brace and the centerbraces.

[Chin_Lee]

do you guys recall how eurobracing and cross braces were put on?
were the eurobracing on the inside and the cross braces on top of the eurobracing and tank?

[sphelps]

I remember doing this for someone else once, it's for a 7 foot tank but the results would be the same for a 9 foot. It should give you an idea anyway.

So a quick note, all these plots show displacement. The main purpose of the bracing is to minimize deflection to not only stop the glass from breaking but minimize distortion. So obviously the lower the max displacement the better the brace.

Tank with no bracing for reference:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/265galdisplacementnobrace.jpg
Max Displacement = 2.2mm

Tank with single large center brace and small euro bracing (standard design)
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/265galdisplacementcenterbraced.jpg
Max Displacement = 0.26mm

Tank with Euro Style Bracing (4")
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/265galdisplacementeurobrace.jpg
Max Displacement = 0.36mm

Tank with Euro Style Bracing and two smaller center braces (4")
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a174/sphelps/265galdisplacementeurobracewithdual.jpg
Max Displacement = 0.26mm

It's clear that the large center brace works effectively and that's why it's common practice for large standard tanks like the 230. A 4" euro brace works well but not quite as good, adding two additional center braces matches the large center brace and gives you better access and better opportunity for lighting. A larger Euro brace (5") will also likely match the large center brace but in the end the exact style and layout of your bracing will depend on your tank size, lighting and access requirements.

All in all you can't really say one is stronger than the other, both designs have the potential of being equally strong it just depends on the size. Also for a longer tank the results would be similar since you would use thicker glass.

HTH

[Trigger Man]

The way I've seen it the most is; cross bracing from front to back of tank, and Eurobracing goes from one end to cross brace point, then starts again after crossbrace point. I've seen a couple that ran eurobracing all around and cross bracing was siliconed flush to the eurobrace. I think the first way would be stronger as the brace is siliconed to the front and back panels.
I hope the way I wrote this makes sense to you.

[GreenSpottedPuffer]

do you guys recall how eurobracing and cross braces were put on?
were the eurobracing on the inside and the cross braces on top of the eurobracing and tank?


I saw a 8x3x2 tank that was eurobraced and then had two cross braces ontop of the eurobrace. It also had a black trim, so the crossbraces were NOT ontop of the walls of the tank...just ontop of the eurobracing.

I guess it depends on how thick the glass is too.

[Doug]

Chin, I would never do a tank that large without cross bracing, but thats me. I,m not a huge euro brace fan myself, except where one wishes to reduce the typical water running over the edge thingy. Plus I would think euro bracing helps with jumpers, who seem to follow the glass up in a lot of cases.

They are a pin for running anything that needs attaching to a tank rim. I guess I agree with using the both of them or at least cross bracing and some euro, depending on your needs. Mine had the cross bracing installed first, as its the most important, then the euro butting up to it.

I,m guessing the ends of the euro which is basically cross bracing, gives major support to the ends, with the center two cross bracing supporting the center portion. The parallel front and rear euro section would be more for water stops and the such, at least, IMO.

Mike has a 5ft. by 2 by 2 and its just euro braced but your 27 & 31 is a lot of tank. :D

[Doug]

I saw a 8x3x2 tank that was eurobraced and then had two cross braces ontop of the eurobrace. It also had a black trim, so the crossbraces were NOT ontop of the walls of the tank...just ontop of the eurobracing.

I guess it depends on how thick the glass is too.

Yea, I would think that may work well also.

[sphelps]

If using both Euro style and center you would apply the euro brace first on the top and then apply the center braces so they sit either under or on top of the euro brace. Under is would probably work best.

[dabandit]

The one I saw was 1 piece 1'' thick acrylic all in one eurobrace and crossbars,sounds pretty expensive though the one piece route that is

[Chin_Lee]

great deflection diagrams Schelps. It will really help me make a decision.

[Atomikk]

Best tie-in for the tank is a single piece cut euro-brace w/ center braces in either acrylic or glass. The whole thing is out of one piece. This way the structure is strong when tied into the tank.