PCI CL-650 chiller issues

[christyf5]

So lately my chiller has been blowing fuses like they are going out of style. At first they would last about a week or so and then I'd come home on friday to find it had blown. I thought it might be due to the heat in the room with the warmer weather but in my old house the temperature in the basement routinely got to 35C (woodstove) and the chiller never had any problems. Then I thought it might be that it was too close to the wall so I moved it. I've also installed a fan to help with circulation at the back of the unit. Still no go. Now the chiller is fine for a few hours then dies at some point. The unit is a couple of years old. I attempted to take it apart, managed to get the cover unscrewed at the bottom(it comes off as one piece) but because of the way its put together you can't actually take it off (lame). Anyway, I shone a flashlight in there, theres hardly any dust or anything that would be causing issues with the fan and when the chiller does actually run I can hear the fan going.

Any suggestions???

[DanG]

are there any filters to clean that you missed?

[christyf5]

Theres just the one on the front, to my knowledge. I cleaned it (it had minor dust and cooties) and that didn't change a thing, the fuse still blew.

Currently I have the front panel off (the one that has the filter on it) and have a fan placed in front of the chiller blowing into it. So far so good.

[Tangman]

If you have had this unit running for a few years ,like you said, with few problems, until now and the filter on the front cover is clean , and yes it's the only one, and the unit is clean inside, as you said, then if the fan is still coming on, I would not be looking at the chiller as the problem. The problem is most probably flow. check the pump , hoses and even the chiller for calcium and algae build up (it is a reef tank), also how old is the pump ? just because it's not noisy doesn't mean it's still pumping the gallons per hour like when it was new. These Cl-650's run most efficiently at about 700 to 800 gph at the output, minus 100 gph for the chiller itself. also they work the best if the output is going back into the tank.
Also I got some better fuses from Pacific Coast Imports and I almost never blow a fuse and I am very under sized with a 650 with halides and over 300 gallons volume
Good luck with it.

[fishmaster]

First, check that you are using the correct fuse (amp rating recomended by the mfg). If you are using one too light, you'll continue to blow fuses because you chiller is drawing more amps that the fuse is designed to handle. If your fuses are correct, I would think you have an electical problem within the chiller. I would get it looked asap as the fuse is designed to blow to prevent more damage to the unit or a fire. Continually feeding fusues through it will only increse the chances of something bad happening.
Shaun.

[christyf5]

I checked the pump (Mag 12) and it seems to be ok, granted I don't have a flow meter to check the flow. I checked the hoses and they are clear. I did have a guard on the pump in case any fish/hermits went through but I no longer have hermit crabs and the fish would get caught in the sock anyways so I removed the guard which will increase the flow a bit. I'm not really sure how old the pump was, I bought it used a number of years ago with a DIY skimmer. I would say its probably at least 4 years old.

I checked everything for algae/calcium build up, emptied out the chiller and got nothing.

As for the fuses, they're the "same" ones that came with the chiller, granted they aren't from PCI. I haven't changed anything about the chiller and how it runs except its location.

I just don't understand how the chiller can run for a week and then whammo. Fuse blows. I think it knows the place that sells fuses is closed on weekends :razz:

Anyway, the chiller was still running when I left, we'll see if its still chugging along when I get home on friday.

[Tangman]

Did you just set this unit into operation ( with used equipment ) or has it been used on your tank for years ?

[christyf5]

No I've had this running on my tank since about mid- 2005 or so. I just moved it about 2 months ago (last weekend in march) from one house to the other. It was working fine up until May 11th (first warm day). I was told the chiller was brand new as the person selling it had just purchased it to set up a cold water system and then had to move back east so I don't think it had ever been used (was nice and shiny outside and in).

I've gotten reports back that its still running so apparently the fan in front of it must be getting the job done. I'll have another look at the pump when I get home this weekend as well.

[Delphinus]

Didn't reef_raf have this problem with his? Not having a chiller I never committed the solution to memory but maybe search on old threads or give him a PM or Brad are you reading this can you chime in?? I thought it had something to do with flowrate but .. I guess that's not all that helpful a detail.

[Johnny Reefer]

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=10074&highlight=Pacific+Coast+Chiller

[Tangman]

I would say replace the pump, if it is some ware between 4 to 5 years old, its probably not putting out like when it was new, I wouldn't think a Mag drive would last too much longer anyway....LOL

Oh by the way , you said you checked the pump, does that mean you took it apart and cleaned it and inspected it for ware ?

[fishmaster]

I would say replace the pump, if it is some ware between 4 to 5 years old, its probably not putting out like when it was new, I wouldn't think a Mag drive would last too much longer anyway....LOL

Oh by the way , you said you checked the pump, does that mean you took it apart and cleaned it and inspected it for ware ?

IMO, I can't see how the pump has anything to do with the fuse as it is wired seperately from the chiller. Maybe if the chiller is overworked due to lack of flow, but I would think the chiller would have to be running constantly to blow fuses. Is it running way more than usual? I think you have an electrical problem within your chiller.

[Tangman]

IMO, I can't see how the pump has anything to do with the fuse as it is wired seperately from the chiller.You have answered you own question in the next sentence! Maybe if the chiller is overworked due to lack of flow, but I would think the chiller would have to be running constantly to blow fuses.No,but if it is cycling on much longer than it is off it will blow fuses Is it running way more than usual? I think you have an electrical problem within your chiller.
If the chiller is running harder due to less flow ( IE: a worn out pump) it will cycle on longer , over heat and self protect by blowing fuses.
As Christyf5 said putting a fan in front of it has helped ( a temporary fix) The fan is helping the chiller to run cooler....or preventing the over heating situation...

[fishmaster]

If the chiller is running harder due to less flow ( IE: a worn out pump) it will cycle on longer , over heat and self protect by blowing fuses

Basically what I was getting at is that if the unit isn't running more that it normally does, it's likely a problem within the chiller. Christy didn't describe that it was running more than usuall, that's why I have the opinion that it's likely a problem with the chiller.

[spit.fire]

If the chiller is running harder due to less flow ( IE: a worn out pump) it will cycle on longer , over heat and self protect by blowing fuses.
As Christyf5 said putting a fan in front of it has helped ( a temporary fix) The fan is helping the chiller to run cooler....or preventing the over heating situation...
my chiller blows fuses the second it turns on, still havent had a chance to get it fixed, but would having a lower flow pump on the chiller and having the chiller in a smaller tank make it work alot less?

[Aquattro]

my chiller blows fuses the second it turns on, still havent had a chance to get it fixed, but would having a lower flow pump on the chiller and having the chiller in a smaller tank make it work alot less?

With the PCI chiller, it needs a minimum amount of flow or the fuses will blow. Temp draw down doesn't seem to make a difference, as long as good water flow and good external venting is present. If the fuse is blowing the split second it turns on, it sounds like an electrical issue (shorting out)

[Bryan]

It's quite likely the compressor is failing and cannot start properly without drawing excess current, thus the fuse blowing. What you can try is making sure the fuses are of the "slow blow" type vs the "fast blow" type. They can take additional inrush current for a split second without immediately blowing.