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ElGuappo
02-27-2008, 05:51 PM
How do i get rid of it ? will my seahare take care of it? have pics of my algae on my link the torch coral algae shot is a decent shot of the red slime.

Phanman
02-27-2008, 06:43 PM
could use chemiclean. Just be careful thou...

http://www.marvelousproducts.com/Chemiclean-Red-Slime-Algae-Remover-p/chemiclean.htm

digital-audiophile
02-27-2008, 06:46 PM
I've used chemiclean in the past and it works.. but the slime just comes back.. I think you are just temporarily getting rid of the algae but not getting to the bottom of the thing that is causing the slime.

Now I haven't tried this myself but I've ben told and have read that the zeo coral snow works really well for red slime. You don't have to be running zeo to use it either. http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/store_pages/product-info.php?product_ID=zv-csnow02

ElGuappo
02-27-2008, 07:02 PM
I am going to be moving soon and was thinking of staring over on this tank and setting up a temp tank for a monthe while i replace the rock . would i need a hospital / temp tank for my LS. all i really want to due is when i move is to tak a night and scrape the algae and replace the rock with new rock.

Toxik
02-27-2008, 07:30 PM
I used chemiclean once and it wipped out all my corals. The tank has had it once since then and what I did to eliminate it was increase the flow in the tank and am now using phos loc to keep my phosphates down. The tank has been free of cyano for 2 years now.

a4twenty
02-27-2008, 09:27 PM
the best way to deal with cyano is to treat the source of the problem and not the symptoms. by increasing flow and removing any source of phosphates the cyano will stop coming back when you siphon it out.

HTH

ElGuappo
02-27-2008, 09:29 PM
I was thinking flow was an issue i have a RSM tank and i dont like the way the power heads are set up ive been thinking of a nano koriaela for blowing on my rock face as the pumps blow into the glass and disipate.

My phosphat as of monday was < .25 decent?

a4twenty
02-27-2008, 09:42 PM
I was thinking flow was an issue i have a RSM tank and i dont like the way the power heads are set up ive been thinking of a nano koriaela for blowing on my rock face as the pumps blow into the glass and disipate.

My phosphat as of monday was < .25 decent?

thats more than enough phosphate to grow algae, the recommended level for a reef tank is less than .03ppm.

cyano uses CO2 to grow so by increasing the flow you will bring oxygen rich water to the area, slowing the growth. combine that with the reduced phosphates and the bacteria has no more fuel to grow. so when you siphon the cyano off the rock during water changes it will not come back :biggrin:

ElGuappo
02-27-2008, 09:54 PM
aside from water changes whats a good way to drop phosphate ?

Okguy
02-27-2008, 10:18 PM
Stop using tap water. That is probably the main source of your problems. Also remember your tank is only 6 months old and is still reaching an equilibrium. Algae outbreaks are common during the phase. Patience is the key.

HTH

a4twenty
02-27-2008, 10:22 PM
you can lower phosphates by grown chaeto in a refugium or running a phosphate absorbing media in a sock or preferably a reactor. but this treating the symptom and not the problem, you need to find the source to be successful or you will always be trying to get rid of them.

are you using RODI?
what and how much do you feed?

ElGuappo
02-27-2008, 10:29 PM
i am sure im overfeeding. i have recently started to try and get fish to make the adjustments to pellets but its not going so well. bass wont touch them neither will jawfish. my tank is a red sea max i really dont have room for any add ons. there is a hole for plumbing on the back but i have no idea how to plumb a sump.

a4twenty
02-27-2008, 11:43 PM
are you using tap water? or RODI?

andresont
02-28-2008, 02:22 AM
On top of all of the above mentioned you can also try and use ZeoSnow 1ml per 25Gal mixed with Zeobak 1 drop per 25 gal.
You can reed about it in Zeo guide in ZeoSnow section.

ElGuappo
02-28-2008, 04:27 AM
been using tap water. usally mixed weeks in advance. if i use RO or DI what extra steps deos that require? is store bought (Culligan) good enough?

Toxik
02-28-2008, 04:54 AM
There are no extra steps in mixing the water using RO/DI. I bought a unit from Ocean Aquatics and it works great. It's fairly inexpensive compared to a lot of other units but does a great job.

http://oceanaquatics.com/store/product/1892/Aquasafe-Maximus-100-GPD/

ElGuappo
02-28-2008, 05:03 AM
is there media to be replaced with that unit? my tank is only 34 gallons is this worth it? what is the cost of the media monthly? do you have any pics of this unit how big is it ? would it fit in a small cabinet?

a4twenty
02-28-2008, 11:56 AM
been using tap water. usally mixed weeks in advance. if i use RO or DI what extra steps deos that require? is store bought (Culligan) good enough?

that is more than likely it. Culligan water is probably only RO and not good enough but a TDS test would tell for sure.


is there media to be replaced with that unit? my tank is only 34 gallons is this worth it? what is the cost of the media monthly? do you have any pics of this unit how big is it ? would it fit in a small cabinet?


yes there are pre-filters ( usually 2 ) to be changed every 6 months ( ~$10 - $20 ea ), the DI resin every ~6 months ( but you test for this, ~$30 - $40 ) and the membrane every 2 - 3 years ( ~ $100 - $150 ). it probably would fit in a small cabinet but it needs a water source to work, so you could keep it in the laundry room or somewhere else convenient.

if you you don't want to buy a unit, i am sure your LFS sells RODI water and with only a 34G you could bring home 5G - 10G every other week for top up and water changes. another option is distilled water but you have to make sure it has not been re-mineralized.

HTH :biggrin:

Reefer Rob
02-28-2008, 02:38 PM
Quick fix for cyano: leave your lights off for 2 or 3 days, depending on what corals you have. Long term fix: Google :mrgreen:

ElGuappo
02-28-2008, 03:35 PM
i only have a green torch coral and a bubblue corral ath torch has done fine in the dark before but im insure ir the bubble will. i8 have set my light to only be 4 hours right now.

Reefer Rob
02-28-2008, 03:52 PM
You'll have no problem with a 3 day blackout. I did 2 days with my SPS tank with no problem. When you re-start your lights start with 1/2 time and slowly work back up. All your cyano will be gone...for now

I wouldn't worry about cyano too much if your tank is only 6 months old. The only thing I know for sure about cyano is that it takes advantage of change in your tank- good or bad. In the first six months your tank is a constant state of change!

My tank is as clean as you can get without run something like Zeovit, I have 60X flow, and I'll still get the occasional patch of cyano, it's no big deal. It usually means a snail has died or something, LOL and the place it grows best is in the high flow areas.

ElGuappo
02-28-2008, 06:02 PM
my true perks jawfish tobacco bass and rusty angel and chromis will be ok in a black out ? shold i stll suppliment Strontium calgcium and iodide? not worried about inverts they hide in the dark all day anyway.

Thanks

Reefer Rob
02-28-2008, 07:15 PM
3 days without food is no big deal for fish, otherwise do everything else you normally do. Ca, Kh, Mg supplementation carries on.

ElGuappo
02-28-2008, 07:18 PM
well i will black out starting tommorrow.

Reefer Rob
02-28-2008, 07:35 PM
Here's (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1078532) the RC thread of the month with all the info. You can read it while you're not looking at your tank, you'll need that long :smile:

ElGuappo
02-28-2008, 07:51 PM
is this hooked up to the tank or ist it used whn filling and hooked up between water source and tank?


that is more than likely it. Culligan water is probably only RO and not good enough but a TDS test would tell for sure.





yes there are pre-filters ( usually 2 ) to be changed every 6 months ( ~$10 - $20 ea ), the DI resin every ~6 months ( but you test for this, ~$30 - $40 ) and the membrane every 2 - 3 years ( ~ $100 - $150 ). it probably would fit in a small cabinet but it needs a water source to work, so you could keep it in the laundry room or somewhere else convenient.

if you you don't want to buy a unit, i am sure your LFS sells RODI water and with only a 34G you could bring home 5G - 10G every other week for top up and water changes. another option is distilled water but you have to make sure it has not been re-mineralized.

HTH :biggrin:

ElGuappo
02-28-2008, 08:17 PM
Thanks this is a great link.


Here's (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1078532) the RC thread of the month with all the info. You can read it while you're not looking at your tank, you'll need that long :smile:

banditpowdercoat
04-04-2008, 07:37 AM
To add my story,

Well, couple days ago I had a breakout of Cyano. Took over the entire sand in 2 days. I am now on 32 hrs of lights out, with more skimming, and the sand is just about clean again. Amazed at how fast it grows, and disperses.

I went from 2 T5 no reflectors to a 4 tube TEK light, and added 3 fish at the same time. The added light and bioload I think is what kickstarted the Cyano. 2 more days and rock/sand should be nice and pretty again