Newbie - Need Help on Water Chemistry

[brandy]

Hi All:
I have a new system setup and running for about 3 mnths now. Only LR and LS are with for now.
The Test Kit I bought with me when setting it up was the Marine Master Delux Testkit which help me testing 4 elements:
- Amonia - I cannot match with the chart (They said: It means OK ?!?)
- Ph - 8.2 or 8.2 (color doesn't seem to be exact matched)
- Nitrite - Can't match the color chart (They said: It means OK ?!?)
- Nitrate - Still, I cannot match the color chart (They said: It means OK ?!?)

So, my question is, are those, I tested, seem to be right? Did I do it correct? What else do I need to perform except those 4?
Oh, I forgot, my system is tend to be reef system with afew fishes.

I appreciate your helps.

[Sean]

You will want to check your salt levels of course hehe and temp to see that things are okay. Tell us about your tank, what did you end up getting? Where did you get it.. people here are dien to know!

The nitrate and Nitrite will exchange levels as the tank developes and cycle (Right?), but to get things started you might want some live rock in there as well. I personally didn't buy a testing kit till about a month and a bit in when setting up my tank. The longer I waited the bette. I'm not good at the chemistry aspect, but for about a week when i did start testing I was seeing slight differences and then one day i had a huge jump and things were looking up. trail and error on the testing will help you grasp it a little better.

I'm not nearly as experienced as most on this website but i just started my tank 6 months ago in calgary. :) You can take my suggestion or leave it but I would suggest removing the sand for now if you can. for starting a tank its good to know where the waste collects and how much the tank produces. If removing the sand isn't an option or you rather not part with the look make sure you are mixing it up while you wait. Sand tends to trick you in thinking the tank is clean when its really dirty and thats going to effect your testing ;)

[marie]

Sounds like you're on the right track and being patient, thats good :mrgreen: .

Now that your cycle is over you at the least you will need to start testing for calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium

Here are some good links to get you started on "reef chemistry" and just remember never add anything you can't test for

http://canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=31116

Actually you can check out the whole reef chemistry forum here

http://canreef.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=41

[brandy]

Now that your cycle is over you at the least you will need to start testing for calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium

Thanks for the infor, but which are the "good" testkit for the additional 3 you mentioned, Marie? - Of cause I do have tester for Salt level :lol: and it's keep staying at 1.22-1.24 since I started testing.

-------
Question about my tank.
Well, All from my most favorite vacation activities: Diving !
So, I designed and get LFS built it for me.
- Main tank has 2 seperated divides, big big front for displaying, small rear (about 4-5" width is for overflow with all drains and returns drew builtin.) total about 170G. Sump at the bottom under stand and about 40G: Drain section with bubble reducer and prefilter, then to skimmmer section and overflow to Refug section, then to return box which water will be pumped back to main tank from there.
- ATO are DIY aswell with 10G for it and the sensors were bought online.
- Auto doser for 4 different choices (So far, I have 3 in mind (Seachem Complete, plus and calc.) the other still sitting dry, might be for some kindda "food" when go on vacation.
What else, Oh...
- Light is t5 8x54W I forgot the brand, hehe... sump with 24W T5 aswell. I can't risk by using MH, too hot for under the stand. Al light are autoset for D-D and daylight saving. For now, I only turn 1.5hr aday, and increase 30min every 2 weeks.
- 2x300W heater (theone made of Titanium, unbreakable ?!? (I wonder, never test it)
All return together to maintank are 3 out puts, I added 2 "blow" for current, but still wonder if current would be too strong?!? - Find out later. All the returns +"blowers" are connected to to auto feeder circuit to be set to slow down to minimum when feeding (still working on it, too busy for now)
My bad is I travel alots, so I realy realy need some automatic system work flawless, like ATO, Auto doser, Auto feeder and auto lighting. All seem to be ok now, just only the FEEDING are little complicated due to the water current, but I will make it work very soon.
------

* Hospital, that's what people call, I do have a 29G system with everything except ATO and autofeeder for what we called, Hosital tank.

That's about it, I believe. And I do really hope it wont turn me down for just trying to bring those truly nature (I've seen from Diving) into my house ! LOL
What an expensive pictures but I think it's really a well reward !!!

Have fun reefing and dont forget to help me out as this is my first ever "step" into this hobby.

Thanks guys, gals !!!

[Marlin65]

Color on test kits for PH ect are usually between somewhat. I found they never really match the piece of paper.
You should buy yourself a calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium test kit next.
If you want to run a reef you will have to keep these in check.
Buy the Salifert ones they are good and not too hard to use.
You can also get a PH probe that will give you a more exact reading on your PH.

[Marlin65]

Your SG should be stable at 1.025 for reefs.
With your ATO you should be able to keep this consistent.

[brandy]

Don't know what to say but thanks, thanks, and thanks... for all your helps.
I found this is most helpful method of learning and studying.
---
Sorry, I didn't think about making a jorney of my tank from begining. It was so busy and I built the system with those "little free time after diner. Forgot to take pics along the way...huhuhu...:redface: