Aqualight Pro Series 150 upgrade to 250

[Justusfish]

I purchased a used 3x150MH aqualight Pro series fixture and wasn't happy with that output and had a couple of PFO 250 metal halide fixtures that I wasn't using so ... I modded the Aqualight so it has a middle light of 150 and the left and right lights are 250. It throws great light and the heat increase doesn't seem to be a problem.

I did a test and ran all three metal halides for 12 hours straight with no ill effects to the unit.

The Coral Aqualight has an igniter within the hood that the Metal Halides along with one of the fans is attached. The PFO unit does not require the igniter so I ripped it out.

Because the fan is connected to the igniter, I then had to create a separate plug that I bypassed the ballast with so I didn't blow the fan. The mod turned out quite successfully. In fact, I'll probably eventually change out the middle light and up it to 250, but it saved me having to sell this 150 unit and finding a 250.

[Reefhawk1]

Do you have any pictures of the modification? I want to do the same thing with my 4' fixture. Is there any chance you could do a walk through procedure? Also what type of ballasts are the PFO's? What type of bulbs are you using?

Thanks

[Justusfish]

Unfortunately, I did not take any pictures but here is my first attempt to explain the mod.

I took apart the unit including taking out the florescent lights to access the wiring.

1. I used the PFO pendant lights that you can find on J&L's website. I had two of them and didn't bother going on line to buy DIY socket sets. I just stripped them from the pendant. It was VERY easy.

2. I had Icecap ballasts for my PFO pendants so used them in the mod as well.

3. The aqualight not only has external ballasts but a little doo-hickey that acts as an igniter for the lights. I removed those.

4. Three wires go into the igniter. Two wires for the lights and one for the fan. I took the two wires and spliced them into the hot and neutral lines coming from the ballast.

5. I took the fan wired and bypassed the ballast (in order not to blow up the fan) and spliced it into the neutral line coming from the plug that goes into the wall, but before the ballast.

6. I then used quick release plugs and drilled somewhat larger holes for the bigger cables.

7. If you buy DIY sockets and such from the net, I assume the modification will be similar.

8. I am NOT an electrician. I accept no liability if you or your modified light hood explodes.

9. Mine seems to be working fantastically and I am glad I made the modification from a 3X150 system to a 2X250 and 1X150 (center) system.

[Chin_Lee]

I just upgraded my middle 72" aqualight pro to 250W electronic ballast. During the modifications I noticed the following:

1) on the 72" fixture, there are two fans that are controlled only by the outside two lights. If the middle light turns on, the fan will not turn on. If either of the outside lights turn on, the respective closest fan will turn on.

2) each of the ballasts have three wired output. Red is hot from the ballast, black is hot from 120, and white is neutral.

3) the red and black goes into the ignitor for each light.

4) the fans are spliced in very close to the 5 bundle of cables. Fans are 120v AC so one wire is spliced into the black and one wire into the white for the two outside MH bulbs.

5) Replacing the middle light I don't have to deal with the fans.

if anybody is interested in a diagram to do their own mod, show your interest on this tread and judging from the interest will determine if I put time into an electrical diagram. otherwise, i won't bother.

[SeaHorse_Fanatic]

I'm just selling my 150w version to get a used 250w version:biggrin:

[robert]

I'm just selling my 150w version to get a used 250w version:biggrin:

No, you are not selling yours, those are sold already :biggrin:

[SeaHorse_Fanatic]

Haha. Your right.:wink:

[mseepman]

If you wished to add another fan to the fixture, could you just splice it's wires to the same locations as the original fan(s)?

I just upgraded my middle 72" aqualight pro to 250W electronic ballast. During the modifications I noticed the following:

1) on the 72" fixture, there are two fans that are controlled only by the outside two lights. If the middle light turns on, the fan will not turn on. If either of the outside lights turn on, the respective closest fan will turn on.

2) each of the ballasts have three wired output. Red is hot from the ballast, black is hot from 120, and white is neutral.

3) the red and black goes into the ignitor for each light.

4) the fans are spliced in very close to the 5 bundle of cables. Fans are 120v AC so one wire is spliced into the black and one wire into the white for the two outside MH bulbs.

5) Replacing the middle light I don't have to deal with the fans.

if anybody is interested in a diagram to do their own mod, show your interest on this tread and judging from the interest will determine if I put time into an electrical diagram. otherwise, i won't bother.

[Bandsaw]

Justusfish, I realize this is a old thread. I am upgrading my ballast on my 150W Aqualight right now. I went with the Galaxy selectable e ballast. I'm thinking now if I should upgrade the lamps as well (seeing that all I have to do now with the ballast is flip the switch from 150 to 250).

I know the end caps are larger with the 250W bulb, are the 250W bulbs and longer as well? Or can I just replace the 150W endcaps with 250W endcaps?

[Madreefer]

Another cool mod is to rip out the PCs and replace with T5s. I took mine out and replaced the stock 36" PCs with 4 48" 54W T5's worked really nice and more options with coloration. I just sold them to a buddy after replacing with LEDs