Killing the Canister Fitler Myth

[Fish]

Edit:
I should have made this more clear from the start. I am just suggesting that using a canister filter for mechanical filtration the way they are set up can lead to build ups of nitrates like we have been warned. I am suggesting throwing in LR and using it on our nanos as a biological filter instead.


Hello all,
If there is one thing that I can contribute to this hobby, it is putting an end to the phrase "canister filters are not for SW" or "they are nitrate factories".
Some nights I lie awake in bed thinking about all the nano tanks I've seen that would have been really nice if they didn't have a crummy little hang-on filter that has been stuffed with 3/4 of a lb of LR rubble, with a powerhead crammed beside it for extra flow.

The origin of the CF Myth
A canister filter will add nitrates to the water if:
1) You run it with all the crappy filter media and floss that's usually included.
AND
2) You don't clean the filter media properly.

But what if you filled the canister filter with LR rubble (and in my case, chaeto) like you do with your hang-on?
How is that any different? It is different - it's better:
1) the canister filter will hold many times more LR = better filtration capacity
2) will provide more flow, eliminating the need for extra powerheads
3) only the intake and outlets visible in the tank, making the display look much cleaner.

Please pass this on the next time you hear someone say 'canister filters aren't for saltwater'.

Without a canister filter, this tank would not have been possible:
http://www.truenorthreef.com/PicoMovie.wmv

Good luck out there,

- Chad


Edit: haha I spelled "filter" wrong in the title - sorry :razz:

[andsoitgoes]

I've often been confused with the myth of canister filters for that reason. They're only nitrate factories if you toss in bio balls, filter media, etc. I don't see a difference in that versus having a closed off HOB for LR and some macro, other than the fact that lighting a canister would be much more difficult.

However, they would in turn act like a fluidized bed filter, in that they would cause great amount of water to flow through a filter that won't turn your tank into a melting pot for baddies.

PERSONALLY, I wonder why I didn't think of using 2 canister filters for my overflow and return - Sure would have saved a hell of a lot of headache. Yes it's two more things that could possibly fail, but the setup and implementation is pretty logical and seems that it SHOULD work... maybe? :)

[Fish]

Amen.

I think with the using canister filters as an overflow and return though, you could never match two different pumps to the exact same rates. Even if one didn't fail, one would pass the other eventually. I've dreamed that dream too but... the gravity overflow route seems to be the only surefire way...
- Chad

[andsoitgoes]

Amen.

I think with the using canister filters as an overflow and return though, you could never match two different pumps to the exact same rates. Even if one didn't fail, one would pass the other eventually. I've dreamed that dream too but... the gravity overflow route seems to be the only surefire way...
- Chad

ah foo - good point. see, this is why I haven't won the pulitzer... so be it ;)

I'd still like to find a way to figure out a way to light the canister filter, what about instead of using a canister, to use a fluidized bed filter with rubble and then a small section of macro, then just placing a light alongside it, since they're usually clear...

The only concern would possibly be a piece of rock breaking and getting stuck, but if you created a little mini area with eggcrate so that the rubble could sit away from the in/out flow, and fill the input end with macro, then LR rubble, then pumping back into the display... Hee, exciting, I say!

[EmilyB]

When I ran a canister filter with live rock rubble, I found that the detritus and crap built up in the bottom of it very quickly. How would you deal with that besides tearing it apart ?

[Fish]

ah foo - good point. see, this is why I haven't won the pulitzer... so be it ;)

I'd still like to find a way to figure out a way to light the canister filter, what about instead of using a canister, to use a fluidized bed filter with rubble and then a small section of macro, then just placing a light alongside it, since they're usually clear...

The only concern would possibly be a piece of rock breaking and getting stuck, but if you created a little mini area with eggcrate so that the rubble could sit away from the in/out flow, and fill the input end with macro, then LR rubble, then pumping back into the display... Hee, exciting, I say!


Haha pulitzer :razz:

I don't know if you have seen my videos or my threads yet, but I lit the inside of my cannister filter with 5w halogen submersible pond lights (I drilled the top of the canister to route the power cord). My eheims came with media baskets (which are perforated like eggcrate). Cheto in the bottom compartment, LR rubble in the middle, and a 50watt heater in the top.

Cheers,

- Chad

[Fish]

When I ran a canister filter with live rock rubble, I found that the detritus and crap built up in the bottom of it very quickly. How would you deal with that besides tearing it apart ?

Hey,
For me that was pretty much the perfect situation. When it came time for a water change, I would pop the four latches on the top of the canister, dump all the water out into a bucket, pour the new water into the canister and close it up, then plug it in and go. I would rather have any detritus in one spot where I could remove it. Of course, that was on a nano (er, pico maybe) and I wasn't using a skimmer so that was the most efficient way of getting that detritus.

- Chad



Edit:

Hey this was my 1000th post!

[andsoitgoes]

haha - happy 1,001(to be exact :P)

I was presently downloading the video, tad slow, but now I shall see!!

wow... very pretty :)

Now - question... Obviously you retro'd a MH fixture, on top of that and the canister, what else did you have going? I see you drilled 2 in the bottom down through your desk for the canister, ja?

[spikehs]

well, I have gone the route of having my canister as my return pump. I have the XP2 powerfilter.

I am really liking this setup for a few reasons..
1. The filter is REALLY quiet. Almost silent

2. I have polyfilter, nitrate media, carbon, and phosphate media in there. So before any water gets returned to my tank its gets scrubbed really well

3. It eliminated 1-2 more pumps i needed. I was going to run an aquaclear with the polyfilter + nitrate media + carbon and have the fluidized reactor run some phosphate media. I now have it all in one.

Edit: Mine isn't on a nano (50gal tank).. but i think the same theory applies...

[Fish]

haha - happy 1,001(to be exact :P)

I was presently downloading the video, tad slow, but now I shall see!!

wow... very pretty :)

Now - question... Obviously you retro'd a MH fixture, on top of that and the canister, what else did you have going? I see you drilled 2 in the bottom down through your desk for the canister, ja?


Thanks!
The MH was a retro into a halogen drafting lamp fixture. I routed the cannister filter plumbing down through a computer cable slot that was already in the desk. The cannister filter was midified with submersible lights to grow chaeto and a 50w heater to maintain temp. I also had a tee fitting in one of the return lines which injected ro/di topoff water in real time from my chemical metering pump. The system was small but ran by itself no problem for two weeks when I took vacation. (I was too scared to push it further but now I wish I had - just to see the full potential of the system)

Cheers,

- Chad

[Fish]

well, I have gone the route of having my canister as my return pump. I have the XP2 powerfilter.

I am really liking this setup for a few reasons..
1. The filter is REALLY quiet. Almost silent

2. I have polyfilter, nitrate media, carbon, and phosphate media in there. So before any water gets returned to my tank its gets scrubbed really well

3. It eliminated 1-2 more pumps i needed. I was going to run an aquaclear with the polyfilter + nitrate media + carbon and have the fluidized reactor run some phosphate media. I now have it all in one.

Edit: Mine isn't on a nano (50gal tank).. but i think the same theory applies...

Hey Sean, it's been a while eh?

Glad to hear that things are working well. I never tried the XP2 myself but I have read really good things about them - and a good price too! Good choice.

- Chad

[mark]

Why even the light? Though recently put some macro in my sump went years without any, only just in the display.

[Fish]

I wanted to keep the macro in the sump because I wanted to light it 24/7 and avoid some of the lights on lights off ph swings. Plus, I was a little cramped for room in my display - the ball of chaeto that I had in my canister would have filled the entire tank :razz:

- Chad

Edit:
I should have made this more clear from the start. I am just suggesting that using a canister filter for mechanical filtration the way they are set up can lead to build ups of nitrates. I am suggesting throwing in LR and using it as a biological filter instead.

[daddy01]

Hi,
Nice thread info..I have a Fluval 304 canister filter currently on my small tank and have Chemi-pure and Carbon along with sponges.
I was looking at a DIY denitrator made from 1/4" tubing, but thought if I kept my fluval empty maybe it would do same idea.
Jim

[Midknight]

Hi,
Nice thread info..I have a Fluval 304 canister filter currently on my small tank and have Chemi-pure and Carbon along with sponges.
I was looking at a DIY denitrator made from 1/4" tubing, but thought if I kept my fluval empty maybe it would do same idea.
Jim

You would have to cut the flow way down to do that.
The DIY denitrator use a very slow rate of flow to operate properly if I am correct.

[Fish]

Ya, I think your right Midknight. The water needs to be in there long enough that the oxygen is depleted and the anaerobic bacteria process takes over.

- Chad

[Midknight]

Now I was thinking of "T"ing off of the return on mine to run it through a denitrator.

[Fish]

Now that would be cool - and I don't see why it wouldn't work.

- Chad

[dareefguy]

Sorry I know this is an old post but I am curently having a nitrate problem and a detrius problem. So I just bought a fluval 305 to hook up to my 350 gallon system so that I can remove the detrius more eaily and efficiantly. I think you just have to be dedicated on rinsing your sponges.

[Pan]

most run them without sponges actually in regards to a reef tank, that is when they are not being used for mechanical filtration. Such is/was the case with fish's tank.