standpipe advise

[fishmaster]

Ok, I'm in the process of building my 120g. I will be running a PS4 return pump at about 5' of head. I plan on using a variation of the stockman standpipe-the gurgle buster. My question is...for that amount of flow, should I be running two 1" standpipes, one 1.5" or two 1.5"? The main object here is SILENCE!!! Any other suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Shaun.

[wickedfrags]

Will you be incorporating an external overflow? A nice glass top or cap over the external overflow really quiets things down. 2" drains also pretty much guarantee you will never have a wet floor (well at least from the overflow).

[fishmaster]

How would I go about cutting the glass for an external overflow? Can I use a diamond bit in a dremal?

[wickedfrags]

Ok you are doing it yourself. I would get some glass pre-cut (or score it and snap it yourself) and then go from there.

Take a look around at a few different designs. I can post a few pics later if you like. It really makes the inside of the tank more natural having one, and removes the clutter freeing up more real estate for coral.

What type of corals are you planning on keeping? Will you be incorporating a closed-loop system?

[fishmaster]

It will be diy. I already have the tank so I'd have to alter it myself. I assume I would have to grind an overflow into the back panel? I have an acrylic tank done this way but not sure if it's possible with glass.

[Reefer Rob]

With a PS4 I would run 1- 1" and 1- 1 1/2" in your overflow. The 1 1/2" will be your emergency drain with a standpipe about an 1 1/2" from the top of your overflow. The 1" should come half way up your overflow, and have a ball valve on the outlet to regulate the flow. Adjust the flow on the 1" so water just trickles into the 1 1/2" standpipe. This system is totally silent with no bubbles.

[fishmaster]

Rob, what style of stand pipe are you using again?

[Reefer Rob]

I use a Durso for the long standpipe (you can still get a bit of gurgling from it) and just a straight pipe for the short one. I have a 3/4" and a 1" in each overflow, because that's what the tanks drilled for, but I'd be much happier with 1" and 1 1/2".

[Reefer Rob]

Here's a link to a tank with a great overflow.

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=25427&page=4

[kadaytar]

What are the other benefits of using standpipe else than being quite? There are some other ways to stop the noise but whatever i noticed with standpipe since it sucks the water from the top part of the overflow box particules subside and accumulate at the bottom and it is realy hard to clean that crap.

[wickedfrags]

Yup that is the right type of overflow. I would recommend using 3/8" acrylic for the overflow teeth though, more durable and looks better (IMO).

I am also a huge fan of 2" drains, two 2" drains for my display. No way in the world a snail, fish or other reef occupant will clog a 2" drain, let alone 2 of them.

Here's a link to a tank with a great overflow.

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=25427&page=4

[fishmaster]

So, anyone have experience cutting that style of overflow into the glass panel? It defenatley looks like it was cut by some sort of diamond tool.

[trilinearmipmap]

Rob is describing Herbie's silent overflow system. There is a great thread on this at Reef Central that started a couple of years ago.

Definitely go for Herbie's overflow system if you really want silence.

I would use a gate valve rather than a ball valve, much easier to control, I started with a ball valve then changed over to a gate valve and it made a big difference.

With this system you just need straight perforated pipe for both the primary (gated ) standpipe and for the emergency overflow pipe.

[fishmaster]

Rob is describing Herbie's silent overflow system. There is a great thread on this at Reef Central that started a couple of years ago.

Definitely go for Herbie's overflow system if you really want silence.

I would use a gate valve rather than a ball valve, much easier to control, I started with a ball valve then changed over to a gate valve and it made a big difference.

With this system you just need straight perforated pipe for both the primary (gated ) standpipe and for the emergency overflow pipe.

Would it be possible to post a link? I can't search as I'm not a member-I don't need anymore website addictions!!!! Canreef eats up enough time as it is!!!
Thanks.

[Reefer Rob]

Mine is a Pre-Herbie design :mrgreen: How can you use perforated pipe on the standpipes? Won't the level stay too low?

[mark]

I'm using 2-2" Durso's flowing ~1000gph. No gurgling but more a trickling sound you would get from a small table fountain. Not silent but sort of nice actually.

[trilinearmipmap]

I made my own perforations in the standpipes by drilling into them.

The first (working) standpipe had perforations from about 1/2 way up, all the way up to the top.

The second (emergency backup) standpipe has perforations only at the top two inches.

You use the gate valve to adjust the water level in the overflow so it is about 3/4 of the way up the working standpipe ie. about 1/2 way up the perforations on the working standpipe. Too low, and you get a loud gurgle noise. Too high, and it will overflow into the emergency backup standpipe. That is why a gate valve is needed, to get it adjusted just right.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=344892