Ghl Profilux Discussion And Support Thread

[Aqua-Digital]

Due to the huge increase of Canadian GHL ProfiLux users we are now directling all questions gossip and support here, please use openly.

[Reefer Rob]

Welcome back! :mrgreen:

[Aqua-Digital]

Yes I know I know sort of been a bit neglectful while being hectic, but you have my full assistance and support, I have all threads on notification so when anyone posts I will know and can answer as promptly

Please fire away!

[Aqua-Digital]

firmware 4.01 and ProfiLuxControl 4.0.1.0 is ready to download:
http://www.ghl-kl.de/Produkte/Aquar...iLuxII_V401.zip
http://www.ghl-kl.de/Produkte/Aquar...ol_II_V4010.exe

New in this version:
- level control can be programmed to be active at certain times
- new security feature: after a firmware update the user first has to confirm that settings are OK, after that the controller will restart

[lastlight]

Ok as I posted in the other thread I would like to do the following for now with my unit:

- measure and control temperature
- measure ph of tank and also control calcium reactor via ph probe
- control (3) 250w metal halides
- control (2) 2x39w t5 kits
- control 2 tunze powerheads
- control water level in sump

Would the following purchases allow me to do all of that:

- Profilux Advance package
- Ph expansion card
- Second Ph probe

I'm a little confused about what the Advance package includes.

ProfiLux Plus II
· 1 x 6 socket DIGITAL powerbar
· RS232 Connection
· PH port
· PH electrode
· Temperature Sensor
· Temperature port
· Level control port
· 1 x Level sensor Float optical Switch
· RS232 port and pc connection cable
· 1 x Tunze Stream connection cable
· pH calibration fluids
· CD software and manual

Does "1 x Level sensor Float optical Switch" mean it comes with the float sensor and the optical sensor? Is everythig included to actually use the sensors or do i need any more cables or mounting kits etc?

The Advance plus seems to include the nicer sensor mounting bar but lists the sensors individually so I am confused there.

Also, Can I run my 3 mh ballasts off a regular powerbar i already have that is plugged into one socket on the digital powerbar? And also plug both t5 units into another regular powerbar and use a second socket on the digital strip? This would leave me 4 free sockets on there. My thinking is that all my stuff would be well under 15A.

[Aqua-Digital]

Lets break this down for you, I think i answered this for you today already didnt I:question:

The advance pack

You would need to add

1 x tunze2 cable
1 x YL2-1 splitter
1 x pH expansion card
1 x pH probe

Yes you could run your MH on the 6 way digital as you state, your total load is 6.81 AMPS for the MH, the new digital bars are fitted with 200amp surge protected relays. And you can use your same stated method for your T5's but bearing in mind the MH will all switch on and off at the same time as they are on the same switched circuit same as the T5's

Level sensor -

This kit comes with all you need for level control, the kit includes

1 x FLOAT sensor
1 x Holding braket
1 x Mounting assembly (the acrylic rod assy)

It does not come with the optical sensor

Hope thats helps

[lastlight]

Thanks for the fast reply.

I was previously asking about the entry package earlier.

A suggestion I might make is to not mention the word optical in that line for the sensor as it is a little misleading...

I look forward to getting in on one of these asap. Sounds like support is good too!

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

what line are you referring to? I am lost sorry.

If we have an item listed somewhere that is not included please let us know.

Please let me know if we can help further

Bets wishes
Michael

[lastlight]

Listed under the advance:

· 1 x Level sensor Float optical Switch

To me it isn't clear whether that means float switch or optical switch. Or both. I could also be a little slow up top....

[Aqua-Digital]

Hiya

Cant find that anywhere this is what is listed on our website

ProfiLux Plus II with Temperature Probe
Digital 6 socket power bar
GHL pH Probe
RS232 Serial cable 1.8M
Level sensor bracket
Float level sensor
Float sensor holder
Tunze1 control cable
pH7.00 Calibration
pH9.00 calibration

Guess you have seen this on a dealer site? I will inform them to adjust this error, if you can let me know who it is.

[lastlight]

Actually yeah you're totally right.

It was on progressive-growth's site.

[Aqua-Digital]

Their site is being updated next week so the change will be implemented with that, but thanbks for letting is know

[niloc16]

i have a new one for ya. yesterday one of my halides was not turning off. i figure great now the digital bar is messed up but it wasnt. i messed around for 2 hours. the communication led was on but the controller wasnt communicating with it. i tried unplugging the powerbar with no luck, disconnecting and reconnecting the comm line from the bar with no change. i had to re program the bar before it would do anything. ever heard of that before. and we never had any power outages or anything and the other 3 powerbars were fine

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

Only time this ever happens is if the data line as occurred interference.

I suspect from High striking ballasts this is the most liely cause

let us know if it happens again

[niloc16]

its all good now. this unit rocks. the controller has to be one of my favorite pieces of equipment on the tank. i just wish i could get the wirelss to work because it would make adjustments on the controller a 1000 times easier and quicker.

[Ya Dude]

is there an electrical solenoid for auto water top off available

[Aqua-Digital]

Yes loads are made, all good aquatic shops should sell them

[skylord]

Colin.....give me a call and we can get our schedules arranged to get that wireless working for you.

Scott

its all good now. this unit rocks. the controller has to be one of my favorite pieces of equipment on the tank. i just wish i could get the wirelss to work because it would make adjustments on the controller a 1000 times easier and quicker.

[niloc16]

thanks scott, i'll figure out my sched and let you know

[JoelV]

Just launched !New website offering GHL Profilux products.
We are working closely with Aqua Digital to provide you with all the latest and greatest products GHL has to offer. We are fully stocked and ready to ship next day. Please feel free to PM me if you are considering chosing Profilux and need help with your order or give us a call on our toll free line.

We are currently running the system on our in store tanks, stop by the store and see it in action.

please check us out:

www.progressivereef.com

[Patrick1]

Any Chance of Profilux working with Hydor Koralia 4 Controllable Powerheads???

[Aqua-Digital]

This is not a scheduled option at present, but with GHL you never know

[Patrick1]

Hey Michael,

I was trying to set up an auto top up for my tank. I have both the float & optical sensors set up. The problem is I can't get the pump I have to turn on when the level drops. I have it plugged in to the 6 plug digital power bar and got lost some where between the socket function page and the level sensor page?

Can you give me a break down on the step by step to get this up and running.

[JoelV]

Patrick,

I hope our conversation was helpfull. I didn't hear back from you so I assume all is well and your levels are now working.

Michael will be back next week.

Cheers

Joel.

[Patrick1]

Hey Joel,

Yes I got it sorted out. Thank you for the help. I will be in touch later this summer for another upgrade.

Patrick

[Aqua-Digital]

Joel,

Many thanks for your help and great input in my absence.

it has been a busy week and there are some big things happening with profiLux in the coming months.

But for now we are concentrating on the lanuch of the PTC enviroment controllers and are looking for beta testers for this range, all of who will receive 10% off the product and also direct line support from GHL.

Please contact Joel for more details.

[niloc16]

i need help quick. the stupid alarm feature continues to go off even though i have it selected in the controller to be off. no parameters are out of limits or anything. i got it to stop for a couple hours by unplugging the controller but now its happening again. how do i disable it or pull the speaker out of this thing.

[Tom R]

Hi Colin

There are a couple of threads on RC that deal with the problem of ALARMS.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1394820

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1379604

I do not know if either of these will help. There may be more threads discussing ALARMS out there.

The second thread may be more closely related to your problem.

Tom R

[niloc16]

thanks for that tom. i actually found that it the box for one of the tunzes that is going off intermittently. dont know what from i have to research that unless someone here knows

[Aqua-Digital]

what voltage do you have them set at in the 1-10V interface?

[niloc16]

i figured it out, the connector on the control box for the tunze was a little loose.

[zoomin]

OK, I am ashamed to admit that I cannot figure out how the level sensor kit is supposed to be installed - any pics or documentation out there?

[zoomin]

a little more searching was all I needed:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=12146235#post12146235

[Aqua-Digital]

Beat me to it.

Let me know if I can help further

[Patrick1]

OK, I am ashamed to admit that I cannot figure out how the level sensor kit is supposed to be installed - any pics or documentation out there?

Thats ok I spent a day working on my auto top off only to find out I had plugged the pump into the wrong socket. YES SMRT I mean SMART...

[niloc16]

it has been 3 times now that the last digital powerbar in the daisy chain has lost connection with the controller. the connection link led is still lit but the controller does not control anything and i have to reprogram the bar. any ideas what the heck it is?

[Todd]

One of my outlets has stopped working on my digital powerbar - it is like there is a bad connection because if I wiggle the cord in the outlet then it works. It is not the fixture that I have attached because I have tried it with other components and it is the same problem. Is there a way of fixing the powerbar so that I can have all outlets working?

I had my MH ballast plugged into the socket that is no longer working (high draw, but it never had a problem firing or with the breaker either).

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

I will ask Matthias what he thinks. Do you have series 1 or series 2 power bars?

All 15 amp sockets or 8 and 15 amp?

[JoelV]

[qoute]Ihad my MH ballast plugged into the socket that is no longer working (high draw, but it never had a problem firing or with the breaker either[qoute]

Todd,

I have heard of this problem before with Non Profilux equipment. When it comes to a high amp draw like a metal halide light, The plug heats up and cools down (Expands and contracts) more so if the plug is not seated well. Over time the metals warp and no longer connect well.
I would first try and replace your male end with that of a thicker one (Yellow replacement cord end )
the prongs are a bit thicker and may fix the problem of a a worn outlet.

[Matthias Gross]

@niloc:
sound like the transmission to the last powerbar is disturbed.
What is the control cable length between ProfiLux and powerbar (over all, including all connections)?

@Todd:
maybe only a broken fuse - please contact me or Michael directly via email

[Todd]

Do you have series 1 or series 2 power bars?
All 15 amp sockets or 8 and 15 amp?

I am not sure, I got a '6 way digital power bar' July of 07. How do I tell if it is a series 1 or 2?



I have heard of this problem before with Non Profilux equipment. When it comes to a high amp draw like a metal halide light, The plug heats up and cools down (Expands and contracts) more so if the plug is not seated well. Over time the metals warp and no longer connect well.
I would first try and replace your male end with that of a thicker one (Yellow replacement cord end )
the prongs are a bit thicker and may fix the problem of a a worn outlet.

A 'worn' outlet seems plausible - The plug on my MH is already a big thick one and I would also like to use that outlet for other equipment. Is there a way that I could replace / fix that outlet besides using bigger plugs?


@Todd:
maybe only a broken fuse

I don't think that it is a broken fuse because If I wiggle whatever is plugged into the outlet I can get it to work sometimes. Regardless, how do I check if the fuse needs replacing?

[niloc16]

i'm not sure the exact length but i'm using the connection cables that came with the units so whatever the length of each cord times 3

[Matthias Gross]

@Todd & Niloc

please contact me directly for personal support:

matthias.gross@ghl-kl.de

[Patrick1]

Silly Question. How many Tunze power heads can I control with the profilux??

[Aqua-Digital]

total of 8

:biggrin:

[Patrick1]

Ok I am planning on running a total 4 tunze 4055's. 2 on each side of the tank for that awsome wave action. I currently have the tunze line one & the tunze line 2 is there any thing else I will need ??

[Aqua-Digital]

You will require a further T1 and T2 and YL2-1 splitter

[Patrick1]

Thanks Michael,

I will call Joel this week and set up an order. On Another topic any idea on the GHL chiller prices??

[Aqua-Digital]

Yep GHL PTC prices are with dealers there is a promo on right now.

Release date first week of August, only 3 months late :(

[Patrick1]

Hi Michael,

So I have finaly picked up my tunze's. I have 4 x 4055 and I am planning on running 2 on each side of my tank. So my goal is to set up a simple left then right flow. I currently have 2 of each t1 and t2 lines. Also 2 splitters however I only have 1 free port. I assume I am going to need another splitter yet is this correct???

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

You can run these off one port for example L1L2 etc

You will need to first split the port and then split it again thus giving you four outlets.

[Patrick1]

*&#%...... I thought I had a spare splitter at home,,,, arrrrrg another order from Joel..... The shipping is more then the splitter... Well that was stupid of me...

[Patrick1]

So my profilux has a L1-2 port, L3-4, and 2 S ports. I am running my 2 power bars taking up my S ports. I am running my 2 controllable ballasts from the L1-2 port and my LED bars on the L3-4 port. My goal is to run 4 Tunze in a wave pattern.

Am I correct to assume I am a port shy?

[Aqua-Digital]

At this point i would suggest getting the EX upgrade kit, this will expand your capabilities greatly giving you L port 5-6 and also redox and salinity and level control 3 all without touching any of your 3 expansion sockets

[Patrick1]

Thanks Michael,

Your support of this Thread has been out standing. The biggest problem I seem to face is the set it and forget it. I mess with things about once every 4 months and have to re-learn a bunch of functions. So I am going to yank the LED's for the next month so I can run the Tunzes. I will contact Joel about the EX upgrade next month.

I am going to be adding a 4 pump dosing system within the year. With all the extra features now out for the system is there a risk of running out of ports?

[Aqua-Digital]

In the long term no you wont :wink: , however if you are looking at running 1001 ph probes tomorrow then you might :lol:

if looking at running the dosing station i may suggest looking into the balling method of mineral and calcium replenishment, this is the method that has revolutionised the way things are done in Europe with huge success

[Jason McK]

I just purchased a Proflux Plus II With all the toys second hand.
One question I have is:
With my Fish room already 3 years running and the power sources all over the place is it possible to use longer RS232 cables or build your own cable.
Sorry this question could have been addressed already, but I'm a total noob

J

BTW I was able to upgrade the Firmware and PC software and the WAN is working perfectly.

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

You can use the ProfiserV5 which is 5 meters long, for downloads and uploads through RS232 you must use a genuine cable due to cross over

Welcome the the ProfiLux club :)

[Jason McK]

Thanks for the Welcome, Ive been trying to get into this club for awhile :). There are a lot of fans here on Canreef.

Sorry I didn't mean the RS232 but the phone type cable is what I'm looking to extend.

[Aqua-Digital]

Argh the cable better known as VSL5, yes readily available and should be in stock with Progressive reef, you can extend up to 50'

[Jason McK]

Oh Crap I just placed an order with Progressive Reef. I guess I'll call them tomorrow to try and add to my order.

BTW I've never had replies so fast. where you waiting for me LOL

J

[Aqua-Digital]

Nope just part of th service, but now i see you run the ZeoVit system we will have to pressure you endlessly to take up the Fauna marin Ultra Lith system :)

[Jason McK]

Oh that will be a hard sell. I've been on Zeovit since before it was available in Canada.
But you can try. LOL
I'm sure I'll have many more question in the next couple of days. I actually have nothing hooked up as of yet. I've just managed to ensure the WAN is working and everything is tanking. Tonight I'll find the ultimate spot for it. Then attach the lights and probs.


J

[Aqua-Digital]

there will be a fauna thread just like this one here in a few days, so look out for it and the free samples. :lol:

[Fauna Marin]

Hi jason

I´am now also here for your questions :-)
Many greetings to canada
Claude

[Aqua-Digital]

There you go one more mark for the Fauna camp, direct access to the boss and the developer - Claude

Good to see you here Claude :)

[Jason McK]

LOL OK but I'll stick to the Proflux Questions here.

Have another one for you. I have both the digital 4 and 6 power bar. I assumed I could just plug my 3 MH Ballast into 1 of the sockets. A friend told me I should only plug them into the High AMP socket. Is this true?

[Aqua-Digital]

well no you cant plug 3 ballasts into one socket really you would be stretching the load of any power bar not just GHL

I wouls suggest if you do want to do this then yes opt for the High amp this saves you a socket and also spreads your load better.

Golden rule is knowing how many amps you are drawing on the power bar in total, which should not exceed for safety 13amps.

[Jason McK]

So if I plug each ballast into a seperate socket and had them turn on 5 minutes apart would that help spread the load of the initial start up? I run 3X Blueline E-ballast that run at 3.15AMPs

J

[Jason McK]

Sorry but to further my last post
If I plug each ballast into S1, S2, and S5 These sockets are rush protected and can handle upto 6.3AMPs. with my Ballast running at 3.15AMPs I should be fine. right?

Jason.

[niloc16]

thats right jason. just make sure they go into the in rush amp sockets. if you have them in the other ones it sometimes causes the relays to stick and you have the light stuck on

[Jason McK]

Thanks Colin

J

[Aqua-Digital]

Argh you have series one type power bars then you do need to use High amps on all sockets that are not high in rush protected.

Series 2 have all relays rated at 200amp.

Your new info is important

[niloc16]

so if we have series 1 type bars is there warranty to upgrade to series 2?

[Aqua-Digital]

?? no why would there be a warranty upgrade.

thats like saying i bought a 2006 BMW 3 series but they have brought out a new model with better features so i want my 2006 replaced with a 2008 under warranty.

Sorry maybe I read your question wrong I apologise if i have but if i read correct then no sorry..

[niloc16]

whoa cowboy, i was kidding. had to try though

[Aqua-Digital]

Trust me we get some of the most insane requests :redface:

[Patrick1]

Hey Michael,

I was wondering if you could find me a copy of the 6 plug digital powerbar instructions. I belive when I got mine it came with a sheet with some operating info on it.

[Aqua-Digital]

http://www.ghl-kl.de/Produkte/Aquaristik/Download/download.html

[Jason McK]

Is there an indecation on the power bar as to what version they are?

J

[Aqua-Digital]

Yes

the front lable of series one states what sockets are high in rush protected, the series 2 do not haver this wording as all are high in rush.

Also series one have internal fuses, series 2 dont

[Reefer Rob]

?? no why would there be a warranty upgrade.

thats like saying i bought a 2006 BMW 3 series but they have brought out a new model with better features so i want my 2006 replaced with a 2008 under warranty.

Sorry maybe I read your question wrong I apologise if i have but if i read correct then no sorry..

Hmmm... that was a little harsh.

Way back before there was an Aqua Digital, before there was a RC thread for Profilux, there was a small group of hobbyists that started using the Profilux controller in Canada. Superfudge started a thread on this board and we all got excited and jumped in, based on the excellent customer service and support being provided by Profilux... Colin was one of these people.

While the core unit of the Profilux controler has always been excellent, the power bars were clearly not ready for the 110V market. Through the frustrations and feedback of the original users, Profilux was able to develop a product that was viable for the North American market. I would hope that Matthias appreciates that.

Both my powerbars are series 2 bars that I had replaced when they were under warranty and I haven't had a problem in over a year.

Even if Colin was joking, I don't think his request was out of line at all.

[Aqua-Digital]

Hmmm I think you are reading words a little too seriously. please re read my last sentance

"Sorry maybe I read your question wrong I apologise if i have but if i read correct then no sorry.."

I stand by our statement also, no company would replace a power bar when there is nothing wrong with it just because a new model has come out, the warranty replacements that happened way back were all done due to a design issue that was addressed within the series one, and as such the series one continued to be produced for another 9 months with the newer series one design.

As it was me that originally highlighted the design issue I sort of had first hand in getting the series 1 up to speed, and took a personal interest in the design being re implemented.

the series 2 was implemented when it became clear that the demand for much higher striking load ballasts were being brought to the market and as such profiLux reacted to accomodate this as well as making the power bar more flexible to peoples long term needs, keeping up with GHL's goal of the product being as future proof as possible

But this is all going over very old ground that was covered so heavily 18 months ago or more just for the sake of one post.

The trouble with the written word in forums or email is there is no emotion so people read words and put their own tone to them, this happens time and time again and it is very difficult to get emotion across

Back to the future as they say

:wink:

[Jason McK]

Yes

the front lable of series one states what sockets are high in rush protected, the series 2 do not haver this wording as all are high in rush.

Also series one have internal fuses, series 2 dont

OK So the series 1 are what are described in the wiki site. While series 2 I would assume are all 6.3AMP all rush protected?

Thanks again
Jason

[Aqua-Digital]

No

series 2 are all 200amp YES two hundred amp high in rush protected that means that every single socket can withstand a split second high in rush current surge of up to 200amps protecting it from damage from ballasts that draw huge ampage on striking.

This does not detract from the fact that the total duration load (not striking load) must not exceed more than 15 amps in total on the whole bar, this is in line with your household ring main.

[Tom R]

No

series 2 are all 200amp YES two hundred amp high in rush protected that means that every single socket can withstand a split second high in rush current surge of up to 200amps protecting it from damage from ballasts that draw huge ampage on striking.

This does not detract from the fact that the total duration load (not striking load) must not exceed more than 15 amps in total on the whole bar, this is in line with your household ring main.

Does this eliminate the need for the Hi amp power boards?

[Aqua-Digital]

Depends on what you ahve attached to the main power bar in terms of load.

if you are running a series of high wattage MH lighting or large chillers then you are probably getting close to the maximum ampage certified to run on one socket that the whole power bar is plugged into at the wall. This is where the HIGH AMP comes into play and spreads that load across another wall socket.

This is the part so many people forget, the certified load of your wall socket, we could build power bars that have 100 sockets all able to take 20 amp load, but that does not detract from the fact you are restricted by what one single wall socket on your home ring main can handle.

So simple answer, no you dont need the High amp providing you are not exceeding the total ampage of the power bar OR your wall socket.

[Jason McK]

OK so today was the day to get it all going.
2 small problems I have encountered.
Temp probe always reads 102F This probe is the Larger Black ones
Also the Redox Calibration required a Null plug. What is this and how can I get one.

Thanks
J

[Aqua-Digital]

102F !!

Make sure you have it in the right port.

The Null plug is always supplied with the ProfiLux EX or Redox expansion always.

This was S/H right?

[Jason McK]

Yes It was second Hand. I will try and get it from the guy I purchased it from.
Could you tell me what it looks like?
Triple checked the port. It's the lower port on the board

J

[Aqua-Digital]

Best to email me at sales@aqua-digital.com

it is always hard supporting second hand units and we could be going back and forth for a while on the board.

[Jason McK]

E-mail Sent

J

[Jason McK]

Michael, Just wanted to thank you for your support on my Temperature probe issue. Spencer at Progressive Reef hooked me up with a new probe and all is right in the world now.

Thanks Again
Jason

[Aqua-Digital]

Glad to be assistance and thanks to Spenser at progressive reef in BC for helping you get up and running.

[Jason McK]

Sorry Michael, Have another one for you

I picked up a new temp probe and it has been working perfectly. Today I added the extention cable to the temp probe.
Without the extension temp was reading 79.4
I followed the extension cable instruction as per the latest operator instructions.
1)entered the extension mode without the extesion cable attached (probe was in the tank in the same spot it would be when the cable gets added)
2)press return and wait
3) controller say Change
4) add the extension cable and press return
5) wait and then save
My temp was then reading 74.2
in order to correct this I calibrated the sensor with the extension cable and the temp control returned to 79.5

Have I performed the procedure incorrectly?

Thanks
Jason

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

You need to add the cable first as you found I think from reading your thread

Hope all clear now :)

[Jason McK]

Um that is not how the instructions read.
The controller prompts you to change/add the cable

J

[Aqua-Digital]

I will ask Matthias to change it

[Jason McK]

I assume the Extension mode measures the temp and the resistance in the cable before you add the extension. Then through the mode you tell the unit you just added the extension and it measures again. then calculates the difference and increases the signal voltage to compensate.

OK, I'll wait for Matthias

Thanks

[bullit67]

Hi Michael

I have a bit of a problem I was having problems with the software on my lap top so I so I loaded up the new 4.0 version well now I cant connect to the controller it tells me I need a lower version of the software. I can not find any where to download a lower version of the software.

thanks for your time

Doug

[Aqua-Digital]

To go from 3.08 firmware to 4.0 you must do the following

Install firmware version 4.0 first

then

Install software version 4.0

Never do the other way round.

You also can not run version 4.0 software without loading the firmware either

[bullit67]

yah But I goofed and installed the software first as I was having problems with the 3.8 software I need to get the 3.8 version of the software back so I can do the upgrade but I cant find any place to download it

[Aqua-Digital]

CLICK THE CRAB :wink:

[bullit67]

Oh man I looked there and did find it but I guess I didnt look close enough because I found it now. I guess I should of put my glasses on sooner

Thanks again

Doug

[Todd]

I am having problems getting my float valves to work. I have two valves on a splitter and the computer recognizes that I have two of them (as when I disconnect them it acts differently). But I cannot get the computer to realize the float is floating (ie tank is full), it will continue to run untill I get a time out alarm.

I have tried it with only one float and no splitter, the other with no splitter, both with the splitter. Plugging one in and resetting the computer then trying - all the same result, it will not recognize when it the valve is floating (ie when to shut off the pump). I recently had one of the valves replaced under warranty (through progressive reef). Both of the valves are clean.

I also tried upgrading to Firmware 4.04 and software 4.0.3.0 hoping that would solve things, no to no avail.

Any suggestions?

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

Does it work when plugged in independantly

[Todd]

No, it recognizes that only one valve is plugged in, but it will not register that it is 'full' and switch off.

[Patrick1]

What is your delay setting time at?

[Todd]

It was 2 seconds, but I moved it to 0 seconds while I was trying them.

[Aqua-Digital]

Pop it into Spensor at PG ;)

[Todd]

Pop it into Spensor at PG ;)


The Sensors or the computer unit?

[Aqua-Digital]

The sensor ;)

[JoelV]

Todd
Bring it by we can plug into our unit and check it out and review the settings against ours

Cheers

[Todd]

Thanks Joel, I'll try to swing by on Saturday with the unit and the sensors.

[Slick Fork]

Hi there,

I've been having a bit of trouble with the switching on my profilux plus II. What happens is sometimes when I hit ESC to start the feeding pause, when the timer runs out and it turns the pumps back on I get a little bit of a flicker where everything turns off for a second and then starts right back up. Not the end of the world but it's annoying and usually scares the crap out of the fish. Sometimes it will also happen if I just pull a plug out of the socket (cleaning a powerhead) and again if I pop the plug back in. These little episodes don't happen every time, maybe 30-50% of the time.

As far as set up goes, I recieved the profilux package with the 4 way analog bar in June 2007 and the digital powerbar a short while after (a month or so I think) I'm running firmware 4.03. I have the controller on a circuit by itself with some other tank related stuff (tunze wavebox and 6055) that is NOT GFI protected, the 2 powerbars are on a GFI protected circuit. The loading of the powerbars is as follows...
Analog: 1 Tunze 6045 (8 watts) 1 Koralia 4 (9 watts), 1 Hydor Heater (400 watts)

Digital: 2x250 watt metal Halide ballasts (340 watts each according to Sanjay's website so 680 watts) 1 T5HO ballst powering 2x54 watt lamps (guessing 120 watts?), 1xQuiet one 3000 pump (40 watts), 1x Vertex skimmer (35 watts) and 1x 2 watt moonlight (2 watts)

Also, it's worth mentioning that I never feed until after the halides have turned off or before they come on.

Any ideas?

Thanks

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

this is electrical interferance probably due to a 110V line close either to the profiLux or the data lead from the digital power bar or analogue bar.

Some step by step trial and error cable moving should get rid of this. If not please email me at sales@aqua-digital.com for further direct and fast support

[Slick Fork]

Could you elaborate a little on sources of interference and ideal positioning of components relative to each other? Since the problem is intermittent, trial and error could be a very lengthy process. Especially if I don't know what exactly I'm looking for.

Thanks for the quick response!

[Aqua-Digital]

Hiya
Just keeping 110V away from the PII and PII control cables and any lighting units also

[Slick Fork]

when you reference 110v, I'm assuming you're talking about main power supplies? Sorry, I'm kind of electrically retarded. What sort of distances are too close?

Thanks

[Aqua-Digital]

email me

sales@aqua-digital.com

:wink:

[Pan]

What is the average lifespan of the probes for the Profilux?

[Slick Fork]

I've had mine (Ph and Temp) in the water since June 2007, still working fine

[Aqua-Digital]

Temp should last a very long time.

pH probes should be chaged annually, some prefer to wait until the fail. personally choice but the industry standard for "any" pH probe is 1 year

[shark bait]

I am trying to setup the PC software for the Profilux Plus II I just got....
I maybe missing a step or doing something wrong... any help would be appreciated. What I have done so far is as follows:

1) Downloaded and installed ProfiLuxControl II, Version 4.0.5.0 from http://aquariumcomputer.com/System__E_/Download/download.html.

2) Started the software and hit connect. This gave me the error message "The connected Profilux has too low firmware stand (<4.00) and can't be operated with this version or ProfiluxControl! Please use ProfiluxControl 3.0.8.1!"

3) Uninstalled version 4.0.5.0

4) Downloaded and started install of ProfiLuxControl II, Version 3.0.8.1 however the language is not English. An image of the first screen I get is attached. I have no idea how to proceed.

Since step 4 I have repeated steps 1 and two with version 4.0.4.0 as the site indicates 4.0.5.0 is Beta - I'm not sure if Beta is with reference to the Control software or the Firmware or both...None the less I got the same results as I did with Version 4.0.5.0.

Any help would be appreciated.

[Aqua-Digital]

once connected using V3.08 go to the top of the software screen on the top left you will see 3 words, click the middle one which will mean in English extras

Click on Sprache and then select Engliche

Press save and load, you may need to also exit the software afterwards

In V4.0 upwards language selection is done on install.

[shark bait]

Thanks for the quick reply ... version 4.0.4.0 is up and running.

[Aqua-Digital]

when you get the SMS unit ( ;) ) you can then upgrade to V4.05 :mrgreen:

[Todd]

I remember reading that the doser will spread out all of the doses as much as possible, however I cant find this now. I just started dosing, and will be dosing Ca, Mg and Alkalinity, but I dont want them to be dosed at the same time. If this is not done automatically, is there a way around this besides operating the pumps as sockets and putting them on timers?

[24storm]

Once you program the doser to dose the amount you want and how many times per day it spreads it out over the whole day and only pump goes at a time. I just one up 2 weeks ago and was wondering the same thing.

[Aqua-Digital]

Yes this is correct.

You have two options

1. Auto, this will as explained above seperate the dosing across a 24 hour period to stop any over lap.

2. Manual, In this mode you set the time of day you wish the dose to take place.

[Todd]

I am having a few problems with L1/L2, L3/L4. I had my Dimmable ballast and Tunze split on one port, this resulted in my ballast 'jumping' outputs along with the tunze, it would still dim and turn off correctly. I tried to put my LED bars together with the tunze on a splitter, but when I program them the LED bars take up two ports in the programing (one for blue lights, one for red).

Is this a hardware problem? How can this be resolved

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

I am not sure what you mean by "jump outputs" but you can not run Tunze and LED on the same port pair.

It is also advisable to keep dimmable lighting on a seperate port as depending on how you have wired it the ballast can use both ports.

[Todd]

Hi

I am not sure what you mean by "jump outputs" but you can not run Tunze and LED on the same port pair.

It is also advisable to keep dimmable lighting on a seperate port as depending on how you have wired it the ballast can use both ports.

So even though I only have three devices I can only run two devices on four ports?

By jumping I mean this: The dimmable ballast runs correctly when it is on L1/L2 by itselft, but when I split the port using a splitter and put a tunze on the other port, the ballast changes outputs with the tunze, but still switches on and off correctly.

[Aqua-Digital]

Dimmable ballasts will use two ports as they are dual mode and can be dimmed independantly, however you can wire them together.

LED sticks and spots use two ports as they are dual channel.

Tunze use one port each.

Do not mix and match tunze with dimmable always have running on sperate ports i.e dimmable on L1L2 and Tunze on L3L4

if you are out of ports you can use the PLM-4L card.

[Todd]

Dimmable ballasts will use two ports as they are dual mode and can be dimmed independantly, however you can wire them together.

LED sticks and spots use two ports as they are dual channel.

Tunze use one port each.

Do not mix and match tunze with dimmable always have running on sperate ports i.e dimmable on L1L2 and Tunze on L3L4

if you are out of ports you can use the PLM-4L card.

Thanks for your help quick replys as always! I was having alot of problems getting trying to get it to work. I am disapointed that I cant do this with my current configuration, I'll look into the expansion card.

[bullit67]

Ok i know this has been asked befor but I moved my sump down to the basement I now need to move the the controller down stairs BUT I need to have power bars upstairs for my lights can I use a standard rj11 phone cable to make the longer run if so how long of a run can I make if not how long of a cable can I get for the porfilux.

Thanks
Doug

[Aqua-Digital]

VSL-5 cable can be dasiy chained to 50'

[Gordon H]

I have a Profilux II Plus controller and I want to mount it on a wall. At one time I understood that Profilux was going to make one -then they decided against it. If anyone else has mounted it on a wall, can they tell me how they did it?

Thanks in advance,
Gord.

[Tom R]

Hi Gordon

I have seen a small shelf made with L brackets. The shelving material pulled forward about an inch and a half from the wall for plugs and connection cords to come off the back of the ProfLux and fall toward the floor. I have installed mine on top of a small cabinet that is pulled away from the wall about the same distance as the shelf described above.

Tom R

[Gordon H]

Hey Tom,

Thanks for you reply. That sounds like a great solution for mounting horizontally. I am trying to mount mine with the bottom flat against the wall so that the display is pointing up toward the ceiling and the cords are pointing down toward the ground. Any thoughts?

Cheers,
Gord.

[Patrick1]

Hey Michael,

I spoke with you last week Any luck tracking down 3.08 firmware?? or can I just skip this step? I spent some time on the phone last week with Progressive reef but we couldn't get a few things figured out. I was thinking in the next couple of weeks I would try to set up a time to get you on the phone and sort out these things. No rush as I am sure your busy passing out cigars and hope you havent used the term "up the duff"..

Pm me when you get some free time and we'll get this up and running.

[Aqua-Digital]

Go straight to 4.04. firmware first followed by software

Phone support is as good as a chocolate tea pot! Time I have gone through everything, the client rarely remembers the first thing I said.

To this respect i only do email support, so email me what you wish to go through i can then give you step by step printable instructions :)

[Patrick1]

Ok I will get the upgrades done this week. I will then give you a complete list of everything I am running and how I want it set up. I will need you to send me your email address as my computer doesnt like your website contact for some reason. You know that has to be the first time I have every heard some one use the term "chocolate tea pot!"

Catch you next week

[Aqua-Digital]

British terminology!

sales@aqua-digital.com

Whole list :redface: Hope I am not expected to completely set up your whole controller :surprise:

I will do what i can from over here in the far East of canada ;)

[Funky_Fish14]

The software to operate the controller is simply available online and is free, correct?

This controller looks fantastic... its the first one to really grab my attention, the dosing pumps (8 of them needed) are my primary interest, but I must get the controller to run them as it has all the great options!

Pardon my ignorance, but how long have the controllers been around? It must have been, at least a couple years already?

*Edit - Progressive Reef also appears to be the only Western Can. retailer that actually has the controllers on their website?

Thanks!

Chris

[Aqua-Digital]

Hi

Yes the software is free for life :)

GHL have been around for 15 years and the first ever model was designed and brought to the market in 2002 since then it has been developed continually into what it is today and continues to be developed further this year to a much higher level which all users will benefit from.

Progressive Reef are the largest supplier on the west coast yes, but not the only supplier. You can be assured of them having what you want in stock.

Hope that helps