Fulham questions

[Delphinus]

Just looking at all the different Workhorse (http://www.fulham.com/wh.html) models .... I'm a little confused here. What's the difference between a WH2 and a WH22; a WH3 and a WH33; and, a WH7 and a WH8?

[Tau2301]

Looks like the diff is the maximum rated current.

[Bob I]

That's all I can spot. The 22 has .8 amp lower maximum current than the WH2. Similar differences between the 3 an 33. You would have to print out the spec sheets, and look at them side by side to be really sure.

[Delphinus]

Isn't "Watts" (or more rather "power") just current, times voltage? Or some such. So if volts are 110, or 120, or whatever it is out the wall, and one is rated X current draw, and one is Y current draw, and X > Y, then how can the two ballasts have the same wattage rating? Like for the WH7 and the WH8, they can't both be 220W, one must be more like 215W and one more like 218W.

Or am I completely out in left field here?

...

Oh, on a point of interest, I got this email from Fulham today regarding the availability of ballasts for 175W metal halide, and ballasts for 250W metal halide ("HighHorse" model line ballasts):


From: "INFO AT FULHAM" < INFO@fulham.com >
To: "Tony Slotboom" < entacmea@hotmail.com >
Subject: RE: Availability of HighHorse ballasts (175W/250W MH)


Tony - these are not yet available. I believe we will have an offering
sometime this summer.

Thanks!


I wait with baited breath... summer seems so long away .... oh well.

[Canadian Man]

That would be awsome.
Hey Tony, I assume that you know that BRITE LITE in calgary carries the horsey ballast's that are the topic of this post?

[Delphinus]

Haven't bought any from them, but had noticed that a BriteLite over in Ontatio is listed on the Fulham site as one of their distributors, and I figured if one franchise has it then likely possible another one would too?

I've bought other goodies from BriteLite in the past ... when I had more reliance on fluorescents I got my 7500K NO tubes from them. Nice bulbs actually, always wondered how they'd do overdriven (they're T15's though ... the fat fluorescents, not the thin ones).

[Canadian Man]

Yea Kim was in there and he told me they stock the workhorse ballast's.
on and super cheep daylight compact flourescents.

[Bob I]

Or am I completely out in left field here?


The short answer is yes. It looks like you are comparing apples and oranges. I want to try and explain, but when I try, I confuse myself. Maybe our engineer friends will jump in with the formulas. :D

[Bob I]

Yea Kim was in there and he told me they stock the workhorse ballast's.
on and super cheep daylight compact flourescents.

Did Kim say in what wattages? I use both 13W, and 32W CF lamps on my new 20G high Mini Reef. That comes to 90W of Power compact fluorescent light. Using the NO fluorescent formula that comes to 4.5 WPG. But factoring in the fact that CF's have twice the lumens per watt, we really have close to 10WPG. IOW, it is nice and bright.

[Tau2301]

55 watt, 6400K, straight pin(4) for $16.00, sockets $3.00 ea.

also a 13w 6400K, I think the price was about $7.00

They stock the Workhorse 5&7, $45 & $60 respectively

Terry, the person I always deal with, is willing to bring in special lamps, but you usually have to buy a case - what ever a case is for that item, the Qty varies.

Might be an idea for another group purchase.

I was think of taking out two of my 2x OD NOs and replacing them with 4 - 55 watt bulbs.


Disclaimer: all prices are approximate, GST not included. Subject to change without notice.

[Bob I]

I was think of taking out two of my 2x OD NOs and replacing them with 4 - 55 watt bulbs.

That sounds like an excellent plan. The reason being is that I have been having some unconfirmed misgivings about that overdriving business. Originally I believe the whole idea called for ELECTRONIC ballasts. Most of the ballasts I saw used here were at best Hybrids. IOW they were just tar ballasts with SOME electronic components like a capacitor to provide starting kick. I may be wrong, but I suspect you were not getting the amount of light you thought you were getting. At least any of the setups I saw were not as bright as I expected.

[rossb]

ouch...this is going to hurt...turning on my brain

Isn't "Watts" (or more rather "power") just current, times voltage? Or some such.
This is correct. I had a long explanation of the differneces between rapid start, instant start and program start..but after consideration..and not wanting to bore everyone to death I think it is likely as simple as the type of bulb you expect to power with them ... T12 versus T8.

I recently discovered first hand the T8's need more power to start and to operate than the T12's

IMO.

[Delphinus]

Really. Wow, and I thought the push for T8 was all supposed to be "green" and less energy consumption and all that. Or is it just that the T8's have less Mercury or something then (which of course would be a good reason)

[StirCrazy]

the bigest thing is a 32 watt T8 has the same light out put as a 40 watt T12.

so they are saving you 8 watts


Steve

[Tau2301]

Originally I believe the whole idea called for ELECTRONIC ballasts. Most of the ballasts I saw used here were at best Hybrids.

I had questioned the quality of the ballasts purchased at Home Depot. They did not seem to give off the same amount of light that my Advance ballasts did.

I have the Advance REL-4P32-SC that Burnabyreefer had said to use in his original thread on overdriving. I believe these are true electronic ballasts. I am running both T12 and T8 bulbs, but not mixing them on the same ballast.

I am currently (not a pun) running at 2X so I have 2 bulbs per ballast. So by removing one ballast and two bulbs I figure I could add one Workhorse 7 and 4 55W CFL in their place.

[AJ_77]

So by removing one ballast and two bulbs I figure I could add one Workhorse 7 and 4 55W CFL in their place.
If you could get a quote on the GE 9325K 55W PC bulbs, I would be interested in that, Kim. I believe the UPC is 043 168458511, at a case quantity of 6. Maybe the price will be right.

[rossb]

I recently discovered first hand the T8's need more power to start and to operate than the T12's

Don't listen to this guy :roll:

I meant to say the T8's need more power to start than the T12's but less power to operate.

In searching though I did find this interesting tidbit.
http://www.americanfluorescent.com/page12.html
Note the little chart down the page a bit..the aprox input watts. If you are using the lamp wattage to calculate your power bill you will be quite a bit off.

A missing piece in this discussion (power = current*voltage*PF) is the power factor. The power factor is the lag is the phase between currrent and voltage and is usually arround .9 and it applies to all ballasts.

Also of interest is this comparison of the lumens per watt of the various CF/fluorescent incandesent lights
http://www.americanfluorescent.com/page11.html

[ron101]

Here's some more questions for ya:

I'm looking to OD my 2-4ft NO's but my fixture has a remote ballast. I see that Fulham makes a Longhorse model for remove duty but they are not a regularly stocked item nor will the larger ballast fit in my current case.

So are any of you using a Workhorse remotely? If so what sort of run length?

Secondly, what would be good choice to OD the 2-4 footers? Workhorse 5, 6, or 7?

TIA

[Bob I]

[quote]Originally I believe the whole idea called for ELECTRONIC ballasts. Most of the ballasts I saw used here were at best Hybrids.
I have the Advance REL-4P32-SC that Burnabyreefer had said to use in his original thread on overdriving. I believe these are true electronic ballasts.

That sounds right. As I said those Hometown ballasts were not the right thing to use, and I am sure the light output was no better than hooking them up normally.

[Canadian Man]

[quote]Originally I believe the whole idea called for ELECTRONIC ballasts. Most of the ballasts I saw used here were at best Hybrids.
I have the Advance REL-4P32-SC that Burnabyreefer had said to use in his original thread on overdriving. I believe these are true electronic ballasts.

That sounds right. As I said those Hometown ballasts were not the right thing to use, and I am sure the light output was no better than hooking them up normally.

Sorry Bob, I think your incorrect. I hooked one up OD and had 4 at NO going beside it and you could see an obvious diffrence in the light output of the bulb

[Bob I]

[quote]Originally I believe the whole idea called for ELECTRONIC ballasts. Most of the ballasts I saw used here were at best Hybrids.
I have the Advance REL-4P32-SC that Burnabyreefer had said to use in his original thread on overdriving. I believe these are true electronic ballasts.

That sounds right. As I said those Hometown ballasts were not the right thing to use, and I am sure the light output was no better than hooking them up normally.

Sorry Bob, I think your incorrect. I hooked one up OD and had 4 at NO going beside it and you could see an obvious diffrence in the light output of the bulb

That of course is always possible. I have looked at very few OD setups, and never did a comparison. I do believe, however, that those ballasts are not in any way true Electronic ballasts. You do not need a transformer that weighs a ton in an Electronic ballast. I will remain suspicious, and untli somone proves me wrong about that I will stay suspicious. I just installed a Workhorse 5 in Alan's fixture. That for sure is electronic, and totally different.