240 Planning Stages

[Parker]

Hello,

My wife and I are starting our home renovation soon and I have finally talked her into a large tank for our rec room, costs etc to be tied in with the renovation. The catch however, seeing as she knows me well, she would like a cost breakdown for all the materials involved. I've started my list below and I am looking for some insight as to what I may have missed, what you would add or remove, what equipment you might swap out.


Tank - 96x24x24 - 240 gal
Sump - 48x18x24
PFO Mini HQI Pendent - 250W x4
Aqua C EV-400 Protein Skimmer Package - Mak-4 Pump
Sequence ReeFlo External Water Pump - Dart (3600GPH) - Closed Loop
Sequence ReeFlo External Water Pump - Dart (3600GPH) - Return Pump
Jager 200 Watt Aquarium Heater (Eheim) x3
Instant Ocean Sea Salt - 160 Gallon Mix x3
Two Little Fishies Phosban Reactor 150 Pro Package - Plus Media
Neptune Systems AquaController Junior Package (DC8)
Exhaust Fan - Humidity Control
Kent Marine Maxxima Hi-S RO/DI (Reverse Osmosis/Deionization) Filter - 60 GPD
Precision Marine Reverse Flow 422 Calcium Reactor Package - Plus Media
Precision Marine Kalkreactor KR620 - Plus Media
Misc. Plumbing
Electrical

( List updated as per suggestions )


The tank will be placed in the center of a 25' wall with the cabinet running the entire length of the 25' with the exception of a false panel at one end for taller items, the space will be 24"x24"x8' high. There will be no access to the back of the tank so all plumbing will have to be done through the bottom of the tank. My wife would like a true show tank, nothing jury-rigged or hokey looking. So any equipment advice or general advise you could provide to make this a reality would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks all

[argileh]

You can probably do without the UV sterlizer, IMO

[Parker]

I have heard mixed reviews on them, I thought I would give it a shot. If nothing else it could find a home on my FW.

[wickedfrags]

Just off the top of my head, I would recommend considering the following:

1. Make sure you get starphire glass. Worth the extra money, and is a
small drop in the bucket comparted to all the other stuff you will be
getting. Also consider an external overflow.
2. You will need one more metal halide on that 8' tank, consider lumanarc
reflectors, they are worth every penny.
3. Make sure you budget for the plumbing for all the pumps, including
union valves. This will be expensive so be forewarned!
4. I am guessing you will need a calcium reactor....and the accessories.
5. Forget about the magdrive. Get a good quality external pump.
6. Budget for a HRV if possible to properly manager your humidity.
7. Plan on using some water motion devices. Very important.
8. Lose the UV.

Have fun and try and plan it out as best as possible before you start. It WILL be interesting to see what you have budgeted compated to the acual cost. Smart wife!

[ClubReef]

Is this a FOWLR or Reef tank? 3 pendents may not be enough for a 96" tank. I would purchase one more pendent (1 per 24"). If you decide to stock your tank with more light demanding species (sps/clams etc) you may want to look into the Lumenmax or Lumenarc reflectors if budget permit.

[Parker]

Just off the top of my head, I would recommend considering the following:

1. Make sure you get starphire glass. Worth the extra money, and is a
small drop in the bucket comparted to all the other stuff you will be
getting. Also consider an external overflow.
2. You will need one more metal halide on that 8' tank, consider lumanarc
reflectors, they are worth every penny.
3. Make sure you budget for the plumbing for all the pumps, including
union valves. This will be expensive so be forewarned!
4. I am guessing you will need a calcium reactor....and the accessories.
5. Forget about the magdrive. Get a good quality external pump.
6. Budget for a HRV if possible to properly manager your humidity.
7. Plan on using some water motion devices. Very important.
8. Lose the UV.

Have fun and try and plan it out as best as possible before you start. It WILL be interesting to see what you have budgeted compated to the acual cost. Smart wife!


1. I'll check into the glass
An external overflow won't be possible in this case. There is no access to the rear of the tank and it will need to be flush with the wall. I was going to have one diagonally in each rear corner.

2. I based 3 halides off of looking at other peoples tanks, I saw about a 50/50 split between 3 and four bulbs

3. I put some serious thought into the plumbing costs so I don't expect too much of a surprise there. I figure around 750.00 - 1000.00 for plumbing all said and done

4. Ahh the Calcium Reactor - that I did forget about.

5. Another Dart? - That would put me at 15x turnover through the sump minus head lose

7. I'm trying to avoid any equipment in the tank - Possibly up my closed loop GPH?

8. Two votes for losing the UV - Will do


It will be a reef tank.

[Midknight]

1. I'll check into the glass
An external overflow won't be possible in this case. There is no access to the rear of the tank and it will need to be flush with the wall. I was going to have one diagonally in each rear corner.

What is the space on the sides going to be like? Maybe do a coast to coast on one end and do the external overflow that way.

[michika]

- I would add a kalk. reactor in as well.
- I would recommend 4 MH bulbs over the 3 with the priviously suggested reflectors. Will you be supplimenting your lighting?
- You could try adding on educators to boost your flow if you want to use a closed loop system.
- I agree with the HRV, or a dehumidifyer (which is loud BTW).

[Der_Iron_Chef]

Do you already have an RO/DI unit?
Also, you might consider getting another phosban reactor and actively running carbon in it. I think it's the best way...but that's just my opinion!

[Parker]

- I would add a kalk. reactor in as well.
- I would recommend 4 MH bulbs over the 3 with the priviously suggested reflectors. Will you be supplimenting your lighting?
- You could try adding on educators to boost your flow if you want to use a closed loop system.
- I agree with the HRV, or a dehumidifyer (which is loud BTW).

Forgive my ignorance here, but wouldn't a Kalk reactor be redudndant when running a Calc reactor. My understanding is that Kalk maintains Calc levels once you have reached your target point. Would a Calc reactor not do the same on it's own?

[Parker]

Do you already have an RO/DI unit?
Also, you might consider getting another phosban reactor and actively running carbon in it. I think it's the best way...but that's just my opinion!

Two Little Fishies Phosban Reactor 150 Pro Package

This package comes with two reactors and the Maxi-jet 400 plus plumbing for it. Quite handy to order it all as a package.

[michika]

A Calcium reactor maintains alkalinity, and a Kalk. reactor maintains calcium. Running both allows you to maintain steady dKH, and Ca levels, which helps a lot in maintaining color, growth, and strength in SPS, LPS, and clams.

[Parker]

A Calcium reactor maintains alkalinity, and a Kalk. reactor maintains calcium. Running both allows you to maintain steady dKH, and Ca levels, which helps a lot in maintaining color, growth, and strength in SPS, LPS, and clams.

Thanks for the info, I must have read a improper descritption or just plain misunderstood it. More likly me misundertanding :)

[Skimmerking]

A Calcium reactor maintains alkalinity, and a Kalk. reactor maintains calcium. Running both allows you to maintain steady dKH, and Ca levels, which helps a lot in maintaining color, growth, and strength in SPS, LPS, and clams.

With that being said a calcuim Reactor will also maintain proper levels of Magnesuim in the 1350 range too. but will lower your Ph and that is why they use a Kalk reactor,..

[Joe Reefer]

If you are planning a renovation and not just the tank to go in the room, I would consider finding a better place to have the tank.... so maybe you could build a closet or room behind the tank, or maybe a sump in the basement. Access from the rear will make maintenance much easier and you won't have to worry about having another place to mix water and keep all the misc. aquarium junk that your going to need from time to time.

[mark]

Flow from a Dart for a the return might be a lot your sump.

If going CL, as mentioned, consider something for water motion (eg. OM 4-way and there's one FS here). As for CL themselves, I'm running one with a Dart and happy with it, but might want to read through this thread (http://216.187.96.54/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=26765)by Niloc16. Has a nice well thought out tank but noise ended up being an issue with the CL. My tank is in my family room and though don't even think of pump noise during the day (TV, kids etc) it is noticeable at night when everyones in bed and I want to read a book by the tank.

Salt, 1 bucket isn't going to last long.

Joe Reefer's comment is something to seriously consider. Having a fishroom behind or even a basement sump eases maintenance like you wouldn't believe.

Also, hope you've had a chance to visit people with large tanks. As much research I did when planning and running a 75g, to actually see peoples setups helps a lot.

[Parker]

If you are planning a renovation and not just the tank to go in the room, I would consider finding a better place to have the tank.... so maybe you could build a closet or room behind the tank, or maybe a sump in the basement. Access from the rear will make maintenance much easier and you won't have to worry about having another place to mix water and keep all the misc. aquarium junk that your going to need from time to time.

As much as I would like a separate room for all the equipment and maintenance it just isn't going to happen. The 8' tank will rest on a 23' foot stand, so I have 23' feet of storage under the tank and a 2'x2'x8' high dead space on the opposite end for larger items like the skimmer. This will be hidden by a false cabinet front that will be removable. There is water and a drain available in close proximity and it's on an outside wall in my basement rec room. So being in the basement rules out a lower level for a fish room.


While I haven't seen any large tanks in person I have been reading up for the better part of a year and I still have a lot to learn, hence the need for this post. I'm taking all suggestions seriously.

[Ruth]

If you are going to count on a closed loop for your in tank flow I definately recommend an ocean motions type of device - either 4 or 8 way and a large external pump such as a Hammerhead to drive it.
I also concur with looking at running 4 MH over your tank and using a luminarc type of reflector.
And of course, with a tank that large you are also going to have a substantial cash outlay for live rock and live stock.
Another consideration you may want to look at is a chiller. With all the $$$ laid out in your equipment and livestock it would be a shame to have a heat issue with your tank that causes you loose it all (like I did last summer:sad: ).
As you have indicated that the tank will not be accessible from the back you may want to also look at some type of device to raise and lower your lights for easier access to the tank.
A good person to pm is probably Superfudge as he is a master at this sort of thing.
Good luck and please post a thread outlining your progress.

[Parker]

I'm thinking / hoping I won't need a chiller. My tank will be in the basement which stays pretty cool through out the year. With my existing tanks my heaters run pretty hard to keep the temps up. With that said I'll have to wait and see when things are up and running, who knows how much heat 3 pumps and 4 MH's will generate.

I have approx 75 - 80 lbs of live rock now and will be using base rock the rest of the way.

I have a lot of time to make changes & substatutions, the tank will be the last thing completed. I can't imagine it going well if the tank was up before the kitchen was completed! :D

[niloc16]

i would go with 2 300w jager heater or 2 250w jager heaters. personally i would say do not go with the CL. i had one for a month and took it off because of noise. i ended up going with tunzes and wavyseas which is a 1000 times better flow IMO. for an 8 ft tank i would think of going with 4 MH. my tank is 7 ft and i run 3 lumen max 400W and having them spread out evenly i'm getting a little bit of shadows at the top, so with an extra foot the 4th MH would be good. what is the reason for the back not being accessible? is it just against a wall? if that is the reason i would strongly suggest leaving it away from the wall about 8" or so because there will always be something fall behind there and if there is NO room for you to reach in, well you get the point. sound like youre doing alot of planning though which is good