Plumbing--need your help

[sharuq1]

Ok, so I made a couple crappy diagrams of what I could use to do the plumbing. Please tell me if it would work, or why it wouldn't and what would work. I am not going to be drilling any more holes in the tank or adding an overflow box.

Edit: bahhhhh I guess I am making an overflow box :lol:

It is just the tank with 2 holes (one is higher than the other, not sure why). What size pipes should I be using? I have a couple 1" ball valves at home...I think they are one inch anyway... I believe the bulkheads are also one inch, but cannot find the measuring tape, lol. For the sump pump we have an oceanrunner 3500

[Delphinus]

The blue lines are your overflow lines? Ok, it's not going to work (sorry). You need to add an overflow box over the holes.

Problem #1 - in a power failure, water will drain to the lowest point - the lower of the two holes. That's a lot of water volume draining into your sump - unless your sump has enough "empty capacity" it will spill onto your floor.

Problem #2 - you'll never get water level control in the main tank. Ie., you'll likely only get a couple inches at best of water pushing above the holes. You probably want water up near the top of the tank.

My suggestion - get some glass pieces cut and silicone them in over the holes to make internal overflow boxes. Here's what I mean (this is the tank journal thread of my 65G FW tank, it shows the overflow box idea that I'm suggesting might work well for you. The glass cost was minimal - something like $15 IIRC):
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=28505

[sharuq1]

Well I was thinking of having upturned pipes to take care of that problem so it would just skim the surface of the water, like the tanks at Golds. would it work then?

[Delphinus]

:redface: Oh. ... Yeah Ok that will work fine then.. :)

[mark]

Depends on the amount of return flow but I'd be concerned about noise with just an upturned pipe (again flow, but wondering if a Herbie would work with two upturned pipes one just a little higher than the other?).

Horizontal drains (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1257783) seem interesting also.

[Delphinus]

That's true about the noise. I have a tank with just a standpipe and it gurgles. That's why I suggested the overflow box. The horizontal drain idea looks pretty neat, thanks for the link. :)

[sharuq1]

We don't really spend much time in the living room, so noise isn't a huge issue. I would like it as quiet as I can get it, but a bit of noise is ok. A huge flushing gurgle all the time...not so ok, lol.

Sooo...looks like my idea for the upturned pipe deals might work. Would I be better off doing it like in #1 or #2? I know the advantage of having two lines incase one gets clogged, but it is simpler to do just the one. Opinions?

Does anyone know how they managed to get the upturned pipe overflows at Golds as quiet as they are? Just adjusting or bigger pipes or...??

Having seen your post Tony I will consider the overflow idea. I am just scared to do that sort of thing. I also considered the horizontal overflow prior to this but decided it was just too fugly for the living room, despite being a good idea.

Anyone else have any comments on how I should change it to make it better? Please say so :)

[Slick Fork]

I would avoid ball valves on the return lines, you don't want to be restricting that flow at all.

I would also recommend some sort of glass overflow, do you remember how mine was set-up? You could do something like that and not lose a whole lot of real estate using the lower hole as the primary drain and the upper hole as a safety. It will look better and be a little more functional.

[sharuq1]

What if I were to make a coast to coast inner overflow that is 2.5" across by 48". Then, because the holes are at different heights, divide it with a piece of glass down the middle, essentially making it into two overflows with the look of one?

Also the ball valves I was thinking of to put on there were mainly if I wanted to turn it all off for whatever reason.

I was thinking of teeing in a valve to one of the outputs that goes "nowhere" in case in the future I want to plug another tank into the system on the bottom (like an extra refugium or something?). Or would I be better off teeing that to the return pump instead just in case I don't put it on the bottom?

Does anyone know where I could find some flatter strainers to fit over the bulkheads to keep snails etc. from getting in?

[sharuq1]

Scale is out of whack as I have not measured anything. I am thinking no elbows in the tank, just the bulkheads. 2.5" from the back of the tank to the front of the "box", then have the box placed just under the lowest bulkhead, and divide the thing in half so that water will be able to get to the high hole. The braces can go in the box under water level (maybe half inch to an inch) The braces being there should strengthen it and alow me a ledge so I can lay a piece of eggcrate over top and not need strainers (I hope). (braces on outer edges of the box are missing in the picture as I am not so good with google sketchup)

http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/1393/anothershotna8.th.jpg (http://img71.imageshack.us/my.php?image=anothershotna8.jpg)

I am thinking of plumbing it with external dursos like Dephinus has in his fw tank.

Thoughts?

[Delphinus]

I think technically you need an elbow for it to be considered a "Durso" but ignoring that technicality I think this would work just fine (with or without the elbows on the inside). In fact you could put strainers on the bulkheads if you went without the elbows. (I wish I could put a strainer on my FW overflow because small fish end up in my sump all the time (dang Ameca splendens breed worse than rabbits - I think they are born pregnant).)

[Slick Fork]

That looks like how I've got mine set up. Sorry I couldn't get to your PM earlier, damn job keeping me from wasting time on the net. I like it, and it works on my tank! I believe mind is 2.5" from the back glass to the overflow side. With a set up like that, you could just place egg-crate on the top and it will keep the fish out!

[sharuq1]

Anybody think there would be any benefit to adding a SCWD to the return?

Umm...how would I do that anyway? :neutral: <--handy impaired :lol:

My plumbing is going to be 1.5". Are all the SCWD's the same diameter for hookup or is there a big and small version? What is the pipe diameter for
hookup?

[sharuq1]

Default
That looks like how I've got mine set up. Sorry I couldn't get to your PM earlier, damn job keeping me from wasting time on the net. I like it, and it works on my tank! I believe mind is 2.5" from the back glass to the overflow side. With a set up like that, you could just place egg-crate on the top and it will keep the fish out!

Thanks! Do you have elbows inside your "channel" or is it just water straight to the bulkhead? Do you have strainers on your bulkheads?

[Slick Fork]

no elbows or strainers, I just built a little eggcrate barrier but somehow I still seem to get the odd chromis in the sump.

[dsaundry]

I don't want to sound too dumb but shouldn't your S/W top up be for F/W?? Or is that for when you do a water change only?

If you are constantly topping with s/w it will look like the dead sea.
I may be blind but on your ato I didnt see the plumbing from what I assume will be a rodi unit..

[sharuq1]

:lol: Sorry I just had to chuckle as I imagined trying to explain that to my fiance. "Yeah...thought I should top up with salt...seemed like a good idea at the time...um..is that why it's all dead?"

The sw thingie is just for WC's, the thing I marked ATP will be a container that I will fill by hand (too far away from RO/DI unit) with the RO for topping up....assuming I can figure out how to work Tunze ato (I think that is what it is :neutral: ) thingie I found in some stuff that came with some other stuff I bought. My bucket lugging won't be quite done, sadly, hehe