Difference between HQI, EYE, standard, and electric ballasts

[Josh23]

Just wondering what the difference is as far as
Bulb life
quality
brightness
energy efficiency

Thanks
Josh

[Aquattro]

Josh, there is no single answer for that. Depending on the bulb you're using and which ballast, the answer is different. The "standard" ballasts are just that..tar ballasts. EYE are Mercury Vapor ballasts to run Iwasaki bulbs. Some HQI are High Pressure Sodium, some are not. Different e-ballasts act differently on different bulbs.
The best question to ask is specific to the bulb/wattage you want to run. Then you can narow things down a bit!!

[Delphinus]

As Brad says there is no simple answer to your question. Here are some of my thoughts, though...

HQI = Halogen Quartz ... um ... I forget what the "I" stands for. Index maybe? HQI is used to refer to the double-ended halide bulbs (similar to a halogen bulb). Basically, it's just the arc tube and two contact points. Unlike mogul base bulbs which look like a really big incandescent bulb. Since double-ended bubs don't have the glass globe, they don't have the built-in UV/heat sheild. They need to be sheilded by a glass cover otherwise there is risk for UV burn and damage to your eyesight. These bulbs require a different ballast. I.e., a 250W DE requires a HQI ballast to fire properly. You cannot take a standard 250W ballast and use it to fire a double-ender. There is no such thing as 400W double-ended as far as I know. If you hear of a 400W HQI ballast, it's just a trade name.

EYE - I think this is a ballast to run Iwasaki bulbs. Iwasakis are mercury vapor bulbs, but can be fired off a standard halide ballast.

Electric They're all electric. Oh! you mean electronic. :P Expensive, but supposedly draw far less electricity for the same amount of light intensity (or more according to some claims) out of the bulbs. They tend to be more expensive, but, they are claimed to be easier on the bulbs so the bulbs may last longer. The ballasts are said to not produce the annoying electrical hum that the traditional capacitor-and-coil ('cap-n-coil') type ballasts produce. I have my cap-n-coil ballasts in a different room than my tanks, on account of the heat and the noise they produce.

Unfortunately to start comparing all the different options available all against each other is a bit of a loaded question. There are just so many different variables. A lot of differing opinions out there, all valid. It just depends on where you're coming from and what you're used to!

FWIW, I've seen spectacular colours of corals under the DE lights (Jamie's tank and Carpentersreef tank, are two examples of tanks that run using DE bulbs and the colours of corals in their tanks are amazing.) But, it is expensive. For example, Big Al's is selling an Aquaspacelight (2x150W HQI plus a few blue PC actinics) for the trifle retail price of $3000. You can go with PFO pendents, get the same light for a lot less coin than that, but, they are still more expensive than their mogul counterparts. There was a rage with HQI's about a year ago when MFA2002 came out because Sanjay's article comparing halide bulbs showed a 150W HQI putting out more lumens than a 400W. This was a cooked comparison though, because the 150W had a reflector and the 400W did not. It just goes to show that a good reflector can make a bulb seem more bright without even changing anything else.

I'm keen to try electronic ballasts some day, but I haven't yet gone that way on account of the purchase cost. But, one day I think I'll give it a go. If Kyoto gets in as it looks like it will, then we're not going to be liking our hydro bills very much, and we're going to be forced to look at any alternatives that keep that bill from skyrocketing if we want to stay active in the hobby..

[saltcreep]

Aqualine Buschke is coming out with a 400W HQI bulb and ballast very soon. Apparantly they have limited supply available at the moment but should be more readily available in about 1-2 months.

[Dez]

HQI actually stands for Mercury Quartz Iodide (Reef Aquarium, volume one, section on lighting)

I know it's strange, but I wonder how they got Mercury from "H"

[Aquattro]

HQI actually stands for Mercury Quartz Iodide (Reef Aquarium, volume one, section on lighting)

I know it's strange, but I wonder how they got Mercury from "H"

Dez, check a periodic table!!

[Josh23]

Thanks everyone for your input.

I was thinking along the lines of buying a 250 watt dual PFO ballast.
Not sure whether I would go HQI, EYE, or standard though.

Reason because the 250 watt dual ballast would allow me to ad a second bulb, reflector ect. later if needed. As I understand it a 250 watt ballast should allow me to keep just about anything including SPS and LPS, Softies as long as they are placed correctly in the tank. I wanted the ability to keep a variety of animals and prevent a upgarde later on.

[Josh23]

Another quick question is what type of Mh lighting are you currently running and what would you run if money didnt matter.

Do you think that the HQI is worth the extra $100 per ballast and or 50.00 per bulb.

Please let me know your thoughts.
Josh

[Aquattro]

Josh, again, we'll need to know which bulb. A 65k Iwasaki needs the EYE ballast, others can use the standard M58 and a DE needs the HQI.

As for what I'd run if money was no object, I'd probably go with a mixture of 10k and 20k 400W

[saltcreep]

What type of bulb also depends on your inhabitants as well as what sort of esthetics you are looking for.

[StirCrazy]

Just another tidbit, HQI is available in both Double ended and Mogual sockets. Most European MH bulbs (Like AB) are actualy HQI bulbs but sence HQI is a copyrighted term used to describe a type of MH bulb made by Sylvaina for the film industry (hapens to be daylight and higher colors for movie sets) in reality there are no HQI bulbs in the aquarium industry as I have never heard of anyone using a Sylvaina bulb yet.

ballasts, that are called "HQI" are realy just ballasts that aproxamate the voltages and currents used in europ to fire there bulbs. for example all HQI will run on a normal ballast with a starter, but they will run at a cooler color temp and lower intensity. this is because a NA ballast pushes a spicific current at 120V. European bulbs are designed to run at 100V and a little higher curent. If you look at a Ansi M80 ballast (the same as the PFO 250 watt HQI) you will see it is a higher curent than you would expect but a lower voltage. This is what the 250 watt european bulbs are designed to operate at.. in some cases they have added starters to make them work reliably with NA ballast but they still are not burning to spec.

what does this mean.. well in theory anyone using a AB, Ushio, BLV ect bulb on a NA ballast should have a shorter bulb life and premature color shift that if you were running it on the proper ballast.. also the output will be less. Now this is theory but it seams to be well acepted theory , Look at Sanjay's results on tests with pulse start and HQI ballasts laitly..

SO the next question you have is " well if this is true why isn't everyone buying M80 ballast for there 250 watt MH?" well simple I can go buy a standard NA ballast for a 250 watt MH for 68.00 + tax.. for a bare Ansi M80 ballast I am looking at 156.00 + tax (hense the reason I have not fired up the bulbs I bought yet :wink: I think I might be able to afford two ballast in the early new year).

Steve

[EmilyB]

Steve, do you have a url for these M80 ballasts ? I am suspecting next year I will change out my ballasts on the 155g.

[StirCrazy]

well no place online to buy from.. what you have to do is call every place in town ad see what the best price you can get is... so far the best I have found is 156.00 but I have two others telling me that they should be able to get them lower than that... we will see.. if any of you find a lower price let me know please!

the Advance Catalog Number for there M80 ballast is 71A5880. This is the same type of ballast used in the PFO HQI 250 watt Ballasts (confermed by PFO although they wouldent tell me which brand it was LOL)

Steve

[reefburnaby]

EmilyB and Stircrazy,

J&L Aquatics.
$149 for bare PFO HQI ballast.

- Victor.

[StirCrazy]

EmilyB and Stircrazy,

J&L Aquatics.
$149 for bare PFO HQI ballast.

- Victor.

+10 bucks for shipping.. not as cheep as local anymore.. :cry:

but .. onthe bright side I could get a shiney PFO case and plugs in a duel setup for only 340.00 :wink: which is what I am going to do if I can't get them cheep enuf to make it worth buying a case.

Steve

[EmilyB]

How does that compare/or what is the difference to the Hamilton ballast which I am running (175w). It certainly does a fine job with the Ushios...on that tank? :?

ELECTRONIC METAL HALIDE 250 WATT BALLAST

Cool operating, silent & energy saving. Potted, moisture resistant ballast which provides reduced lamp flicker and consistent lumen output. UL approved. Works with all 250 Watt lamps. Works with all 250 Watt HQI double-ended. 8 1/2"L x 3 1/2"W x 2 1/8"H

[EmilyB]

Is this of some concern (http://reefcentral.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=7f887e493dd2560586dc45c37d5c3897&threadid=126200)

[StirCrazy]

Is this of some concern (http://reefcentral.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=7f887e493dd2560586dc45c37d5c3897&threadid=126200)

No it isn't.. that is the PFO coplete systems.. the cord they were using to go TO the bulb was not rated for a high enuf temp .. because of the smaller closed in reflectors the double ended bulbs are using the temps were hoter than antisapated.. hence the wires melting..

Steve

[Josh23]

wow
this just becomes more and more confusing.
I was thinking of running 10,000 K as they seem to be used by most reefers, although in relatity I dont know whats better for what.

[StirCrazy]

wow
this just becomes more and more confusing.
I was thinking of running 10,000 K as they seem to be used by most reefers, although in relatity I dont know whats better for what.

Welcome to thewonderfull world of lighting Josh :wink: I ahev been reading for almost 2 years on differenttypes and the benifits of this over that and what I have found is alot of it is personal tast. you can run a Ushio on regular MH ballast and if you are happy with the look and growth fine.. if you have extra money youcan buy a more expensive ballast .. and if you are happy with the look and growth... fine :P

Take Brad for eg.. his 400 watt Ushio's started looking green to hime.. so he bought sun agor ballasts because they are suposidly better.. well they are a lot brighter now and he thinks they are more white (still waiting for the starts to stop I think) :shock:

as for VHO or PC.. it is personal choice.. VHO is almost as powerfull as PC.. (so cloes that it won't matter if you are using them for actinics) I like 10000K PC's with VHO actinics and MH to simulate the hot part of the afternoon. I have been getting wonderfull color and good growth (now that I actualy have a Ca level :roll: ) so I will stick with my set up because it works for me.

Basicly the only advice I can offer in a general sence, is to say that you need to find out your ultamate goal (as in what you want to keep down the road)... see what others that have simular ideas are doing and go from that.. at that point you will have spicific questions that will be much easyer to answer 8)


hope this didn't add to the confusion to much

Steve

[Aquattro]

Josh, a place to start is by deciding what type of critters you want. Figure out what type of reef you want and what animals you want in it. When you've got that info, pick a range of lighting options. Try and visit othr tanks with that type of lighting and decide which looks best to you. As Steve said, t all comes down to personal choice...you have to sit in your living room and look at it. Make sure YOU like the look of the light because in reality, the corals really couldn't care less.

[Josh23]

Hey thanks a lot guys and girls.
You helped me and confused me but thats ok because you also gave me a place to start.
Thanks
Josh