Ich and what carries it?!

[Justusfish]

I am buying a 210 gallon tank with no visible Ich on any of its occupants. My 50 gallon tank has 8 fish in it, three with Ich, (relatively mild) Two tangs and one Maroon clown affected. The damsels and pajama cardinals, a non-issue. No ich.

So my question is this: Can I put my live rock from the "iched" tank into the 210 or do they contain ich? Can I move my corals over? Then I could treat my fish after removing the rock and coral with chemicals and quarantine them for eight weeks before moving the fish into the tank?

Is any of this feasible?

Thanks

[marie]

It is possible and probable that ich will transfer over with the rock from your tank

[marie]

This is from an article Steven Pro wrote for reefkeeping magazine
The lifecycle of the parasite is interesting and important to understand when evaluating a treatment. The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish. After that, the trophont leaves the fish and becomes what is called a protomont. This protomont travels to the substrate and begins to crawl around for usually two to eight hours, but it could go for as long as eighteen hours after it leaves it's fish host. Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and is now called a tomont. Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage can last anywhere from three to twenty-eight days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host. After this period, the tomites hatch and begin swimming around, looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die. They prefer to seek out the skin and gill tissue, then transform into trophonts, and begin the process all over again (Colorni & Burgess, 1997).

[mark]

Though possible you would bring ich across, sounds like you will be having two tanks anyway which would allow you to break the life cycle.

Set up 210 with your rock and coral, all fish in in the 50 for your 6-8 week treatment and observation.

Big caution with a QT is make sure to monitor for NH3 frequently as since no rock or for biological filtering it can build quickly.

[Reefer Rob]

It would be easiest to treat your fish in your quarantine tank, and leave your old tank "fishless" for 5 weeks. Anything you bring over before 5 weeks could cause an infestation in your new tank.

[Justusfish]

Thanks for the help folks. Much appreciated.

[bubblepuffer]

is that possible Ich come by itself?? My Porcuppine Puffer only show up with Ich problem with he is stress up badly.. when he is happy after some Happy Meal, the ich will gone in 24-72hrs.. it happen couple of time already

[BlueNWhite]

is that possible Ich come by itself?? My Porcuppine Puffer only show up with Ich problem with he is stress up badly.. when he is happy after some Happy Meal, the ich will gone in 24-72hrs.. it happen couple of time already

Unfortunately, this only means that the parasites are already in your tank. Just because the puffer only shows signs of it sometimes, doesn't necessarily mean that the parasite isn't there anymore.

As long as your fish continue eating, most of them should be able to fight them off and return to full health. It's the ich magnet fish like certain tangs that you have to worry about because they tend to have a harder time fighting them off. That's why I will never try another Powder Blue Tang again. I don't want to risk the life of my Angels.

Good luck.

And Justusfish, if you do go through the trouble of quarantining all of those fish, you may as well go a little longer beyond 5 weeks to be safe.

[PoonTang]

Tangs that are kept in a smaller tank are going to be stressed and therefore going to get ich. Garlic may help.

[justinl]

garlic seems to work for some, but there is no solid proof of any garlic or garlic based med actually works. I read an article on it a while back. I think the best thing to do is QT all the fish until your display is ich free.

[Justusfish]

I am taking all the rock out of my 50 gallon and putting in a plastic tub, heating it and leaving all the fish in so I can quarantine for six weeks. I'm going to try hyposalinity method.

After six weeks, I can move them into my new 210 gallon ich-free tank.

But what about my corals? I only have about five: sun coral, xenia, rose anemone, branch daisy coral? What should I do with them?

[BCOrchidGuy]

My understanding is that Ich is present in almost every tank etc. Fish exhibit the spots when Ich starts to multiply usually when fish are weakened through stress. If your fish has Ich showing you can give it temporary relief with a fresh water dip, add some buffer to some fresh water that is obviously dechlorinated and at the same temp as the tank. Put the fish in and watch it for any signs of stress, with the fresh water dip it shouldn't take to long for the Ich to start to fall off. Transfer the fish to a QT tank that's set up and ready to go and keep it a bit warmer than normal, lower salinity over a week and feed well but keep the water clean. Once the fish is adapted to the lower salinity keep it there for a week or two and then very slowly increase the salinity back to normal. IF you see any sign of Ich coming back decrease salinity again.

Doug

[Justusfish]

So my question is what do I do with the coral from the 50 gallon? Can I put them into the 210 or am I bring ich with them?

[Reefer Rob]

Why not leave the corals in your 50 gal on an egg crate rack, and get a cheep 20 gal to treat your fish. You'll need it later anyway for future quarantines and treatments.

Fresh water dips are risky and are not known to have any effect on cryptocaryon, they are burrowed into the skin and the slime on the fish protects them.

This (http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/hypo salinity.html) is the method I always use for hyposalinity treatments. Be most carefully as you get down to the lower specific gravity. Almost all fish with respond to hypo salinity with increased vigour and a ravenous appetite. If the fish stop eating or show distress raise the salinity a bit. It is possible to kill fish with any treatment, that is why a lot of people just live with cryptocaryon.