Coralife Aqualight Pro mod

[mseepman]

So last night, I finally started my modification to my 36" Aqualight Pro. I say "started" because I only finished half the job in the time I expected to complete it all. I will be finishing the rest of it this weekend and providing lots of pics.

Anyways, here's the background on the mod. I have an Oceanic 70G tall tank. Like many new reefers, I got into the hobby by taking the best advice from my local LFS, which included buying whatever they had in stock. That included a 36" 150W MH Aqualight Pro. Because my tank is 24" high, it seems that my current lighting could just never give the coverage that I needed it to, especially at the bottom of the tank. Not to mention, the Coralife PC's Actinic supplementation was pathetic. I've tried different bulbs and it was my last bulb change that pushed me into this modification.

In order to improve PAR, I recently put in a new Ushio 10k bulb, but the lighting it gave me was really too yellow for my liking. See pic...

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/Tank_10k_pc.JPG

To fix this I purchased 4 of the 36" sunblaster T5HO strip lights. They come with 6700k bulbs so I also picked up 4 additional bulbs from Hidden Reef. 1 Fiji Purple, 1 AquaBlue+, 2 50000k in the hopes of putting color back into my tank.

Taking apart the fixture is actually very easy. In the end, it was a good thing that I decided to do this mod as I found one of the original connectors in the light for my PC's completely burned up and probably a real fire hazard. Unfortunately, my camera died before I even got my first picture taken, but since I only did half the fixture so far, I will correct that when I take it apart again on Saturday to finish the job. I promise to document each step in case someone else would like to replicate this.

To say the least, here is a picture with just the front PC bay containing two T5HO 39W lights now. Notice that when you look at the fixture, you can see light along the entire reflector versus the back compartment where only the 22" PC bulb exists still.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/Tank_T5_1PC.JPG

Right now, I'm using the Fiji Purple and one 50000k bulb in that first compartment. I'm already impressed with the huge difference in lighting.

Let me know what you think. Again I promise to really document the mod so that you can see all the steps that I've taken once the weekend roles around.

[Interior_Reef]

Hey mark,

If your allowed to play one day, perhaps you would like to come over and attept (help) me do the same thing to my 6ft Coralife. i have been contemplating swappin the PCs for T5s. was gonna do 8 39Ws i think.

your like looks phenominal for color.!!!

[mseepman]

Wait until the weekend when you see how it wasn't all that hard. 8 lights the way that I'm doing it would be pretty expensive though. I'm using the Sunblasters and their ballasts. You might be better off using the original coralife ballasts to run t5 caps. I just couldn't do that because I wanted 4 x 39w which was 156w while the ballast could only run 2 x 65 (130w).

[Okguy]

Wow Mark, that's a huge difference. Congratulations!

If we can make it work I would like to come by and check it out this weekend and pick up the extra bulb too :mrgreen:. I know I told you I didn't think I would try the mod that way but after seeing just the first row, I'm second guessing myself.

Have you noticed any difference in the temperature of the unit?

[mseepman]

By temp of the unit, do you mean the fixture or the water?

[Okguy]

By temp of the unit, do you mean the fixture or the water?

I guess both... Is there a noticeable difference in unit temperature? If so has it affected the water temperature?

Controlling heat is a big issue with my tank.

Thanks

[mseepman]

I was planning to watch the unit's temp quite closely anyways, since I now have ballasts running along a thin wall beside the MH reflector. I don't think they will get too hot but you never know.

As for the water temp. I've had a cheap coralife thermometer for ages and I don't trust it at all. I just got a new pinpoint wireless thermometer this week and once I have batteries for it, I'll let you know how the tank temp varies. If I do trust the coralife, then my tank is always too cold at 73 degrees 95% of the time. Sometimes in the middle of my lighting cycle, it will get to 73.7 degrees. My heater (an ebo jager) is set to have a 78 degree temp and it doesn't run all the time so that's why the new equipment was purchased.

[Okguy]

Hi Chris, Chin Lee was talking about doing this mod by swapping out the end caps. I've had the same idea but am not too electrically inclined so I've been waiting for a good step by step instruction before trying it. My idea was to use 4 24" T5's as the Coralife ballast can't drive 4 36" T5's.

I even drew a pretty picture to show Mark in hopes he was better at electrical tinkering than I am. I'll throw it on here incase someone with more skills than I have wants to upgrade their Aqualight and write me a step by step manual :mrgreen

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc72/Okguys_tank/light.jpg

I just dawned on me. I'm not really good with drawing pictures either :lol:



Hey mark,

If your allowed to play one day, perhaps you would like to come over and attept (help) me do the same thing to my 6ft Coralife. i have been contemplating swappin the PCs for T5s. was gonna do 8 39Ws i think.

your like looks phenominal for color.!!!

Wait until the weekend when you see how it wasn't all that hard. 8 lights the way that I'm doing it would be pretty expensive though. I'm using the Sunblasters and their ballasts. You might be better off using the original coralife ballasts to run t5 caps. I just couldn't do that because I wanted 4 x 39w which was 156w while the ballast could only run 2 x 65 (130w).

[mseepman]

Now Kevin,

You shouldn't be too hard on yourself. I saw your pic of your fuge and so I downloaded google sketch...yikes, that's not easy to use!


I just dawned on me. I'm not really good with drawing pictures either :lol:

[mseepman]

Okay, so I finished the rest of the modification on my Aqualight pro on the weekend.

Now I've seen lots of mod threads before and no matter how much you document, it's hard to explain it all. I've taken a lot of photos, but please let me know if you have a question and I'll help if I can.

Here's a shot of the full light with only half the modification done. You can see how the PC bulbs would provide less coverage.
http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/bulb_comparison.JPG

Here is what we start with at the PC endcap. Notice the grommet that allows the quick-connect to come through...the needs to come out.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/pc_endcap.JPG

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/modding_the_reflector.JPG

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/modding_the_reflector2.JPG

Unfortunately, that leaves you with a hole larger than you want for your T5 endcap, and it means the bulbs beside it needs to be cut just as far in. Because this cut is so far into the reflector, your T5's are slightly to one side of the light (by about 3/4" total)

When you cut the reflector material back, you bend it behind the reflector so as to add a little strength to that area.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/reflector_trimming2.JPG

You will trim the reflector at both ends for both bulbs. The opposite end from the grommet end will only be cut enough into the reflector to fit the T5 endcap.

Now you have to drill out the PC bulb clips so that you go from this:

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/pc_clips.JPG

to this:

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/clip_drilled_out.JPG

Now you need to prepare the replacement T5HO light. I used the Sunblaster T5HO strip light.
http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/the_replacements.JPG

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/sunblaster1.JPG

They endcaps come off to look like this:
http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/sunblaster_apart.JPG

The top of the endcap snaps out (attached with 2 red wires) and you need to cut the power leads. It's important that you do this only at the end of the light that receives power. (I say this because this T5 strip light is able to daisy chain and the opposite end gives power to the next fixture rather than receiving it.) Make sure you leave as much wire as you can with the endcap so that there is room to put in Mar-connectors. If you are wondering why use connectors rather than solder and heat shrink tubing? My understanding from electricians is that you shouldn't solder 120V wiring as it can heat up and melt the solder. Besides, mar-connectors are easy.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/sunblaster_wiring.JPG

Next you pull the opposite endcap out and after stuffing the top part of the endcap (part with red wires from the end you cut) into the metal housing, you can pull the entire ballast out the opposite end.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/sunblaster_apart2.JPG

You'll notice that the Sunblaster has a plastic body around the ballast. This makes for a tight fit into the Aqualight, but it also makes it easy to work with.

Next you need to strip the power wires.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/wire_trimming.JPG

Next, you dry fit the endcaps into the notches you cut into the reflector and make sure that the distance is right to properly insert the bulb. This works better if you have an extra set of hands.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/fitting_the_SB.JPG

After you determine that you've got the distances right, you glue in the end-caps. I used a hot-gun. It worked really well, especially because it dries so quickly.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/mounting_the_SB_endcaps.JPG

[Myka]

When we talked, I thought all you were doing was replacing the 150w ballast with a 250w ballast. That's why I was so uninterested. LOL! What you're doing with the T5s is kinda cool though, but wouldn't it cost you less to sell the Coralife unit, and buy a new unit? Would you mind sharing a price breakdown? :D

[mseepman]

After you've done that at both ends, I also glued in the ballast. Now this can be tricky because if you choose the wrong spot on the reflector, it won't fit in the fixture. Fortunately, hot-gun glue can be stripped away fairly easily if you get it wrong.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/mounting_the_SB_ballast.JPG

Repeat the above steps with the 2nd strip light so that both are side by side. Make sure that you have the "cut" end at the same side of the reflector so that wiring is easier.

So now you need to re-wire the power together. I decided that rather than running new power cords out the Aqualight, I would splice into their power cord so that my switch still worked. So that you know, it's the center of the three power cords coming out the back. You will also need to break off or pop out the grommet holding that power cord at the back, otherwise you will not have enough wire to work with.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/wiring1.JPG

When you do this, you will need some extra wire to work with. Try to make it stranded as solid core wire is hard to twist and mar. Make sure you keep track of which color you used for white and black. I couldn't find white and black laying around so I used blue and brown. If you want to use the switch on the aqualight, then you will need to include it in wire twist you mar along with the wiring from the power cord out the back of the fixture. Unfortunately, I forgot to snap a few shots while I did this (my hands were full)

To do this wiring, you need to lay the reflector on-top of where it will eventually snap down into.

If you can make your extension wires long enough, then you can pull most of the mar-connections into the area where the coralife ballast is (thus making the fitting of the reflector much easier.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/wiring2.JPG

At this point you need to fit the reflector back into the fixture. This is not easy...expect to be working at it a while, especially if you didn't get the angle of the ballasts you glue on correct. I did experience a small fold in the reflector on one side that I couldn't get out because it was pressed against one of my mar-connectors. I don't see it affecting how the light works though.

Here is a shot of the reflector ends in place.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/sb_in_place.JPG

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/endcaps_in_place.JPG

Again, you will notice that they are more to one side than the other.

Here is a shot of the end of the fixture once they are all in place.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/endcap_shot.JPG

And here they are lit up.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/litup.JPG

Last but not least, here they are on the tank.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/medium/endresult.JPG

I hope that helps some people with deciding whether they want to try this mod. I am really happy with the change. As for coloring, that is simply a factor of the bulbs I have in, but at least with this setup, I can change the coloring a lot more easily.

[mseepman]

Myka,

At first, I really considered replacing my fixture entirely too. But the only lights cheap enough were the Odyssea out of the US and I would have to spend money replacing their poor ballasts on top of the their purchase price.

Since I bought this light originally in the Okanagan, I was already into it for far more than it sells at the coast. J&L sells it for $530 now but I'm into it for about $700 from AJ's from 2 years ago.

So here's a breakdown on the mod pricing:
4 Sunblaster strip lights $130 plus tax
4 T5HO bulbs of my choice: $87 plus tax
Wiring and mar-connectors: $2.50 plus tax
Total cost: $248 including taxes.

Since my PC bulbs were due for replacement they would have been $70 plus tax at J&L, so I see my real costs as being about $170 plus my time, but I get the ability to mix my lighting up a bit and a lot more PAR.

[StirCrazy]

good, job, the only thing I would have done different is used solid wire for your marette connectors as that what they are designed for and stranded will work loose over time.

you could use a smaller bell shaped crimp connector if you have it apart again as these would give you more room as they are about 1/2 the dia of the marette connectors you used. you can get them from car stereo installers or suppliers along that line.

Steve

[mseepman]

I agree with you Steve, but the only thing that made me change my mind on them was that Coralife used them originally and some of them were burned right through and melted when I opened it up the first time. That alarmed me, so I thought I would use marettes instead.

[Myka]

Since I bought this light originally in the Okanagan, I was already into it for far more than it sells at the coast.

That's what I was thinking. It's really quite a spiffy little unit you've put together. I'd like to see a PAR meter under it. :D

Thanks for the price breakdown.

[StirCrazy]

I agree with you Steve, but the only thing that made me change my mind on them was that Coralife used them originally and some of them were burned right through and melted when I opened it up the first time. That alarmed me, so I thought I would use marettes instead.

ahh, thats what you were talking about being burnt.

I have been looking for the extrusions they use to make these light fixtures so I can make my own setup, but they are hard to find.. I guess getting a old unit and breathing new life into it is an option now that I see some one else has done it :mrgreen:

Steve

[Reverend Reefer]

Myka,

At first, I really considered replacing my fixture entirely too. But the only lights cheap enough were the Odyssea out of the US and I would have to spend money replacing their poor ballasts on top of the their purchase price.

Since I bought this light originally in the Okanagan, I was already into it for far more than it sells at the coast. J&L sells it for $530 now but I'm into it for about $700 from AJ's from 2 years ago.

So here's a breakdown on the mod pricing:
4 Sunblaster strip lights $130 plus tax
4 T5HO bulbs of my choice: $87 plus tax
Wiring and mar-connectors: $2.50 plus tax
Total cost: $248 including taxes.

Since my PC bulbs were due for replacement they would have been $70 plus tax at J&L, so I see my real costs as being about $170 plus my time, but I get the ability to mix my lighting up a bit and a lot more PAR.

hi! i joined just so i could post on this!

thank you so much for the diy mod instructions. i have a coralife aqualight lunar deluxe model, 48" PC lights and so i decided to mod one set of the light fixture to T5s as per your instructions. i found some of those sunblaster T5HO single strip fixtures from a local hydoponics shop, which they sold for 49$ (the 48" ones are 54W). i bought some 54W T5HO bulbs at LFS for 20$ each.

everything worked out great except for two things....
there were two main differences.

1. the sunblasters i got had an off/off switch so i ended up with less wiring than expected cuz i had to cut closer to the ballast. this was fine once i figured i needed to add alot more wire than expected.

2. i used the hot glue gun to glue the end plugs to the coralife reflector as per your instructions. UNFORTUNATELY, once the lights came on, everything got hot and the glue ended up melting away!

so as a mod on your mod, i would recommend not using the hot glue gun. thanks for the idea tho, corals are much more vibrant looking and it didn't cost me an arm and a leg for the upgrade!

[Reverend Reefer]

ahh, thats what you were talking about being burnt.

I have been looking for the extrusions they use to make these light fixtures so I can make my own setup, but they are hard to find.. I guess getting a old unit and breathing new life into it is an option now that I see some one else has done it :mrgreen:

Steve

if yer looking for those sunblaster fixtures, try a hydroponics shop. they will sell them for less cuz they market to hippies who have no money while local fish stores market to people with cash, hence the price discrepancy!