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Der_Iron_Chef
08-10-2007, 11:31 PM
I asked this question in the DIY thread on RC:

Is there ANY way to cut apart 2 36" 33G tanks and use the four "36 sides to make a cube (and have a 3' x 3' bottom piece cut)? If it's braced, would the glass used to make regular 33G tanks be thick enough?

I got one answer so far:

The stength of the glass is a function of its area. If the pieces are already from a 36" tank, then they are suitable for a 36", be it cubic or rectangular.

If this is your first DIY tank, I would do some research on construction techniques and tips.

What do people think? Agree? Disagree?

Chin_Lee
08-11-2007, 03:35 AM
i agree it will work. the thickness of the glass used is USUALLY more dependent on the water height.

Delphinus
08-11-2007, 05:08 AM
Seems like a lot of work though to take apart two $30ish-value tanks though just to save on the glass? If you had to buy a 36x36 panel for the bottom anyhow, how much more would it cost to have new 36x12 (or whatever your desired height is) panels cut? Then you'd have scratch-less clean panels to start off with.

I dunno?

Der_Iron_Chef
08-11-2007, 06:50 AM
Well, that's the thing, Tony. I have no idea where to get glass cut (I posted a thread a few days ago, but no one has replied), and I have two brand new, flawless 33G tanks which I won't be using as 33G tanks!

I guess I'd still have to figure out a place to get the glass cut, for the bottom pane. But hey, a penny saved...:)

sphelps
08-11-2007, 04:05 PM
any glass shop will cut some glass for you, last time I was in Calgary I used Speedy Glass. It should only cost around $60 for the glass you need, might be better just to sell the 33 gallons you have. Disassembling a tank is actually harder than you might think, you'll probably end up chipping the glass somewhere. Plus cleaning off the old silicone can be a pain.

I would personally also use a small Euro Brace, if you run a 2" wide strip in 6mm around the tank you'll eliminate the bow which I'm sure you will get without the brace. Either that or use thicker glass, 10mm.

Delphinus
08-12-2007, 05:49 AM
I missed that thread Drew, sorry, I was camping the last couple weeks.

Place I use for glass is called Glass Guild. They're up in the N.E. by the .. um .. I think it's the Port-O-Call hotel. Number escapes me offhand but you can call 411 or check yellowpages.ca or something. I find they're reasonable for prices, and, they have everything under the sun - clear float, smoked, tinted, Starphire/low-iron, etc. etc.

Agreed with sphelps - I'd put a Eurobrace on the tank. :)

Hope this helps!

Zylumn
08-13-2007, 04:03 AM
drew You are going from glass rated for 33 g to putting it on 100 g, I have not seen an eighty + g tank that had less than 1/2 " glass and you want to try close to 100g with 1/4". Dont add salt when testing(save you a little $) and test it on your porch (you can tell the neighbors below you were just putting out a fire) LOL. Now on the other hand if you still itching to try I have a bottom, front and a side of a 33g you can have.

Kevin

Der_Iron_Chef
08-13-2007, 04:40 AM
Kevin:

Hey--I know what you're saying. Those were my exact concerns! But I was also told by a tank builder that, as long as you keep the tank 18" and shorter, 1/4" glass will suffice (garf.org also agrees).

Does this make sense to anyone else?

Johnny Reefer
08-13-2007, 05:21 AM
Are there any 36" cubes at any of your LFS's right now? If so, take a tape measure and see what they are made of.

sphelps
08-13-2007, 01:32 PM
If you keep the tank below 20" tall and do not increase the the length (36") your tank will be fine provided you brace it.

Actual volume has nothing to do with glass thickness, only height increases pressure (m*g*h), however the hydrostatic force created by this pressure will create a bending moment (deflection) and the longer the tank the larger the bending moment, but 36" is fine for 6mm.

No point going overkill on glass thickness, you just loose clarity and add weight.

KrazyKuch
08-14-2007, 01:12 AM
If you keep the tank below 20" tall and do not increase the the length (36") your tank will be fine provided you brace it.

Actual volume has nothing to do with glass thickness, only height increases pressure (m*g*h), however the hydrostatic force created by this pressure will create a bending moment (deflection) and the longer the tank the larger the bending moment, but 36" is fine for 6mm.

No point going overkill on glass thickness, you just loose clarity and add weight.

couldn't have said it better myself

Der_Iron_Chef
08-14-2007, 04:13 AM
Cool. Thanks guys. I've separated the two tanks (not a positive experience!), and now I have the fun job of stripping all the old silicone off of it. Let's see if I can actually make this work!

fortheloveofcrabs
08-14-2007, 04:25 AM
Seems scary to me... you are doubling the water volume, and upping the pressure behind the glass - trying to push it out. I wouldn't. Just my 2 cents.

Der_Iron_Chef
08-14-2007, 04:40 AM
This guy's thread (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1183020) on RC shows that he had a 48" x 72" tank made with 1/2" glass. I'm not sure of the height...I think 20-22". I would think a 36" x 36" tank at a height of 18" would be ok with 1/4" glass.

Everywhere I've read said as long as you don't go above 18", 1/4" glass is ok. But people are makin' me nervous :)

Zylumn
08-14-2007, 05:05 AM
Drew
Nice size tank. I am tagging along. Hope this works as I've will try 2 x 20g 24x24x16. Which makes me wonder isn't a 33 gal 36x12.5x16?? which would make your tank 90g. Sweet setup easy to light. Edit it is 36x12x18"
Kevin

Der_Iron_Chef
08-14-2007, 05:26 AM
I will re-measure the height! I thought it was 18", but that was a quick measurement when the tank was still together, etc. I sure hope this works! Was thinking of a 1/2" bottom pane.

LeeR
08-14-2007, 05:49 AM
If you haven't already stripped the silicone take some razor blades and get as much of it off as you can, then get some of the original mister clean magic erasers and some water and it takes that grease left over stuff off really well.

Der_Iron_Chef
08-14-2007, 12:39 PM
If you haven't already stripped the silicone take some razor blades and get as much of it off as you can, then get some of the original mister clean magic erasers and some water and it takes that grease left over stuff off really well.

Great tip! Thanks!

Zylumn
08-28-2007, 12:26 PM
Hey Drew how are things progressing. Looking for a bottom piece and do you have the sides cleaned off yet?
Kevin

sphelps
08-28-2007, 03:49 PM
Seems scary to me... you are doubling the water volume, and upping the pressure behind the glass - trying to push it out. I wouldn't. Just my 2 cents.


As stated before volume has nothing to do with pressure, only hieght (pressure = density * hieght * gravity). The only force that pushing outwards on the glass is a hydrostatic force cause by the pressure.

Der_Iron_Chef
08-28-2007, 06:23 PM
Hey Drew how are things progressing. Looking for a bottom piece and do you have the sides cleaned off yet?
Kevin

Hey Kevin...slowly but surely! I must admit, I haven't had as much time lately to devote, but I've also been lazy! I found a product at Wal-Mart called Silicone-be-Gone (or something like that), and it seems to really help to get the silicone residue off, with the help of a little more elbow grease of course.

Have you started your project? Would you still be able to help me drill some holes? That's where I'm stuck ultimately!

As stated before volume has nothing to do with pressure, only hieght (pressure = density * hieght * gravity). The only force that pushing outwards on the glass is a hydrostatic force cause by the pressure.

Excellent, thanks! I am very nervous to have 100G blow out all over the floor of my fourth-floor condominium. I imagine three floors of angry people below. I've heard from many people that height is the determining factor, but there's always that nagging doubt.

Zylumn
08-28-2007, 10:45 PM
Drew no problem on drilling the holes. I have a 1.5" d-bit hole saw and I am about 13 of 15 for the good. 20 gallons I found to be the trickiest but the thicker the glass the easier. Drilling a 33 is no problem.

My own project will be starting as soon as I come up with 4 20 gallon tanks. I already have 2 pieces of 1/4" 24x24 for the bottom. So I am going for 24x24x16h 40 gallons and will make an extra one possibly for sale. I haven't determine how I will drill it out whether in the middle or on one back side, I was going to see what you did and how it worked out. You jump first Drew!!! LOL
Kevin

Der_Iron_Chef
11-23-2007, 07:09 PM
Update: I've inquired at several glass places, and for a 3' x 3' piece of 1/2" glass (for the bottom), it will cost about $250! Not really in my ballpark right now. On to some possible solutions.

What about using 3/4" plywood for the bottom of the tank? I've read many articles/threads regarding DIY plywood tanks, but I've never seen anyone just use plywood for the bottom piece. As I understand it, silicone will bond glass to enamel, but not bare wood. Obviously, it would never be just raw wood. But if I were to prepare the piece with the appropriate 2-part epoxy, etc., would anyone see any problems with doing this? Why or why not?

IceTurf
11-23-2007, 08:33 PM
actually, no, i do not see a problem with this. GL with your idea, just be careful with some epoxies, as they may degrade easily when you have aquarium life sitting on top of them, and mix into the water.

Fibre glass may be an option as you can get an incredibly strong peice of wood with a good coating. *experience*

Zylumn
11-23-2007, 10:03 PM
Drew.
Why not do a wood/glass combination. See if you can buy just the glass for a 33 here http://go.to/interamerican and use 3/4" wood and the 2 side pieces glued to the wood 18" + 18" = your 36" hence a bottom for your sides. Now your using strictly silicone for adherence. Not sure if it would work but now your looking at around 50$.
Kevin