PDA

View Full Version : Unsupervised Top Off System


Bryan
10-12-2002, 09:39 AM
My current top off system consist of a 5 gallon bucket sitting on my enclosed balconey with nylon tubing running to the tank sump to a kent float valve. Works fine, except during the summer I have to fill the bucket every 2-3 days and I have to rely on friends or relatives to monitor during any extended holidays. Plus it's an inconvenience to constantly fill the bucket.

I would like to automate the system and was thinking of the following.

My water filtration consists of strictly DI filtration. Any reaon why I can't connect a needle/saddle valve under the kitchen sink, run the nylon tubing through a wall and out to the enclosed balconey to my DI filter which will empty into the bucket.

Under the sink I will incorporate a solenoid valve after the saddle valve(all kinds of solenoid valves at mcmaster.com for as low as $20.00) connected to a timer. Have the timer run a set period during the day, it wouldn't matter if it overfills the bucket as it's on the balconey anyways (drain Hole in the floor). The nylon tubing would only be under low pressure, just enough flow through the saddle valve to cause the required amount of flow through the DI filter.

I guess if I really wanted to do it right and avoid the overflow problem I could add a low and high float switch to the bucket so the solenoid kicks on and off at preset levels.

Any suggestions or comments.

Aquattro
10-12-2002, 12:36 PM
Bryan, the problem is this...."IF" anything ever went wrong with your Kent float, you'd end up with a freshwater tank. It's happened before to people!

terryp01
10-12-2002, 02:18 PM
You can also face the other issue, I have one that sometimes will not kick on resulting in the the potential of the tank not filling and pumps burning out.

I have a pet sitter that comes by on my extended trips to check up on the tanks. It cost me US15.00 per visit but is much cheaper than replacing a 150.00 pump or everything in my tank.

You suggestion sound good but I would not soley rely on this, someone should still come by and check on this every couple of days.

StirCrazy
10-12-2002, 04:58 PM
I have the spectrapure top off system ( http://www.spectrapure.com/St_alc_p1.htm

I have not hooked it up only because I cannot get my ro water that close to the tank. I am still trying to figure out a way to hook it up but I don't want water tube hanging from the celing. I think as long as you have two safty devices and maintain your system properly that it will be fine. people mention "what if" well what if your tank cracks in the middle of the night? :roll:

anyways as long as you think it through, do it properly, inspect and maintain it regulary.. it should be fine.

Steve

Bryan
10-12-2002, 08:06 PM
Brad;

Actually no it wouldn't if I connected the solenoid valve up to a timer that ran for only a specific amount of time per day as opposed to some low/high sensors.

Bryan, the problem is this...."IF" anything ever went wrong with your Kent float, you'd end up with a freshwater tank. It's happened before to people!

Aquattro
10-12-2002, 08:11 PM
Well Bryan, when you get it working, a drawing would be great. Hauling 5g top off jugs is getting real old :D

TANGOMAN
10-25-2002, 02:59 PM
Solenoid valve did you say? Ooooh, an electronically actuated flow control device...that gets me excited !!!! I do however hate that unattended thing and well,what if...Maybe it's just me but the "what if" always happens to me. I don't think it's a lack of skill. I've worked many years as a mechanic in the construction equipment industry and hydraulics is something I'm very familiar with. So is floor dry and shop-vacs now that I think about it...This pastime has brought me to the realization it's not if it will happen but when...
I've done that 5 gal bucket thing for years and ya', it sucks ! I blew a disc in my back 6 months ago so I came up with the following set up to minimize the chore of haulin' pails around. I never incorporated anything electronic however I do like the idea ! The timer is an awesome idea !!!
I "T'd" in a 1/2" fitting to a cold water line in the basement,an arragement of bushings and adaptors gets me to a 1/4" ball valve. Into my Carbon cartridge filters and then to a "bank" of needle valves that direct water to different tank reservoirs and a garbage can in the basement for making saltwater. Each reservoir is equipped with a humidifier float valve, because, "what if" I forget to turn off the valve...The reservoir is gravity fed into the sump where another float valve controls water level in the sump. This would work with your DI set-up and installing the timer would minimize,not eliminate though, the risk of an unwanted "hypo-salinity" treatment for your tank. Anyway, I gotta' go to home Depot now as I'm all excited about timer devices...what are you using ? 110 V or does the unit have a transformer to reduce current ? Is there a risk of your reservoir freezing out on the balcony ?

Bryan
10-26-2002, 07:04 PM
I haven't built the top of device yet, but I will use a commonly available wall timer to turn on a solenoid valve that will allow water to flow through a needle valve.

I have decided to use a float switch on the top of the reservoir bucket. It will work this way. Tthe needle valve will be adjusted to allow the correct stream of water to pass through the DI cartridge. I will set the timer for approx hour each day. When the timer activates, the solenoid valve will kick in and allow DI water to fill the 5 gallon bucket. When the water level in the bucket rises above the float valve it will cut the power to the solenoid valve, but not the timer. This way I don't have to match the evaportion level to the timer length setting.

It really wouldn't matter if the bucket overflowed because it's on the balconey which has a drain. The balconey is enclosed so it never gets cold enough to freeze. I wll use a 12~24 volt solenoid and float switch to reduce the potential for electrical shock.



Anyway, I gotta' go to home Depot now as I'm all excited about timer devices...what are you using ? 110 V or does the unit have a transformer to reduce current ? Is there a risk of your reservoir freezing out on the balcony ?

Bryan
10-26-2002, 07:07 PM
Last week while carrying a bucket of make up water, it slipped out of my hands and crashed to the hardwood floors and literally exploded in the living room. Man what a mess, so yes I am tired of the hauling jugs around.

Well Bryan, when you get it working, a drawing would be great. Hauling 5g top off jugs is getting real old :D

rossb
11-06-2002, 04:08 PM
I have this pond outside that I wanted to top up with a rain barrel. I wanted the water level to be within 1/2 an inch and needed a relaible cheap way to do this. What I built will work well as an aquarium topper upper also. I am going to add it to my new set up. It uses a toilet float, a separate pail, a small electic pump and a water line connection between the pail and the aquarium (you don't have to drill the aquarium if you use a syphon tube to a small hang on exterior tank).

Basically you drill a hole in the bottom of the pail and mount the toilet float in it (the newer type of float). There are rubber washers included so it won't leak. To the water connections you connect an elevated water source (like a rain barrel). You put the pump in the bottom of the pail and set the pail beside your aquarium. You connect between the pail and the tank at about the high level of the tank and postion the pail so the high water level is at the maximum float height. You then use the pump to move water the pail to the aquarium.

How this works. Think of your toilet. When you flush it all the water drops out, the float drops and opens a valve so the tank fills again. Now imagine if the water level in the aquarium was connect to and the same as the tank level. If the water in your aquarium evaporated and some how could flush the tank when it was too low, the float woud open a value and fill both the tank and the aquarium. When it got to the high level it would shot off. The small pump effectively "flushes" the pail when the water level falls below the pipe connecting the pail and aquarium. The pump removes all the water from the pail and the float opens the valve and fills both the pail and the aquarium to the high water level. Aside from the pump there are no electrical connections and the toilet float mechanism is quite cheap.

This is a bit hard to visualize but i have adiagram is anyone is interested. One day I'll get me a website and post a few pictures. I have used it for two years outside and it has worked well. You just have to make sure that the float doesn't get a lot of crud on it and stops floating.[/img]