Soldering PC lights

[Nevin]

I got a good deal on some PC lights, but somehow ended up with square-pin rather than straight....

I know I could buy new endcaps (and would if anyone could tell me where to get some much cheaper than the fancy $15 ones at JL). Since I need to build a low-budget hood anyway, it occurs to me that I could just solder wires directly onto the pins and cover with a blob of silicone. When they burn out I'll just chop them off and resolder. Anyone know how I can identify which wire goes to which pin?

Also, any opinions on the advisability of doing it this way, alternate methods, sources of cheap endcaps, etc. would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nevin

[IceTurf]

Volt Meter, or other tester such as simple led test, put some current through it, take a really small LED or something which when electricity passes through it you get an obvious result, then put it between the different leads.

[Nevin]

I forgot to mention that I'll be running two lights on each ballast. Should I connect in series or parallel?

Thanks,
Nevin

[IceTurf]

I don't want to blow your bulbs here so i'll give you a possible answer: Parrellel because then both lights are given the same amount of voltage, but series will divide the volated=between leads

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Series_and_parallel_circuits

http://physics.ucsc.edu/lecturedemonstrations/e_m/i_v.html

Both good websites to check out, the second one is a simple example of electricity flow between the two dif types of circuits, currently I forget which is best for this application, sorry.

[mark]

I would get the proper end caps.

Look here (http://www.fulham.com/Find_Process.php) for some diagrams

[Nevin]

Thanks Iceturf and Mark for the advice. I also found some useful information at www.thekrib.com. The wiring was actually very simple as I was able to keep the existing biocube wiring minus the endcaps. I'm attaching a few pictures of my project and the solder-and-silicone "endcaps" in case anyone is contemplating doing something similar.

It works nicely at a very low cost--I'm not sure how low as I had the biocube ballast and guts and most of the wood on hand already. I have a few years' supply of square-pin 6700K bulbs on hand as well (Champion lighting clearance at $3 each = $9 after shipping and exorbitant UPS broker fees).

I can't recommend doing this to anyone who isn't comfortable working with electricity. I'll be building another one, freeing up the "good" lights for my first (nano) reef tank in the not-so-distant future.

Regards,
Nevin

[IceTurf]

looks pretty good, gl and may your tank do well

[Bryan]

I have been soldering the wire leads from my IceCap 660 to VHO's for years. I was not happy with some of the threads I saw on RC which showed endcaps damaged by arcing and burning, next step to a fire in the hood. With soldering, if done right you get a solid connection. Don't use silicone, but use some heat shrink tubing to cover the connections.